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As Sacha says PLEASE do an intro, but this little bike seems sound no major problems with it that jump out at you, as long as you service it and take the usual care of it it should last you at least 3 or 4 years with no major bills. It is quite a smart little bike to with lots of storage and plenty of gismos attached fuel guage/dash display & several other bits and bobs that will keep you happy for quite a while, 2 or 3 grand seems about the right money for it. Hope that helps? P.S. if you stick around on this forum over the years you can pick up lots of info on your bike and that can save you pounds on servicing and repairs, what I'm saying is don't be a ONE HIT WONDER.

As Cynic says you have to find out whats stuck before you can repair it, if it's a piston then it's a complete tear down same for crank shaft (big end) just start taking stuff off until you can move it there's no other real way to find out I'm afraid.

Hi Colt, Check the battery then the fuses then ALL of the earth points (clean & grease) brake light might just be that the switch is stuck open so give it a tap to see if it will go off if not take it apart and regrease it, check that the bulbs in the instruments are actually working it might be that just cos the Ignition light don't come on that it's blown and does in fact work ok, In the USA I believe the lights come on when you turn the ignition on so the REAR BRAKE light MIGHT be in fact the side lights or running lights, hope some of that helps mate, plus STAY AWAY from the MOUSE PISS it is toxic and can give all sorts of diseases WHILES DISEASE for one which is very nasty and can kill if untreated, give all the bikes a thorough wash down with soap and a jet washer BEFORE you start work.

Hi, I agree with you that running in is a bit confusing but I always look at it like this, if you have just rebuilt your motor or have the head or barrels skimed then it needs some gentle(?) running for the engine to settle in, but with some of the latest auto scooters for instance they don't move till you have at least 5K on the clock so how can you run it in at under 5K, so I always try to run the motor without overstressing it just common sense really don't rev it's head off and don't run it in to low a gear cos both of those will kill any engine, other than that keep an ear out for horrible noises and treat it carefully for a few hundred miles till it's well bedded down, change the oil and filter after that and it should be fine for the next few years. And DON'T forget to retorque the head bolts after the first few miles.

Don't understand that, I just bought "er indoors" a birthday pressie and cos it was over the limit I had set they called to verify payment, without my code (sent via email) they would not make a payment, check your account is not set to "OPEN" as this means any payment goes through without a check back on the phone. If in doubt give them a call on the blower and ask how to set it up I found them really helpful.

No offence in changing the clock but if you try to sell it without telling the new owner the correct mileage then that becomes an offence, your old MOTs will verify the correct mileage anyway so as long as you keep them and pass them on your in the clear. Insurance companies are only interested in how MANY miles you do in a year (dispatch rider and such) not how many miles the bike has done.

Hi Peter, With the way they are cutting police numbers it really will not matter, I travel down the M4 M3 and M27 on a fairly regular basis and have yet to see a cop car at all, so if it goes from 60 to 40mph on rural roads there won't be anyone to notice if you perhaps go a LITTLE faster. Having said that if it saves just one life it's probably a good thing for the person who does not die? Although most of those who do crash their motor on these roads are probably those who have no idea how to control their car in the first place and truth be told are little batter than a gold fish when it comes to brain cell numbers.

Hi silverstreak, Not an answer to your question I'm afraid but IF you do an "INTRO" in new members section then people will talk to you about your problem, LOTS of owners of your bike on here but they are reluctant to talk to people who DON'T give an intro. More a courtesy thing really as it's nice to know who your taking to and they are not a one hit wonder.

Hi Mallory, I have a VIPER RS V121 BLUETOOTH 2 FLIP HELMET great helmet bit cheap and cheerful but it works fine and sound is adequate when on the move mic is quite close to the right side of your mouth so it's easy to be heard when the front is down with the flip front open you have to slow down of course but it still works ok, I believe these have been updated in the last couple if years so might be much better or not. It's always worth a look.

Under "DISTANCE SELLING" regulations they MUST honour the price that the item was offered at BUT you have to prove that the price you paid is wrong, you can go to the trouble of contacting Citizens advice or Trading standards but they will want a bill that says what you are telling them so no bill no refund, not a nice way to end it but I think your stuffed. You could talk to your credit card people but they will only refund if it don't arrive or is faulty. My advice go round and demand your money back and make lots of noise in their shop right out in front of all their customers, you still might not get it back but it will make you feel so MUCH better. P.S It might be an idea to get all of us to send them an email saying we will never deal with them due to their shoddy treament of you, it might work?

Nor me I'm afraid, when your dead you stay dead and don't come back for seconds anything else is wishful thinking, can you imagine it really, stuck in an eternity when most people get bored on a rainy Sunday!! more like HELL I should think. If you belive in a GOD then good luck to you I suppose it gives you something to do on a Sunday? :biglaugha:

Pretty bike but when they put POA on the price tag you just know that it's gonna be mega money, oh well you can always dream!

