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NE0

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NE0 last won the day on October 15

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About NE0

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  • Current Bike(s)
    Yamaha DT175MX 1978/9. Honda CB400/4 1975

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  1. NE0

    Restoring an XJ900f Engine

    Hi there, Depends on year but looking on cmsln.com website i found under XJ900F 1989 0.5 oversized pistons (not .05) and the 1991 0.5 piston has the same part number of 58L1163600. they are available to buy. A 1987 xj900F which has a different part number 59L116360000 the Pistons 0.5 are also available at bike-parts-yam.com But I couldnt find .05
  2. NE0

    1975 Yamaha TX500A Questions

    Hi Chris welcome to the world of classic motorcycles! I've just had a look at the website you refer to and find it very similar to cmsnl.com which has all the same parts diagrams and perhaps different spares available. As regards to the details and year of the model, you will often find slight discrepencies of vehicles that were produced pre computer!!! Back in the 70's there was no data being stored on computer! it was all in parts catalogues and micro-fiches. A bike that say was manufactured in late 1974 might well appear in the part catalogues as 1975 model by the time a new parts catalogue had been printed! Today when companies add data to their websites i dare say they are not adding all the original data from these catalogues so there will be an element of 'rounding off'. Most of the times they will be spot on, but you have to allow a year either side with additional checking as part of your format when sourcing spare parts. especially when looking for something which is nearly fifty years old! Your website you use is in the USA so you may have to wait for a fellow member to say where they go for keys and replacement locks. In the meantime, why not pop over to the New members area and just post a brief introduction about yourself and where you are, you may meet some fellow bikers from your neck of the woods who may well help you out in the future. All the best.
  3. NE0

    What is this? It's leaking.

    If it's NOT rattling, then there's no need to reset it!! Yes It is done when cold, I would imagine with the plug missing and the new gasket someone previously has been doing something to it. If the engine runs smoothly and there is no cam chain rattle there's little to be gained by a re-adjustment. Personally, I'd leave well alone, especially as you're not that familiar with motorcycle engines....yet! Put in the new plug and enjoy riding it.
  4. NE0

    What is this? It's leaking.

    It leaks from the centre because it's just a push in plug and it's probably nearly 40 years old! Oil is pumped to the top of the camshafts and runs back down all the open galleys, over the cam chain and back into the sump. Oil also drips from the lowest point so the chances are the gasket the tensioner housing is also shot. The chain tensioner is automatic by the action of the spring. To adjust it, you loosen the side screw, the spring pushes against the tensioner moving it forward taking the slack out of the cam chain and the screw is then retightened. They're not perfect by any means but they do function. N.B Honda 400/4 engines are well known for their "cam chain rattle" even after they've been retightend!! PS. Just re looking at your photo.....it looks like the plug is actually missing! hence the leak! (The gasket is bright green suggesting it's been off recently too.)
  5. Welcome Rok, good to have you on board. I've answered your same question you posted in the Project section.
  6. NE0

    What is this? It's leaking.

    Welcome to the motorcycle world Rok. The oil leak is coming from the cam chain tensioner at the front of the engine. Japanese over head cam engines are all very similar (my 400/4 is a smaller version of your big boy).I appreciate yours is twin cam and mines single but the principle is exactly the same. Cam chain tensioner XS1100 models You need to get a haynes manual or similar which will give you detailed knowledge if you intend to do your own work. Exploded diagrams also help to understand what's what and there are plenty of websites about which will help you. One of the best is cmsnl.com for diagrams and part numbers of all japanese bikes. Your XS1100 is included. Hope this helps.
  7. NE0

    XS250 Paint

    Difficult to reproduce!?? Custom car painters have been doing this for years and can produce any colour with any effect!!..... but perhaps today they are a dying breed! Nonetheless surely you just need the paint code? and these paint shops can make it up? heres a website for yamaha paint codes and your model https://en.impex-jp.com/catalogs/moto/yamaha-2/xs250.html hope it helps...
  8. NE0

    BLACK IRON PIPE!

    you mean old imperial black steel pipe/conduit? sell this on ebay in 3/4" pipe. Any good to you? Ps or this?
  9. NE0

    need replacement tank decals

    Or.... if you want to buy the original. it's available here. Bit expensive. but available!l
  10. NE0

    can anyone help please

    Even if they can find the numbers its unlikely you'll get the original registration number back anyway, they'll issue an 'age related' plate. Which could have been on any vehicle around that time and has been scrapped for example. In my experience they rarely seem to take what we would call the sensible approach, i.e re-activating the existing plate. Their computer probably says "no" and the software was probably not designed to do that, so they follow 'procedure' and you end up with a different number and someone else ends up with your old number!
  11. NE0

