Cynic

Garbage, i treat every motorist like they are a half blind pensioner with a death wish and treat them all accordingly. I drive trucks for a living and have heard more than once, " sorry mate i didn't see you", Its 14ft high,50ft long, lights on day or night, if they cannot see that whats some tat on the back of your bike going to do.

Doesent have valve seats, what it does, or rather did! was have crank seals, they are long dead. I would bet just about every seal on that motor is split or has shrunk to the point of failure. Would be a VERY smart move to fit new crank bearings at the same time as having sat that long they may well be toast so while your there for an extra tenner. Check the other significant bearings too. They can sometimes rust if they have been left without a covering of oil. Depends on where you are but as you haven't given us ANY real information to work with I'm guessing. You can get full seal and gaskets from fowlers. Bike has been in production as far as the engine goes for donkeys years, parts are readily available. Cycle parts not so much.

If its not captive you will not get it undone as it will spin inside the tank.

A campsite i know well in Bude is taking bookings with a lockdown guarantee. So if you cannot go because of this covid crap you don't lose out. Must be others around the country. Just pick a weekend and keep your fingers crossed i guess.

Have you checked it, is vac operated a leaky line vac line could cause issues.

Its the rectifier, takes ac from the generator feeding to the headlight, once the rectifier has made it into dc(of sorts) it goes to the battery and the rest of the bike.

My daughters Aprilia scoot had some weird issues that turned out to be the plug cap.

Myself? I would go with the 100/90 as the width will sit better on the rim matching the original and any height difference if it affects the ride at all can be negated by dropping the forks up through the yolks by 10mm.

Had this taking a mate of mine to Margate to pick his bike up from his in laws. Dopey bastard fell asleep, that in its self wasn't the issue the issue was him waking up mid roundabout and leaning in like he was pilot. Waiting for the punchline??? I was 11 stone sopping wet and he was chasing 20 so you can imagine the scene, we decked everything, my knee (with sliders, that stopped us going down i think) pegs, exhaust, centre stand, it must have looked like the forth of July. He then realises his sleepy mistake and decides as I'm fighting to lift the bike..... To lean the other way at which point it stands up like a teens first hardon and aims for the barrier. After nearly high siding me in the process i get the bike back under control and have to pull over in the layby for a smoke (i did at the time) and to call him 3 kinds of cnt but we ended up laughing like idiots in front of a tea van.

It will likely not go to a youngen, at 80cc its a 17 yo that would be legal and they are not going to want an 80 when there are 125's to fall off of. Does it really matter if you have a fist full of cash. I work with a guy (ex racer too) that goes looking for low mileage minters when his current ride to work dies, his latest came as a 16thousand mile minter, never seen rain, absolutely imaculat inside and out, full Suzuki service history (by time not miles) GSXR750 with a sports pipe and hugger etc. The last 3 years its now on 40k miles ridden year round and looks it. When it dies in a few years he will go looking for another. That owner may well get sold the same promises and watch it leave with a tear in their eye before it power wheelies into hacksville.

Cold seize is only really likely on dedicated race kit, at the end of the day its a scoot that will be used day to day and running cold wont be an issue. Did you fully bleed the cooling system, these scoots have a nasty habit of trapping air in the cylinder head.

OK. Have you measured the piston. Propperly I mean with a top middle and bottom and the barrel to see what the clearance is. Quality kits have the barrel bored to the piston. Cheaper units are just spec made parts put together.

One of my dads mates (now passed) used to always bring up a story about them going on the piss and my dad falling asleep on the back of his goldie, whats funny about that, he dosed off alright, right off the back. Tumbled like a rag doll apparently and got up with little more than scratches. He is convinced to this day being asleep AND pissed up save him from breaking anything.

I think your problem is crank, the crank seized not the piston that's why its in good nick. The smoke, white smoke is oil but that can only be 2 stroke but you haven't been far enough to burn off the assembly oil. That would be my guess, not a massive pain to fix, would have been much simpler if you threw in a new crank and bearings while you were renewing the piston kit, crank kit is not massive money, certainly less than the sport kit if its any good. A sport spec 70cc capable crank is only 60 or 70 quid. A bone stock unit is about 25.

If it turns over its not a short in the loom its a component issue, either the solenoid or the motor.

Guy rode round the world on an R1, should be easy on the ybr.

Not sure. The ones I'm looking at give standard operation for the first 40% then it ramps up to be fully open with 5 or 6 different options. The power delivery of my max (looks for all the world like headwork has been done amongst other stuff). Is way too brutal to make it more sensitive lower down. Would turn it into highside city. I need the low range to be normal but get full power without having to shift my grip to get full throttle.

That's what the ones I'm looking at have. Like I said the cheap shit is worthless. The mid/upper level types use a changeable ratio. From drag strip level where its almost switch like down to fast road.

Doesent feel much like Christmas. We normally have a house full and next door normally have a huge party/piss up open house style with a lot of the neighbours at. So it feels really wierd. Still we're all healthy. Both of us still working. So it's a big win really. Have a good one.

I know it's quiet on here now but the people I'm asking will still be popping in. As title. As father time and a mispent youth catch up I want to reduce the stress on my wrists and reducing the physical twist on the throttle would be a big help. There is everything from 40 quid specials to gold plated 500 quid tat for the posurs. There are a few in the 100 to 150 quid range that have an ajustable ratio that seems like a good idea. Anybody used something like this.

Surely the cdi will fire the plugs wen it gets the signal from the pick up. So if the 950 sends the signal to the cdi it will fire, no mater what the 125 firing sequence is. The only flaw is the ig advance will likely be different between the engines, by how much ? who knows.

I am in the process of fitting a koso all in one to my vmax. TNT 04. Does everything , rpm speed several warning lights etc. Looks cool too. Thing is with these units is they are designed to fit everything. So you will have to adapt and modify some of your bike and some of the unit to match them up. It will be possible to get them on and working very quickly, depends on how nice you want it to look. I have spent the time gutting the stock spedo and modified the stock bracket and the koso bracket to make a hybrid that will make the whole unit look almost factory.

There is a seal on the back of the 2s pump, not sure if its available as a part or it would be easier to replace the pump. If you do change the pump make sure you use your drive gears as they vary slightly.

Got one of these on the way for the vmax, sick of looking down away from where im going to see the rpm. Wife's blessing too, (for the clock anyway. Also going to delete the current but soon to be redundant rev counter/idiot light setup on the tank and make it a switch panel for power, fan override, trickle charge connection, etc. https://www.digital-speedos.co.uk/gauges-c4/motorcycle-gauges-c27/multifunction-gauges-c29/koso-tnt-04-multifunction-gauge-speed-rpm-temp-gear-indicator-8-colour-back-grounds-p674?fbclid=IwAR2t_Qi5r3oMymKc1UFn6ZpkSHEZR_JIPvar8-E4EMVk46Gw3et95k4vwec

Bad choice for any extra go, bar some kind of engineering miracle you got all that engine has to give, how it was designed. You will struggle to break it though. Likely nothing more than a duf plug.