Cynic

Air leak if there are no cable/carb issues. Could be a gasket, carb rubbers, even the crank seal behind the mag. get squirting with wd40, that will show if its a gasket/seal leak. One thing you can rest easy on, we know exactly what bike your talking about, many of us have had one for years. I got mine 30 years ago.

What you were dripping ugly fluids? Nice one Fizz, id like a change but my financial advisor has a long list of things that are really boring that I have to pay for. Nothing important, daughters uni, for example.

100 main is far too small, that's why its screaming for choke. Without the 25 idle your making things even worse. Ported properly with a good pipe and filter these could have a 200 main depending on the other jets. Someone may well have fitted a different needle and emulsion tube, matched to a 140 main. If you have these with a 100 main it will never run. If you have cut the fuel right back your smoke will be all the extra oil the engine is getting from the pump. Please don't mess with it. Pumps only kill bikes when people mess with them blaming them for problems caused by running out of oil or thrashing from cold. Put the originals back for now cleaned and at the very least do a plug chop.

I was 'removed' from an IAM ride out because I refused point blank to ride in 2 columns side by side. I wanted to ride in a stagger. They said it takes too much space, seeing as it was pissing with rain at the time I stated I wanted a way out in an emergency, I was on the inside getting hit by the rooster tail of spray coming off the sports bike ahead of me. Ruining my vision. They moaned if I dropped back, they moaned if I moved out of line, they moaned if I moved to the middle in corners to get out of the crap. They basically moaned, full stop. In the end they said if I cannot follow their 'safe' way I could not continue except at the rear. So I left the IAM to their own stupidity and have never regarded them as anything more than self important muppetts feeding off greener riders inexperience.

The first round arm type were 78-79 the middle one was only available for a few months in 79 then the last 4j4 model ran till as late as 85 with the very last of the stock as they couldn't give them away because of the learner laws.

The frame is an MX, a late early model if that makes sense, should have a round sw arm. Known as a 2K4, chassis number 2k4-000101 on. The subsequent 2X2 and 4J4 model codes (little different to look at) were 2k4-01 and 2k4-02. So def early mx. Cant help much with the engine number but there were some cross over mongrels of lc and mx parts bin match ups. Things in the early 80@s were not as exacting as they are now. The early LC was quite literally a Mx bottom end with a water pump and and a barrel pinched from an rd 250. An lc barrel fits a 125/175 bottom end if your interested. No idea if it would run, port height, deck heights etc?. But illustrates the point.

Spoke with Andy (elvis fan) yesterday. As of 3pm yesterday his green SR, yes the 80mph plus SR was nicked and left burned out. Wished him well but still sucks. He had just given it the works too. Chain, fork seals, oil and filters. Even had a full tank of gas. I hope the scum die of something painful.

Mot done. All clear. Season begins. I was in the garage fixing the ruddy indicators that decided to stop working till after 10 last night when I was double checking. All I could find in my spares box was a relay from a mk2 escort. Worked would you believe it, older than the tdr same connections etc. Now you can hear the plink plik as they work.

It is exactly that. But adding to several old threads is confusing and may well lead to confused answers that will be no help. You should start fresh.

An AGV KV3. Amazing. Without question the most comfortable and quietest helmet I have ever had. Its as loud without plugs as my old shoe was WITH. Although blackhat has the same and thinks its shite. Depends on you and your bike maybe?

I tried all sorts. Could not get on with any. Did not try the custom ones. Ended up buying a lid based very much about noise. Much better.

Sounds like an idea. Don't use my bike for work much at all. It's 16 mile each way along a dead straight road. With unlocking the garage, the bike and putting on leathers it takes 15min longer. And the bike does 10mpg less plus oil than the car. The 3k miles thing sounds fun though. Esp with landmarks.

Warm days it won't happen. I have taken the heater circuit of my tdr with no issues unless there is really cold air. I had a 350 that was sensitive to ice. My DT is too but only when it's really cold.

It's not going to be quick fixed with sealant. A gasket or o ring has gone and you will need to replace it. Fuel is too expensive and dangerous to waste.

Done mine several times. You want to be more specific on which dt125. They run from, pretty much 1975, earlier if you include CT stuff. Right through to the late naughties.

Ah. Forgot about that. Did mean to delete it. For some reason some threads dump me out to guest status on the forum if I try to post and then I have to reset the browser/cache clearout to log back in. Have been trying to find out if there are more that do it.

test

Seasons greetings. Off myself from 21 right through to the 3rd. Been really busy up to the holiday. Time to enjoy. Eat drink and be merry.

Yep, my test in 88 was little different difficulty wise, trip round an obstacle course for your part 1, which to someone who had spent 2 years on a 125 and a year on a 50 was laughably easy. " 2 weekends 'training' which in truth was kicking the bikes into suitable test bikes without the associated broken, bodged, illegal parts of 17yr old ownership (tyres and exhaust being favourite). Then the part 2 test. Which was little more than an observed ride, again to someone who had been running 125, (actually a 175) for 2 years was again. Easy.

(youthful eye roll) I suppose that proves I'm not 'an auld yin' yet then eh. ?

It was Wolfie. Not foxxy. May the Tooting Popular Front live on...

Honestly, in this day and riding is getting more hazardous I think the camera element is good. Battery and camera tech nowadays could be added to helmets for a tiny weight penalty. No screens, no hud, just the camera element linked to your phone would be worthwhile in any helmet.

Engine and chassis numbers on yamaha's are the same. The engine number will do fine.

I have heard lots of variations on cleaning carbs, right up to giving them a good brushing with carb cleaner. If that bike has been stood for a while you need to get in there with some copper wire (think flex) the twisted copper strands act as a brush without hurting brass or ally and use it to clear out ALL the airways and fuel galleys. How did you balance the carbs? coffee stirrers work as a base set up, (put coffee stirrers under the slides then open the throttle slowly and the stirrers should move at the same time, didn't say it was technical) then ideally you need it running to tune it exactly as you fine tune the right cylinder to the left.

Fowler. Easy. Brace yourself though. The orange seals are 7 quid a pop. The o rings are around a fiver a pop too. It's around 70 quid to overall the pv. Worth it if the bike is nice as the power valve and carb balance are THE critical points to a nice motor. You will never have one without the other. Pv affects the carb and vice versa.