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NE0 last won the day on June 30

NE0 had the most liked content!

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About NE0

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  • Current Bike(s)
    Yamaha DT175MX 1978/9. Honda CB400/4 1975

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    The Real world

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  1. hi there, could well be one of Dream Machine paint jobs. Up in Nottingham i believe. Might be worth contacting them, they'll recognise their own work. They'll also likely tell you if it came from Yamaha like that. No harm in sending them an email.Good luck.
  2. Cynic is always spot on, you can trust his advice phil. Similar thing happened on my DT and cynic knew it was an airleak then. One of my old posts might help you..
  3. Hens teeth they may be! But they do come available on ebay every now and then.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XVS125-DRAGSTAR-2002-CARBURETTOR-CARB/392352703482?hash=item5b5a0b23fa:g:ecIAAOSwgSJdNw99
  4. Hi there, the likeliest explanation is fuel coming from the overflow pipe. You say you've not had it long. So by that statement you probably dont know its history other than the verbal spiel the owner gave you. If a bike hasn't been used for a while, the fuel left inside the carb evaporates. This process can empty a float chamber and on the face of it, you think its a process where it all disappears. Unfortunatley whilst it does disappear it also leaves behind a hard varnish like product referred to as shelac. It can build up and over time goes dark brown. This varnish can not only block up fine passageways but also make the moving parts....stop!! The film can build up on the float chamber pivot and stop it moving freely. Often getting stuck in the down position as if the float chamber was empty. As fuel pours in the float doesn't move to close off the inlet and fuel will fill the chamber and into the overflow. This can be quite alarming!! it can appear temporary or last longer. Turning the fuel stopcock "OFF" solves the inflow of petrol and that might be enough to let the float recover. Which means it can appear intermittent fault. The bottom line however, is it all needs a clean.!
  5. hi, I assume you've used the search option on the top right and put in the words "derestrict" ? I just did that and there was four pages of information. Meanwhile, take a few moments to introduce yourself in the New members section, just say who you are , and a bit of friendly banter and you might find some members who can help. Welcome aboard.
  6. Hi Rick, You say you're hopeless at electrics! so don't be offended if i say have you checked the bulbs? The DT has two circuits. The battery powers the tail/brake light, side light, indicators and horn. Meanwhile The magneto/generator ONLY powers the headlight bulb. The headlight is on a DIFFERENT circuit to all the other bulbs. Tracing faults is a process of elimination. The fact you have a working brake light shows there is power from the battery. Therefore the fuse must be intact and by default the earth for that bulb must also be intact. (The brake and tail light bulb shares the same earth) The rear bulb may have a damaged tail light filament, incidentally just looking at a filament is not enough to say it's intact. Sometimes it may visually appear to be intact but may not work. It's easy to check bulbs with a piece of wire and the battery. Explaining how to do it..... well heres a video on you tube Substitute your battery for the one in the video and touch the contacts on the bottom of the bulb separately to test them. One does work (you already know this because you said the brake light works) which means if you can't get either to work you're not doing it right. Equally, if both filaments work then the fault lies in the wiring circuit. You can test ALL your bulbs first this way to see if they are the cause and replace them accordingly. The next part will be tracing the fault in the wiring if ALL the bulbs work using the above method. Hope this helps. Let us know how you get on.
  7. I had my Honda 400/4 frame powder coated along with the swinging arm, battery shelf, and a few bits and bobs. I stripped off all the paint to save money they just dipped it prior to powder coating it. i appreciate mine was done over 30 years ago but it's still perfectly intact today. A little dull in places but all the hard to reach parts are unaffected. A friend of mine sanded and painted his frame similar time and his rust came through the paint in only a few years. He then stripped it all down again....and repainted it, not unsurprising it lasted a bit longer but the rust particles still came through. Back in 2011 i had the DT175 parts powder coated 5 parts in all:- swinging arm, chain bracket and tensioner arm, sidestand and brake pedal. £50 the lot. All still looking good and the DTs been well used in the rain. I'd go with the powder coating myself. PS It's not a sin to mention its a Honda Cynic.! why the hashtag?
  8. NE0

    Forum update

    Don't laugh Cynic....., I was logged on as you!!!
  9. NE0

    Anyone use a tail bag?

    Hi Mike You're referring to a MONOSTRAP bag or "Mens crossbody bag". Careful... crossbody bags on ebay is mainly ladies handbags/shoulder bags!
  10. Mines an early DT175MX with round tube swinging arm first registered in May79 but built in 1978. The number is 2K4 3XXX. That might give you an idea or at least a date to work from.
  11. NE0

    1979 DT 175 MX

    Hi Ronnie. The front brake lever is available on yambits website The rear inner guard is very scarce here in UK, try ebay with european union ticked instead of UK. they sometimes have them. Oddly enough there's one on there in france now, but its not cheap! Expect to pay over £50 for one
  12. NE0

    2004 dt 125

    You mean this nut in the miscellaneous kickstart parts! https://yambits.co.uk/kickstart-levers-rubbers-parts-kickstart-parts-c-241_97_895_898.html
  13. NE0

    2004 dt 125

    Yambits do various bits of course https://yambits.co.uk/dt125r-kickstart-lever-p-4983.html not sure if this one fits? other parts available on their site, just have a look around. https://yambits.co.uk/kickstart-levers-rubbers-parts-kickstart-levers-c-241_97_895_896.html?osCsid=gmfrhocv229l7ohl2ac18juad4
  14. NE0

    2004 dt 125

    Hi Dicky This might be helpful to you. It maybe that you're already aware of the pages... https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/13/kick-start-conversion-dtre plus some useful photos near the bottom of this page https://dt125r.activeboard.com/t35899660/dt125re-kick-start-conversion/
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