Leaderboard

Hi all, "Newish" to bikes is my daughter. She just loves being on the back of the bike. It's also a great feeling for me to have her with me, us both doing something we love together. Can't get the picture up,,,,, sorry Pat

Hi sorry for late responce. bike back together all gears shifting nicely, neutral abit hard to find but manageable. read somewhere if chain a bit tight can cause this issue so i will loosen chain to see if improves. Thanks for everybody's help so far, cheers Graham

Well, as I say, I'm no mechanic, but that's how I'd go about finding the problem. Good luck!

It has been a while since I popped in here and in the search for more power and some research I have fitted the tope end from a TZR250 2XT model. The 2XT has plated bores instead of steel liners so are lighter and they have auxiliary exhaust ports and wider power valves fr more power so over the last week I have been busy prepping the 2XT top end ready to fit on my engine, which I completed yesterday. I have been out on it today in the one dry spell we had and gave it a good runabout an checking the plugs which looked happy and the bike felt happy too, went into the fun zone a few times and what a difference the 2xt top end has made. It has gone from a mad hooligan bike into a bonkers hooligan in the fun zone. It will be off to the dyno very soon for final set up and the all important back wheel power output readings.

Here's my XJ6 s 2012 I bought recently. Only 1,750 miles on the clock! It's a great ride, excellent condition really comfortable and pretty quick. I think I'll be keeping this one for a while...

after being blocked out for years I am back good new or bad ? thanks for sorting it Alex

Hi finally after a year of fault finding and replacing the wiring loom after finding a mouse had made a mess of it and replacing other parts. I havejust got the engine turned over under its own power. Now to get it ready of it's MOT

I thought you just fill out the changes form attached to your v5 and send it off?

No worries, can never hurt to ask. From what I have gathered in my ever continuing research: 4FU: Higher compression head, Nikasil plated liner, flat piston 3MB: steel liner, more aggressive porting, hole in inlet side of piston for lubing the small end Basically people tend to favour the 4FU but at the end of the day they are about the same. In a turn of events, we MAY have tracked down the original engine and are hoping to get it back next week.

Well, don't forget to come back and let us know how it goes...

Hi just got my membership number so happy days. I emailed YOC and they replied with my membership number, which has saved me £70 on my Yamaha it250f insurance

Adding pictures is easy, on reply go to add files and follow the steps

Not a clue on reliability, never heard of them before. But E-Bay is your friend most of the time for parts. Past that there's always Yambits : Yambits - Yamaha Parts

Welcome in, I had to google what a Radian was, but looks cool. If you become a full member here, you can get a discount on your insurance from Bikesure...

A carb problem. 1st, on the outside of the carb there will be a Philips screw with a big visible spring around it, this is an air mixture screw, turning it left or right will up and down the idle of the bike by really small amounts. Turn it right by 1/4 a turn and wait a min for the bike to react, if the revs rise a little without the bike being too reved up, it should idle. If it dies straight away try turning to the left 1/4 turn and wait for a reaction. Always remember where the screw was set at before you start turning it. If this doesn't make the bike idle probably you will have to clean the carb. Inside the carb there are 3 jets you have to clean spotless,,,, idle jet,,,,pilot jet,,,,and main jet. Obviously the idle jet is for idling and starting,,,,pilot jet is for throttle from idle to nearly 1/2 throttle and main jet is from half to full throttle. This is a rough explanation but that's what there for. Every bit of inside the carb needs to be really clean. The fact your bike dies coming to a stop, then hard to start, then won't take throttle to let you pull away tells me it's your jets BUT it's definitely worth a try first with the air screw, you might get lucky,,,,, maybe it was never adjusted from factory settings and after all the years it needs to be tweaked. Google carb cleaning before you touch the card and it's delicate setting Best of luck

Looks solid! Nice bike...

