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78 Yamaha XS500 C OEM Chain Guard 1A8-22310-00-00 MY124 | eBay E-Bay and Google are your friends... P.S. You wrote: 1A8-22310-00-00 It should have been: 1A8-22310-00

I finally found a downloadable service manual that covers the 1995 with the KYB USD fork and figured out how to free the spring from the damper rod. Of course it requires a special tool that can easily be improvised with some plastic pipe and a washer but since the seals can easily be replaced without disturbing the spring, I decided to simply wash everything with Maxxis Suspension cleaner and call it good. Rather than using air space to measure oil, I used volume. I put in slightly more than 16 US ounces in an effort to stiffen the compression a bit. I also used 15W oil. I won't bore you with all the work, time and money I put into this project but it was a fight at every turn. Now the bike that had been "stored" for 29 years with 162 miles on the odometer, now has 168 miles on it. Tomorrow, much more! https://www.facebook.com/bicycle.repairman.75/

Hey again, just following up as mentioned, bike is now back together and the first run has been had with no issues , ended up having to go with a straight through muffler so it could breathe (and sounds great). Looking forward to many more miles, I must say the power increase is amazing and would highly recommend doing if you have the bike and the time. Some pics....cheers Baz.

Snakebite - yes, have it already insured. Only found this forum once it was already done. Looking forward to ride and enjoy it as much as I can. One thing that really stuck to me was when my instructor said - always ride to your own expertise. Never been on bike before CBT, didn't get CBT done first try either, first experience was pretty groundbreaking for me as I managed to ride ok for most part and then at some point I had brain fart, panicked and ditched it dropping it on me just to finish my gracious manoeuvre off. Hard lesson was learned on first attempt on a bike, second time went a lot better, but boy oh boy I have lots to learn. I hope I will have lots of experiences, lessons and emotions to share with you guys and generations to come.

Two wives decided on a girlie night out. On the way home they needed a pee and nipped into a graveyard. Then they realised that they didn't have any wipes to finish up, so the first one used her knickers, and the second one found a wreath and used that. The next day one husband rang the other and said 'No more girlie nights out, mine came home with no knickers on'. The other said, 'Well if you think that's bad mine came home with a card in her crack that said 'From all of us at the fire station - we'll never forget you.''

Aaah, that would have been good to know earlier... lol The part numbers are different. If they were the same, they would usually have the same part numbers. That said, for £28, go for it... Buy it and see if it fits... Ok, I'm just completely lost now... Exactly which part are you looking for???

Thanks for the comments. I was looking for just the exhaust pipe, not the silencer, so there's no brackets to worry about only its shape and dimensions. Ebay has some of the RX100 pipes under p/n 36LE46110000 and they do look similar being a sort of a shallow L shape with a loose flange fitting to mount to the engine and open where the silencer attaches. Parts drawing sketches of both attached. I should have added that if you click on the drawing, its name will be shown to distinguish between them, although they look the same.

Aaah, you found a cheaper one than I did NEO, but yes, both options are out there, apparently only as a 3rd party item...

Well, the good news is a SissyBar is indeed available for 2000 to 2005 models bad news...not cheap! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374879990826?itmmeta=01HW004KJQAFSN3135SP9XB8RD&hash=item574896b42a:g:egoAAOSw4vNkIWZb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0G8DXxuvcuTkSOjSqvVeE%2BX%2FdCwJp2qK4dG1%2FgE9F%2F4QQ1K%2FWfuIIN7MoaQAgl3UhtSncHbTCbvUOJ3CxMuPe6Lm2fI%2FTlTvx7CbuMXfmsZhVC4EYsPoyTJdA6HVSJi544%2Fldhh007OUXQudEtueUo0CuW6yFSPhUtwNIWJwvdpY4oQ4IOE%2F2Bm%2F8%2FKncij2bFxANNB6c18DvOcSKQDWi8G4jAnZZmMVym7pv2LMAY3HqoMOFoC85qxA6p10cRiP0mX6UclE7ZKMD7mT0euekcc%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7K5koDgYw but now you know what you're looking for!

