Jump to content

MY BLOODY BIKE!!!


christofeser
This post is 4921 days old and we'd rather you create a new post instead of adding to this one. You can't reply in this post.

Recommended Posts

Okay so I had what I thought was a reg/rect problem, which turned into a battery problem, which now I think is something worse.

I have changed both of these and it still wont start properly. Even with a new battery it in it struggles to start and only starts once. Say if I rode it round the block it will start again cos its already going but if i go anywhere it wont start again.

The guy at the battery shop said that it could be that my starter is pulling too much current?? Could that be right? Could it be something worse? The motor turns over, but doesnt have enough "oomph" to start it :(

PLEASE HELP GUYS :)

chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you want an ad-free experience? Join today and help support the Yamaha Owners Club.
  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Are you using the choke?

Are your plugs good?

Are your tank and the fuel in it clean?

Are the oil and air filters clean?

Are the carbs clean?

Are the air/fuel mixture and idle properly adjusted?

Most of these will cost nothing to sort out.

If it turns over, that suggests the starter motor is fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you using the choke?

Yes

Are your plugs good?

I think so? How often should they be changed?

Are your tank and the fuel in it clean?

I would assume so? How can I tell????

Are the oil and air filters clean?

Probably not... never changed. How can fix??

Are the carbs clean?

Again, I don't know... How to check?

Are the air/fuel mixture and idle properly adjusted?

Lastly, I have no clue how to check it...

I can bump start it fine and it runs nice though.

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i replaced reg/rec and battery on my 535 a while back,had the same problem as yourself, turns out the battery was defective,one of the cells wouldn't charge.got a replacement from shop and a free couple of plugs .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've changed the battery, charged the battery, etcetc...

When I try and start it it just doesnt sound like the motor has the juice?

It's really really really annoying me and I just want her fixed :(

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had same problem with mine (93 xv535) got new battery and it would still not start, bump start fine and run fine, stop bike and wouldnt start again, got a new battery warranty and it's absolutely fine now, cell gone in the battery it would hold some charge but not enough to start it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've stuck it on charge again and if, when fully charged, it starts it, I will draw to that conclusion.

If not, I'll commence further investigation...

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With mine even after it was on charge all night it wouldn't start the bike and we're talking about a battery that was only a few days old, when I got a replacement under warranty it was perfect no more problem. That's when I was told a cell was gone in the other battery and that's why it wouldn't start the bike! There was enough power for the lights but that was about it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What state is your main earth lead and it's connections in? These are right buggers for corrosion to the point where even the best battery will struggle to get the power pushed through.

It's the thick black one from the -ve on the battery to some point on the frame/engine - make sure the connections (at both ends) are clean and shiny - a quick buff-up with some emery paper works wonders. Then do the same for the starter motor connections.

Then, when they're all clean and tight, give 'em a splodge of Vaseline over the connection to stop (or at least slow down) further corrosion.

That's the ONLY reason I've got a pot of Vaseline in my shed, honest!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay update.

I just took it down to the local battery warehouse (yes, fortunately for me, there's a whole warehouse about 2 miles down the road).

We hooked it up, and he said that the starter is drawing too much current for the battery supply. In fact, when we tested it, it draws the same amount of current as a car starter motor!

He said the easiest way to fix this is with a new starter. funfunfun.

The earth thing sounds interesting though... because theres a bit of corrosion around where the lead goes into the starter motor and it gets quite hot (lots of resistance probably)...

Any light shed??

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay update.

I just took it down to the local battery warehouse (yes, fortunately for me, there's a whole warehouse about 2 miles down the road).

We hooked it up, and he said that the starter is drawing too much current for the battery supply. In fact, when we tested it, it draws the same amount of current as a car starter motor!

He said the easiest way to fix this is with a new starter. funfunfun.

The earth thing sounds interesting though... because theres a bit of corrosion around where the lead goes into the starter motor and it gets quite hot (lots of resistance probably)...

Any light shed??

Chris

If the connections are corroded there will be a huge current draw .... it's a bit like sucking a really thick milkshake through a narrow straw, also known as Ohm's Law (here's the Physics bit):

In a perfect world a 12v 10A starter would have a resistance of 1.2 Ohms, if you double the resistance in the circuit because of corrosion, the current available drops to 5A, the other 5 being eaten up by the nasty stuff, which converts electrickery to heat.

