Leaderboard

78 Yamaha XS500 C OEM Chain Guard 1A8-22310-00-00 MY124 | eBay E-Bay and Google are your friends... P.S. You wrote: 1A8-22310-00-00 It should have been: 1A8-22310-00

I finally found a downloadable service manual that covers the 1995 with the KYB USD fork and figured out how to free the spring from the damper rod. Of course it requires a special tool that can easily be improvised with some plastic pipe and a washer but since the seals can easily be replaced without disturbing the spring, I decided to simply wash everything with Maxxis Suspension cleaner and call it good. Rather than using air space to measure oil, I used volume. I put in slightly more than 16 US ounces in an effort to stiffen the compression a bit. I also used 15W oil. I won't bore you with all the work, time and money I put into this project but it was a fight at every turn. Now the bike that had been "stored" for 29 years with 162 miles on the odometer, now has 168 miles on it. Tomorrow, much more! https://www.facebook.com/bicycle.repairman.75/

Hey again, just following up as mentioned, bike is now back together and the first run has been had with no issues , ended up having to go with a straight through muffler so it could breathe (and sounds great). Looking forward to many more miles, I must say the power increase is amazing and would highly recommend doing if you have the bike and the time. Some pics....cheers Baz.

Snakebite - yes, have it already insured. Only found this forum once it was already done. Looking forward to ride and enjoy it as much as I can. One thing that really stuck to me was when my instructor said - always ride to your own expertise. Never been on bike before CBT, didn't get CBT done first try either, first experience was pretty groundbreaking for me as I managed to ride ok for most part and then at some point I had brain fart, panicked and ditched it dropping it on me just to finish my gracious manoeuvre off. Hard lesson was learned on first attempt on a bike, second time went a lot better, but boy oh boy I have lots to learn. I hope I will have lots of experiences, lessons and emotions to share with you guys and generations to come.

Two wives decided on a girlie night out. On the way home they needed a pee and nipped into a graveyard. Then they realised that they didn't have any wipes to finish up, so the first one used her knickers, and the second one found a wreath and used that. The next day one husband rang the other and said 'No more girlie nights out, mine came home with no knickers on'. The other said, 'Well if you think that's bad mine came home with a card in her crack that said 'From all of us at the fire station - we'll never forget you.''

Well, the good news is a SissyBar is indeed available for 2000 to 2005 models bad news...not cheap! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374879990826?itmmeta=01HW004KJQAFSN3135SP9XB8RD&hash=item574896b42a:g:egoAAOSw4vNkIWZb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0G8DXxuvcuTkSOjSqvVeE%2BX%2FdCwJp2qK4dG1%2FgE9F%2F4QQ1K%2FWfuIIN7MoaQAgl3UhtSncHbTCbvUOJ3CxMuPe6Lm2fI%2FTlTvx7CbuMXfmsZhVC4EYsPoyTJdA6HVSJi544%2Fldhh007OUXQudEtueUo0CuW6yFSPhUtwNIWJwvdpY4oQ4IOE%2F2Bm%2F8%2FKncij2bFxANNB6c18DvOcSKQDWi8G4jAnZZmMVym7pv2LMAY3HqoMOFoC85qxA6p10cRiP0mX6UclE7ZKMD7mT0euekcc%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7K5koDgYw but now you know what you're looking for!

How about JASO MA2 specification for oil which is intended for clutches that run in oil … I get to answer myself when I found the answers here https://yambits.co.uk/oils_parts_for_yamaha_xs500.html

Have you tried You tube? Lots of XS500 videos, too many for me to view, but I notice this blue one has the same size font on the side panels as your photo of the black one. it maybe a case of going through them as some may have the correct tank but not side panel and visa versa.

get these from image works http://www.bike-stickers.com/homepage.htm

https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/classic-japanese-motorcycles/classic-yamaha-motorcycles/1978-yamaha-xs500e-zmmz14ndzkel/ close

Thanks for the replies. I have the parts catalogue and depending on the colour the part code will be different. The only thing that seems to stay the same is the code stamped on the underside of headlight bowl and as I'm doing a total restoration it doesn't matter to me what colour it is as I will respray it anyway. I have a Yamaha at2 also and that has a code YHA 11 SAE M68 so I was hoping that the missing headlight would have a code of some sort. Thanks for any help Julfra

Sounds like an adventure... Welcome in!

