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- Yesterday
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Welcome in Mark. Hope you enjoy your time here and find it useful and enjoyable. Cheers.
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Hi Mark, i think that the DVLA have probably given you the info you need. I would think that if the numbers are already linked to a Reg number, it will pop up when they go through the process to give a registration number for the bike you have. If it's not been registered before and if you don't have the necessary dating certificate/information, then you'll probably end up with a Q Reg plate. You probably won't lose out either way, unless your plan is to restore the bike and sell it for a profit - but the issue with that, is that even in pristine condition, a YB 100 won't be worth much, so a profit on selling is unlikely any way. if you really just want to restore it and ride it, go ahead, get the MOT and take a chance on the DVLA. One more old Yamaha back on the roads would be reward enough for me 😀
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vr46 changed their profile photo
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Ysmael Rei Sabilona Ofalsa changed their profile photo
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Aris Motard changed their profile photo
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Log into postimage.org Once you have uploaded picture click on hotlink for forums and copy url paste in here sometimes you have to remove the s in both https, sometimes you don't
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Just burn the fekker, in the end thats what you'll want to do anyway..................... Sorry mate, I had an xs250cw back in 1981 and I'm still hurting
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aldeen changed their profile photo
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I was given a YB100 years ago as part of a thanks for a fabricating job i done for a friend of mine, it stood in bits in his garage for years before he gave it to me, he says it is not stolen, he said he never registered it as it was in bits when he got it and meant to restore it but just never found the time, i have no documents, no number plates. BUT I DO HAVE THE FRAME AND ENGINE NUMBERS and was told it had 2 previous owners, can anyone help or advise me if i can track down its original number plate as i hope to re-register and restore it for my son, i have spoken to the DVLA, they told me i have to rebuild it first, photograph it and submit all the identification numbers i have, i am willing to do this but don't want to spend money on rebuilding it first if for some reason i cant register it, can someone advise me on what to do, IT IS NOT STOLEN as i am more than willing to submit the frame and engine numbers as that's all i have concerning the bikes I.D. Many thanks Mark (the Sparrow)
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With any luck Slice I’ll be at the back on 400 beleave it or not, I’ve had since 1982 & never dropped it. come close a few times though!
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Hi All, I'm Mark from Kent, i'm new on here so apologies up front if i post in the wrong place
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JamieThomasGreen changed their profile photo
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DT Babu changed their profile photo
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scubabiker changed their profile photo
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I'm having the same issue as I need to replace the horn switch. Did you manage to get it off in the end?
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AndyT joined the community
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Com on...no one use that kind of bike?
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Louie Andrew Agbada changed their profile photo
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junglecat changed their profile photo
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I don't know about production numbers, there wasn't millions of them. The DT range came out in the late 60's/ early 70's and the 'A' suffix was at the begining of the range of that particular model. ie. 'A' then 'B' and so on. Yours is a '73 so that would keep within expectations. Bear in mind also that each CC would have had its own range....DT50A DT175A, DT250A, etc etc. There might have even been a DT250 followed by the 'A' and then the 'B'. Each year or thereabouts an updated/modified version would come out and another letter added. Back in the 70's all manufactures, especially the japanese manufactures, were making leaps and bounds in a very short space of time, although many models sold in large numbers, some didn't, but it wasn't long before it was superseded by the next machine anyway!. The market was rich and plentiful with all us 'babyboomers' buying bikes!! You just have to take into consideration what was happening all around (the World) at that time.
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So, Is it a less produced option, or just another DT, like usual?
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And we will all be there with the cameras running this time Tommy..!
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You may not have noticed but this thread is 8 years old. Try setting up another NEW thread in the Workshop section. Right after saying Hello in the new members section (hint).
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Therese Asistin Tacata changed their profile photo
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Cable's fine, slides close correctly, I've had enough, at my age life's to short to waste on this. I will put it on classifieds for any member here before it goes on the bay.
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Hi there, I think you might be over thinking it! Generally it doesn't stand for anything! Naming conventions are just part of the manufactures plans and future plans. We'll call the first one A then B and the next C and so on. Occasionally some bright spark comes up with a gimmick and says let's call something MX which could be for Moto Cross "M X" but this is not common by any means! The very first Ford car was the Model T, However, after its success Ford launched the Model A and then the B and so on but it never stood for anything. it's not like an Android OS naming convention!! On the otherhand the manufactures rarely call something a "Mark1" or "Mark 2" of their product. It normally starts off just as a name and then when the next version comes out it gets dubbed by the media/public "the Mark2" when it comes to differentiate it. Then, by default, the first model becomes the "Mark1". I can assure you Ford never launched the Ford Cortina in the early 60s as a Mark 1. It was just a Ford Cortina! In fact when the replacement got launched, that too was a Ford Cortina. it was not badged as a Mark 2 on it's bodyshell. Advertising and Marketing coined the Mark names thereafter to help identify it. (I guess some of you reading this might wonder what a Ford Cortina is!......) Hope this helps, PS if you're going to stick around, pop over to the new members section and post a little introduction about yourself and you'll meet a few other members.