Course you do sorry I am totaly wrong (not for the first time) forgot the 650 had a chain must be my age creeping up on me, sorry Kevin I will sit at the back of the room now with my new pointy hat!!!

Mine was a wreck when I got it and it needed more than a bit of fettling (complete rebuild actually) but if it's just a bit worn and each dent scrape or mark is there cos you put it there then leave it alone, you see these things that look like they just come out of the factory that are 30 or 40 years old and you have to wonder where has the soul of the bike gone? someone used it and loved it and had fun on it and if it aint broke why fix it? If you own a museum and want a pristine example then yes you rip it apart and then rebuild it to look like new but I just want to ride it.

Hi Kevin, Foamy is right (AGAIN!!) but when you take the tank off make sure you remove the vaccum pipe (upper one) first as if you have it on RES it will spit out fuel from the fuel line if you do it the other way round, the PRI setting is to let you refill the carbs if you have had them off or have run out of fuel, as this bike is new to you make sure you check the rear drive shaft oil level and change the oil at the service intervals it should give trouble free drive but if you let the oil get low it will bite you in the arse, hope you have a good Haynes or similar manual cos some of the bits on the bike need regular fettling, nothing major but if you do regular maintenance it should run with no problems.

Hi Kevin, there should be a wire that runs from the sender to the connector under the seat right near where the tank attaches to the frame, if you look under the tank to the right you will see the sender unit and the associated wire & that should lead you to the connector, not all of the bikes had the sender unit in them and of course if someone has changed the tank out over the years then it might not be there at all, it's not that acurate anyway to be honest and it only lets you know there is fuel in the tank which you can find out for yourself if you look in the filler hole so pretty pointless really! good luck with your strip down and good news about the head stock bearings, I assume you did do them both top & bottom?

HI Shaun, If you can grip it then HEAT the head around the stud and get the biggest pair of mole grips you have and SLOWLY and CAREFULLY try to wind it out but be careful not to snap the stud off as this will leave you with a whole other set of problems, some suggest welding a nut on to the stud and then trying to wind it out but I have never had much luck with that but it might be worth a try. Hope that helps?

Hi Kevin, Foamy is right take the bearings out and have a look at the inner ball race, I have an XJ 750 which is very similar to your bike so if you get stuck give me a shout, the bearings on my bike are loose roller bearings so when you take the top off watch out for the buggers rolling all over the floor, if your lucky you will have the encased type of bearing and if this is notchy you will have to replace it don't even think about greasing it and shoving it back as it will fail the dreaded MOT, other than that you will be amazed at the bikes performance compared to modern bikes it will shit all over most of them and will put a grin on your face every time you take it out. Oh and one other thing check the rear swing arm movement and make sure that it don't move side to side, bikes with drive shafts tend to put a bit more strain on the bearings here than chains, don't know why but there you are, it's easy to adjust the free play out and while your at it put in loads of grease to keep the crap out.

Hi Dwayne, I don't think that the tank sender has any affect on the fuel flow, especially on a bike of that vintage, so I would think that your problem is that one of the floats in your carbs is stuck down or that the tap (petcock) is faulty, try GENTLY tapping the sides of your carbs to see if the float will drop back into it's proper position, if not then you will have to take the carbs off and do a strip down to get at the offending part it might be something really easy to fix or a complete bugger to solve but try the simple approach first. Wish you luck, if you still have a problem then come back and we can try something else.

Noise your buggered now Sacha has got you in her sights. :biglaugha:

Welcome to the YOC SI, nice to have new people join in.

I'm with you Noise, about bloody time they got the right to give someone a clip round the ear back and some common sense out in the real world instead of some smart arse ACTIVIST/DOGOODER telling them they need to be more aware of the peoples rights, what about the right of a copper to NOT have his working day spent being sworn at or spit on, how many of you would like to go to work knowing that people (there is another word for them) can spit on you and call you anything they like and you can't do anything about it cos it's not PC and you might UPSET them, I have 2 sons and both would see the back of my hand if they behaved like some of these oiks. People have rights to be left in peace but coppers have the right to be treated with common descency to. PS if you wear a camera on your lid like I do that seems to stop a lot of the daft things that road rozzers come up with.

DId you see Rossi the other weekend when he fell off? he wears the best that you can buy and he still had no arse in his trousers when he walked back to the pit, if it's fast enough then as Ttaskmaster says it will wear through.

If you like it and it seems ok buy it and have some fun. Sod the mileage.

In that case you have no choice but buy the bloody thing no matter the cost if she moans about it on a short journey then a trip through France which should be wonderful will be horrible, but don't forget to keep telling her how concerned you were about her being comfortable at every opportunity as then you MIGHT! get your butt rubbed. :biglaugha: