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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/14/2024 in all areas

  1. OK So pulled the back wheel checked and cleaned everything tensioned chain and tried again….No good! Did 5 days in France which was lovely but buzz noise persisted. On return I decided for the sake of 15 quid to replace the front sprocket….Ideally you replace both sprockets and chain at same time but as only done 4/5 k miles on these happy to make an exception and also just to see if things improved. When I compared the new to the old the old had indentations from the chain in the rubber damper. Maybe the chain was too tight or maybe it was a duff one. Good news on the test ride as now the buzzing is no more! I had fitted DID chain with JT sprockets this time but in future will pay the extra for the Yam parts. Happy riding
    2 points
  2. Those first 2 options are definitely not going to work lol The tin can insert idea will probably work until you find a replacement.
    1 point
  3. Thank you Neo. Yes its gone oval and the shim if it ever had one is long gone... I'm either going with ptfe tape and see how long it lasts... or some copper slug repelling tape... or last ditch... a tin can insert or tin can new shim... or very last ditch.... I'll buy a new one. Many thanx.
    1 point
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  5. Hi there Boxoffrogs, you've unfortunately posted in the wrong section, this is the area for 1st posts to introduce yourself, this needs to be in the Workshop section. As you're a paid up member you can be forgiven, hopefully a mod can move this into the right section. As regards to your DT cylinder , is this a Psychic one? which i think means you need their 70mm race carb to go with it as it's not compatible with the OEM carb. see ebay photo in their listing..https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303728870851?itmmeta=01HYG5QDDRHVF8964F7Y944430&hash=item46b7a6c5c3:g:jacAAOSwVI5haWBL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwDaUsbdex5Z%2FN%2F%2BeVDKSxvLRGMTuGxYA58GZnk0VNgNrMmiz1O4x%2Fe%2Bo2peb%2B%2B13MeGLpf9Xy%2B%2FIQB8%2BnvKl688piZg5w3vDIhIguWQq7J91Gz7xt3pHMo%2FYppxpNzxSglAmHzHLGvT2%2BkRYZENreX3qzShHmEOoQX9AuUP6qf6eV%2FcCGzyq99Inak%2FkOMHHAdJWPvmVM3iCYU2F%2B6MKXHB3UWdfU0eCAOcoqUbdH5Tl6WLsmKl05zgii4PQlfIbcw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4rX3YX0Yw
    1 point
  6. Ahh can see now, you're referring to this bit? yes?. ..and you have already worked out the cause and remedy. It's very common for parts like this to have a bronze sleave lining/bush inside and it's that part that has probably worn away causing the boss to move about on the pivot. You can fabricate a new sleeve providing you can find a similar material, I know this because taking bikes apart you come across various bodges that previous owners have tried to varying degrees of success. So the part you would need is the arm itself as the lining bush will be part of it. That's why it doesn't show up on the parts diagram. and if there wasn't a bush then the boss is just machined metal with a close tolerance when new which has simply gone oval over the years. The two options being: to either ream it out so the hole is equal all around (remove the oval) and fit a metal sleave/bushing of uniform thickness. or cut a sliver of metal and try wrapping it around the shaft, i.e bodge it. You can get thin tin brass, metal sheets in modelling shops, that you can try fabricating one from, try ebay. something like this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145190789050?itmmeta=01HYFM8YJR8XNME4P2JJBPXDRV&hash=item21ce0b9fba:g:JnIAAOSw16hkrgAq&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwF1kt81QocyvSrSnVPobJjdkDG7uW3KM%2F4gs%2FS1p4jjAj773U51RvIl9E4q0Rw4kGb8CdrvFVuG2%2FIGtIq0MdhmdaJYIWBpQCPXcxmxvMWGO3HGbZvFP9Rq9lWvRBbJQVwjuIjL40DoIrxvZV%2Bvx%2F7Pnkj3%2FPY4I6ds4ddUWxo1C%2Btfey1YsMC0heHBRbVDaxF40Nc0uVgQYosEBcGAwmCOs3C9hUdY4KPJnbPRi%2BWWPgn4Mfk01R6oMM%2FrFXk0%2FEQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8Tpo_TzYw
    1 point
  7. That is good news, Glad you got it sorted, I did say it's going to be something simple, sounds like different tolerances on the two sprockets causing the issue with chain. Thinking about it, I have a vague memory of something similar on one of my bikes in the long distance past that required a swap out of poorly machined parts, I don't recall the noise you describe but the solution was replace with a different sprocket to cure the problem. and well done for coming back with the end result. All too often there are multiple posts that remain unfinished with no conclusion or report back. I've given you another like on your last post there to help put you on the leaderboard.
    1 point
  8. Yes, it doesn't help that you've managed to get your handbag strap in the way either!
    1 point
  9. When you say Alternative to electric driven fuel tap, is that what it is? I thought the solenoid was part of the fuel shut off system. The fuel pump which is electric driven is elsewhere. i may be wrong, but i think the fuel tap doesn't include the pump, they are separate. (its just the terminology you're using may be throwing me, a solenoid being just a type of switch, whereas driven implies a motor) Removing the existing shut off valve and tap and simply replacing it with a gravity tap, is probably not difficult. But is there enough room to get at it? You may have to consider that If you disconnect the solenoid you may get a fault code on the ECU, so you may have that to contend with. Can you not repair the solenoid? I found a vid on youtube which may be of some help.... https://youtu.be/ZldV4FHF2n4
    1 point
  10. Welcome in, and hope you're on two wheels soon!
    1 point
  11. Hello everyone, Just joined the club to see what goes on with a view to become a full member and thought I would introduce myself. Got my first bike at 17 in 1968, Yamaha C90 and over the years had many yamaha's including 2 fjr1300's, a Diversion 600 and 3 Tracers with the 9GT being the bike I'm now on two and a half years old with almost 18000 miles on it.I also have a Triumph bonneville t100(sorry if that's swearing on this forum) I joined the IAM when I reached 68 years old to see if I was still capable to ride and still riding at 72 so must be doing something right.
    1 point
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