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- Today
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Helen joined the community
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LM10 changed their profile photo
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Ding ding! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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It will for each leg A rule of thumb I use is, with the springs removed, I will top the oil up to 150mm below the top of the forks (well I say 6", but you young guns might not know what that is). That 150mm is for a road bike tho' not sure about trail bikes
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NewGuy changed their profile photo
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jettemerson changed their profile photo
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Rey Csar Nacianceno changed their profile photo
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Yeah make sure it's running first, change the oil and make sure you change the break fluid!
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Welcome aboard Jack, both great bikes. No one else's opinions will be better than your riding them both and see what works best for you. For me I'd get the R1 for general road use, but the R6 will faster round the track for most average riders.
- Yesterday
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jonjem changed their profile photo
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Grasstrack3 changed their profile photo
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Hello, I’m looking to buy a used R1 or R6. Been riding bikes for over 40 years. Mostly dirt bikes but also a lot of street. Currently full sized Goldwing and a KTM 500 dual sport. Closest to a sport bike has been my FJR 1300 and my FZ-09. trying to decide between the 600 and 1000. I can get a 2003 R6 with only 2500 miles for $3500 or an 2005 R1 with 26000 miles for $4000. Most of my friends say get the R1, I’m just not sure though. I’m 6’ and 220. Want the one that I will be most comfortable on. I’m 52, and don’t plan on hot dogging or stunting. Maybe try a track day or two, occasional wheelies, but just casual fun short rides around the area. (Pacific Northwest). Looking for suggestions and reasons. Thanks in advance!!
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Jackswr joined the community
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'Sigh' Still with the restricted myth. back in the 80's and 90's when the learner rules came in European bikes were not affected. Due to the learner uk market being small they just castrated the 20-30hp euro 125's for the brit market. the brit teens, me being one at the time. Promptly ripped out said restrictions and got 80% of that power back. Modern 125's like the YZF are not restricted at all. The emission and noise regs they have to pass mean they make the hp they are designed to. You can throw a fortune at it and get a few hp but not enough to shout about for what it will cost. Spend the money on rider lessons, knowing how to brake and take a corner will make you much faster than an extra 3 hp.
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Rob L changed their profile photo
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Charlie Arqueza Bon Jr. changed their profile photo
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yes jimmy, all sorted just need to make sure i get the right amount of oil in. i now got service manual and convert what i think into ml. it says us 10.3 us oz now it does not say total or in each fork? so if i got it right that is just under 305ml...?
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2 stroke! But im biased, if your not racing, crosser is a bit wasted really. Enduro would be better, still fast, road legal (ish) will do what any crosser can well beyond most peoples (honest) abilities. If you have to have the crosser, their serviced on hours not miles, not many either. Im at a loss to the actual numbers but its low. Oil change after each meet, prob a chain a meet too.
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I like 2 strokes = cheaper to fix, the Yz125 is a peaky motor, and needs to be ridden hard, ,so 250f for torque, and newbees i think ,,
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Nicholas Inman changed their profile photo
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Bosquetango changed their profile photo
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I am led to beleive that the rear caliper from an FZS1000 Fazer with fit with a little filing. Search the FOC club (Fazer Owners Club) for more info
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As above, you need to get the motor running before spending any money/time on it. Carbs cleaned, new air filter, fresh fuel, and I guess the battery will be shagged by now too. Make sure theres oil in the motor before you try to turn it over, ooh, and clean the plugs. That should keep you busy. If it fires up, dont ride it until youre sure the tyres arent gooing to blow, give them a real good look over. And check the brakes work
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The carbs will need cleaned, & empty old fuel out of tank,,
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Hey justin, be assured you are not bothering anyone, we all like talking bikes, and if we can help we will....no bother Ref fork oil, does that mean you got it apart? and you really need to pick up a manual for it
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Newbie here so please be patient hahaha At a crossroads now as to which bike im gonna go with. I've whittled it down to two. YZ125 or YZ250F (New most likely and leaning towards the 250F) Skill level.. Noob. I've heard the "buy cheap and work your way up" many times. So please leave that bit out of any posts pleasee 🤣 Whats the best "servicing" process do you guys and gals go through after every ride or so too? i do understand the level of up-keep on these competition bikes is extensive but im really looking for the absolute best process and best products to use. Dont worry about budget products. I'm really looking for the perfect process and who better to ask than all you petrolheads! 🤣 Also, quick vote! which bike would you go for? The 125 or the 250F? 2-stroke vs. 4-stroke?
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thank you to everyone, i pushed even harder with success, i do lots of searches before i bother anyone on here. i do try sort things myself. thank you all, and dont suppose anyone knows the amount of oil in each fork? after searching i see so so many different answers, so i got to thinking it is just under 305ml.? in each fork.. anyone confirm this? or correct amount. thank you in advance oh am i missing something, why does no one have a thank you button?? or i just cant see them.
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"We are experts at colour matching and painting colour coded plastic parts" Doesn't mention powder coating plastic? Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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Hi there I’m looking to get a better top speed on my 2008 Yamaha yzf r125 it’s got a couple of bits done to it like straight pipe sports exhaust upgrade brakes but wanna get the most out of my engine it’s got a rev limiter at 10k revs and just want to fully derestrict it
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Ross1235 joined the community
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Moto18 joined the community
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Hi all I’m a new rider just got my full license and have just bought my first bike very proud to say it’s a XJ600N on a 2000 plate with only 5000 miles on it from new. my question is it has be sat up for 10 years and I’m picking it up tomorrow what should I be looking for and doing with it when I am at the dealership thanks
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Bigbossowen joined the community
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https://www.pentlandpowdercoating.co.uk/product-services/colour-coded-plastic/
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"most of what you say"....Thats an improvement. The first time we met I could see from your coupon that you never understood anything I said 😁
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Powder coating involves baking the parts at high temperatures, not good for plastic parts. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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The front tyre is a Michelin 300-19. I have checked the forks and they look straight and parallel with free and easy movement. I suspect that it is what it is but if I can make it a little easier for her it would be good. I was just wondering if other owners of these bikes had the same experience.
- Last week
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I'm looking to have my mudguards painted. Heard that you can get plastic powder coated, how good is it?
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Yes I know jimmy, but it's so hard to explain it in text compared to video and I can't understand most of what you say anyway you do make a cracking brew though
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Have a look at the forks just to make sure they look straight and parallel to each other. At the end of the day, its not going to drop into the corners like a sporty, but if the front end all checks out, then it is what it is, a cruiser, made for going in straight lines
