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Everything posted by NE0

  1. That post Dan... was back in December 2015 !!!
  2. NE0

    2 Stroke ignorance

    I've just been trawling through a few piston ring manufactures websites AE , Hastings, Nevlock, MI, and found an answer to the question of the spring ring behind: ..." It is their to apply additional radial pressure to the piston ring. This increases the unit pressure applied at the cylinder wall. " So there you go.!
  3. NE0

    2 Stroke ignorance

    The purpose of the "wiggly ring" is to keep the lower ring central, taking up the free space (regardless of how much space you perceive there to be!) and keeps the ring central and equi-distant all around. Just because the original rings don't have them is no basis to leave them out. You may find that the original ring is a little wider in its cross section thereby not needing them, whereas the newer ring may be that little bit smaller to enable the 'wiggly ring to sit behind it!! Manufacturers don't include them for fun or as an 'optional extra' after all their R&D. When I did my engine , i put them in as supplied..... If l had left them out and for whatever reason I wasn't happy with the performance ....I wouldn't want to strip it ALL down again just to put them in!!
  4. Welcome G Digger, nice to have you on board. ive got the slightly smaller DT175MX but not that dissimilar. Whats your general location? (don't give your address out) but you never know someone might live nearby and can offer more than advice.
  5. Had to go to Google translate for that one Drewps! it detected Italian...... Not sure it makes sense though?..... Burn Christmas??
  6. Merry Christmas folks. Have a good one and a prosperous 2020
  7. I've had a look at the facebook sites, Can't say I'm over impressed by them, posts tend to be 'look where I've been' photos and no obvious threads to follow about bike maintenance etc. I'll stick with the forum thanks even if the activity has died down.
  8. Good Lord!! Can't believe people are still interested in this thread!! and it's had 82.5K views! Looks like Cynic has come to your assistance Bob, hope it all goes ok. You'll be pleased to know my conversion is still going strong albiet the DT is now resting on SORN having moved a few weeks ago. The plan is to change its taxation class to 'Historic' with the change of address then I can start using it occasionally. Nonetheless I rode it on and off the removals lorry! and the headlight was working fine.
  9. hi there, could well be one of Dream Machine paint jobs. Up in Nottingham i believe. Might be worth contacting them, they'll recognise their own work. They'll also likely tell you if it came from Yamaha like that. No harm in sending them an email.Good luck.
  10. Cynic is always spot on, you can trust his advice phil. Similar thing happened on my DT and cynic knew it was an airleak then. One of my old posts might help you..
  11. Hens teeth they may be! But they do come available on ebay every now and then.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XVS125-DRAGSTAR-2002-CARBURETTOR-CARB/392352703482?hash=item5b5a0b23fa:g:ecIAAOSwgSJdNw99
  12. Hi there, the likeliest explanation is fuel coming from the overflow pipe. You say you've not had it long. So by that statement you probably dont know its history other than the verbal spiel the owner gave you. If a bike hasn't been used for a while, the fuel left inside the carb evaporates. This process can empty a float chamber and on the face of it, you think its a process where it all disappears. Unfortunatley whilst it does disappear it also leaves behind a hard varnish like product referred to as shelac. It can build up and over time goes dark brown. This varnish can not only block up fine passageways but also make the moving parts....stop!! The film can build up on the float chamber pivot and stop it moving freely. Often getting stuck in the down position as if the float chamber was empty. As fuel pours in the float doesn't move to close off the inlet and fuel will fill the chamber and into the overflow. This can be quite alarming!! it can appear temporary or last longer. Turning the fuel stopcock "OFF" solves the inflow of petrol and that might be enough to let the float recover. Which means it can appear intermittent fault. The bottom line however, is it all needs a clean.!
  13. hi, I assume you've used the search option on the top right and put in the words "derestrict" ? I just did that and there was four pages of information. Meanwhile, take a few moments to introduce yourself in the New members section, just say who you are , and a bit of friendly banter and you might find some members who can help. Welcome aboard.
  14. Hi Rick, You say you're hopeless at electrics! so don't be offended if i say have you checked the bulbs? The DT has two circuits. The battery powers the tail/brake light, side light, indicators and horn. Meanwhile The magneto/generator ONLY powers the headlight bulb. The headlight is on a DIFFERENT circuit to all the other bulbs. Tracing faults is a process of elimination. The fact you have a working brake light shows there is power from the battery. Therefore the fuse must be intact and by default the earth for that bulb must also be intact. (The brake and tail light bulb shares the same earth) The rear bulb may have a damaged tail light filament, incidentally just looking at a filament is not enough to say it's intact. Sometimes it may visually appear to be intact but may not work. It's easy to check bulbs with a piece of wire and the battery. Explaining how to do it..... well heres a video on you tube Substitute your battery for the one in the video and touch the contacts on the bottom of the bulb separately to test them. One does work (you already know this because you said the brake light works) which means if you can't get either to work you're not doing it right. Equally, if both filaments work then the fault lies in the wiring circuit. You can test ALL your bulbs first this way to see if they are the cause and replace them accordingly. The next part will be tracing the fault in the wiring if ALL the bulbs work using the above method. Hope this helps. Let us know how you get on.
  15. I had my Honda 400/4 frame powder coated along with the swinging arm, battery shelf, and a few bits and bobs. I stripped off all the paint to save money they just dipped it prior to powder coating it. i appreciate mine was done over 30 years ago but it's still perfectly intact today. A little dull in places but all the hard to reach parts are unaffected. A friend of mine sanded and painted his frame similar time and his rust came through the paint in only a few years. He then stripped it all down again....and repainted it, not unsurprising it lasted a bit longer but the rust particles still came through. Back in 2011 i had the DT175 parts powder coated 5 parts in all:- swinging arm, chain bracket and tensioner arm, sidestand and brake pedal. £50 the lot. All still looking good and the DTs been well used in the rain. I'd go with the powder coating myself. PS It's not a sin to mention its a Honda Cynic.! why the hashtag?
  16. NE0