Hi, I'm Dan. I live in Poole. I currently have a 2002 Thundercat which I've owned for 3 years since returning to 2 wheels after a lengthy lay off! I have just acquired a 2001 Thunderace which I bought from an auction site for not a lot of money. 12,000 miles but I think much UNloved. It starts on the button and runs well. Unfortunately, as I don't want to get wet, (I'm far too old for those shenanigans) I didn't get to ride it for a couple of weeks. However, one Sunday morning, the sun made an appearance so I decided to take it for a little spin. 10 miles later I'm back home and well pleased with the initial run once I'd put some proper air in the tyres! I did notice when back in the garage that the clutch master cylinder bolts were literally hanging out so took the decision there and then to pull it off the road and look at it properly. I can't trust anyone else's handiwork when such a glaring error was made! I've decided to service the machine even though the seller stated that he had done it. I'm also changing all the lines for braided and all the fairing bolts for stainless steel. You should have seen the mish mash that was on it! I am hoping to find some friendly voices on here and maybe a few tips and helpful advice. My only query thus far is about mounting paddock stand bobbins on the swingarm and how they don't go tight all of the way due to the weld on the arm. Will they just be ok wound tight to the weld or do people utilise a spacer such as a split washer underneath? Any replies will be well received. Thanks, Dan

Completed. Really heavy rain going down there on Saturday, but stopped just as we landed. We were both dry apart from my boots, I really need a new pair. Pitched tent, had food, camp place is nice enough,,, then took to the roads,,,,, some really nice roads there, even the B roads are nice. Camped the night after I had 2 pints,,,, as usual I didn't sleep much at all. Sunday was lovely and sunny,,,, after breakfast we took off again. Stayed in the area for a while exploring,,,nice open countryside views. Lots of bikes around, most seamed to be in groups of 5 to 10 bikes. Eventually we started heading north for home,,, was around 1.30pm and we were still in Winchester so had to start getting my tramp on. Stopped in Goring for food, then Stoner, then West Wycombe, then Amersham, after that we turned for the M25 (only motorway we were on) and a quick blast home. Was a nice area, nice roads, great views, 428 miles total. My daughter is a natural as a passenger no matter what I'm doing on the bike. Haven't many pics,,,,, can't post them anyway. Is there no way to just add them on here from my phone? Photobucket and Imageshak do not work for me.

Nope just Nope, I want to ride the bike not some bloody computer, if I fall off then I learn to get better this fools you into thinking your brilliant right up till your not. Much better to invent a centre stand that does'nt need you to be a weight lifter.

For anyone interested in rider to pillion communication I have got this,,,,,, "Interphone Connect Bluetooth Intercom" It is a brilliant bit of kit. Really clear sound. Also connects to phone, sat nav, other bikes if you want, waterproof and has built in radio. ect . Easy to fit into each helmet and so far perfect sound even at 70mph. I only wanted it so I could talk to my daughter on the back and make sure she was ok, and to be honest that's probably all I use it for (I'm not a teck lad),, but it will do lots more if you wanted it too. Little on the expensive side but worth it. Can get them on eBay, Amazon, Sports bike shop,,,,,,the usual places. Anyway if you're in the market for something like this,,,,, check them out Pat

Hi. Thanks a lot for your response. Just fixed it, after a week of head scratching and checking everything I found that the previous owner had reversed the cam on the advance unit…..no wonder it was a non-runner. I didn’t even know it came apart!

Never mind... Sorted! It appears that the local council does MOTs!

I have both a car and a bike with no fuel gauge. You quickly become good at working out how many miles you will do on a tank and adjusting it conservatively based on driving / riding style !

Yeah, that does look a little rough! And possibly like it's frame has been modified! lol. I like that you're apparently fixing some of it with a hammer though...

Halooo, still here, comment every so often. Need a meet, last proper one was Wales, there was a bit of a meet up, me and Paul with some of Andy's mates at the pub near Matlock.

I'm still here, Had no main bike for a year and a half but now I'm back with a versys 650

Strange that him and Kev disappeared at the same time

Very nice Dig, you did very well. Well Done mate.