How about JASO MA2 specification for oil which is intended for clutches that run in oil … I get to answer myself when I found the answers here https://yambits.co.uk/oils_parts_for_yamaha_xs500.html

Have you tried You tube? Lots of XS500 videos, too many for me to view, but I notice this blue one has the same size font on the side panels as your photo of the black one. it maybe a case of going through them as some may have the correct tank but not side panel and visa versa.

get these from image works http://www.bike-stickers.com/homepage.htm

https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/classic-japanese-motorcycles/classic-yamaha-motorcycles/1978-yamaha-xs500e-zmmz14ndzkel/ close

Thanks for the replies. I have the parts catalogue and depending on the colour the part code will be different. The only thing that seems to stay the same is the code stamped on the underside of headlight bowl and as I'm doing a total restoration it doesn't matter to me what colour it is as I will respray it anyway. I have a Yamaha at2 also and that has a code YHA 11 SAE M68 so I was hoping that the missing headlight would have a code of some sort. Thanks for any help Julfra

My first Yamaha was a 1980 XS850 Midnight Special the previous owner had installed lower bars and a bullet fairing. I wish I still had that one. The current project is a 1995 FZR1000 EXUP with 162 miles on it. It was "stored" (neglected) for 28 years. During the year it sat (neglected) in my garage, mice had filled it with dog food and damaged some of the wires. Long story short, the last thing before it's like a new bike is fork seals but I don't have 1995 manual/supplement to tell me the factory air space/oil lever for the KYB USD forks. I assume compressed with springs out. Anyone? Thanks, Danny

Hello everyone, I have been interested in motorcycles and have been riding since I was 12 years old. Not very exciting motorcycles at the start but the highlight came already in 1975 when I bought a 1974 Yamaha LS2. The following year I got my license for light motorcycle and bought my second LS2 and in 1977 it became the RS100 which was a step down from the LS2. There has only been one more Yamaha, XT500 which I bought used in 1987. There have been many motorcycles over the years. Today I have four motorcycles and just bought a XS500D that needs a lot of repairs. Lives with my wife in Lillestrøm Norway and has worked with cars all my life. I'm not very good at English, but today there is help to get

try these guys, check out the tank and side covers https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xs500-1977-1h3-europe-1h228-198e5_model37276/partslist/0038.html

xs500 is a curious bike for sure, I think by the D model the head cracking was sorted

2 stokes need to back pressure to seal the incoming charge. whacking in the fuel via choke is just masking it. you need to carry out a plug chop, to ascertain the correct mixture and have a load of mains and pilot jets to change fuel delivery.

I can't help you with the diagnostics, but, if you've bought it to 'restore' it. Then you might as well change the exhaust for the right one, you're going to have to do it at some point... ALWAYS provide photos/videos!

Hello everyone, Just joined the club to see what goes on with a view to become a full member and thought I would introduce myself. Got my first bike at 17 in 1968, Yamaha C90 and over the years had many yamaha's including 2 fjr1300's, a Diversion 600 and 3 Tracers with the 9GT being the bike I'm now on two and a half years old with almost 18000 miles on it.I also have a Triumph bonneville t100(sorry if that's swearing on this forum) I joined the IAM when I reached 68 years old to see if I was still capable to ride and still riding at 72 so must be doing something right.

Hihi, welcome in! Being a full member is mainly the ability to chat in the extra members only section and getting a discount on your Bikesure insurance... But, considering the low, low price, why the hell not? rofl

If after you have joined the Forums as a Full Member, you find you require your Membership Number, you have TWO options. 1/ Find the confirmation E-Mail you were sent when you joined (the number is on there). 2/ Send a polite PM to Alex (or one of the Moderators) asking for it. We don't live on the Forum and do have lives (and bikes) that take up most of our time, so you could have an answer in minutes or days. If you haven't heard back within a week, feel free to give us another poke.

you need Paul Dawkins contact him here https://www.motorbikeregistrations.co.uk/

Hard jet washing is bad. Too many exposed or semi exposed bearings / joints to blast the grease out of! You can jet wash from a distance to get more of a 'soak' going, but be careful. There's all sorts of cleaning products out there, everyone will have a different opinion on them, you probably have to make your own choices... The big problem with cleaning bikes is all the interesting gaps & cubby holes that all the crap gets into. Young and bendy is the key to cleaning a bike well. When you get old and creaky like me, it gets a LOT harder lol.

