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NE0

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NE0 last won the day on January 24

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About NE0

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  • Current Bike(s)
    Yamaha DT175MX 1978/9. Honda CB400/4 1975

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  1. That post Dan... was back in December 2015 !!!
  2. NE0

    2 Stroke ignorance

    I've just been trawling through a few piston ring manufactures websites AE , Hastings, Nevlock, MI, and found an answer to the question of the spring ring behind: ..." It is their to apply additional radial pressure to the piston ring. This increases the unit pressure applied at the cylinder wall. " So there you go.!
  3. NE0

    2 Stroke ignorance

    The purpose of the "wiggly ring" is to keep the lower ring central, taking up the free space (regardless of how much space you perceive there to be!) and keeps the ring central and equi-distant all around. Just because the original rings don't have them is no basis to leave them out. You may find that the original ring is a little wider in its cross section thereby not needing them, whereas the newer ring may be that little bit smaller to enable the 'wiggly ring to sit behind it!! Manufacturers don't include them for fun or as an 'optional extra' after all their R&D. When I did my engine , i put them in as supplied..... If l had left them out and for whatever reason I wasn't happy with the performance ....I wouldn't want to strip it ALL down again just to put them in!!
  4. Welcome G Digger, nice to have you on board. ive got the slightly smaller DT175MX but not that dissimilar. Whats your general location? (don't give your address out) but you never know someone might live nearby and can offer more than advice.
  5. Had to go to Google translate for that one Drewps! it detected Italian...... Not sure it makes sense though?..... Burn Christmas??
  6. Merry Christmas folks. Have a good one and a prosperous 2020
  7. I've had a look at the facebook sites, Can't say I'm over impressed by them, posts tend to be 'look where I've been' photos and no obvious threads to follow about bike maintenance etc. I'll stick with the forum thanks even if the activity has died down.
  8. Good Lord!! Can't believe people are still interested in this thread!! and it's had 82.5K views! Looks like Cynic has come to your assistance Bob, hope it all goes ok. You'll be pleased to know my conversion is still going strong albiet the DT is now resting on SORN having moved a few weeks ago. The plan is to change its taxation class to 'Historic' with the change of address then I can start using it occasionally. Nonetheless I rode it on and off the removals lorry! and the headlight was working fine.
  9. hi there, could well be one of Dream Machine paint jobs. Up in Nottingham i believe. Might be worth contacting them, they'll recognise their own work. They'll also likely tell you if it came from Yamaha like that. No harm in sending them an email.Good luck.
  10. Cynic is always spot on, you can trust his advice phil. Similar thing happened on my DT and cynic knew it was an airleak then. One of my old posts might help you..
  11. Hens teeth they may be! But they do come available on ebay every now and then.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XVS125-DRAGSTAR-2002-CARBURETTOR-CARB/392352703482?hash=item5b5a0b23fa:g:ecIAAOSwgSJdNw99
  12. Hi there, the likeliest explanation is fuel coming from the overflow pipe. You say you've not had it long. So by that statement you probably dont know its history other than the verbal spiel the owner gave you. If a bike hasn't been used for a while, the fuel left inside the carb evaporates. This process can empty a float chamber and on the face of it, you think its a process where it all disappears. Unfortunatley whilst it does disappear it also leaves behind a hard varnish like product referred to as shelac. It can build up and over time goes dark brown. This varnish can not only block up fine passageways but also make the moving parts....stop!! The film can build up on the float chamber pivot and stop it moving freely. Often getting stuck in the down position as if the float chamber was empty. As fuel pours in the float doesn't move to close off the inlet and fuel will fill the chamber and into the overflow. This can be quite alarming!! it can appear temporary or last longer. Turning the fuel stopcock "OFF" solves the inflow of petrol and that might be enough to let the float recover. Which means it can appear intermittent fault. The bottom line however, is it all needs a clean.!
  13. hi, I assume you've used the search option on the top right and put in the words "derestrict" ? I just did that and there was four pages of information. Meanwhile, take a few moments to introduce yourself in the New members section, just say who you are , and a bit of friendly banter and you might find some members who can help. Welcome aboard.
  14. Hi Rick, You say you're hopeless at electrics! so don't be offended if i say have you checked the bulbs? The DT has two circuits. The battery powers the tail/brake light, side light, indicators and horn. Meanwhile The magneto/generator ONLY powers the headlight bulb. The headlight is on a DIFFERENT circuit to all the other bulbs. Tracing faults is a process of elimination. The fact you have a working brake light shows there is power from the battery. Therefore the fuse must be intact and by default the earth for that bulb must also be intact. (The brake and tail light bulb shares the same earth) The rear bulb may have a damaged tail light filament, incidentally just looking at a filament is not enough to say it's intact. Sometimes it may visually appear to be intact but may not work. It's easy to check bulbs with a piece of wire and the battery. Explaining how to do it..... well heres a video on you tube Substitute your battery for the one in the video and touch the contacts on the bottom of the bulb separately to test them. One does work (you already know this because you said the brake light works) which means if you can't get either to work you're not doing it right. Equally, if both filaments work then the fault lies in the wiring circuit. You can test ALL your bulbs first this way to see if they are the cause and replace them accordingly. The next part will be tracing the fault in the wiring if ALL the bulbs work using the above method. Hope this helps. Let us know how you get on.
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