Yamaha Workshop

i have a 1989 fzr 400 exup 3en2 the exup valve had been played with by a jackass who filed the valve for whatever reason the bike just wouldnt run properly no matter what i tried so i have now removed the butchered valve and cables and as you would expect low to mid range running is all over the shop can anyone supply information on re-jetting ( jet sizes / settings etc ) or any other methods of improving low to mid performance without losing too much top end ? this is not a track bike but i am a fast road rider who would also like to use the bike around town without having to rev the nuts off it !! any help or info greatly appreciated , thanks .

ive looked for a dt 230 engine but cant find any within the uk looks like there rare so im going to have to get the 170cc kit now i know how to fit it and im going to replace the bottom end and clutch (and the oil as some idiots rounded the sump bolt) aswell just to be on the safe side i just have one question if im correct (correct me if im wrong) the standard jet is a 210 in dt stock carb's would you recommend just up jetting one size or a few?

hi i've got a question. i took my rear wheel off my girlfrends dt 125 r 1996 model and found the threads on the spindle stripped off so i brought a secondhand one of ebay in good condition its exactly the same apart from it has'nt got the hole in the end of the spindle where the split pin goes in. is this safe to use as long as i tighten it up to the right torque .or does it need the split pin to stop it coming undone? any help would be appreciated thanks

Right, The college has given us at motorcycle workshop a ybr 125 2007 fuel injected model to take part in a 4 stroke race (lecture is racing it) and given each group £1500 The ybr 125 is currently stock standard Help with parts which we can get as winner group has 1/4 chance of winning this bike 4 people in group short straw

I'm on my second chain and sprocket set since March, the latest one is a top quality one and I have had to tighten it three times already from getting it a few months ago. The problem is there is not enough space left at the end of the swing arm to keep tightening it, therefore before long I will be on set number three! I regularly clean and lube the chain with good quality lube.

So i've been thinking of this a lot lately. Its been a while since i've had the old ball bearing races taken off the steering stem. Well with the all balls tapered bearings the bottom of the stem has a small space of maybe two quarters. I want to say thats just where the original seal was. My problem is that the upper set is taller than the original only allowing a few threads to grab on the nut. Is this going to be something i need to be concerned about? I don't see it loosening up and i do know that some people say its normal for the upper set to be taller but i feel like the nut should at least be level with the threads at the top. I can get it machi…

i have a dtr 125 54 plate it used to start firt turn even when cold.. went out to go for a blast the other day and it would not start.i took out the key and the lights and neutral light on the clocks were still lit. the bike starts when bumped and if i jump it it starts aswell but as soon as it stops it will not start again even aftewr a long run out..

hi, ive had the DTR for about 3 weeks now and there's a couple of little things ive noticed and am not to sure about as Im a carpenter not a mechanic lol, firstly the exhaust manifold, I was riding home one day and noticed a rattling noise coming from the exhaust, when I got home I took a look and noticed where it bolts on to the engine it was loose and moving slightly when the engine is running causing the rattling noise so I tightened it up, however!! when I took it out to see if it fixed the noise ( it did! ) the bike started losing power and just started dying, took it home loosened it back off and it was fine again, but it rattles all the time when im riding, any ide…

Hey guys, Was wondering what would be the best way for me to clean up the tarnish & corrosion from various places on my bike. I've tried Brasso wadding on the rims, spokes & engine, but it doesn't really seem to do anything. The rims and the spokes should be a mirror-like finish. In one of the pictures below, you can see where I used some wire wool on the starter motor, and the spot that I did cleaned it up really nicely, but I'm not sure if it's the best material to be using. Would it be taking off too much material, like the zinc coating, or whatever is used to protect the metal from rust & corrosion, etc.? Nasty looking rim and spokes. …

Well i have a TON of picutres to upload on here. Pretty much all 90 some pictures are on facebook so i'll post a few on here in a bit. But my work for the day was re-sealing the cases. For the first time ever i used anarobic sealant. I've never actually used it. I always use hondabond or the grey diesel sealant we have at ford being its about the same identical stuff. I was talking to one of the tranny guys at work about sealing cases and he mentioned that i may want to try anarobic sealant. Because of the bearing clearances when sealing a case anarobic is thinner and easier to manipulate since it only dries in the absense of oxygen. He also used to work at …

hi thanks for looking as am after a bit of help i bought a ybr 125 for my son too learn on when he is 17 in june anyway i bought a 2005 ybr 125 the problem i have is the bike will start and run fine using te kickstart there is no nuetral light working though when not in gear so maybe this is why the starter motor isnt engaging the engine??? when i press the starter button the starter spins but doesnt seem to engage engine as makes no effort to turn engine over any ideas people as really would like everything to work for him thanks

Hi everyone, Okay so bit of a dilemma, came home from work on my dragstar Friday afternoon with some rattle cans. I put some new handlebars on her recently, some Z mini apes, because the bars I had previously contacted the tank at full lock (instant MOT fail). Bars were just bare metal, so I wanted to prime them - took them off, sanded them down, couple coats of primer. Same story with the battery box covers/side panels, sanded and primed. Put it all back together and the bike won't start. In total, I'd spent roughly 1 and a half hours working on it. It was working fine before that. The lights work, horn works, starter motor works, and the engine turns over on the…

Hi all in the process of doing up a couple of TZR's and I am struggling to find something that will fit the top of the forks as a dust cap. Just wondering if anyone knew of another bike's dust caps that would fit?

Hi everyone, The bike is failing to start after being sat for a long time. Spark plugs have been replaced but am now thinking that the carb has gunked up. I don't have a great amount of experience with working on bikes, so would greatly appreciate some advice on how to remove the carb. If you follow this link, I've taken pictures of the manual which shows you which bits to take off matched with the parts it is on my bike. I wasn't 100% sure if the parts I'd found on the bike matches those on the manual. http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/alex_evans1/library/?page=1 If you guys could take a quick look at the pictures to see if I've matched them up oka…

Riding on the motorway and my rear wheel bearing thought it was the perfect time to go. Guess it's time to replace them so I managed to get the one that didn't brake off first. Having issues with the one that did go, it's really stuck in there. Can't seem to get the bearing housing to catch when trying to push from the other side. As you can see from the picture below, the end with the stuck bearing is completely flat/worn away so I'm not able to drive it out. Looking at it through the other end (where the first bearing was and taken out first). Anyone got any ideas on how I could take this stuck bearing out? Thinking of maybe cutti…

It seems the new front sprocket bolt holes are slightly smaller and in turn the sprocket holder doesn't exactly match up. At first I thought it was my stupid idea to use R version sprocket kit that's the problem here but turns out it's not. I looked up the Yamaha Original part numbers for the bolts and the sprocket holder for XT 125 X/R 2008 and they are exactly the same. The highlighted part numbers are the same for both X and R. The sprockets I ordered are by JT Sprockets and when I looked up the front sprocket sizing on their website, they are also exactly the same: XT 125 X 2008 and XT 125 R 2008. Now this is what I received. The new front sproc…

Hi, I was wondering if it is a simple job or not to change both chain and sprocket on my ybr? Thanks.

A little help please I have 1979 dt175 with a giannelli front and tail pipe Does anyone know if there should be any carb changes (pilot, needle, main jets etc) Or any air box mods. Mine came with standard jets and needle position (main jet I think 140 my Haynes doesn’t quote a size) but the air box had been drilled with six 12mm(ish) holes. The trouble I have is in starting It will start with no choke but only after kicking it enough times to shatter yer kidneys And that’s even in the cold weather we are having now, any hint of choke and the engine just dies All jets and holes are clean the issue I have it tends to overflow petrol when on the side…

Replaced the flasher relay, left hand indicators wont work, right hand flash very quickiy, anyone know how to fix?

Im new to biking and have a YBR 125 (love it) developed a problem this morning on my way to work the back brake locked making the bike obviously very hard to move, managed to get it home but im stumped! The brake is on even when the pedal is lifted, have greased all movable parts (except brakes obviously) but its made no difference, any ideas??