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Cynic

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Everything posted by Cynic

  1. That is probably your biggest problem. The DT has a nasty effect on its ebay values. parts are hoarded or sold piecemeal. Literally by the nut and bolt by some arseholes, while quoting how rare they are. A lot of the parts are not that rare but may be expensive. Tanks and side panels are a worry, side panels go missing and tanks rot. Clocks too if damaged, as long as your hubs are good the wheels will not be an issue. Likewise the frame is strong and unlikely to need more than cleaning up once stripped, just about all the engine parts except the obvious things like engine cases are available from Fowlers in Bristol. You can waste time going elsewhere but these days I find there is little point. (I have a DT175 and aTDR250, fowlers is my primary goto for parts for both). You picked a good one to build, no electronic rubbish to tip you up either.
  2. Should really start a fresh thread of your own, tagging onto a long dead line will get little response.
  3. What are they going on, the Suzuki?
  4. Goes on behind the lower piston ring, honestly I don't know what it does, seen it a few times on 2 strokes I have blown u...… er serviced! over the years. Bit of extra spring maybe, thermal gap, dunno. The opposite extreme on the daughters scoot, that only has one piston ring.
  5. Cynic

    Bollocks, ahh well

    Hmm, when I said expensive bits I didn't realise quite how far someone had taken it. This was a monster once. If only the last moron knew what he had. There is a good 7 to 800 quidsworth of go go goodies on this thing, the pipe is 200quid (for a scoot that's juicy) full circle all steel crank (150+) top end (160) considering a stock pot from the bay of evil is 30 quid with gaskets. Suitable crank bearings are c4 rated 20000rpm with fibre cages. Plus the uprated variator and clutch. All from the same firm, reading the technical its supposed to run fully synth premix (stock pump cannot cope), although in normal road work I think it will do, and a stronger drive belt Done right this thing is a rocket, a proper bullet. Brakes are monster too, front caliper is from the 125 (bigger caliper same disk). Considering the potential of this thing how did the morons who had it let it fall so far, it would have had god like status when I was 16. Yes I will be dialing the throttle back restricting the carb slide for her to get her early wobbles done with. The stock carb does hold it back. The blurb recommends a 24mm for all round performance or, get this a 28mm for racing.
  6. Don't know about anybody else but I have clocked up a few miles this winter. I have done my time being a full time motorcyclist and much as people may say otherwise, for me, fuck that!. My car is cheaper, quicker (yes if you include putting all your gear on, unlocking the garage, then the bike etc) and warm and dry. But I have been out using the bike. Bloody good it feels too. Its cold granted but the roads on the whole of late have been salt free and relatively clear of the usual winter slime. Even some sunshine. I know it cant last and Feb will blast us, or March for a late frosting who knows. But for now, yay.
  7. Cynic

    Bollocks, ahh well

    That's the thing drewps, this already HAS the expensive bits. Need to change the crank seals and that defacto means the bearings too. Would you believe the mag side seal had literally come out of its seat.when I pulled the rotor the seal fell onto the bench. I can only assume it was blown out by high compression of the sports piston kit, (one ring high comp). It already has the piston and head, the pipe etc. A bloody good clean and removing all the teenage balls ups. Like airline for coolant pipes, ???. Amazing how few bodywork fixings you actually need. Couple of hours and it was a big pile of bits, all came apart easy too, surprisingly no seized bolts etc. Granted one or two had me reaching for the plussgas but even the engine mounting bolt (as notorious as the dt one) slid straight out. Cannot argue can I. Whats good for the goose etc. Daughter number 2 did say she got serious cool points being dropped off on the max the other day, that would be the shy retiring type with matt black lid with electric blue pinstriping and ghost skulls..
  8. Cynic

    Bollocks, ahh well

    Not sure she needs the theory, doesent the car theory test count.
  9. Cynic

    Bollocks, ahh well

    Maybe, no1 daughter is in Shefield doing psychology. Maybe in the summer break, we might pay for her to do one of those week courses for her birthday. She only wants to ride my cb175 so the licence restrictions from her age don't matter.
  10. Cynic

