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Useful fault finding stuff https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1x1ojthv4h7925/Troubleshooting 3P PMG %26 RR.pdf?dl=0 https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073

Okay..just took out the bolt that should be the ground and where negative battery cable is connected together with another mesh of wires going down to the bolt. Looked okay. Dont know how to measure it with a test lamp but I am still surprised what can make this bike totally dead. Do you know how to test the ignition lock with a testlamp or multimeter ? -

Phew " sounds like a big project, you can pick up a decent DT here for the money it"l cost to ship/restore that one, to get a V5 you"l need the old title/log book, if not , you"l need a dating cert,[ Aircooled Rd club do them ], mind you need a N.O.V.A. number when importing ,[ duties cert ],,

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Hello everyone, I have 2008 Yamaha Zuma 49cc 2-stroke that is having issues starting. I have spark, fuel (fresh gas) is flowing through the line when I suck on the vac line, but my compression is pretty low, 70 psi. I will crank the engine 7 or 8 times, my compression tester will reach around 70 psi, then I will hear a slight release of pressure and the pressure on the gauge will slowly bleed down. I'm performing the test with the carburetor off, reed valve (new reed valve assembly) cage installed. Any ideas on what to check next? Thanks

Hello, I am the lucky owner of a Yamaha XT 660X from 2004. Unfortunately, I discovered some months ago a crack in the outer tube of the fork (right). It is located where the two screws are. You can find two pictures there: https://postimg.cc/gallery/Z4sqvLQ. The crack is also present between the two screws (not visible on the pictures). According to several forums, it would be a known problem of the Yamaha XT 660X, at least of this version. Yamaha is out of stock of this part and they are not producing it any more. Speaking French and Italian, I looked for a second hand spare part. However, Yamaha changed the design of the outer tube between 2005 and 2006. I only found second-hand forks of recent versions. Does anyone know if mounting the whole fork from a more recent model could be feasible? I also got the contact of someone offering to weld the crack. But it would cost around 400-600 euros and he cannot guarantee the repair. I am afraid the crack will reappear quite soon after. Does anyone have experience with this kind of repair? Any other idea? Many thanks, Romain

i tried looking up My Model by the VIN but could not find an exact match, My VIN is 3H3-01179 but could only find 3H4 which was listed as an XS1100SF Thankx N Advance Ronnie

Hi Ben, Welcome to the group and to this side of the Planet! To get free MOT and free road tax you have to first have your V5C registration documents issued by DVLA to state 'HISTORIC' in the taxation class. I can't help you how to obtain the V5C in the first place though! Someone else will hopefully explain how you go about importing a bike into the UK and getting your V5C. Here's my actual account of how I changed my V5C to HISTORIC. as mentioned in the text , it's not an automatic process just because its over 40 years old. From DVLA's point of view they are quite happy for you to pay Road Tax, they won't tell you that you can get it for free, nor will they tell you the Bike is elgible. Incidently, whilst the road tax is 'free', the MOT side of it is; YOU are declaring that it is SAFE to be on the road, and are taking full responsibility for it meeting the road safety standard for an Historic bike. Although there is nothing stopping you putting your bike through for an MOT and paying for it. You also mention you'd like to do a 12v conversion, well I too did this to my DT175MX over 10 years ago and here's the indepth account on how I went about it, have a read if you haven't already. Usual disclaimer applies. This was my bike, no idea if it would work on yours! https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/25945-dt-175-mx-12volt-conversion/ well, there's a start for you, once again welcome to the group, whilst your here, why not pop over to the new members section and do a brief introduction,which always goes down well. All the best NE0

Probably, but that one is the usual culprit...

thanks I will try to check it again tonight - is there other grounds to be checked than the battery earth ?