Aaah! New pictures, excellent! lol On closer inspection, the 'spider' appears to do nothing other than hold in those (now obviously) removable pins... So no fault there. Yes, the nick appears to be machined, it's way too square cut to be wear... The fact that it works now when rebuilt in the same way, suggests that something was binding. Check to make sure there is absolutely no grit or foreign objects in the bottom of any of the locating shafts. Check there's no tiny nicks or foreign debris in the teeth of the two parts (polish with some 800+ wet&dry (wet) if required). Check there's no play in the two shafts in the casing. Am I right in thinking one of those dooberies (the one on the left in the original picture) has been re-welded? Check that the fit between the teeth isn't too tight (it looks tight). I think there's some old trick about being able to check interlocking teeth by operating them with a piece of paper in between... Maybe someone can explain the idea properly.

There's another topic which can be locked up. 10 years later...might be a record?

Hi Keith, Had similar issue with mine. I had to play with the pilot screw and idle screw a lot before she was reving ok. Started at the spec setting and then tweaked out from there until she idled and rev'd smoothly. Make sure she's warm before making adjustments. Haynes manual is invaluable. Hope that helps. Cheers, Clive

Hi there, yes if you run LED headlights the AC lighting coil won't light them up. But in theory that doesn't stop you running everything (all LEDs) off the battery and simple charge the battery from the charging coil. Back in 2011 I wrote a detailed write up about converting my DTMX from 6v to 12v long before it was available in kit form. You might find it of some interest. Give you some idea of what's involved. However, as Mark points out, worthwhile speaking to RexSpeed for sure. It's in the Workshop section.

great intro

You might want to close the topic too...

As y'all know, I have a 1998 Thunderace... It's THIS colour: Vivid Red Cocktail But..! There's ANOTHER one!!! VERY close to where I live, I see it sometimes on the way to work! It's even the same colour pattern!!! I don't know who he is or where he lives or how long he's had it, but it's really, REALLY strange seeing 'my' bike on the road! lol There's so few of them left, and this is the only other one I've seen in 'my' colours. I'm getting mine back on the road for the start of the season after riding my V-Strom for the last year. I'll surprise him one morning and drop into convoy..!

No reason to keep ALL of them stored! Get your ass out there!!!

Hi All, I've recently suffered a mid life crisis and bought a 1985 RS200 similar to the one I owned back when I was younger/happier. The bike is in very good condition overall, apart from the exhausts blowing slightly between the downpipes and and the silencers. I took off the silencers and found there were no gaskets between the downpipes and the silencers, which explains them blowing. I've spent hours online trying to find the gaskets but no luck so far. I phoned Fowlers Parts who were kind enough to dig out the microfiche for my model, but apparently the original gaskets have been discontinued. If anybody has any idea what I could use as replacement gaskets for the discontinued ones I'd be really grateful. Thanks, Stuart

Hi Neo, thanks very much for your research, it's much appreciated. I scraped the soot from the neck of one of the exhausts but it hardly made any difference to the diameter measurements, and I couldn't really feel much of a step inside the neck either so I'm not sure that a ring type gasket fits inside. I've used exhaust paste in the past to seal exhaust joints, but as you say it can be a real pain to seperate them again. A friend has suggested smearing Blue Hylomar on the downpipes before pushing the downpipes into the silencers. it doesn't harden and it copes with high temperatures. If it doesn't do the job at least it won't be a problem seperating the pipes again to clean it off. I hadn't thought about looking for a microfiche for the RS200 as I don't have access to a reader, but after you mentioned being able to read them using a loupe and a strong light I thought I'd have a look. I've now found and bought a microfiche for the RS200 from Germany. it's for a 1980 model, but has the 3L2 suffix so hopefully there won't have been too many model changes during the production run, besides it was only 11 quid so it hasn't broken the bank. As you've mentioned, once I have a part number I can start doing comparisons with other models. Thanks a million for all your help. You've pointed me in other directions that I hadn't thought about, hopefully one of them will lead me to a successful conclusion! All the best, Stuart

How did you find out what they were for? Did you scour ebay or something?