    Bollocks, ahh well

    I thought I had bought a scoot for the daughter, needing nothing more than some spit and polish and maybe a mild de restrict went to collect. Nope sold to somebody else, sob story of forgot/my partner sold it….. Anyway, calmed down after that and now have an Aprilia sr50(ish), does have an 'oversize' piston. Bike is ok in the main. The engine.....hmmm spanners are getting dirty, really dirty. I should not be surprised at the state of learner bikes but I don't recall any of 'us' in my day doing some of the stupid shit you see on these scooters. Drive belt on backwards, the arrows are clear enough to see. No starter gear, just gone, removed, these things only start on the kick as a get you home (cos its hassle). Air line used as fuel pipe, coolant pipe and vac line, It was a dead duck (cheap) and has a bad crank seal so the motor has come apart, still trying to split the cases. Bit of a pain, think heat will help, but it has got some good proper sports parts in there and will be a rocketship with the daughter on it. Things like the coolant came out clean as a whistle and aside from being dirty all the fluids are good (little gearbox at the rear) and nothing seized up. Only stumble is the cases hanging. Stupid sidebar to splitting the cases, the cost of the proper tool to split the cases cost very little more than buying replacement cases from ebay. Actually fun to work on and when you get into them there is some very clever thinking to the design. Looks like were keeping it too as the wife fancies using it for work once daughter number 2 has passed through it.
  11. Any coolant suitable for aluminium engines will do if your really stuck. Use as per the bottle. You need to figure out where the coolant has gone too.
  12. Bet your arse it's not a run. Misspent youth making sure of that.
  13. Yep, the chilly willy run from Billing garden centre. Weather looking really good so will be loads there. Raising money for the air ambulance. 50 or so miles round Northants and into Bedfordshire a little. Bloody freezing last year.
  14. It still doesent compute in my mind slice but the last time I saw the inside of a class room as a student Maggie had the big chair at no10. Paul and Merv have far more current (geddit) technical knowledge and I know when to shut up.
  15. So why have a fuse block with 5a 10 a and 20 a fuses, by that line with 30a of load why do the fuses not pop. The current in the wiring of my house should be the same as the secondary of the step down transformer that feeds my estate then? I know im 20 years, er more like 30 out of date on the math, I just cant see it.
  16. Yesssss forum discussion. Not been one of these for ages. The way i see it current is the measure of energy, the energy after the above example has to be less due to the energy expended as heat. One side of the heated grips will have less energy than the other, incoming side from the action of heating needing energy. My theoretical grips have 96watts, that's work done, power, current drawn and radiated as heat. If the output from the grips was the same as the incoming that's grips heated without using any energy. How does volt drop figure due to load and resistance. If you powered a light bulb through 10 miles of lighting flex there would not be enough energy left to light the bulb. Newton versus Kirchhoff. Kirchhoff is talking about a very specific point in a circuit. Not the whole circuit including load and losses. Purely on experience switching post load needs less capacity and results in smaller switches being needed.
  17. Electrical principles mate, its bad on AC systems, well blody lethal really. On DC automotive systems it reduces the load on the switch and reduces voltage loss to the device your switching as well as reducing arcing within the switch. Switch a 10A dc load (heated gips say) on the live side your switching a 10A resistive load. Switch it neutral side and maybe 8 A have been burned up doing the heating so you only need a switch capable of 2A load to switch 10A, its not that literal but that's the logic to it.
  18. Use the horn wiring, just put a relay where the horn still is or where you can conveniently access the connections from the loom somewhere behind the fairing. Fit the relay here, using said relay you can have either new or old depending on switching, a switch you can put wherever aesthetics or need suggest. The default position (non energised) leaves you bike in stock config. That way if the new stuff fails you always have the horn, (yep deliberate). From that point just wire up your super horns with whatever magic gets the extra voltage? Using the brake light circuit to feed high power horns is not a good idea, if your hitting the horn. You are most likely braking, that means full load on that circuit plus whatever the horns pull. You may lose the horn when you need it most...… (?) …. Er. Fresh line from the battery, or pick up on a non essential. Heated grips? Phone charger?. Lose those in a critical moment it makes no odds.
  19. No, there is no negative. The led unit will have a wire for the brake, a wire for the running light and an earth. You are thinking house wiring, on a bike this is live and earth, no negative (think negative is earth if it helps to understand it)
  20. Same here run em up, going out on the max tomorrow if the weather stays as is.
  21. Sounds like you have your wires crossed. You have proved the unit works, the bike worked before you pulled it apart so the fault is most certainly the bit in-between. My guess, you have mixed up or miss read the wires. It sounds to me like you have an earth that you think is a live. So you have it wired up as Unit Wiring/Bike SL Earth Br Br Earth SL I don't imagine the unit has the most complex of internal systems but this way the light would come on for the (B)rake light but not for the side(SL)light as the unit is using the sidelight circuit to earth its self. Then when you swap the connections for the sidelight, the unit will use the brake light circuit as earth. I hope that is clear?
  22. There must be a wire or link of some kind. The unit must have a way of knowing when the lights are on and then when the brakes are on.
  23. Cynic

    DT 125 LC derestrict

    I would be surprised if a 125lc is still stock at over 30 years old, hell chasing 40 years old. They were never actually restricted as such and should have solid poke stock, (around 14-15hp in good nick) borderline legal for L plates these days. If your just after fast why not go for a later DT, the early powervalve bikes are best if you can find one.
  24. Following Drewp's line.. Feliz navidad y prospero ano nuevo.
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