    Forum update

    Don't laugh Cynic....., I was logged on as you!!!
  17. NE0

    Anyone use a tail bag?

    Hi Mike You're referring to a MONOSTRAP bag or "Mens crossbody bag". Careful... crossbody bags on ebay is mainly ladies handbags/shoulder bags!
  18. Mines an early DT175MX with round tube swinging arm first registered in May79 but built in 1978. The number is 2K4 3XXX. That might give you an idea or at least a date to work from.
  19. NE0

    1979 DT 175 MX

    Hi Ronnie. The front brake lever is available on yambits website The rear inner guard is very scarce here in UK, try ebay with european union ticked instead of UK. they sometimes have them. Oddly enough there's one on there in france now, but its not cheap! Expect to pay over £50 for one
  20. NE0

    2004 dt 125

    You mean this nut in the miscellaneous kickstart parts! https://yambits.co.uk/kickstart-levers-rubbers-parts-kickstart-parts-c-241_97_895_898.html
  21. NE0

    2004 dt 125

    Yambits do various bits of course https://yambits.co.uk/dt125r-kickstart-lever-p-4983.html not sure if this one fits? other parts available on their site, just have a look around. https://yambits.co.uk/kickstart-levers-rubbers-parts-kickstart-levers-c-241_97_895_896.html?osCsid=gmfrhocv229l7ohl2ac18juad4
  22. NE0

    2004 dt 125

    Hi Dicky This might be helpful to you. It maybe that you're already aware of the pages... https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/13/kick-start-conversion-dtre plus some useful photos near the bottom of this page https://dt125r.activeboard.com/t35899660/dt125re-kick-start-conversion/
  23. There's a V50 breaking for parts for sale on Gumtree in Norfolk. You could buy the engine, and see if you can get it rebored to a larger size?...... just a thought.
  24. Hi there Rentaspoon, I thought I wrote it quite clearly but let me recap:- look at the key positions marked I, II and III *****READ THE ROWs ACROSS**** key position I; The red wire goes from the battery and is switched to the brown (This goes to the indicators, brake light and horn) The headlight is not lit up on this key position. Look at the GEN. the white wire (charging wire) goes to the reg/rec and then onto the battery to charge it via the red wire the other white wire comes to the switch. We know from the first page posts that the OUTPUT of the generator on the WHITE wire is anything from 11volts to 26 volts (depending on revs) This amount of voltage would fry the battery. So it is connected BACK to the reg/rec via the YELLOW wire (on the right side of the pic) to 'clip' it and reduce the current going to the battery to charge it This will cause the reg/rec to heat up and the fins help dissipate this heat thereby cooling it down. Key position II: The red wire goes from the battery and is switched to the brown( doing the same as above) and is also switched to the red/blue wire (This ADDS the tail light and pilot light) The GEN white wire is still connected to the battery via the reg/rec BUT the white wire which goes to the switch NOW does nothing because in switch position II it is NOT connected. (The battery is still charging but the output on the white wire has been reduced because the lighting coil inside the generator is now being used) So now look at the YELLOW wire from the GEN ( on the left) This carries the output of the lighting coil to the headlight. It is switched to YELLOW/RED wire to run the headlight. BUT we also know from the first page post the the OUTPUT on this yellow wire is anything from 6v to 16v depending on the revs. Prior to the conversion the headlight only required 6 volt. ALL excess voltage was reduced by reg/rec on the YELLOW (right side wire) The reg/rec clips the output to 6v otherwise the output would blow the bulb. Using a different 12v reg/rec, this clips the voltage to 12volt enabling the 12 volt bulb to be used in the headlamp instead of 6v The right side YELLOW wire is still connected to the reg/rec and still heats up as above. Unfortunately, the generator STILL produces 6 volt at low revs, because the generator has not been altered. therefore at low revs the 12vot bulb will glow dimly on 6v output. It only glows brightly once the generator produces 11volts plus. Does that help?
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