Jump to content


YOC Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Snakebite68

  1. After a bit of a rummage on the interwebz, check out your fuel pump first, make sure it's chucking enough fuel...
  2. Snakebite68


    Not bad at all apart from the crack in the nose cone!
  3. Any bike, just have to be a full member here (shows you're more invested than the average guy with a helmet and something to do with it, or something)... But phone them up and get your quote FIRST, before telling them that you're a member. I may be paranoid, but there's no reason NOT to be lol.
  4. Get them put together, might have another bike there! lol
  5. It seems a fair assumption. On the other hand, have you looked at a multi-bike policy? Also, if you sub to this site, you get a discount with bikesure..!
  6. On the plus side, the shock linkages aren't expensive to pick up second hand, I ran out and got one with no problem.
  7. The blue spot callipers are damn good, if you think they're not quite up to snuff, time for a service. It's not hard, you can buy a tool (pad it when you use it, so you don't scratch up the blue bit)..! I've not had the guts to check my clutch yet. No idea when it was done last, but it's had some serious hammer for the last few years off me and doesn't seem to be slipping. So, I seem to be in an 'if it ain't broke, don't touch it' situation. Oh, for gods sakes, service that rear shock linkage! I had all sorts of trouble with mine after my swingarm stopped... (swinging)..! lol Ended up having to buy a new linkage, as apparently, my original one, had a machining fault. The central socket wasn't machined straight! Bloody typical! Anyway, they pick up a whole load of road crap, taking them apart now and again won't do them any harm at all..! There are 3rd party rear shocks out there, but unless you want to cough up some pretty serious cash, non of them seem to have the adjustability of the original. Which appears to be serviceable (by professionals).
  8. SEE! Some of these 1-2 post guys DO come back!!! I've not actually tried to post any myself yet, so I can't help you I'm afraid. But I'm sure someone will be along shortly to put you on the right track! Welcome back!
  9. Facebook is the spawn of the devil, mkay...
  10. Yes, that's what I'm afraid of... lol
  11. Hmmm... Sometimes, I wonder what Yamaha did with the original moulds! I wonder if they're in the back of a store room somewhere? lol
  12. I'm not certain what your actual question is... If you're asking if your YA6 only has 4 gears: Correct If you're asking if your YA6 is N and 4 down: Appears to be also correct. You've got a toe and heal gear shifter on it haven't you? Past that, if it works through all 4 gears nicely, don't worry about it...
  13. So, as has happened often in the past, I've just come across an advert for fairing kits from Aliexpress and wondered if they're any good..? They SAY it's compression moulded ABS... For example: "A random option in my Thunderaces colours" get rid of the link if I'm not allowed to post it. Has anyone in here actually ever bought fairing sets from these people? Anyone know if it's all just a big scam? I'm not normally gullible for online stuff, but, damn, I want some new fairings! lol
  14. Well, as I say, I'm no mechanic, but that's how I'd go about finding the problem. Good luck!
  15. Aaah! New pictures, excellent! lol On closer inspection, the 'spider' appears to do nothing other than hold in those (now obviously) removable pins... So no fault there. Yes, the nick appears to be machined, it's way too square cut to be wear... The fact that it works now when rebuilt in the same way, suggests that something was binding. Check to make sure there is absolutely no grit or foreign objects in the bottom of any of the locating shafts. Check there's no tiny nicks or foreign debris in the teeth of the two parts (polish with some 800+ wet&dry (wet) if required). Check there's no play in the two shafts in the casing. Am I right in thinking one of those dooberies (the one on the left in the original picture) has been re-welded? Check that the fit between the teeth isn't too tight (it looks tight). I think there's some old trick about being able to check interlocking teeth by operating them with a piece of paper in between... Maybe someone can explain the idea properly.
  16. Top picture: The legs on that 'spider' bit look worn. Bottom picture: There appears to be a worn nick out of the leaver. Not a clue whether these would be a problem, but, it might be worth looking into...
  17. Snakebite68

    New helmet.

    REALLY need a better bot filter! lol
  18. Could I have a picture of the shaft end WITHOUT the file in it and a picture of the back of the shifter please? It's probably nothing (I'm no mechanic), but I had a thought I wanna check with the pictures...
  19. Bot... And/or spam...
  20. I'm torn between saying: 1/ It's ok, it's only surface rust... 2/ DAMN! That's a lot of rust..! But I think I'm going to go with: 3/ Wherever that's been, it's been laid on its side or under a leaky roof!
  21. I doubt anyone on here will be checking a Chevy... Are you a bot? lol
  22. You might want to close the topic too...
  • Create New...