I've done a 1986 dt125lc mk2 and fitted a big one full system (fresco) and it works and sounds perfect

Well RaySin, lets see.... Haynes or Clymer are the publishers of workshop manuals , unfortunately It doesn't look like they cover your bike......yet! That's not to say they won't in the future. So pdfs and USB versions of yamaha service manuals are probably all thats available at the moment. Ebay is worth keeping an eye on availability of anything, even if you don't want it!. As regards to Chains, they need to be kept oily, a dry chain will squeak and if it's squeaking you're creating wear! too much oil and it sprays all over the wheels and chrome, and too little it will squeak away. Get into a habit of putting it on, chain spray is probably your best bet, it's easy to do. Unfortunately an oily chain also attracts road dirt and sticks to it, causing grinding, you can't win.!!! Chains don't last forever, so it really is down to regular maintenance. It's worth noting that apart from a dry chain or oily chain, there is another condition that chains can get and that's clicking chains from stiff links, it might be only one link but it gives a unique sound. It also means you've not been doing your maintenance! Chains will often play up after wet weather! The other aspects of chains is that over time they stretch! so you need to move the wheel back a tad and still keep the wheel aligned!! Too slack a chain and it will clatter on the chain guard, or jump a cog!! Too tight and your gearbox and sprockets get put under too much tension leading to more wear!! it's ALL a delicate balancing act!! You'll love it!! As regards to filling her up, don't rely on the auto shut off from the nozzle. Bike tanks are not big so it doesn't take much to fill them up. The best advice regardless, is keep the fuel off the petrol tank otherwise your paintwork will suffer. Careful trigger control is the key and keeping an eye on just inside the tank would be my advice. And as you're a newbie, don't hesitate to pull off some of that blue roll all petrol stations have between pumps, and keep it handy to wipe off any spills or drips quickly. And finally, loud pipes... only you will love them. Everybody else older than you will think you're a nob. .....but we've all been nobs at least once! Enjoy...

That's great, thanks...the wemoto ones look the ticket!

Hi all, new here. I'm looking at buying a Virago DragStar XVS125 from 2002. The photos look good but before I go and see it in person I was wondering if there was anything in particular to look out for on these bikes? Thank you all! TdashJ

You're seriously hoping that TWINSHOCK is going to reply? He last visited the site in 2010 and his post about the luggage rack was in 2009. Good luck with that one bud!

Thanks for raising the profile of the Classifieds guys, it has prompted me to list my SR125 on this site, as well as E-Bay

I was thinking the same thing. edited...

Incidentally, it might not be wise to display your VIN in case some unscrupulous scrote decides to use it to clone another vehicle, given that there are bike thefts galore going on around the world!!! Just edit your VIN to be 1KT XXXXXX ( x= numbers) I appreciate they could randomally put any numbers that just happen to match, but yours are legite numbers registerd with DVLA. Just trying to protect you bud.

Thanks, fixed, there was an error in the CSS. I'm pretty sure there's a way to flip the theme to dark, or used to be. I'll take a look later.

I thought you just fill out the changes form attached to your v5 and send it off?

So like all things I have decided that I'm finally done with my biking, not happy about it but I am just getting to old to do this any more. I have been riding since I was 14 and now at 71 it's time to hang my boots up. Having fallen off more times than I can mention and also having more broken bones over the years than is healthy it's time to walk away. I would like to say to you all may you all live and ride for as long as you can and stay safe out there and if you know anyone who want's a 2001 FJR1300 please let me know. I will bung an advert up on here in the near future so hope to hear from at least one of you if your interested. Good bye all. Martin.

No worries, can never hurt to ask. From what I have gathered in my ever continuing research: 4FU: Higher compression head, Nikasil plated liner, flat piston 3MB: steel liner, more aggressive porting, hole in inlet side of piston for lubing the small end Basically people tend to favour the 4FU but at the end of the day they are about the same. In a turn of events, we MAY have tracked down the original engine and are hoping to get it back next week.

Well, don't forget to come back and let us know how it goes...

Yes... Means exactly what it sounds like... A miss-spent youth, but no stealing! I bought all of them fair & square lol.

Not a clue on reliability, never heard of them before. But E-Bay is your friend most of the time for parts. Past that there's always Yambits : Yambits - Yamaha Parts

Welcome in, I had to google what a Radian was, but looks cool. If you become a full member here, you can get a discount on your insurance from Bikesure...

