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Everything posted by neversaydie

  1. Sort out the part nos from here, then get searching on the web, they may be common to other bikes. Try ringing around breakers yards too. For the wheels and spokes, there are couple of well known suppliers that advertise in Classic Motorcycle Mechanics monthly magazine. Stafford Bike Show is on in July too, you could have a rummage around there, you never know, you may turn something up
  2. Dash looks the same as my FZ6 S2. On mine, code ER-1 is "no communication or unreadable communication between ECU and instrument cluster - engine will not run". Causes are " faulty wiring or wiring connector - damaged instrument cluster - damaged ECU". As your instrument cluster appears to have several cracks in the screen, I suggest you start at the cluster.
  3. http://yamaha-virago.blogspot.com/2018/10/induction-coils.html Cross reference the part numbers and models, the info is there Dont mention it
  4. I take the fairings (lowers) off my fazer, slip rubber gloves over the exhaust outlets, rinse with cold water, wash with whatever ive got at the time, chammy off what I can get at, then blow dry with the compressor. Leave it a day or two, then cover over the brakes/wheels, seat off, using a low pressure spray gun (5psi), spray all over with ACF50. Leave a day, then wipe off any excess which has formed. I pivot the tank and get underneath that too, all around and under the swinger, get it right into the engine, and particularly the manifold area, as the clamp bolts are notorious for corroding.
  5. Personal choice really I suppose, like how much high viz do you want to wear. If theres a twat on his phone behind you, it may make no difference as hes not looking anyway. Not for me.
  6. Hope you find it. I had one for 5 years, before I traded it in. Absolutely belting bikes for 80s air cooled. Its been for sale twice since for over twice the money I traded it for, and I came so close to buying it back, but decided against as subsequent owners looked to have neglected it somewhat, and I couldnt afford to buy it and throw money at it again
  7. Have a look here https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xj750r-seca-1982-c-usa_model8879/partslist/?filter_assembly_group=electrical#.YBA_juj7SUn
  8. Battery. Needs to be fully charged. Check the terminals are secure, clean and dry.
  9. Try here https://www.manualslib.com/manual/612293/Yamaha-Ybr250.html. Good luck with the trip
  10. Thats a neat little piece of work. I'll bear that in mind if my hands get any worse. Bit of arthritis, but plagued with trigger finger at the moment, and cant get either an NHS or private session to correct it in the foreseeable future. But I'm countin my blessings as so far we're covid free
  11. Just checking in, still Covid free Have as good a Christmas as you can all. Stay safe
  12. Look under the tank and double check to make sure you haven't trapped or pinched a fuel pipe
  13. 1970, and fed up with push biking 4 miles to work and back every day, no car licence yet, so took a C50 of my workmate who no longer wanted it. It worked fine, just the kickstart was broken. Id put it into second, walk with it a couple of paces and it would fire up. Ha dit nearly two years, never failed, all I did was fuel it up. How I wish I still had it. Passed my driving test in 72, cars right up to 2009 Nottingham City Council got me back onto two wheels when they brought in the tram/car park tax. Principles meant that I would not pay it, so bought a Dragstar 125 and passed my t
  14. Shouldnt be lumpy, my old one was nice and smooth. If youve no service history, then Id give it a full service first off, and check the carb rubber for cracks/leaks. Get it running right first
  15. HMMM. Ugly. Not keen at all on this type of look, looks kind of unfinished, and I wouldn't want to try and hang on with no fairing. Seems a modern trend that to make machines rideable, you have to buy the "accessories", comfort seat/suspension etc
  16. It may be the side stand switch itself. Mine failed on a trackday, randomly cutting out, then powering back up. Prove this by bypassing the switch. Disconnet the plug where the switch joins the loom, fit a jumper between the plug on the the loom to simulate the switch.
  17. Thats a lot of work. Fatter wider wheel will likely mean a different axle/spacers/chain run/ rear brake disc and caliper etc. Handlebar change is likely to need different length clutch and brake cables, and the bikes handling may be affected too. If you're confident though, go for it
  18. Not missed one for years now, until this year. Had tickets World Superbikes and BSB at Donny Park too this year. Only got one trackday in because of trying to shield family members, and the bike broke down 2nd session, day over. Got one booked for this Monday though, hope the weather holds up Stay safe all
  19. Yey, Bangers. Great fun. Loved Jumping Jacks too
  20. Double check that the clips to pinch arent round the other side. If they are, just twist the clip around till you can get bat them. If its a wire type clip, just snip it with a pair of cutters. Measure the outside diameter of the pipe before you buy a replacement clip. Careful pulling the pipe of the elbow, the pipe is pushed over a step on the elbow in order to seal. A small Jubilee Clip of the right size will do ya, dont overtighten it
  21. neversaydie

    main stand

    Check the part nos on the CMSNL website
  22. Depends if digital ones are available for that model, and how much they are
  23. Drain all the old fuel and put some fresh in. Clean the plug/fit new plug, make sure the battery is good and fully charged. Check the air filter is clean. Modern fuel goes off and absorbs moisture
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