Yamaha Workshop
Seek advice and share knowledge on motorcycle repairs, modifications, and troubleshooting, or learn from the expertise of fellow mechanics and enthusiasts.
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8,884 topics in this forum
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Hi all hope this is ok to post here I'm a new member I've got a 1993 Yamaha yzf750r out of the blue the indicators stopped working except the rear right also the horn has now stopped working all other lights still work I've put a new relay in checked fuses and for brakes in the wires can't find anything as anyone on here had a similar or same problem? Thanks in advance
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Wemoto is selling an allballs bearing chain roller. My original doesnt turn and the rubber is chewed to nothing. Are they any good? https://goo.gl/images/73iWdo
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Evening all, Noticed the DT was running rough on the way home from work, vibrations and a worrying rumbling noise lead me to believe it was worth taking a closer look. Pulled the head and barrel off and found lateral left to right play in the conrod caused I'm guessing by a knackered big end bearing. I'll split the case and get the crank sent off to have the bearing replaced. Can anyone recommend somewhere that would do a good job of this? no where in jersey can do it so it will be sent to the UK anyhow. Thanks, Ben
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Hi Guys Relatively new to the forum and VERY new to working on my bike...but trying to learn... So I was trying to remove my exhaust over the weekend to spray it (Matt Black).... The issue is that the bolts are well and truly rusted tight.... I sprayed them with WD40 and left them for about 20 mins for it to penetrate....then tried to remove the bolts... All you experienced guys know what's coming next no doubt.... One bolt snapped.....the other rounded....Grrrrrrr Soooooooooo.......what do I do? I am assuming I will need to drill the snapped one and cut and drill the rounded one but wont drilling wreck the inside thread that the bo…
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So I am not charging. I check the Ohm Reading from between the three yellow wires from the Stator and got 6.4 Ohm each time. Is my Stator totally fried? Thanks, Dan.
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Hello all. I have swapped an engine from a 99 sr125 into my 95 sr125. The swap was plain and simple. The engine was sat for some time. Before doing the swap the original engine ran fine. Please note that the new engine came with a carb aswell which i fitted. The engine turns over but doesn't start. There is no indication of ignition what so ever. I have the electrics wired correctly and have fuel and oil. There is a spark at the plug but the engine will not start. The air filter is clean. All hoses are in good condition and are not kinked or blocked. The battery is or was charged. I have been persistent enough to know that a little more effort with trying…
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Dear Yamaha owners I have a problem with my MT-03. I took the rear wheel off to replace the brake pads and noticed the cush drive rubbers were worn out. I replaced them, but I cant get my rear wheel back. There is not enough space between the swingarm: I lack about 1 centimeter.I have tried prying, pushing, wriggling... but I have given up for now. I always begin at the brake disc side, sliding it between the brake pads and fit the small spacer. But when I do that there is not enough space on the sprocket side for the bigger spacer. Is there something I'm missing? there is a gap between the rear sprocket assembly and the new rubbers, should there be no gap…
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hey guys, any of you know a good site to get some maps for my power tuner? i have ordered the tuner but unsure where t get maps? i know the yamaha website has some but surely people have worked out thier own? are they something you input yourself or do you have to dowload off the net onto the tuner itself? cheers for ya help. p.s. will be used on my 2016wr450 and sons 2014yzf250
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hi folks trying to pull of flywheel .got puller on but wont budge . any suggestions. ta alan
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Hello, newbie here just would like to ask and inquire if anyone has a SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM for DT200R SERVO... Thanks a lot and happy riding......
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Hi, Need a bit of help with this ... I cannot for the life of me get the valve gap adjustment caps (see photos) to unscrew. There is no room to get a socket on the caps - a 23mm spanner is too small and a 24 feels a little loose. With either a ring spanner, a set of robo-grips or an adjustable spanner I am starting to round off the corners. Getting heat onto it will be really tricky as it is so confined and it has an o ring inside I don't want to melt. These compress an o ring so I don't see why they would be so dam tight. Anyone know about this issue and/or how to deal with it? Thanks
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I have a 3cv front wheel of an fj1200 so I can fit a 17" front tyre on the TDM I'm trying to find out if they are C3 clearance. Normally I stay away from C3's as they are only realy used for engine componants that get hot and the clearance gets taken up. On a wheel that would make for a wobbly ride and detrimental on brake disks. Can anyone enlighten me if the FJ bearings are C3?
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hi folks Took off fuel pump 1992 virago 535 to test seems ok.when refitting lost the plot which was in and out .not paying attention.Help would be great Alan
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Hey I'm having some bike trouble, I broke down 2 days ago bike but shut down mid ride wouldn't start up again, got it home it started on the kick start but wouldn't idle, I tried it about an hour ago and it started and idled and rode, I changed the oil in it and it will not start period as if battery is dead but I've had it on the charger, it's not dead, I'm thinking could be not getting a spark? I don't know much about mechanically, any help would be amazing the bike is a YAMAHA YBR 125 07.
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Hi, I have dismantled the front forks to change the oil seals and got a bit of a surprise. There seems to be a double seal. The top seal came out OK ( size as expected, 31x43x12.5 ) but it sits in a steel bush which has another seal in it. I have managed to damage this. My question is, is this second seal part of the steel bush and should I be trying to remove it or do I just put a new, normal seal in? The bike is a 2K4 series ( with matching frame and engine numbers ) which I bought a few years ago from Germany. I think the forks are original but they don't match exactly any of the the picks in my Haynes manual so I'm stuck. Thanks for any help. Nick.
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Hi folks having problems navigating site .Hope I'm on the right track now. Wonder if any of you folks can help with no spark. Ignition coils ok pickup coil ok.Power going into igniter unit but not coming out .friend of mine put signal to the out side of igniter and we got spark.not sure what that means.any help would be appreciated thanks alan
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Hi I’m having some trouble with my bike... 1) When rolling the rear wheel in neutral there’s a “clicking sound” which sort of sounds like it’s coming from the front sprocket. It’s not as bad since I tightened the chain 2) I reduced the slack in my chain because for some reason it was 75mm! I reduced it to 25mm, rode it for about half an hour and checked it again and it had already slackened back to 35mm, which is outside of the range...? (Ok, so 35mm isn’t bad, but surely that isn’t normal?). I made sure everything was fastened up properly after I adjusted the chain. 3) When I go to rotate the rear wheel I can hear a squeaking noise right at the start comin…
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Just trying to get the bike running before I start cosmetic work on my yb00; previously coil would produce a bright blue park when kicked over (plentiful for it to run) now with all the wiring connected properly it will not produce any spark.. could this be a faulty coil. The neutral light comes on briefly then shortly dies which is indicating that there is electricity being generated.
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Hello, i have run into a problem with my powervalve cdi unit. the unit that controlls the wires that controll the powervalve. The thing is that, it worked before i started to trying to fix it, but i wasnt working propperly. i wonder do they still make this type of stuff? or a replacement part. Anyways at the first it when i turn on the ignition, the cdi unit tryed to do a clear circle but it just lagged front and back and stopped. I tryed to touching the cabels and the cdi started to go mad. and i cut som of the cable and fitted on new connectors, and it stopped working. maybe all the cables are rusted inside and need a replacement? is it possible to weld …
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Hi guys, I have this engine in my Yamaha U5. I know its not the factory engine as the code they start with is F5... from all Ive managed to read its from a YG1 but any info would be appreciated. Cheers! Code is G2-303415
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