Classics

Hi, Does anyone have or know of blue bodywork available for a 1979 DT175MX? I am looking for side panels, tank but mostly mudguards. Cheers Nick

Hi all, The indicator needle on my speedo has stopped working although the km's are still ticking over. Does anyone know if this is repairable? I've got the glass off by lightly grinding around the ring ok but can't get the mechanism out as I can't see how to get the spindle of the trip knob out of the way. The plastic knob came off but I'm stuck on the rest. Would like to try to repair before trying to find another one. Plenty of MPH ones in the US but KMs look to be a bit more elusive. Seen a few posts on cutting them open but not on the guts of the mechanism. Thanks, Gordo

Hi all, I have been restoring the above over 10 years or so and now have a working..cough..bike. The only problem I have is that the bike runs fine on start up ..but if you put the choke in..it dies..instantly..the throttle is completely non-responsive. I am not a mechanic by any means, but I thought this may be fuel crystalised in the carb..if so, what do i use to clean it? Any ideas? Many thanks

Hello Everybody! I am new here and though this is my first post, I have frequently referred to these forums and found the member's and their advice to be extremely knowledgeable and helpful. Anyway, I've had my 1980 xs400 for just shy of a year now. Generally it has been running very good, but I've noticed that if I go for a ride, it starts to suffer from HIGH IDLE SYNDROME after about 10 minutes when it really starts to heat up. After researching online and in my haynes manual, I decided to take the carburetors apart to clean them since the last owner had it sitting for a long time. I thought the cleaning went well; I noticed there was some gunk on the upper par…

I recently bought an exciter sr250 and changed the oil then tried to drain the tranmission fluid but it was empty. Is there a bolt somewhere that serves as the fill bolt for that or is it in the same case as the engine oil? There's what looks like a fill hole on the left side of the bike but that's where the clutch cable attaches to.

I just put new tires on my custom cafe restoration project. Love the new rubber, but after a bit, I noticed that the bolts on my front fender are barely clearing my new rubber. Every once in a while after I hit a random pothole, I need to adjust it or I get rubbing issues. Im looking for a shorty chrome new front fender that isnt too costly and has more clearance. Has anyone had the same issue in the past or has some ideas? Thanks, Pete

Well I am new to the site, and I was hoping someone might be able to help me out with some info, I have a pretty war torn 1982 yz 250 that Im in the process of giving a little tlc. Im a pretty big guy and the rear mono shock is toast (my nuts did not appreciate my last ride) I was on ebay and there is a couple options for going with a rebuilt stock shock, but I was wondering if anyone knows of any aftermarket shocks from a larger bike or just another 250 that would be a direct bolt on, or with minor modification made to fit? kinda want to save my gents for the miss any help or info would be much appreciated.

Hello all, I would love to put some trun signals and a brake light on my TT 600 is this possible??

Hi all, Here's a nice looking DT100a on offer in Victoria that looks totally original and complete for 500 schmakos starting price: http://cgi.ebay.com....e=STRK:MEWAX:IT Nice to see that they still turn up from time to time....

I recently picked up a 1982 chappy that runs, barely. I am currently reading as much as the interwebs can tell me about carbs and rebuilding and where I can find parts. i stumbled on a fair amount of people who have straight replaced the stock card with a polini 19mm (i think) carb. question is, what do people think, is stock better or worse than a replacement as far as fit, jetting etc? Also on the side of the stock I have a vacuum hose missing, anyone know where it might connect to? I have checked parts fiches to no avail. It has the gas tie in, the air and the top all proper, but there is an extra hook-up next to gas in that is listed as vacuum and I have no…

i am looking for a DT125lc 1982 air filter box and a downpipe exaust cheep cheep,if theres any one out there that has got them email me [email protected] :twisted:

hi guys i have a dt50mx 1989 which has started running badly it will tick over all day but as soon as you started to rev it up, it will start cutting out and back firing. i have done a compression test it it said 150psi don't know what it should be? took the carb off and cleaned it out one of the jets where blocked i cleared the blockage still no joy. it has one of those k&n air filters onthis probly isn't helping, trying to get hold of the original airbox. any suggestions thanks

havent been on here for quit a while,thought Id pop in. Been busy building riding and playing with the bikes, GOD I love summer yay! Heres a ride vid ,, took this on the 78. Its a little wavey and im learning how to mix tunes and vids so its kinda amature. some pics, redid the bike in the vid slightly with black rims. and custom head pipe thats a red devil can on a mac header. still have the bobbed xs650. took an old MT250 honda and stuck it in an old hardtail , its a hoot. still tweeking it. Ive got a pesky leak in the oil injection between the pump and intake block that keeps outsmarting me. wi…

I'm rebuilding the top end of a 1974 TX500A. I'm ready to install the cylinder assembly and the head. The diagrams and shop manual show two o-rings on each cylinder stud. These o-rings appear to go on the top surface of the crankcase, below the paper gasket at the base of the cylinder assembly. There doesn't seem to be enough room for these o-rings. I'm afraid if I put them in and squish them, I will just tear the paper gasket. I notice that the 1976 XS500 doesn't show them at all on the parts diagram. I think one o-ring will fit on each stud. I got Yamaha OEM o-rings, so I think I have the right part. Any ideas?

Hello, I was trying to get some information on removing my 4 carburetor holders from my intake manifold on my 1979 Yamaha XS 1100 Special. My concerns is, they've been on this bike for over 30 years, is there anything I should do or not do to get them off? I'm concerned about the bolts being frozen inside the intake manifolds and looking for the best technique to remove them. Thanks, d-1

You can buy lots of bits for XS650s, such as tanks and seat and cosmetic parts. Will they fit XS850s, or are the frames totally different?

Here are some photos of my 1981 Yamaha XS400 Special I finished restoring. This was a 75 dollar barn find which barely ran and needed a lot of work. It originally had spoke wheels, leaky MAC pipes, and a terrible plastic fairing and side boxes from JC Whitney. It was almost parted out and was so bad I didn't take any pictures. The bike was stripped to the frame and rebuilt over a 3 month period. The headlight was not working, traced it to the diode in the headlight relay circuit. Overall it was rusty but never crashed. With 15000 miles on the engine a rebuild was not needed, but new gaskets and a chain/sprocket set were done. The wire wheels were re-spoked but th…

Hello I have a 83 Yamaha Virago 500 and have been looking for a fuel line diagram and found only a partial one but even local dealers cant help with any manuals. Does any one have any pictures or diagram something. I also am looking for possible tank fuel parts. Thank You

Hello Everyone - I just recently purchased a LB 50 chappy. I've noticed at times that it tends to pull to the left when I ride it. Does anyone have thoughts on why this might be? Is it related to the fork / tire / alignment? I've not really taken it apart yet to investigate. I wanted to try to research it first. Thanks, Brian

Hello everybody , i thought to write down my experience with the steering lock on my recently purchased chappy . The keys were missing so i only got a new central ignition lock but the key doesn't fit to the old steering lock . So until my new steering lock arrived i just disassembled the old lock . There is a little screw under the body , turn it out and then a spring will pop out . That spring presses a little metal pin that holds the key-hole inside the body. As the spring is out , turn it over and bang it a bit with a hamer . The pin should come out . Now pull gently the key-hole out and release all 4 little pins with their springs too. Insert the key…