    '73 Yamaha DT250A

    I don't know about production numbers, there wasn't millions of them. The DT range came out in the late 60's/ early 70's and the 'A' suffix was at the begining of the range of that particular model. ie. 'A' then 'B' and so on. Yours is a '73 so that would keep within expectations. Bear in mind also that each CC would have had its own range....DT50A DT175A, DT250A, etc etc. There might have even been a DT250 followed by the 'A' and then the 'B'. Each year or thereabouts an updated/modified version would come out and another letter added. Back in the 70's all manufactures, especially the japanese manufactures, were making leaps and bounds in a very short space of time, although many models sold in large numbers, some didn't, but it wasn't long before it was superseded by the next machine anyway!. The market was rich and plentiful with all us 'babyboomers' buying bikes!! You just have to take into consideration what was happening all around (the World) at that time.
  12. NE0

    '73 Yamaha DT250A

    Hi there, I think you might be over thinking it! Generally it doesn't stand for anything! Naming conventions are just part of the manufactures plans and future plans. We'll call the first one A then B and the next C and so on. Occasionally some bright spark comes up with a gimmick and says let's call something MX which could be for Moto Cross "M X" but this is not common by any means! The very first Ford car was the Model T, However, after its success Ford launched the Model A and then the B and so on but it never stood for anything. it's not like an Android OS naming convention!! On the otherhand the manufactures rarely call something a "Mark1" or "Mark 2" of their product. It normally starts off just as a name and then when the next version comes out it gets dubbed by the media/public "the Mark2" when it comes to differentiate it. Then, by default, the first model becomes the "Mark1". I can assure you Ford never launched the Ford Cortina in the early 60s as a Mark 1. It was just a Ford Cortina! In fact when the replacement got launched, that too was a Ford Cortina. it was not badged as a Mark 2 on it's bodyshell. Advertising and Marketing coined the Mark names thereafter to help identify it. (I guess some of you reading this might wonder what a Ford Cortina is!......) Hope this helps, PS if you're going to stick around, pop over to the new members section and post a little introduction about yourself and you'll meet a few other members.
  13. NE0

    XS250 carb. problem/s

    Have you ruled out the throttle cable? Disconnect it at the carb and manually operate the throttle at the carb. Does it still have trouble returning to idle? At least that way it would rule out the cable completely. It doesn't rule out the throttle slide , just the cable.
  14. NE0

    XS250 carb. problem/s

    It's not something simple like the throttle slide sticking and not returning to its idle position is it? or the cable binding at a 'hot spot'? just a thought!
  15. NE0

    XS250 carb. problem/s

    Very frustrating for you indeed. Bear in mind the bottom line is it's likely to be either fuel/air or timing. That's all it can be. Afterall it's only a collection of moving parts which do nothing until they are moving! Effort is required to get them going and fuel/air and timing keep them going until you turn it off by stopping. Simplistic view yes but in essence that's all it is!! Having said that my ramblings here might help guide you ......or not! Fuel/air mixture: making it lean or rich effects speed and whilst the carb is set up to deliver that correct mixture leaks on the induction side can screw it up too. When things get hot they expand so what's air tight when cold can get exposed when hot!, and conversely the same happens when cold. Leaks occur when cold making it difficult to start until hot when the expansion swells and everything closes! Which is why it becomes difficult to trace any faults! You test when cold only to reveal the problem when hot OR you test when hot and miss it when it was cold.The same Tests need to be done both hot and cold. Checking for air leaks is tricky, you can't hear them like an air leak on a punctured tyre. Mix up some washing up liquid in warm water making it as bubbly as possible (cold water doesnt make bubbles so well) then with a 1/2 inch paint brush paint it quickly around any joints of the induction side, paying attention to any rubber connector, they can leak at the interface or anywhere along its rubber length. Paint it on around the head gasket and on two strokes, especially around the base gaskets of the engine. Work quickly because the heat of the engine will rapidly evaporate it all even more so when hot. Listen out for changes in the engine speed not so much for the sound of air leaks although you get a nice reaction in the bubbles when you stumble across the leak. And before anyone says don't spread soapy water around it could get in the engine, it's likely to be a pin hole not a bloody great crack! Timing: A collection of bits which controls the high voltage to ignite the aforementioned fuel air mixture! Opening contacts too big or too small effects the timing and a few thousands of an inch can change it dramatically as many of you old dinosaurs like me will know. Equally wear and tear can also play it's part and have the same effect. Points should be checked when cold because when hot everything expands and the reading might not be so accurate. Equally when hot, things can stick! and also stop things working efficiently, don't spread it all in grease thinking you're making things better; it could have the opposite effect. Minimal oil works best here. One area often neglected is any spring loaded advance and retard mechanism found behind the contact sets. The goveners (weights on springs) move with the engine speed and advance the ignition automatically and can stick when hot, especially when covered in grease and crap over time. Pay particular attention to keeping these clean and maintained especially the pivot points. If it all sticks here it may take a little time for the springs to pull everything back and return the timing to normal. Replace the springs for example if they are suspected to be worn (springs do wear out!) Some vehicles have a vacuum mechanism attached to the goveners( I'm talking old classic cars here)but these are connected to the carb which influences the fuel/air mixture. Leaks and blockages here will also effect the performance. You might already know a lot of this but there again it might help others who stumble on this thread in the distant future! Hopefully of some help.
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