Yamaha Workshop

hey peeps, quick question. i've checked the service logs for my 2001 R1 and it has had a valve adjustment done at 38,000km's. its now on 46k.. how often is it neccessary to have this inspected? cheers, YoungR1

two years ago i bought this bike and it was running but the engine was week. i have replace all bottom end bearings gaskets oil seals along with new piston rings. today i have got my bike compleatly reassembled and put back into the bike it has compression and gas but no spark i have tried sanding the points but no luck i cant think of anything eles to try any help whould be apprechiated.

Hi, can't get my yzf750 to rev over 10k even when slipping the clutch it goes upto the amount it slipped to and stops, feels like it has a flat spot about 7k in high gears, air filter is clean plugs are new, if is cold about 5c, it won't rev over 7k Any help appreciated

I have an 89 XT350 with about 16k on it. I put her in the garage and went out of town for a day. When I got back she was sitting on a very damp area of concrete. The carbs had leaked. Ok I figure the needle valves stuck or some such thing. I haven't looked at it yet but am wondering if there is any particular thing these things do that I should look for? She ran great so I would like to do as little messin with it as I can. I am wondering if I take the bowels off and squirt some carb cleaner in there if that may do the trick? thanks Gary

Hi I've got a 1981 DT175MX. The carb on it, which I believe to be original, is model no 2H501. My Haynes manual has the spec for a 2h500, but not the 2H501. What I'm trying to confirm is the correct main jet for this particular carb. The bike came with a 170 fitted, and I reckon that's too rich - the bike struggles to get through 6000, but once through 6000, it takes off. Depending on what you read, it seems 130 or 160 are possible std sizes. Obviously once the main is sorted I can then fine tune the needle setting. Anyone able to help? Many thanks Lee

What are the valve clearances for a 1981 250 exciter?

Hi everyone, When i picked my bike up last sunday from the bike shop, my father in law drove it home for me as i have no licence yet. On his way home he noticed one of the forks is leaking fluid quite badly and it was getting onto the front tyre and gave him a few arse clenching moments! he told me the oil seals and dust seals will need replacing. so i ordered the parts from wemoto and am waiting for them to arrive. I was wondering if any of you guys can give me any do and dont's about doing this work. I have the haynes manual for the bike and i'm quite handy with the tools but i have never done a job like this before so would appreciate any advice. Many thanks …

just bought a 10 plate xmax 250 for commuting my 40 mile round trip daily. both main beam headlights just gone?? bulb filaments are intact and full beam working.fuses all ok.changed bulbs but still nothing.anyone had this problem or any ideas for a fix?many thanks happy biking.

Any tips on bleeding the brakes on a yzf 750. Stripped the Calipers on my yzf which was indeed of need of stripping, can only explain the stuff inside as 19 years of crap, but I have bled the brakes and the lever comes nearly back to the grips, I have bled and bled the brakes but still no good, any help ? Thanks Steve

My bike starts and runs fine for about half an hour - then it cuts out. If i kick/push start the bike at this point it will not start. When I checked the spark plug at this point there is no spark. If i leave it for a day/week and try again - I can see the plug is sparking again, having altered nothing! However, when I replace the tank etc and run it for about half an hour it does exactly the same thing again! I think it may be a coil problem but the coil looks fine/not loose/cables etc. I've replaced so many unnecessary parts on my bike trying to solve problems incorrectly - Is there any way I can test my coil before getting a new one ?

My bike has started virtually first time for the last 6 months. The other day I started it and ran it for about ten minutes and it just cut out like there was suddenly no spark coming from the plug. I pushed the bike home and checked the spark was firing and it was not. It is a relatively new spark plug which has worked fine for the last month. I did try the old plug to see if this worked but it did not. I removed the seat and petrol tank to have a look at the wiring and could find no loose or disconnected wires. I left the bike for a couple of weeks before having a look again. Somehow, after doing nothing other than that that I have said I could see the plug was sparking…

Hi all, Just working my way through all the on-going issues with the old girl and she's now jumping out of 3rd. Just a little and then back in and not all the time. I had the case apart a while ago and it's been since then. I haven't been able to resolve it by trying to make sure that I had the selector levers adjusted properly but that doesn't seem to be working and may be un-related. Everything else feels pretty good. Any ideas appreciated, Gordo

I have a 2003 Yamaha SR250 that needs some work to it, can anyone point me in the right direction for a 2002/2003 SR-250 service manual? Or know where i can find one? Hopefully in the manual, of if someone knows, i'm after a couple of pieces of information: (1) The volume of fork oil? (2) The fork spring length and acceptable limits (3) Distance of the fork cap to the triple clamp (i'm guessing i'll see where it is now, and replicate this - is this right?). Cheers, Sir B.

Hi all Just got back into biking after 20 yrs or so, bought a new yam yzf r125 great bike but could do with a little more power, can anyone advise me how to derestrict thanks

just wondering what everyones opinions on what chain oil / greese to use. was thinking about getting a scotoiler, but when i was speaking to one of the local bike mechanics he was saying if i was to use industrial grease, ( the tube type you need a grease gun for ) it would last as long as a full scotoiler. . . what you's think ?

Just looking at one of OG's old post and if anybody needs help with the following, let me know. I have an A5 micro fiched transfer of the original parts handbook that covers the 35a model but appears to be working perfectly with my 34x DT. I have also tracked down the original handbook from 1986. I have the compulsory Haynes mannaul but I'm assuming that you're not that cheap to ask me for that! If you need any of these emailing over, drop me a line and I'll be glad to help.

Have recently started using my XJ600N at the weekends for runs and trips, i have discovered that after a distance of about 40+ miles there seems to be oil dripping from a breather from the oil tank when i stop, i thought it might just be that the previous owner had ether filled the oil up to, or above the max limit, and as the engine heats up it causes to tank to overflow into the breather ? will get some pictures uploaded asap. Cheers

Hey, just wondering if anyone could help me with my front brake rattle. My XJ has a single front break disk, the problem is it seems to have a severe rattle coming from it whenever i go over a bum, or uneven surface . . .the breaks themself still work really well, but the rattle is getting a bit annoying. any idea ? was thinking of stripping the caliper for cleaning and inspection but thought i might as well see what everyone thinks before doing this. Thanks Matthew

As mentioned in my new member introduction and in my project forum, one of the things wrong on my 86 MK 3 DT was that the left hand gear switch was somewhat, well, lacking in switches. It has the HI LO switch along with the headlight controls but no indicators or horn button. Read my intro if you want to know more about the horn button! I can get a brand new switch for £78.04 but I really am loathed so part with that much for such a small part and after several false promises from so called breakers, I'm having no luck getting one second hand. Now I've been thinking ...... Similar to the situation where fixing my Goldwing starter motor gave me the confidence …

Hi Recently bought a SR 250 Classic 1999 with only only 6000 km on the counter. My problem that it rattles for the first 5 minutes of driving. It says that its important to bleed the oilfiltercover after a oilchange and I did that. The day after the oilfilter reservoir is completely empty and I bleed it again. Somehow the oil seems to run back. There is a kind of oilvalve in the oilplug at the button of the engine, could this be leaking ? I run 20W50 REDLINEOIL. When warm the engine runs almost noiseless but the rattling when starting up scares me. Any ideas, anyone ? kind regards Jan