A carb problem. 1st, on the outside of the carb there will be a Philips screw with a big visible spring around it, this is an air mixture screw, turning it left or right will up and down the idle of the bike by really small amounts. Turn it right by 1/4 a turn and wait a min for the bike to react, if the revs rise a little without the bike being too reved up, it should idle. If it dies straight away try turning to the left 1/4 turn and wait for a reaction. Always remember where the screw was set at before you start turning it. If this doesn't make the bike idle probably you will have to clean the carb. Inside the carb there are 3 jets you have to clean spotless,,,, idle jet,,,,pilot jet,,,,and main jet. Obviously the idle jet is for idling and starting,,,,pilot jet is for throttle from idle to nearly 1/2 throttle and main jet is from half to full throttle. This is a rough explanation but that's what there for. Every bit of inside the carb needs to be really clean. The fact your bike dies coming to a stop, then hard to start, then won't take throttle to let you pull away tells me it's your jets BUT it's definitely worth a try first with the air screw, you might get lucky,,,,, maybe it was never adjusted from factory settings and after all the years it needs to be tweaked. Google carb cleaning before you touch the card and it's delicate setting Best of luck

Hi, I'm Dan. I live in Poole. I currently have a 2002 Thundercat which I've owned for 3 years since returning to 2 wheels after a lengthy lay off! I have just acquired a 2001 Thunderace which I bought from an auction site for not a lot of money. 12,000 miles but I think much UNloved. It starts on the button and runs well. Unfortunately, as I don't want to get wet, (I'm far too old for those shenanigans) I didn't get to ride it for a couple of weeks. However, one Sunday morning, the sun made an appearance so I decided to take it for a little spin. 10 miles later I'm back home and well pleased with the initial run once I'd put some proper air in the tyres! I did notice when back in the garage that the clutch master cylinder bolts were literally hanging out so took the decision there and then to pull it off the road and look at it properly. I can't trust anyone else's handiwork when such a glaring error was made! I've decided to service the machine even though the seller stated that he had done it. I'm also changing all the lines for braided and all the fairing bolts for stainless steel. You should have seen the mish mash that was on it! I am hoping to find some friendly voices on here and maybe a few tips and helpful advice. My only query thus far is about mounting paddock stand bobbins on the swingarm and how they don't go tight all of the way due to the weld on the arm. Will they just be ok wound tight to the weld or do people utilise a spacer such as a split washer underneath? Any replies will be well received. Thanks, Dan

I have both a car and a bike with no fuel gauge. You quickly become good at working out how many miles you will do on a tank and adjusting it conservatively based on driving / riding style !

Yeah, that does look a little rough! And possibly like it's frame has been modified! lol. I like that you're apparently fixing some of it with a hammer though...

You can check out any time you like but you can never leave

I hope this comes out as it so fooking funny. The Yorkshire accent makes this all the better w4POSqOqO2.mp4

its a bad idea m8 ! save ur money and buy a 250cc engine to put in the beast! the crank is a week point in the engine even as a 125! so boring it up to any amount is goin to put more strain on it. the problem is the bottom end of the crank where the conrods connect...its just metal on metal so is slowly grinding down which eventually causes too big a gap between the conrod and crank, this lets the conrod move side to side and knackers up the engine! with it being a 125 its not bad and will last you a fair few years (as long as the oil is good) but with the added "boom" of a re-bore it will wear down a HELL of allot faster! but by all means do it if you want but il be taking bets on how long it will last! and my bet will be 2 weeks ....if your lucky! iv put a honda cbr 125 (2004) in mine, cost about £900 all in all but iv done all the work myself including making custom mounts, air filter, and wiring. its a big job and not one to be taken lightly but i can add a 150cc bore kit to it for about £200 which wont damage the engine. (cause the engine is originally designed to be a 150cc but for the uk market they put a 125cc barrel, piston, and head on it) at the end of the day it will be cheaper (and more practical) to put a new bigger engine in there...rather than spend money on a mod that will not last 2 weeks. try this link My link they have decent engines for sale and the parts are cheep enough that you dont mind if something goes pop. it was my 1st choice for an engine but since i only have a provisional license i wouldnt get value for money (in terms of bhp) im sure if you give them a ring you might be able to get them to fit it all for you! (for a cost of course) but its probably ur best bet.