Yamaha Workshop

Dear all, My poor old XJ900 has been standing for eight years and it's time to use it again. I've cleaned out all of the carbs, jets, float bowls and all moving parts seem to be OK. Fuel is getting to the float bowls but she just won't start. Coughs a few times on full choke but that's it. She will run a bit on a sniff of fuel directly into the carbs so I know that the mechanical bits work. I don't think that any fuel is getting to the cylinders so I must have missed something blocked? Any ideas?

Guys, Just changed the rear pads. Plastic cap off, split pins out, pins out, old pads out, push pistons in, new pads in ..... jobs a goodun. What are those thin shims for you have to put on the outside of the pads? Also anybody know a good howto to get the damn pistons back in the calipers? Got there but the must be an easier & quicker way then mine :-)

Hi I've put a new battery on my bike,which is fully charged and it gives the symptom of a flat battery.I can hear the starter celeniod clicking as I turn it over.Is it the celenoid or maybe the starter motor?

Could a Kind gentlemen....or lady of course! PM me a workshop manual or link for an XVS 125. It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Steve

hello everyone , I have nearly finished the complete build of the mk 1 I started nearly three years ago now , it was not a restoration but a complete build after buying a frame not knowing what it was exactly then starting from there with no knowledge of motorcycles and not ever rode one , im getting my licence to ride this though , just wondering if anyone can shed light on a issue I have wiuth the carb I have a mikuni carb but that's all that's written on it no numbers no nothing , the problem I have is that im not quite sure what goes where , there are that many pipes and hoses coming off the damn thing , if anyone could point me in the right direction I would be great…

Would like to get some more advice here. Piston melted a hole and some bits went in the crankcase. Was advised I should be able to get away without splitting the engine..just put in engine cleaner turning the crank then turn engine upside down. Repeat process until rotation is smooth. Then use a hair dryer to dry out crankcase. Also the cylinder already bored out 2mm oversize. Luckily it still looks fairly ok so been advised to go over it with some water paper. Apparantly even a light hone could ruin it.

Hi, new to the forum so hope someone can help. Just rebuilt an '88 TZR125 (2RK).Engine work included rebore and crankseals which i did while the engine was out but without splitting the crankcases.When i was filling the transmission with oil the sightglass showed it full with only about 400cc of oil.As i was expecting to put 750-800cc in it i'd actually filled it above the sightglass before noticing.I drained out the excess until it was at the right level which meant it only had about 400cc in it! There is no loss of coolant and only clean transmission oil came out.Removed right hand (clutch) cover and clutch to investigate.Does the oil pass through the small hole above a…

Hey guys, after sorting out my last couple of issues with the bike, 2 more have sprung up. Number one is that every now and again the bike would bog down like it had no fuel, even though it did. This used to happen once it had around 1/4 of a tank, filling up would fix the issue. Then it happened slightly more frequently even whilst full, seemed to be when the bike was hot. Today, it cracked the sads big time and I barely managed to baby it back to the ute. Then, after a trip home I decided to try and ride again to see if it was still carrying on. Nope, ran great, pulled hard and revved out happily. My guess is fuel pump but can anyone confirm? This leads me to the…

Quick one about the ybr chain slack, the Haynes manual says its should be checked with the rear wheel elevated and the owners manual says put it on the center stand.they both suggest 20-30mm. But it seems a bit tight when the rear wheels down, even more so with me sat on it, I seem to be getting a bit of chain rattle type noise every now and then. Could be something else, need to Impact drive my sprocket cover off and check it out. Any other ybr owners measure this way?

Bought myself a yb 100 as a project it runs lovely engine is sweet, cleaned the carb fitted a new plug and cap also cleaned the air filter. the only isue I have is that the idle screw seems to do nothing at all, what are the settings for the carb aswell if anyone can help it would be apreciated. cheers

heres a question to a electrically wired member if I wire this circuit only will this be enough to run the bike or do I need more?

Hi there I'm new to this site and to the yzf750, I have just got myself a yzf750 that I bought from an auction. I'm trying to find out how i go about cleaning and balancing the carbs, as it only seems to be running on three cylinders. So I'm gonna put new plugs in it and i wanna balance the carbs but I'm not sure how to do it! So any help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks

hello does anyone know what the basic wiring I would need to run the bike 1 running at all bear in mind there is no loom on the bike at the moment I have a rectifier , indicator relay, cdi ?(not sure if it works though yet , coil what would I need to connect ??? any ideas would be great

Hello all, i am wondering if anyone could help me with my bike that isn't running right. It is a DT 125 LC i believe it is a 1984, i is the unrestricted 10v model. The problems are that when the bike warms up it idles too high, when i turn right it will rev up, and when i am riding it it will rev up and stay like that even if i let go of the throttle, i use the back brake to put it back down again and it seems to be fine after that. All of this seems to be pointing to a short or broken throttle cable but I'm not sure why it would stick high up in revs. If anyone knows or has an idea what this is please reply, and if you need more iinformation dont be afraid to as…

Hi guys I have a 2002 dtr 125 it's a sweat little bike but I need help with the kill switch an ignition It will start with out the key if the kill switch is on run but if you turn the kill switch of it wont So for it to run at lest one of the kill switch or ignition had to be on the only way to turn it off is if the kill an ignition is off Any idea on how to solve this problem it's hard to have a settle head when I can start with out a key thanks

Sorry for another topic but I have nearly the 1k mark to spend on my bike an looking for aftermarket graphics any one know any good websites ?

Looking to pull out the engine on my 1986 XT 350 early next year and renew the piston, rings etc. I've ordered full gasket set and valve stem oil seals. What other parts do I need or are worth changing while the engine is out of the bike? Any advise would be gratefully received. Thanks Steve

Hi guys . Need a bit of advice. Have a 2000 xj600. When I go out on the bike if I hit a grove in the road our where they have been doing road works. The bike twitches on me . I have put new rear wheel bearing in and new spindle. I have put new steering head bearings in . Had the bike up on the Main stand grab the swing arm to check for any free play and it is ok. I can't think wat it is but it is dangerous if I am going at high speed and hit a grove in the road. Can anyone advise Regards Mel.

Hey guys, so I've just had my 2010 yamaha xt 125 rejetted so that it would idle without cutting out. It worked perfect for a couple of days, starting off of the button first time. Now it's been almost a week and the bike is dying again whilst idling, with any amount of choke. So is this thr carb yet again? Thanks in advance

browsing ebay and saw this homemade device. easy to make, bit of square tubing welded to tab with a hole in it and bolt to clamp