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NE0

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NE0 last won the day on December 8 2021

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  • Current Bike(s)
    Yamaha DT175MX 1978/9. Honda CB400/4 1975

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    The Real World

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  1. Hi Ben, Welcome to the group and to this side of the Planet! To get free MOT and free road tax you have to first have your V5C registration documents issued by DVLA to state 'HISTORIC' in the taxation class. I can't help you how to obtain the V5C in the first place though! Someone else will hopefully explain how you go about importing a bike into the UK and getting your V5C. Here's my actual account of how I changed my V5C to HISTORIC. as mentioned in the text , it's not an automatic process just because its over 40 years old. From DVLA's point of view they are quite happy for you to pay Road Tax, they won't tell you that you can get it for free, nor will they tell you the Bike is elgible. Incidently, whilst the road tax is 'free', the MOT side of it is; YOU are declaring that it is SAFE to be on the road, and are taking full responsibility for it meeting the road safety standard for an Historic bike. Although there is nothing stopping you putting your bike through for an MOT and paying for it. You also mention you'd like to do a 12v conversion, well I too did this to my DT175MX over 10 years ago and here's the indepth account on how I went about it, have a read if you haven't already. Usual disclaimer applies. This was my bike, no idea if it would work on yours! https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/25945-dt-175-mx-12volt-conversion/ well, there's a start for you, once again welcome to the group, whilst your here, why not pop over to the new members section and do a brief introduction,which always goes down well. All the best NE0
  2. Hagon make shockabsorbers.
  3. Excellent Grah, Glad you got it sorted out. just got you a Gold medal on the leader board!
  4. I learnt along time ago to take loads of digital photos with my camera, saves a lot of hassle a year later!!
  5. and this photo shows the little tag poking up just behind the brake pedal https://www.thebikespecialists.com/vehicle/yamaha-dt250-mx-classic-iconic-trail-bike-excellent-condition-in-sheffield-43b7fe63-9b9e-4049-9742-c35103cd06e9 one of the photos shows a close up of the brake side....you can just about make it out. This gives an indication that the tag has to be uppermost. Yes, there looks like a small spring attached to that arm, do you have that?
  6. Heh Graham, Done some further searching and found this image of a DT250MX rear brake switch and looks like you might be missing a bit!
  7. just looked on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284624724360?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMIk9DGgdmH9gIVj77tCh376gD1EAQYAyABEgJvyvD_BwE this one comes with a spring? and others also.... https://www.rexs-speedshop.com/product/yamaha-rear-brake-switch-with-spring/ and this one with a rod for a single shock DT250MX https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154575520731?hash=item23fd6b43db:g:LMgAAOSwF7BhHi47
  8. hi Graham Not sure if this helps but this is my 1978 DT175MX rear brake light set up. and the other end of the spring goes on the top part of the brake pedal the switch part points down towards the pedal, and is held on by the plastic nut. It fits in a welded ring on the frame. The long spring attaches to the 'pull out' plunger and the other end attaches to a hole in the top of the brake pedal. When you depress the rear brake , it pulls the plunger out and this makes the internal switch close and the rear light goes on. I appreciate yours may be different but it may be helpful. NE0
  9. Hi Blake I own a 1978 MX with 7 wire cdi, there is a wiring diagram available in the Haynes owners workshop manual .Yamaha 100,125 &175 trail bikes. Brown cover Book 210. On page 167. hope that helps.
  10. Hi folks, Just thought I'd take the time to wish you ALL a Merry Christmas and hope you all have a better 2022. The forum has got a lot quieter since I first joined ten years ago, nonetheless I still visit every few days to read whats going on with you all. I still enjoy the banter, even if the bikes don't do many miles at all these days. Have a great time and enjoy your family time. NE0. Apparently I've got a new film out!..... Might have to go and watch it over the holiday period.
  11. ...and originally posted by a One Hit Wonder.....and replied by another One Hit Wonder. Neither ever seen again!
  12. Good work, especially under the seat. I had similar problems with my wiring loom and ended up replacing the whole thing with a replacement loom from the bay! It's no fun working on a bike in the cold weather, been there done that! mind you, when they do break down, it's normally in the winter, after the sun has set and miles from home!! You can ride for miles in the summer without so much as a hint of trouble, but come with winter...different story! Keep up the good work and enjoy.
  13. I'm sure you've all been there but I had a sleepless night last night, mainly with my brain popping up random thoughts that i couldn't get rid of....and it kept me awake! One of them though was "Why DID early Yams have twin spark plug holes!!?" I came to the conclusion that it was either for 'Performance' or 'Diagnostic'...... "Performance" to make it better or worse! or "Diagnostic" to see what was making it better or worse! yup not the best discussion to have with yourself at 4 am....but.... It also got me thinking about what was available back in the 70's to do either of them...As regards to 'Diagnostic', there was Colortune sparkplugs, which were a popular 'accessory' that found their way into many a christmas stocking for dad who had everything. It was a plug with a glass inspection construction so you could 'see' the colour of your spark!.....oh joy!....come on... it was 4am!! but would Yamaha construct cylinder heads just for this purpose?....unlikely I thought!...unless it was a high performance engine......not your run of the mill Trial bike... it was probably 04.15 by now! Which made me think of 'Performance'. Was there really a need to equip their cylinder heads with dual spark plug holes to run twin plugs? Presumably that would mean twin HT Coils and maybe twin contact breakers? makes you think doesn't it? it was probably at least 04.30 by now! I don't recall my mate who had twin plugs on his AT ever having twin coils, true he had both spark plugs inserted but only one was ever connected at a time. He would change the HT lead over to the other plug if it got too fouled up...but thinking about that today (04.40) the chances are the carbon fouling was probably all over THAT spark plug too!!....but heh we were just 16!...it seemed to be the 'right thing' to do, swapping HT leads.....wow...the performance change...Not!! Anyway, (04.45) I came to the conclusion that dual plug holes was probably related to performance more than anything else......mass produced?...domestic market vs sports market?.......then just blank off the hole that's not in use and make use of the twin holes for the sports related performance. Seemed logical, and probably not untypical of 70's thinking. No I didn't drop off ...I still had Quantum and String theory to discuss with myself along with what am i going to do today?, what I'm going to be ABLE to do today with so little sleep!!.... what's that ringing?...it's the alarm......time to get up! Then I thought "Why don't I google it? " Twin spark plugs on Cylinder heads.... I was right after all....its performance related... https://www.rediff.com/getahead/report/slide-show-1-biking-and-motoring-why-twin-spark-is-superior-to-single-spark-tech/20140104.htm So I just have to answer one final question.... Why didn't i get up at 4am and look it up? ...would have saved myself all that 'deep thinking"! Gee ...i'm tired!!!
  14. Anything must be worth a try if you've tried everything. But i just did a quick google search for timing with unleaded vs leaded, and apparently you retard the timing slightly. One guy writes that for his classic bike engine he normally sets the timing where it "should" be and, providing he gets it going, goes for a ride up a hill, if it pinks he retards it a bit, if it doesn't he advances it until it does pink then winds it back very slightly. Remember it only takes a fraction of adjustment to alter the effect it has. Like I said it might be worth altering it, you can always set it back to 'normal', if it doesn't work. it's only a screw adjustment afterall, but having said that, I'm not so sure I altered my DT for unleaded! .....I may have done , it's so long ago though!.......good luck Phil keep us posted.
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