Welcome to the forum

Hello everyone, I have been interested in motorcycles and have been riding since I was 12 years old. Not very exciting motorcycles at the start but the highlight came already in 1975 when I bought a 1974 Yamaha LS2. The following year I got my license for light motorcycle and bought my second LS2 and in 1977 it became the RS100 which was a step down from the LS2. There has only been one more Yamaha, XT500 which I bought used in 1987. There have been many motorcycles over the years. Today I have four motorcycles and just bought a XS500D that needs a lot of repairs. Lives with my wife in Lillestrøm Norway and has worked with cars all my life. I'm not very good at English, but today there is help to get

Yeah, that was pretty much the only one I found on a quick search...

Hi there, big welcome from me, I don't think your English is that bad, you've made a good introduction. well done.

try these guys, check out the tank and side covers https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xs500-1977-1h3-europe-1h228-198e5_model37276/partslist/0038.html

xs500 is a curious bike for sure, I think by the D model the head cracking was sorted

Welcome in! And I'm pleased to see you've subbed to be a full member too! Well worth the few units of whatever currency you use... lol. We're not terribly busy here, but there's always someone around to have a poke at answering questions.

2 stokes need to back pressure to seal the incoming charge. whacking in the fuel via choke is just masking it. you need to carry out a plug chop, to ascertain the correct mixture and have a load of mains and pilot jets to change fuel delivery.

Hihi, welcome in! Being a full member is mainly the ability to chat in the extra members only section and getting a discount on your Bikesure insurance... But, considering the low, low price, why the hell not? rofl

Well folks another year rapidly draws to a close! Here's wishing you ALL a Merry Christmas and prosperous New Year. A special thank you to Alex for keeping the website up and running and to all the mods who keep the site in order. The site wouldn't be what it is though without YOU the members, old and new, paid members and free. (of which after 10 years I have decided to become a paid member!) So to all you visitors, don't be shy and post the occasional reply or start a new topic, because without you we would have nothing to read! All the best for next year NE0

Happy new year all! Just back from a 7k km road trip with two screaming kids, never thought I'd be glad to be home

you need Paul Dawkins contact him here https://www.motorbikeregistrations.co.uk/

Hard jet washing is bad. Too many exposed or semi exposed bearings / joints to blast the grease out of! You can jet wash from a distance to get more of a 'soak' going, but be careful. There's all sorts of cleaning products out there, everyone will have a different opinion on them, you probably have to make your own choices... The big problem with cleaning bikes is all the interesting gaps & cubby holes that all the crap gets into. Young and bendy is the key to cleaning a bike well. When you get old and creaky like me, it gets a LOT harder lol.

I've done a 1986 dt125lc mk2 and fitted a big one full system (fresco) and it works and sounds perfect

Hi all, new here. I'm looking at buying a Virago DragStar XVS125 from 2002. The photos look good but before I go and see it in person I was wondering if there was anything in particular to look out for on these bikes? Thank you all! TdashJ

You're seriously hoping that TWINSHOCK is going to reply? He last visited the site in 2010 and his post about the luggage rack was in 2009. Good luck with that one bud!

I have 2 Yamaha motor cycles and have a question regarding 9 digit VIN numbers on my bikes. Can anyone help decode them, please. 1KT xxxxxx 1WGO xxxxx Any help would be appreciated as the DVLA seem to have made a mess of the V5s - one is down as being manufactured in Thailand! Many thanks Michael

I was thinking the same thing. edited...

Incidentally, it might not be wise to display your VIN in case some unscrupulous scrote decides to use it to clone another vehicle, given that there are bike thefts galore going on around the world!!! Just edit your VIN to be 1KT XXXXXX ( x= numbers) I appreciate they could randomally put any numbers that just happen to match, but yours are legite numbers registerd with DVLA. Just trying to protect you bud.

