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Not a clue on reliability, never heard of them before. But E-Bay is your friend most of the time for parts. Past that there's always Yambits : Yambits - Yamaha Parts

Welcome in, I had to google what a Radian was, but looks cool. If you become a full member here, you can get a discount on your insurance from Bikesure...

Hello! Recent member... Is this the right place for Radian queries!? Please move or redirect if required.... Currently riding a 2010 Triumph Tiger 1050....and enjoy tinkering....will happily take on brakes, bearings, seals, headers etc... but... have had my "head turned" by a lovely imported 1988(?) Radian... Something I can tinker with at my leisure etc. Ride around the back roads of Oxfordshire....at the speed limit...looking cool at the lights (well, as cool as a middle aged over weight man can look)! My question is/are - am I in for a world of pain with a Radian? Are spares hard to come by? Is content (online) for help and advice hard to come by? Are they a really poorly built bike with loads of issues, or "bullet proof" as much as any bike can be? All help, advice, opinions etc welcome! TIA!!

Hello, Newbie here....thanks for allowing me in. Currently riding a Tiger 1050...but have had my head turned by a Radian! So...i am all joined up here and will be asking for advice in the appropriate thread in a bit! See you around!

OIC...

Looking for a chrome rear luggage rack, any help appreciated

BI U

I have enough information to convince me it’s not stolen. To be fair the HPI covers everything like that and the report says “never reported stolen” I’ll try my local police station when I’m free. Not reported stolen under both police and insurance on the hpi Thanks for the reply. Been a while since I’ve been on the forums. I’ve forgotten the whole etiquette

Frankly, I'd start by taking it to the police (BEFORE you spend any more money on it) and ask them if it's nicked and work from there...

Hi all, I’m new to this site and hope someone can help me.I have recently bought myself a 1995 xj600s (UK) diversion.Unfortunately it seems the 17digit vin sticker has been removed due to unknown reasons, the only number I have left is the riveted on plate and stamped 9 digit on the frame.I’ve done a hpi and matched the last 5 digits to the current frame number which I believe is a good start.I need the 17digit version for applying for a new logbook as the previous owner never received it when he bought the bike.Everything so far looks legit based on the hpi; I have tried but to no avail created a matching 17 vin from the 9Long question short is it possible to convert the 9 digit to 17?The 9 digit is 4BR-212432, colour is VDBM,It says 4BRA-050 on a sticker on the frame.I really hope someone can help.Thanks in advance, Morgan PS - I have posted this in xj riders forum, but that site is being closed and don’t recon I will get much response Not sure what happened to the text there

A carb problem. 1st, on the outside of the carb there will be a Philips screw with a big visible spring around it, this is an air mixture screw, turning it left or right will up and down the idle of the bike by really small amounts. Turn it right by 1/4 a turn and wait a min for the bike to react, if the revs rise a little without the bike being too reved up, it should idle. If it dies straight away try turning to the left 1/4 turn and wait for a reaction. Always remember where the screw was set at before you start turning it. If this doesn't make the bike idle probably you will have to clean the carb. Inside the carb there are 3 jets you have to clean spotless,,,, idle jet,,,,pilot jet,,,,and main jet. Obviously the idle jet is for idling and starting,,,,pilot jet is for throttle from idle to nearly 1/2 throttle and main jet is from half to full throttle. This is a rough explanation but that's what there for. Every bit of inside the carb needs to be really clean. The fact your bike dies coming to a stop, then hard to start, then won't take throttle to let you pull away tells me it's your jets BUT it's definitely worth a try first with the air screw, you might get lucky,,,,, maybe it was never adjusted from factory settings and after all the years it needs to be tweaked. Google carb cleaning before you touch the card and it's delicate setting Best of luck

Ok, I found it, we'll see if I did it all right! lol

Do we not have somewhere to sell stuff? Or am I just missing it? lol

Not a mechanic but... 1/ What RPM does it idle at when warm? 2/ Does it have a steady idle when warm? 3/ Does the engine run smoothly when warm, or does it surge?

New here so apologies if this is in the wrong place, Around a year ago i bought the above as my first bike and it was occasionally cutting out when going into first or when idling over and i simply blamed myself for being brand new etc etc. However it still does it quite regular and its nearly always when coming to a complete stop then attempting to throttle on and set away. It gets around a quarter turn on the throttle and dies, It also takes a number of attempts to start up again and its not unknown for it to take a good 10-15 seconds before it will let me select a gear and pull away without dying (this is even when the engines hot after running for a good deal of time, not ideal when on a busy 2 lane roundabout and I'm sat there like a lemon cursing the 9 hells) Even when its idling if i don't apply any revs it will die when in neutral and sat still (although I'm not sure if this is simply the age of the bike and a common fault) Throttle and clutch cable have been adjusted, Passed an MOT a few weeks back and only ever uses Super unleaded petrol. I was thinking perhaps the carb needs a good clean out but being new I'm guessing. Any help is appreciated TIA

Looks solid! Nice bike...

Got 'er taxed and on the insurance . Few bits of cosmetic attention to sort .