Hi everyone. Hope this message find you well. I am a new member here and most likely will ask a lot of the questions that have already been asked. Pre apologies... I am shipping a 1979 DT 125 from NZ to UK as we are moving home to Scotland. The bike is matching frame and numbers here in NZ. Not road registered though. It is essentially a rolling frame that needs a full restoration, but the bones of it are healthy. I love DTs, had loads as a kid. I also will be sitting my bike license in the UK and will be restricted to a 125 for a while until I can apply for a full license. I cant think of a 125 id rather have. So, finally... My first questions.... As far as I know, this bike is old enough to not require and MOT or TAX as its is over 40 years old. A friend who has a vintage Suzuki told me that he has been able to verify its age through the Suzuki owners club, and then register his bike this way. Does anyone have any experience of this or could offer any advice/ Thanks Ben P.S I will be documenting the restoration/modification of the bike, and will most likely have a ton more questions. The bike needs and engine rebuild and didn't come with a exhaust or full wiring loom so it will be a resto mod rather than a concourse rebuild/restoration. So here are the list of planned mods for the numbers matching engine:--- Expansion Chamber and silencer. Boyeson Reeds. Light port mods, matching an de burring etc. 12v Conversion. Electronic ignition. Pod Filter and re jetting. I want this one to just run well and be healthy. I also have a second engine that I will go a lot more "extreme" on with the "Big Block" 175 head and piston and more extreme tuning / porting etc as I don't mind this engine suffering an early death. i had read somewhere a while ago of someone grafting a Yamaha Blaster 200 head on to one of these Feel free to throw in your two pence worth of tuning advice, parts list or recommendations etc. Please don't suggest "getting a bigger bike" as it has to be a 125, or disguised 175... until i have a full license, and even then. this is about tuning a 125, not getting a bigger bike.

Checked the main battery earth?

hi there, I have a xs750 from ´77 build as a cafe racer and suddenly with NO power and no ignition at all. USed to work just fine. So I needed to try to find out where to start searching for at solotion. I have changed to a new battery and tested it. I have also testet starter solenoid which seems ok as well. Starter motor had some problems so I´ve cleaned it and also seems to work fine now. The problem must be electrical and therefore I´ve replaced all fuses with new ones. Why dont I get any power to the bikes indicator lamp, light etc..all dead ? I have not checked ignition switch and not the rectifier since I dont know how. Could it simply be the ignition switch that cuts all power ? I´m not a mechanic and I´m new to all the multimeter measuring - so I wish I knew how to break it down measuring from battery to starter solonoid, to starter motor and further to... ? Last option is to tape off all wires and start from the beginning, which I would prefer not to if not nessecary. Any tips are most welcome. Thanks /bongo

You realise this is a 3 year old thread?

Hi there Mikael, ive had to join up and everything to hope that you see this message but where did you get your restrictor from as im looking the buy the same bike cant find where to buy them from, what year and model did/do you have?

Anyone know which Yamaha blue is closest to the M1's?

Welcome in James, and a great intro, thanks for that. You're bound to have a great level of experience, so hopefully you stick around and contribute to the forum.

Hihi!

James

Thread is a decade old. op only checked in twice.

Back in 1973 I bought an RD250 from the horrid bike dealer Gambier Reeks. I holed a piston and dropped in a 350cc engine rather than repair. The RD I had was the round tank edition with blue paintwork. I was young and naive with no mechanical background (then)... so when the small ends went, regrettably I sold it and bought a 500-4. Later, in 90's I bought an FJ1200 and kept her for 13 years, an awesome bike she ate consumables but was a 'rocket sofa' LOL.... I had several bikes over the years, too many to mention here - eventually I succumbed to getting onto a BMW GSA Adventure - it was stolen and I saw sense decided to be more practical, thoughtfully got an XT660z (second hand of course). She goes everywhere with me, I am off to Norkapp and also, later this year to Switzerland. We went to Berlin in January before C-19... Yamahas have SOUL and are not ridden by berks, in the main scheme of things. I have ridden, despatched, taught and worked on bikes for 45 years now... 1995 R1100RS sits in the garage (want to sell her), next to a 1984 R80RT I have had her for last 30 years! So - nice to be her, cheers, James

@Noise; Surely you can answer him? The poor guy wanted info... Yes, I too have an Xt660z 2010 and have fitted a power commander (with O2 sensor) also DNA air filter. It definitely makes a difference but it would be fine without. It is best noticed when in lower rev range but you might feel a little more inclined to use the throttle more and increase petrol use accordingly! Maybe get it set up properly on a dyno, I am considering doing that. (£200+) - you need a Windows PC to set it up, dont forget...

Found a few that sell similar types as the originals. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294292358673?hash=item4485310611:g:P28AAOSwW2xhCGD2 so will keep looking. Think I will get new brake pipes, and ditch the china disk. I do want to stop a few times safely.

Hihi... 1/ I'd be inclined to ditch the hoses and get new ones anyway, if they're originals, they'll be toast. Reservoirs are 10 a penny, if it doesn't clean easily, just get a new one. It's your callipers that you need to concentrate on, strip them down and give them a damn good cleaning! 2/ Bad things!!! Maybe it's just me, but I wouldn't touch that with a 10 foot battle lance! Cough up some cash and pass the problem to a reputable bike garage. 3/ Google is your friend, it looks like there's loads of options out there..!

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