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Have you ruled out the throttle cable? Disconnect it at the carb and manually operate the throttle at the carb. Does it still have trouble returning to idle? At least that way it would rule out the cable completely. It doesn't rule out the throttle slide , just the cable.
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Thanks so much for your reply, it is so frustrating, I have checked over & over all the points you raised, timing, a/r system etc.. Just at a loss now, back to the drawing board. Regards
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It's not something simple like the throttle slide sticking and not returning to its idle position is it? or the cable binding at a 'hot spot'? just a thought!
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Very frustrating for you indeed. Bear in mind the bottom line is it's likely to be either fuel/air or timing. That's all it can be. Afterall it's only a collection of moving parts which do nothing until they are moving! Effort is required to get them going and fuel/air and timing keep them going until you turn it off by stopping. Simplistic view yes but in essence that's all it is!! Having said that my ramblings here might help guide you ......or not! Fuel/air mixture: making it lean or rich effects speed and whilst the carb is set up to deliver that correct mixture leaks on the induction side can screw it up too. When things get hot they expand so what's air tight when cold can get exposed when hot!, and conversely the same happens when cold. Leaks occur when cold making it difficult to start until hot when the expansion swells and everything closes! Which is why it becomes difficult to trace any faults! You test when cold only to reveal the problem when hot OR you test when hot and miss it when it was cold.The same Tests need to be done both hot and cold. Checking for air leaks is tricky, you can't hear them like an air leak on a punctured tyre. Mix up some washing up liquid in warm water making it as bubbly as possible (cold water doesnt make bubbles so well) then with a 1/2 inch paint brush paint it quickly around any joints of the induction side, paying attention to any rubber connector, they can leak at the interface or anywhere along its rubber length. Paint it on around the head gasket and on two strokes, especially around the base gaskets of the engine. Work quickly because the heat of the engine will rapidly evaporate it all even more so when hot. Listen out for changes in the engine speed not so much for the sound of air leaks although you get a nice reaction in the bubbles when you stumble across the leak. And before anyone says don't spread soapy water around it could get in the engine, it's likely to be a pin hole not a bloody great crack! Timing: A collection of bits which controls the high voltage to ignite the aforementioned fuel air mixture! Opening contacts too big or too small effects the timing and a few thousands of an inch can change it dramatically as many of you old dinosaurs like me will know. Equally wear and tear can also play it's part and have the same effect. Points should be checked when cold because when hot everything expands and the reading might not be so accurate. Equally when hot, things can stick! and also stop things working efficiently, don't spread it all in grease thinking you're making things better; it could have the opposite effect. Minimal oil works best here. One area often neglected is any spring loaded advance and retard mechanism found behind the contact sets. The goveners (weights on springs) move with the engine speed and advance the ignition automatically and can stick when hot, especially when covered in grease and crap over time. Pay particular attention to keeping these clean and maintained especially the pivot points. If it all sticks here it may take a little time for the springs to pull everything back and return the timing to normal. Replace the springs for example if they are suspected to be worn (springs do wear out!) Some vehicles have a vacuum mechanism attached to the goveners( I'm talking old classic cars here)but these are connected to the carb which influences the fuel/air mixture. Leaks and blockages here will also effect the performance. You might already know a lot of this but there again it might help others who stumble on this thread in the distant future! Hopefully of some help.
- Last week
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Wouldn’t be a show without punch I’ll be there
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I have a older Yamaha DT250A. I don't know what the A means. It doesn't run, and any other forums I've checked out haven't been of any help. I'm just trying to identify what it is do limit my budget on a restoration. (What does the A in DT250A mean?)
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CalamariSquad joined the community
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@XS-Time Hi there! I'm glad I finally found somebody with the same problem! I own a 1995 XJR400R. The bearings in my XJR's connecting rods are worn out. The problerm is, from use, the stamp numbers have faded out. Just like you, I need the stamp numbers on the connecting rods to find the correct size, color and part number of the bearings. The only manual I own is one in Japanese as the XJR400R is too rare and another one from an XJR1300. I don't know how to even begin looking, if nothing on the con rod gives me a clue.
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Carbs have been ultrasonic cleaned repeatedly with heat and carb. solution, no difference. timing re-checked, auto advance checked. Any more suggestions guys?. Thanks
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XJR - Time joined the community
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Dannyrxs1987quinn1996 joined the community
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No. I use other battery for starter and other for the rest. Same symptoms
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markallen24 joined the community
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I had a quick look and it seems your right, only fairings for earlier versions of your bike seem to be available. There were a few for the 2016 variant but still not your year, I bet it's cos most folks are content with a "new" supplied fairing and very few want to change it this early in the owning process. But if your determined to do it then contact Yamaha direct in the UK and ask them if an earlier version will fit, my gut feeling is probably it will but it's a shit load of money to shell out till you can say for certain. Try here for Yam contact details. https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/gb/en/contact/
