Classics

Ok so last night my dad and I put the carbs back on the bike and took it for a ride. It ran very well and as some of you know, I just put a new clutch in it and it was doing well also. I get back to my dad's house and he jumps on it and takes it for a ride. He gets back and says the clutch needs adjusted a little more. I loosen the nut, back off the screw and NO clutch! At this point I said, "no problem, we'll just take off the cover and see what's going on". You would think that wouldn't be a problem to do but NO! We loosened all the screw/bolts until we got to the one at the top left. At once it stripped out. To make a long story short, you wouldn't know that it ever ha…

I have a '73 250 DT that I am restoring and need help with the color specifications for the tank and fenders/chain guard. Are the graphic a decal application and would anyone know where to get those? I would like to repaint the exhaust pipe as well. What best hi temp paint for that? What about powder coating? Thanks a lot, Oregontreker

pulled the starter to rebuild it. long story short. a gear and a chain fell down in the case.. whats the odds of me being able to continue with out taking off the clutch side cover?

Hey Guys, I have recently got hold of a 1996 Yamaha TDR 125 and hence have joined this site. I have tried starting the bike, but have had no luck. I have checked the spark plug and there are no sparks. Also the +ve terminal on the battery gets really really hot after a few trys starting the bike. My guess would be something shorting out. However as this is my first bike I have no idea what to check. Hope you can help!! Thanks in advance

Greetings all..... I havent been on this website for quite some time. I was tinkering with the toughts of selling my 78 DT400, but I have changed my mind and I think I will keep her. Has anyone restored one of these? Mine is complete. It needs a tank repaint and new decal stickers. I am needing to find an original, maybe NOS, Front Fender in yellow. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions regarding these bikes? Thanx!

hi guys i have an original working, 1982/1983 A reg yamaha xt 125. what is this worth i cant find on for sale anywhere on the internet and am curious of what its worth or rarity. its in good condition kept covered and out of the rain. thanks for the help people.

When I use the idle screw to bring the revs up to 1200 at idle, it causes an issue. If I rev it up to say 4k, it will stick there or come down really slowly. I've tried all kinds of different variations, but it always will stick when I get the bike to idle at 1200. It is normal when the idle screw is out to let it idle at 1000. Does this mean I should start messing with the pilot and balance screw(s)? Thanks, Aaron

I had my bike out last night (82 XS400) for a ride and adjusted mixtures. Everything is running great, starts good, idles when cold at 1200. However, once it warms up the idle sticks at about 3000 but as soon as I cover the right side carb throat (no airbox) for a second it drops to 1200 and stays there. Sticky slide?

im changing the fork oil,so thought it a good idea to replace the springs while im at it.i cant find any,do you know were i can get some.for them that dont know its a 1982 rd350lc pre-brazilian.yea,woop-woop,an its mine.ta for any help.

So here's the issue I'm having with the bike. It will idle in neutral quite well, however if you stop while it's in gear it will tend to die. It starts up just fine after it dies, but pretty much dies every time you stop while in gear. The engine also rides quite rough at lower RPM's but is noticeably smoother at higher RPM's. Anyone have any thoughts? I did notice that when I took the air filters out that one looked fine, had all it's "funny fur," while the other had absolutely no funny fur, other than on the edges where it was glued to the metal filter housing. Should I even attempt to fix the problem before the new air filters that I ordered arrive, or is the…

Hey everyone, A few questions about the bike: 1. Is there a problem with switching to a synthetic oil? 2. Are most of the parts, sans engine specific, for the XS650 compatible with my bike? Asking specifically because of the site MikesXS. 3. What modification to modern parts has had the most impact on your classic XS? Thanks everyone, I'm new to this whole classic/DIY motorcycle business. Regards, Aaron

okay quick question. does anyone know how much modification would be needed to put an sr250 front end on a first year xs400? Im going to go ahead and assume that it won't just swap outright, but I like the look of the complete sr fork assembly better than the xs, so would like to figure out if a swap is even possible thanks! (oh ps been lurking for a bit and doing lots of research and snooping. will put some pics up of my brat/bobber/tracker/jobber/dealie project when I have some good ones)

not been on here a lot lately, but some of you might know that i have an XS400 1980 bitsa. Well yesterday i and a very knowledgable friend finally got the damm thing to run on both cylinders AND tick over . i serviced the carbs using brake cleaner and re-using parts that looked in good order not a good idea! as it ran like it was sucking porridge rather than petrol. so ater that we had the carb put in the sonic tank? while i got a complete carb overhaul kit and new jets. i read a thread on here about what size jets to use and the original ones were not the same. when that was all done and put back on the bike things were a bit better but still not right.…

There's a seller on eBay that sells filters for the TX500 & XS500 at about $45 for 3 filters. I got them and today decided to change oil and filter on my recently aquired 1974 TX500. THE FILTERS FROM THIS SELLER WON"T FIT!!! On casual observation these filters look like the one I removed from my bike (I don't know how old this filter was, but it was very dificult to remove and install due close clearance to the rear lower corner of left side crankcase cover...you need to position it "just right" to get it to go into the filter area). Closer inspectiuon, tho, showed these eBay filters had a more squared off top surface in relation to the side of the filter, compared to…

I used starter cables from my car to the bike today to try and start it. I used the starter for max 3 seconds each time, and after a while it started to sound like a stung pig. What has happened?

I'm noticing the front fork is pretty saggy. My manual calls for 10w30 oil so I used that, and now I don't like how it is handling. Anyone know if I just dump more of it in, will it stiffen things up?

I have a 1981 XS400 special. As you may know, the petcock is a vacuum-fed when in the on position and when in the prime position it dumps fuel into the carbs through gravity. My question is: when it is set to reserve, is it still vacuum-fed? or does it switch to gravity fed like prime position? Thank You.

Hello everyone I've had the bike for many years, but just now really started working on it and able to start it for the first time. I've tried two different carbs, the first one didn't even fit. I had the tank vatted and cleaned and installed a new fuel filter. The carb could be dirty or the petcock is the wrong direction since I don't understand which direction is which . The bike finally started and was running fine for several minutes (5+), then it revved up and hasn't been running right since. Now it's difficult to start, but when it does, it just revs up and dies (<10 seconds). Is this tale-tale signs of an air leak? I am mechanically & electric…

I've been slowly working on my '75 XS500 project. I ran into some electrical strangeness yesterday. I repaired a break in a wire yesterday which was preventing anything from getting power. Now, with the key in the middle position the following accessories work: headlamp, all signals, neutral light, producing spark, the horn and starter make only the slightest noise to tell they are receiving some power. No tail light, no brake light and no gauge back-lighting. When I click the key to the full right position, only the head light, tail light and gauge back-lighting works. Any theories?

I was trying to do a clutch adjustment this weekend for first time. wasnt really sure what to do... I took off the rubber clutch adjustment cap, and found a 12/13mm hex nut (or locknut, sorry about terminology haha). The Haynes+Clymer manuals said to loosen it, but I tried turning it counterclockwise to no avail. There is a screw I guess holding it in, that looks a tiny bit stripped... but anyway, should I unscrew that with a Phillips so when turning locknut counterclockwise it actually can move 'backward'/towards me (or i shouldnt be touching the screw itself, but only the locknut with a socket wrench)?