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No worries, I'm late 60s... Just picture it as a normal conversation that takes a really long time to get an answer to (and sometimes not at all and you have to give us a poke!). lol

Easy bud thanks for your response, I'm new to this and not exactly computer savvy being an early 60s child. The noise is coming from the front wheel and I've checked everything which is tight and working as it should. The noise is only when cornering whilst at speed over 20mph. Its sounding like a bearing now you mentioned it. I'll take the wheel off over the weekend and get it looked at next week, thanks again for your time and help buddy it's greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help and time bud, it's the morning after so I'll give it a watch when my heads straight, again thanks.... greatly appreciated...

interesting video here, especially about suspension and preload. might be worth a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzXE32thS1g

A warm welcome Hirsty, nice trike that.

Welcome in! I've split your two identical posts into separate ones...

Can you tell roughly where the noise is coming from? Particularly front or back? If it's back, I'd check the differential first then the drive shafts second. If it's front, I'd check the wheel bearings/spindle. As for the tank slapping, if the bike is still level (not raised or lowered at the back due to the conversion), all I can think of is check your front brake callipers, maybe one is playing up? I've split your two identical posts into separate ones...

I bought a Dragstar 1100 Trike which I've put a lot of time and money into but I get a massive tank slapper at low speed. Pulling away is fine if I'm getting up speed and slowing down is fine until I get below 15mph then I have to grip tight which stops the slapping. When cornering at any speed I get a kind of scraping, grinding sound. I'm mechanically minded engine and electrical wise but this has me beat. The seals on the forks are good, I've had the tyres off the rear end and checked, balanced up and re valved, they're new tyres. The front tyres not that old and in good shape. There's no play in the steering at all and everything is tight. Any ideas on what could be the cause please, as I said it's beaten me? Thanks........

Easy folks, I'm 'Hirsty' and new on here.. I'm an old skool biker pushing 60 and made the move from Bike to Trike because I'm rattling in the back nowadays.

Is there anyone out there in Gods Country (Yorkshire, West preferably)?

Looks like a fun weekend!

So last week I had my DT MOT'd for the first time since 2021, then took it to Carrog in North Wales camping, with some people I know from an Aprilia forum I'm on. Had a great ride over on the Friday, and our Saturday rideout only had rain for the last 5 mins. Very wet ride home on the sunday though! Few pics below!

If I remember correctly an axle bolt fits the rotor. do it up tight and shock it off with a hammer

In all honesty, and within limits, the length of the spring won't matter. What will matter is its strength... A couple of mm either way in length won't matter, but a thicker or thinner wire will (it's not the length, it's the girth!!!). It may even be the case that the slightly longer ones are 'upgraded' ones, or just 3rd party and not quite in spec. If you're really worried or suspicious, go to your local Authorised Yamaha Dealer and get them to order you a set for your specific bike. It may cost a few quid more, but you're guaranteed they'll get the right ones..! And just to answer your questions directly..: 1/ My Haynes manual suggest 36.4mm. The problem with Haynes is that the bikes they take apart for the manuals aren't new (one assumes that would cost a lot to disassemble a brand new bike), so measurements that small may be... Slightly off... 2/ My manual I downloaded suggests 34.9mm. WHAT manual? I trust nothing off the interwebz completely! 3/ The ones I got from Yambits are 34.7mm. Yambits are usually pretty good and I use them a lot, but I did get some petrol tap seals from them that were VERY much oversized (thickness) and were useless (so fat they locked up my tap). 4/ Ones for sale on Autodoc suggest 36mm. Never heard of Autodoc...

Did you get it off? Was it completely different to the above? or was my post helpful?

Interesting Digger, I don't know the correct length, but I do know it's probably best not to mix and match different springs. ..........Having said that, had I been doing the clutch back in the 70's/80's I wouldn't have cared about the length or even mix and matching them!!, as long as they weren't broken! and I would have ridden the bike regardless......and I suspect everything would have been fine. Today, I might be a bit more cautious like yourself and try and get the right lengths. although as long as they are all the same, will 1.7mm (the difference between the smallest and largest) make a big difference? I don't sound much help!!.....I'll shut up!

Picked up 2 DT175C’s. Bought new points just in case. After a serious decrudding one looks decent and seems to be running ok. The other may need points and a timing adjustment. I had a DT250 in the 70’s and I’m sure made these adjustments but now I need guidance and a simple way to get this done. I do have a timing light and a new set of points.

Hi guys it’s me again. i’m just trying to find out what the correct length of the clutch springs are for my 1978 dt250mx. my Haynes manual suggest 36.4mm. my manual I downloaded suggests 34.9mm. the ones I got from yambits are 34.7mm. ones for sale on autodoc suggest 36mm thanks in advance

That's handy, cheers

sorry for not being on here in a while. There is a face book group page called yamaha xsr125 uk join the group then search in the files folder there is an array of different pdf's to download including the elusive service manual lol. hope this helps.

Okay, here's how it works, how a single bolt can remove the rotor. Its different to the DT magneto which has a full length tapered shaft. The XS 250 has a part threaded section within the rotor body. N.B. the normal short bolt with its washer, holds it all in place.

So basically it seems you take out this retaining bolt and replace it with a longer bolt which pops off the Rotor.

I'm not giving up!!....been on Google... looked at the XS400 forum which states it's for the XS250 and XS400 bikes... various searches there suggest the puller is just a bolt The rotor puller Yamaha part number is 90890-01080. It's an M16x1.5 bolt. member Drewpy (is he the same?) says don't use a '3 jaw" puller as you'll f*** up the rotor. another member describes the procedure... Remove the retention bolt that you still have in the photo from the center of the rotor, screw the bigger bolt into the rotor while holding the rotor stationary (manual recommends a special wrench), and rotate the rotor puller/bolt into the rotor. It'll pop off. Cmsnl sell one..https://www.cmsnl.com/products/pullerrotor_9089001080/ hope thats of some help?

looks like we might be getting somewhere....this puller on ebay, specifies for a XS250, although maybe that's several tools in the kit? Hope that's of some help mate. and here's an XS250 Rotor on ebay, ? which suggests a deep internal thread?

In a different post the original poster has stated he can't use this method of puller as the rotor does not have an internal thread. So I did a bit of googling, and came up with this, now i know its not for the XS250 but i wonder if the principle is likely to be the same as this tool is for a Rotor without the internal thread....just a thought. Not quite sure how it works though as this screws onto the shaft but its not threaded on the outside either , unlike my DT one first suggested.

You Sir get the Platinum medal today lol Shoot.... thanks for the link. I normally get my gear from Wemoto ...... they are double that price https://www.wemoto.com/bike/yamaha/fj/1200/1992/28776/ignition-coil