Hi everyone On Sunday was out on my 1998 YZF750R when I noticed the rev counter suddenly flick to 7000rpm then drop to show 0 rpm then a few seconds later ping up to 7000rpm again. The actual engine revs and power remained normal and no other issues apparent. On arriving home let the bike cool down, then turned ignition on. With the engine not running, the rev counter started cycling between 7000rpm and then back to 0 then 7000rpm again etc and repeat. Had a look on a online few threads noting that the "7000rpm" is a Yamaha diagnostic indication that points to a problem with the Exup system. So tank & fairings off and had a look. Examined the cable ends at the valve and one was badly frayed/rusty/stiff. Said cable has been removed and a new one ordered. I also removed both cable ends from the servo motor so the servo was free to operate. Then turned the ignition on thinking that the servo motor/pulley would now be free to rotate - which it did and I expected the 7000rpm tacho bounce would not be seen if a seized cable had been the problem. However...the tacho continued to bounce to 7000rpm back to 0...7000rpm again. So I though maybe there is a fault with the actual servo motor. I happened to have a spare motor I bought last year, so plugged that into the loom and turned ignition on. The fault remains just as before. I have checked the electric connections hooking up the Servo to the loom and all are clean and in good condition Beginning to wonder if the 7000rpm code might indicate some other problem. Any more ideas or things worth trying please? Thank you.

Aaaand... That appears to be all you're getting! lol I can't add much more, but I really can't see a 125 having the same sized wheel as a 650!

Thanks for those thoughts. Unfortunately the 1998 YZF is a very analogue beast, and there are just analogue clocks, and as far as I can see there is no diagnostic plug on the loom to plug-in a OBD reader. It might be possible to perform some kind of rudimentary manual "fault" reset via some particular sequence of turning ignition on/off combined with engine run/kill switch position or similar - however, that is a guess and I have been unable to find any information or manual that says there is a way to reset a "fault" condition on a 1998 YZF. The new cables are due in a day or so, and I'll re-install everything, plus connect up the fuel tank and fire her up. Maybe with everything put back together, with engine running the system will reset itself and the tacho 7000rpm bounce will stop I can add that the Exup Valve is completely free to rotate in its housing (I serviced it last year) and the servo motor is rotating when ignition is switched on. Thanks for your input.

Update. I think I have figured it out. After looking at the wiring schematic I thought the only thing that could be stopping it was cranking over / starting is the starting switch located in the voltage regulator. I took the regulator off, cleaned the contacts on the starting switch and reinstalled it. It worked, but no spark. I cleaned the contacts on the points and now I have spark. It wouldn't start, but I think that is a fuel issue. I am off to get some gas. I will update later. Thank you Neo for pointing me in the right direction.

Yamaha came through! They just e-mailed me the Service Manual. I am now the happy owner of mystical torque specs

Two wives decided on a girlie night out. On the way home they needed a pee and nipped into a graveyard. Then they realised that they didn't have any wipes to finish up, so the first one used her knickers, and the second one found a wreath and used that. The next day one husband rang the other and said 'No more girlie nights out, mine came home with no knickers on'. The other said, 'Well if you think that's bad mine came home with a card in her crack that said 'From all of us at the fire station - we'll never forget you.''

I hope this comes out as it so fooking funny. The Yorkshire accent makes this all the better w4POSqOqO2.mp4

im just doing this at the minute and seem to have similler problems, ive got a 2002 bike which has dropped the exhaust valve, so ive got a M reg 1995 engine which i have seen running fine and put that in, i have swapped the left hand casing and flywheel, so all the wiring matches up with the cdi etc, problem i have now is im getting a spark, got fuel, checked valve settings and timing and its all coming back fine, im slowly at a loss, ive got some spares so iv swaped, the carb, the coil, plug, cdi, etc to no avail. still the same issue, my next logic would be to say that the ignition timing could be out? can anyone help me on this? Cheers Dave

brill on a Katana of all bikes