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No worries. Which way were you doing it?

Hi all, quick question if I may: My YBR has a noisy knocking engine and so I have a spare to swap with it missing only the alternator coil but it has the flywheel/magneto rotor. so I put the swap engine in and used my original coil and cover from the first engine. Im getting ok compression 80ish so i think the valves need cleaning up but I am also getting error 46 about power supply to Fuel injection. Can i assume the flywheel/magneto rotor on the swap engine is bad? I cant see what else has changed...

Super thanks for your help. I have replaced the bleed nipple, put new seals in the caliper, installed a new braided line and changed the master over as mentioned above. Passed its MOT the other day and running fine.

Watching Chippenham could have that effect,,,,,

No pics shown, i take it its points,, an they have come loose,?

The best over trousers I had were richa rain warriors

Advice/thoughts please. Should I just get these rewound, and if so who'd be good to do it? Or could i buy a replacement? Or maybe electronic ignition? I don't know a lot, so even if it is simple let me know please. inside the flywheel the cam runs free. This must need to be held in place. So there is a little hole in the bottom of the cam and then the retarder (I think it is called something like that), and which you can see failed and the arm of it came loose and chewed up the coils. Well, that little arm should go into that hole to hold it in place??? I'll need another one of those or have to make the old one do, but what are they called? Anyway, here's the pics

The seams of mine are internally taped, however, I think I've found the problem, part of the tape is loose. What I need now is some rubber cement! I still want some better waterproofs though.

Slice, as per your original post, believe me and as you and everybody on here knows there is a lot of nice people about. I have been helped by total strangers and myself have helped total strangers. I've even knelt down on the pavement and helped an injured dog and carried to it to a vet in a strange town whilst visiting in an RN vessel. It's always nice to know that if something happens there's always someone that will stop and help. I could bore everyone about when coming back from a football match with my son on the back who decided to feint but won't. Mike.

Going back a lot of years SB I found that when going to and from work I had a pair of waterproof leggings where the seams especially around the crotch area were "welded" rather than stitched and never had any problems with as you so eloquently put it "soggy knackers" Mike.

I'll be there all being well

Your welcome to that.

Hello, I am looking to replace blocked injector on my YBR125 (2007 model). It appears that YBR125 injector is far more expensive compared to YZF125 or WR125. Could anyone please help me with the following: 1. What is the flow rate of original injector fitted in ybr125 (2007)? 2. Can I use slightly higher flow rate injector? 3. Are YZF or other Yamaha 125 injectors (with two pin connection that look same as ybr125 injector) actually same in physical dimension? Thanks in advance.

i'm there tomorrow. had the tour of Tameside running festival to do and finished that today with the Dr Ron 7 mile road race. 32 miles in all over 4 days

So now that has set the tone. Who is actually going. I'm assuming Andy is already there.

The gianelli pipes were always regarded as a better pipe that gave better mid range at the expense of a little bit of top end power. Microns on the other hand gave you every ounce of top end go but if your engine was not 100%... They got a bit of a rep as engine killers because of it. Not fair really, not a new thing kids blaming others eh? All I know about the actual servos for certain is they are very reliable and some have more wires than others. But yes if you have a 4dl the safest route is all 4dl parts.

So what you're saying is the 4dl servo with the control unit inside wont work if spliced into a 2rh cdi unit (even if its a 3 wire 4dl servo) and it would be instead a case of 4dl servo needing a 4dl cdi, which would also need the 4dl flywheel and mag / whole engine in order for the cdi to work? ill give them a call at some point but is there any rough price i might be looking at? I can't find any prices or even ways to buy any zeeltronic stuff from their site... I've got a mikuni that has "26" stamped on the air filter intake end, im assuming this is a stock carb and is also known as the VM22? Also again does anyone know if the giannelli exhausts are any good on the tzr125? link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113678185449?epid=2109577761&hash=item1a77bf73e9:g:6yQAAOSwiZhcgksl

1 I wouldn't. 2 Best to speak to them. From the tdr forums I use the zeeltronics units are the goto upgrade as cdi's for TDR's and TZR'S are getting harder to find and more expensive not to mention guaranteeing its working. 3 Yes. The earlier bikes have different cdi's that won't swap. Whatever bike you have will dictate the cdi you use. Often the cdi needs the corresponding flywheel and mag combination too so beware of what your changing and why. You could end up chasing down very rare parts. That's why the zeeltronics is such a tempting option.

Ok i seem to have found a fairly well priced full athena gasket set, this might be a stupid question but if it turns out the engine we're building is screwed can i re-use the gaskets for the top end when i re-fit a rebored barrel? The zeeltronic stuff looks great, im assuming since it supports dt125's it also supports the tzr125? Because it doesnt mention compatibility with the tzr125 specifically. I'm guessing what you mean with the ypvs stuff is that if i can find a 2rk/rh/rm etc etc valve and box it should work just fine but if i use the later ones for 4dl etc etc id need a 4dl cdi unit too? Wondering if the cdi unit for the 4dl would work on my 2rk... OR i could some zeeltronic stuff but the site kind of confuses me, if their stuff is even compatible with the 2rk tzr125 do you know what products i would need to do what i want and how much the parts would be? Thanks again for the reply!

They are 2 different systems, the servos may be the same, they actually use the servos in tdr250, the rd's all the way up to 500 as well as the vmax believe it or not. As to the control, they are 2 different systems, you either have the cdi and the control box that lives in the tail (early) or the later unit where it is all in the cdi, shooters choice on that one, or, junk the whole sorry unreliable mess and upgrade to a zeeltronic ZEELTRONIC - HOME unit that controls ignition and allows you to set up the powervalve to your preference. As to the bigbore, yes an athena big bore makes these into serious 100+mph motorcycles but the gearbox cannot handle the torque, lacking thrust bearings and positive lubrication so it dies. Considering how good and well rounded a sweet tzr motor is you don't need a bigbore. One thing that is utterly unescapable on yam liquid cooled 2 strokes, genuine or athena head gaskets ONLY, anything else WILL fail.

Thanks for the replies already everyone! Well this is going to be a fun weekend bike, garaged 9 months of the year most likely, and im already going to have to rebuild the top end anyway it seems so im still inclined to hook-up the servo considering ill struggle to break 1k miles in the year and the engine will be freshly re-built (and run in!). From what i've heard a big bore kit will cause catastrophic bottom end failure eventually, can anyone confirm? i'm looking at the 120 quid Giannelli exhausts that still seem to be everywhere for the tzr's and then jet the mikuni vm26 that the bike already has on it, hope the carb wont restrict power after tuning? As for the ypvs servo i'm assuming 'cynic' was talking about like a mechanical alternative to matching one specifically for the tzr's which is a great idea and could work great but there is someone with 4 ypvs valves for sale from like the 4dl and up which i think means they have the control modules in the servo too, so instead of having to find a control box as well as servo then splice the box into the cdi you just splice the servo wires straight into the cdi and away you go? If this is true wouldn't that be the easier (and potentially cheaper too) way to go?

I've got some Rev-it 2 piece textiles. They're the laminated outer rather than a lining so the water doesn't soak into the fabric

Do you have any particular examples / suggestions? There's something liberating in riding in the wet (so long as your knackers stay dry!)... Yes, you stay dry and warm and can have a peaceful fag in the car, but it's just not the same! Trust the rubber..!

Wuss

i dont ride in the wet. thats what cars are for!