So .... clean all those connections until they gleam, then try again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay update.

.

The earth thing sounds interesting though... because theres a bit of corrosion around where the lead goes into the starter motor and it gets quite hot (lots of resistance probably)...

Any light shed??

Chris

yep with you on that pete i think he answered his own question with the quote above some corrosion and getting hot, far cheaper than replacing parts and then finding its no better

Link to comment
Share on other sites

make sure all the connections are clean (wire brush them if you have to) and also make sure that all the plugs are in properly! if you have gone through everything that you can and nothing works and you need a starter motor then pm me (iv got one in the shed that works fine that i can sell u) but make sure that there is no other possible cause! dont want you spendin cash when you dont need to, probably a good idea to get some new spark plugs to be on the safe side and clean the air filter. also check the cable comming from the starter motor! undo it, wire brush it, then put it back on!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay so i just brushed them down quickly...

Sticking the battery on charge now so will try when I go to footie later. Hopefully will work :S

If not, how much dya want for the starter? I've found a new one for £69.99 which looks like a safe bet (I can send it back if its perhaps a worse problem??)

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, seems you've got some leads (pun intended) on the issue.

For future reference:

>I think so? How often should they be changed?

As often as neccesary.

However, I have only changed mine once in 40,000 miles.

Use Google Images to find a spark plug condition chart - This will show you (in colour) the various states a plug can get into and what the causes are. Check every 3 months.

>I would assume so? How can I tell????

Close off the fuel tap.

Take off the hose and drip a small amount of fuel into a clean, clear container (a glass or test tubes are good). Hold up to the light and examine. It should be free of particles.

>Probably not... never changed. How can fix??

Take old ones out, put new ones in.

Some filters can be cleaned. I tend not to bother. I just switch them over during annual service.

>Again, I don't know... How to check?

Open them up and see if they're full of crap.

Usually there's a load of black dusty particles inside. Again, clean out as part of your annual service.

>Lastly, I have no clue how to check it...

To start with, find the adjustment mechanism (mine's a screw) in the manual. The manual should say which way to adjust for more fuel or more air.

Have a fiddle and see if it runs better one way or another. You can also use a ColorTune kit from your local auto shop for an approximate calibration.

Then do the same fiddle test with the idle.

However, to get this spot on, you will need either a professional tune up, or the kit to do so. Both are available, but they cost more than a few quid, usually.

I'm keeping to just the cheap stuff for this particular post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers mate very useful...

I'm going to service it soon I think :)

I'll get my mechanic to have a look at the carbs and see what is happening there.

Cheers buddy

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clean/fresh petrol is the same colour as light champagne :farmerjohn:

not the colour of red bull-petrol in a tank will deteriorate after 2 weeks - "tweekths' as my m8 says

but heeth got a speeth impedement

Hope thith helpth :bag:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doesn't work. Still.

:(

Paul if ya can ring me later I have a suggestion about that motor.

07898188225, for the world.

Thanks every1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Read this about plugs bro..

http://www.aa1car.com/library/cm1196.htm

It says if the gap is wide or the plug is corroded that will draw more current from the ignition coil.

Perhaps you could repair the starter...get brushes and coils checked..here my electrician does all that..when my rectifier / battery was down I could bump start and ride till the battery completely died...again once the battery was up I could self-start and ride..again it stops at 2-3 kms.

However, riding long with a bad rectifier can kill your battery as I heard then AC current comes directly to your battery (correct me if am wrong)

do all the things people here have said..if it still doesnt work..as I had told you before..hook up some second good battery and see if the self starter works..and see when reving if the battery is being charged..although parts are new..they still can have manufacturing faults...

Use a volt meter when reving engine on battery electrodes..it should remain around 13.5v if rectifier working properly and the battery is good..

if both good...turn to spark plug check and many others guys have suggested..all my similar issues went ok once I replaced my rectifier..

Starter motor may have corroded inside or brushes may have worn out..its armature may be of high friction so that more battery power needed??? Can someone repair that for you???

By the way I replaced my rear sockets at last! Original Japanese cost me around 90 USD... B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doesn't work. Still.

:(

Paul if ya can ring me later I have a suggestion about that motor.

07898188225, for the world.

Thanks every1

Battery on charge at 5.57

Battery back on bike 7.56

2 hours? Give it a chance, leave it on charge for at least 24 hours.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...