Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Cynic

  1. Taking the bus or going actually on the bike?
  2. Well they let me book the Friday off so will run up then.
  3. Fuses dont save this kind of cock up, quarter of an amp will kill an ecu if its in the wrong place, could have fried every battery fed electronic device on the bike.
  4. That may well have been a very expensive mistake, electrics are quite often polarity sensitive. I made the same mistake on our caravan and had to replace the tv and the electrical circuit board in the fridge. Five hundred quidsworth for the sake of not checking.
  5. As a 2 stroke man john you should ride a propperly sorted vmax, crazy. Needs to be a good one though, lot more posers than do ers out there.
  6. You have gone from peak torque/peak revs to peak torque no revs. You need to watch the taco for a bit, revving a v twin hard will just send your fingers numb. Peak power is around 8 and peak torque around 7k rpm so in theory your sweet spot for gear changing will be around 7 to 8k. Your ears will argue with you because they are used to 20 valves and 4 pistons rattling around (figuratively they do make noise). Now you have 8 valves and 2 pistons so half the noise and exhaust note. Your head will be telling you to change at ? probably 16k. Not being sarky your waiting for the normal resonance of the ace at maybe 8 or 9k if your pushing. Dont worry about big handfuls of low rpm throttle either its where a v twin thrives, from as low as 3 k wang the throttle open and she will drive, the chunder ace would likely bog till it gets its stride. Short answer you need to turn your riding upside down, low rpm drive is the key. Your all finished and ready to have a cuppa before the ace would be getting on the cam properly. And, i have seen it first hand, those v twin suzuki's are a looooong way from slow, once you sus the riding style you will rip the commute apart.
  7. Ugly mess to sort out. Dont know a great deal about these little bikes myself. Deliberately bought a carb'd bike for my daughter because i knew how to fix it. I know that doesent help your situation, i recall hearing that the Fi bikes have different cam timing and compression ratio's to get the best from the precise nature of the Fi so you could well be flogging a dead horse. Your safest and most guaranteed option would be to pick up a cat c or similar that you can tear apart for the engine and knowing you will have all the aux parts you need. Would love to tell you more but don't know, Fi is a blackhole i have never bothered with.
  8. Fowlers of bristol, their website has all sorts of technical drawings and parts lists.
  9. I will tag along Andy, might get one or two to come up with me. Prob best to keep it informal.
  10. Cynic

    Breaking fj1200

    Time Left: 11 days and 21 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Fj1200, 91, non abs, bodywork in really good condition for age except the normal missing lugs on the front muddy, tank is solid, actually have complete bike in bits. Have v5. Immaculate neta exhaust. Came with a vmax in similar state but have neither the space nor the inclination to do anything with the fj. Want it gone, make me an offer.

    300.00 GBP

  11. Yep, sounds like perm choke. May not need full choke in the summer but should always need a little from stone cold.
  12. Providing i can get the time off due to the now critical hgv driver shortage, im up for it, bike is far better this year too. Keilder is a trek, looking at 5hrs min if i go the straightest fastest route stopping for nothing but fuel.
  13. Was there anything showing on the plugs, excessively wet or black. Ig is easier to check than carbs but ultimately it sounds like you need to give the carbs a good clean. Your coming off choke at a mile or so as the engine gets up to temp and as she wants a leaner mixture it sounds like she isnt getting it and chokes out.
  14. Cynic


    It's got ypvs in dirty great letters on a fitting on the right hand side of the engine. If you have a learner legal (haha) model it may just have what looks like a bolt sticking out of the rhs of the barrel. Either way Google mk1 and mk 3 rd125lc. The mk3 had ypvs, the mk1 didn't. Look at the barrels on the engine. The difference is obvious.
  15. I cannot find tx500 stuff, but its apparently pretty much early xs500 so i was looking at the 75 xs500 which looks to have the same kickstart mech as most yams running on the clutch basket ring gear. Cannot find anything to confirm that though, could be a longer shaft running on one of the gearbox idlers maybe but that seems a lot of hassle The starter motor runs a chain to a starter clutch that turns the crank, looks identical to my vmax. Spent far too long wondering about it now.
  16. Ah so the starter runs through the gearbox. Schematics were a bit vague. Showed the kicker and the starter separately. Could be starter related then?
  17. Half a turn and stops? So what happens if you put it in gear and turn the rear wheel. With the clutch fully stripped as that centre should spin freely in neutral. Also, i dont get how messing with the clutch affects the kick start, the crank and clutch basket are constant mesh, the kickstart drives the outer ring of the basket. You could take the clutch pressure plate, friction and steel plates out entirely and she would still start on the kicker.
  18. That made me chuckle, the 'plug colour' does not actually mean the spark, although its nice to know its a strong blue spark. The plug colour check is actually referring to the electrode on the plug its self. White deposits and red specs on the electrode point to lean mixture and/or bag ignition timing. Ideally a light coffee brown is the ideal with black and sooty or black and oily being bad options obviously. Good news is that 100cc bikes are generally ridden hard (not a lot else to do with 10hp) so a plug chop (checking colour) is quite a good guide to engine running. It does throw the possible issue onto the carb, if the carb needs cleaning and some gunk has got somewhere it should not?
  19. So if you take the plain and friction plates out of the clutch does the inner and outer basket move ok, the outer should move with the crank, the inner should spin freely in neutral and you should be able to drive it turning the rear wheel at different speeds depending on gear.
  20. Nope, most yam 2 strokes generate their own ignition power, you could chuck the battery in the bin and it would run fine. May well blow every bulb on the way back mind.
  21. You need to change the voltage regulator not the rectifier. Dont spend a bloody fortune on one either, its the same regulator on a vast list of yams, something like this:- UNIVERSAL 6 Volt Voltage Regulator Fits All 1968 - 1983 Yamaha Enduro Models | eBay Will do fine.
  22. With the miles you ride you will notice a difference, though if i may? from my neighbours experience, there is a mileage limit on those carbon wheels. He trained on alloy rims and raced on carbons.
  23. What?, no you cannot do without it. it takes the tightening torque of the spindle, without it you put a massive load directly onto the bearings and the wheel will never tighten properly. Dangerous, nigh on suicidal. Its in a lot more than the thunderace, the yzf 750, fzr600 xjr1300, its a good list. 35 quid new from fowlers.
  24. I had something similar when I used an emergency circlip fix (read bodge I was 17) on a gp100. The jet needle was lose and could move and made the bike do some odd things.
  25. Some know already but , well sometimes things feel like there is a higher order. On the vmax forum there was a fellow selling a set of carbon dymag wheels, i saw the advert September last year time but had neither the money or the need at the time. Fast forward, months of covid lock up, (i keep a little slush fund to pay for my biking which has just gone up through last year). Then the drive hub shat its self and the crap that followed. Well i stumbled back across the wheel add, no comments on the post, wheels had low miles, maybe a couple of thou. With tyres and such and with them being cheap, for dymags, i sent a message on the off chance. Well f me, he still had them, he was waiting for the lockdown to end to ebay them. Sold. Bugger me if i didn't sell the old wheels the same day for 300 quid, flogging some other bits that came with the wheels (short shocks and such). Made total cost to me for a pair of carbon dymags around £600. Bloody amazing to ride on, it really is something of an experience, the lack of rotating mass and the difference it makes to the bike. Took it for a proper 100 mile blat yesterday and it was only just as i was getting home that my head was starting to figure out how to ride with them. Pegs dragging the roundabouts heading back to the village, plenty of tyre left so frame bolts are next . Look killer too.
  • Create New...