Nice! Can you post a picture of where the wires come out? Neither your pics nor the official pics show any wires! lol

{{if $formValue}} {$value} {{endif}} Like a disgruntled polar bear, I returned home from a ride yesterday, my fingers numbed from the icy wind. That’s when these saviours clad in dust and spiderwebs caught my attention. I set about installing them on my loyal steed, the MT09, faster than you can say "frostbite". Now, I had been told that the Whites grips were akin to holding on to the molten core of the Earth itself. "Nonsense," I scoffed. Imagine my surprise when they turned out to be as warm as a hearty handshake from a Yeti. No clunky control box in sight, either! And let's not forget the built-in off switch for low battery situations, which I thought was a nice touch. It's as if the grips whisper, "We care about you and your battery life". Installation My installation process? Oh, it was pure poetry in motion... in reverse. To anyone reading this, I recommend checking if your grips work before putting your bike under the surgical knife. Why? Because it's always fun to install everything before realizing, "Oh, I should probably check if this thing works". Cue nervous laughter. And now, dear readers, for an anecdote that you might find amusing. As I reassembled my trusted steed, carefully fitting the tank and side panels back, a sudden delivery at my door caught my attention. Now, who can resist the magnetic pull of a package arriving? Certainly not yours truly. Thus, I got side-tracked, and by the time I returned to my bike, I'd completely forgotten about the fuel cables. There I was, looking at my beautifully reassembled MT09, only to have an 'Oh no!' moment of realization that the fuel cables were still disconnected. If you've ever prepared a cup of coffee and then forgotten to actually drink it, you'll understand the feeling. Newer Yamaha MT09s, like mine, come pre-wired for heated grips. Yet, you'll still need a harness adapter unless you're a rebel like me, and decide to wire them directly to the battery. This does mean saying a brief 'hello' to your fuel tank though, as it has to be removed for direct installation. For easier access, you can connect just behind the left side panel if you opt for the harness adapter. Do remember to tuck your wires snugly under the airbox top bolt, making sure they're not squished like a pancake. Operation Moving on to operation, the left grip sports the control button, a simple device that guides you through different heat settings like a tour guide through a museum - 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, and 100%. Each setting has its own charming light color, running the spectrum from icy blue to fiery red like a chameleon basking under a heat lamp. A bonus feature, my dear readers, is the option to turn off the grips from any level by merely pressing the button for three seconds. What's even cooler, or hotter in this case, is that they remember your previous setting. So, when you turn them back on with a similar 3-second press, they light up at the same level as before, showing off their perfect memory skills. The package also provides a 4A fuse and super glue, the real heroes behind the scenes, ensuring that your installation is as secure and safe as can be. Summary In summary, Whites heated grips may not be the best fit for the owners of gargantuan mitts (I’m looking at you, André the Giant). But for the rest of us mere mortals, they offer a cozy embrace in the frigid weather, a great price, OEM appearance, and five heat levels. All in all, they're hot stuff, in every sense of the word! Now, don't get me wrong, they're not perfect. For instance, why does the power cable come out the front of the left-hand grip? I’d rather it snuck out the rear, a little discretion never hurt anybody! The kit also didn't include any tie wraps or a ring connector for the power side, causing me to employ some good old-fashioned "MacGyvering". Features: Multicolour LED: Indicate the current selected heat setting with a colourful display. 5 Levels of Heating: Perfect for adjusting to any climate conditions. Integrated Heat Control Switch: Retain OEM look with no need for an extra control panel. ‘Plug & Play’ Wiring Connection: Hassle-free setup with an in-line fuse for electrical circuit protection. Low Battery Voltage Protection: Thoughtful feature that shuts off the heated grips to avoid battery drain. Direct Connect to Battery: Allows for a more streamlined installation process. Pros: Integrated Controls: Avoid the clutter of a separate control box. Good Price: Won't burn a hole in your pocket. OEM Appearance: A seamless blend with your bike's original look. Five Heat Levels: Offers excellent flexibility to meet your warming needs. Quick Warm-Up: Brings your hands from icicle to toasty in a flash. Cons: Awkward Cable Positioning: Power cable emerging from the front of the left grip isn't the most convenient design. Missing Accessories: Kit lacks ring connector and tie wraps, essential components for a clean installation. Limited Grip Space: Those with larger hands might find the grips a bit restricting. TLDR: In conclusion, the Whites heated grips prove themselves to be a worthy addition to your two-wheeled chariot. They bring together functionality, style, and affordability in a neat, warmth-delivering package. They're like a pair of mittens, constantly ready to soothe your hands with their balmy embrace on those frosty rides. While they're not without their quirks—the unusual power cable position and the absence of certain accessories in the kit—they offer more than enough virtues to make up for these slight shortcomings. After all, it's hard to stay mad at something that warms you up so effectively. So, whether you're a seasoned rider battling icy winds on early morning commutes, or just someone who appreciates the finer things in life like not having numb fingers, Whites heated grips are an investment your hands will thank you for. Bottom line: If you want warmth, convenience, and an OEM appearance all wrapped up in one product, then these grips are worth a firm handshake...or better yet, a firm grip. View full news

You just need to find a 3rd party replacement dial and swap it out.

Swingarm removal/fitting shouldn't be difficult. You just need good bearings... As for the rest, not a clue!

Hi, Next week i have a mk1 arriving and was wondering how hard (or even if its possible) to fit a mk3's swingarm? And a extra question: are there any exhausts, engines, cilinder kits that fit plug and play (or with slight mods) into the mk1 frame/block (from another bike etc). thomas

Many thanks. Have 3 of these. They work but don't look great. Thinking of buying an XT350 mph speedo. It will fit as share the 21 inch wheel with the DT but still not as good as the original. Cheers