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NE0

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NE0 last won the day on February 28

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About NE0

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  • Current Bike(s)
    Yamaha DT175MX 1978/9. Honda CB400/4 1975

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    Male
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    The Real world

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  1. Shame you don't know anyone who's going to America for a Holiday! bring it back in a suitcase.
  2. hi Geiger, DT175MX is 77cm, however, a useful site is Wemoto. just put in "yamaha Tacho cable" in the search field and a lot of the cables have lengths published. i.e: Tacho Cable Yamaha DT 250MX 1977-1982 Outer 800 mm Inner 825 mm Inner thread diameter 11mm Outer thread diameter 16mm if you leave out "Yamaha" then it lists some 120 cables for different makes. Presumably the part number is B38-2240 as I see there is one on ebay in USA at present.
  3. Further to the above thread, I also replied with this which you may find helpful as it relates to the airleak i had..... This idle problem may well be air related, I had a not disimilar problem, albeit it would race away. But mine would not idle properly either until I solved the airleak. One solution to locate a leak (mine was the bottom gasket) was to make a load of soap suds bubbles and brush it all around the engine with an old paint brush whilst its running, any bubbling will locate the leak. (A similar method is used to spray WD40 on the crankshaft seal as mentioned
  4. Hi there, all very familiar!! have a read of one of my previous posts about my DT....
  5. Sorry bud, I was just responding to the opening line... I don't see a lot of Brass studs/bolts being advertised. That's the trouble with text, it's not the same as conversation.
  6. You don't normally see brass studs or bolts as brass doesn't have a high tensile strength and subsequently its threads strip easily. It's quite a soft alloy. Having said that it's easy to clean the threads of a steel stud if a brass nut has been used and it's been overtightened. You just pick out the strands of brass stuck between the theads.
  7. Sure did and within 24 hours of the question....or perhaps you didn't realise you posted twice!
  8. Hi Gordon, Had a look on google for you, came up with an exploded diagram of the ignition switch, and i assume you're referring to the switch cap cover as shown in the diagram labelled no 6. https://goparts.eu/en/genuine-oem/yamaha/scooter/xn-teo-s-125/2000/battery On bigger motorbikes generally these are a push on fit with lugs on the main switch body which holds it in place, it takes a small screwdriver to prise the cover over the lugs to remove it. Not saying yours will be the same but like I said "generally" they are fitted this way so no reason to think it would be alot dif
  9. Hi scott, have you thought about replacing the crankcases,? might be a cheaper option. Theres a pair of crankcases on ebay for a DT125MX which are identical. I know they are in Greece but even with customs it would be cheaper. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-dt125-dt-125-mx-1978-2A600-engine-casings-cases-motor/124306021524?hash=item1cf1375c94:g:R-AAAOSwH2Be3CHk There was a thread a few years ago about the 125MX crankcase, and Airhead confirmed they are identical. Might be worth thinking about?
  10. Don't waste your money Scott, i did my DT 175 engine without any of those tools. (I did use a flywheel puller though) The crank case comes apart really easy, i think if i did do anything .... i may have used a strategically placed bit of 2x1 timber and a gentle hammer. Just don't use a screwdriver to prise the two halves apart. I certainly didn't use any fancy tools. The clutch centre nut wasn't difficult either, a bit of wood that was all and socket set. I used 2 bits of wood under the piston to do the crank nut and a chain wrench on the generator nut. These photos may hel
  11. Hi Nicomasala, I might not be able to help as regards to the engine casing compatiblity but I can give you some advice as regards to the welding. I answered a similar post the other day and my answer also applies here:- The casing is cast aluminium, if you're not familiar, they make a mould and pour in molten aluminium and it sets into the shape they designed, it's quite strong, but if it gets damaged it's a different story. In my experience aluminium welding is not that successful especially if its going to support something, it's more suitable to say,.. repairing the outer cas
  12. Hi jack, The casing is cast aluminium, if you're not familiar, they make a mold and pour in molten aluminium and it sets into the shape they designed, it's quite strong, but if it gets damaged it's a different story. In my experience aluminium welding is not that successful especially if its going to support something, it's more suitable to say,.. repairing the outer casing... to seal up a crack. (which doesn't always last). Regretfully you're looking at replacing the damaged casing with another or a new one.
  13. Hi Bud, looking at the parts diagram https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/900-MOTO/2018/TRACER/MTT850D/FRONT-FORK/2017_76703-76703/26/0/25207 there is no equaliser between the forks and two sets of internal springs are listed ,one for each fork! Mind you proving it that they left out the components is a different matter. Having said that, you're getting new internals fitted, but I certainly wouldn't be taking my bike back to them.
  14. There are some decent good people about Mike and glad it turned out alright. Has anybody had any pillion 'mishaps'? well yes, only the once, fortunately it all turned out 'ok' albiet a very frightening experience. it was also about twenty years ago, when I offered to take a nurse colleague out on my 400/4, as she'd never been on a bike before and admired my bike parked outside. I took the bike out through the countryside of West Sussex and ended up about to join a straight stretch of dual carriageway along towards Chichester. It's a T junction and the road is clear both ways sa
  15. I didn't remove the cover on the clutch side as you can see in the last photo (This was the photo of the strip down) So i only removed the gearbox side as seen in the photos above. I only had to do this with one bearing. The other bearings were purchased as open. I referred to my strip down photos and the Haynes manual which also detailed the procedure if I recall correctly.
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