I can't help, but I'm sure someone will be along who has a clue before very long... On closer inspection... If you scroll all the way down to the bottom of the main page, there's a link for a decoder. Yamaha Motorcycle VIN Decoder - Online VIN Check & Verifica - Yamaha Owners Club (yamahaclub.com)

Thanks, fixed, there was an error in the CSS. I'm pretty sure there's a way to flip the theme to dark, or used to be. I'll take a look later.

Done and dusted now. However we will need to redeploy everything from scratch on a new server, this backup I can't find any evidence of the Malware but I don't know how long it may have been dormant for or if it was loaded to RAM, or any backdoors enabled. I have no idea how the server was exploited, the only vunerabilty I could find was that one of my dev sites had an old version of PHP. I think that was the most likely culprit.

I thought you just fill out the changes form attached to your v5 and send it off?

So, as you all know, getting plastics for older bikes is a nightmare... I've been contemplating having a go at manufacturing some for my Thunderace. The obvious easy option is to go for Fibreglass, but, meh, it's tacky and quite heavy. The super expensive option is to create injection moulding equipment, but, we all know that's not going to happen! So what's left is Carbon Fibre... With the little I know about CF so far, there are numerous advantages and disadvantages to CF. But I'm interested in discussing it with anyone with a bit of knowledge... Questions/observations currently include: 1/ There are two types (as far as I can tell), one that requires an autoclave and one that doesn't. Which would be best? 2/ How the hell do you get the various metal fixings into the damn mould? lol 3/ Could I build my own autoclave? 4/ Does either type of CF shrink as they cure? 5/ What else aren't I asking? Discuss..! I figure this Thread is either going to get no interest at all, or is going to snowball...

So like all things I have decided that I'm finally done with my biking, not happy about it but I am just getting to old to do this any more. I have been riding since I was 14 and now at 71 it's time to hang my boots up. Having fallen off more times than I can mention and also having more broken bones over the years than is healthy it's time to walk away. I would like to say to you all may you all live and ride for as long as you can and stay safe out there and if you know anyone who want's a 2001 FJR1300 please let me know. I will bung an advert up on here in the near future so hope to hear from at least one of you if your interested. Good bye all. Martin.

No worries, can never hurt to ask. From what I have gathered in my ever continuing research: 4FU: Higher compression head, Nikasil plated liner, flat piston 3MB: steel liner, more aggressive porting, hole in inlet side of piston for lubing the small end Basically people tend to favour the 4FU but at the end of the day they are about the same. In a turn of events, we MAY have tracked down the original engine and are hoping to get it back next week.

@Snakebite68 Hey sorry I completely missed your comment, please see below. Excuse the state of my bike, I've been renovating the garage!

No progress on CDI unit, have had a couple of used ones through EBay which haven’t generated a spark at all. On the plus side Theory Test Passed and Module 1 booked for late June

Not a clue on reliability, never heard of them before. But E-Bay is your friend most of the time for parts. Past that there's always Yambits : Yambits - Yamaha Parts

Welcome in, I had to google what a Radian was, but looks cool. If you become a full member here, you can get a discount on your insurance from Bikesure...

A carb problem. 1st, on the outside of the carb there will be a Philips screw with a big visible spring around it, this is an air mixture screw, turning it left or right will up and down the idle of the bike by really small amounts. Turn it right by 1/4 a turn and wait a min for the bike to react, if the revs rise a little without the bike being too reved up, it should idle. If it dies straight away try turning to the left 1/4 turn and wait for a reaction. Always remember where the screw was set at before you start turning it. If this doesn't make the bike idle probably you will have to clean the carb. Inside the carb there are 3 jets you have to clean spotless,,,, idle jet,,,,pilot jet,,,,and main jet. Obviously the idle jet is for idling and starting,,,,pilot jet is for throttle from idle to nearly 1/2 throttle and main jet is from half to full throttle. This is a rough explanation but that's what there for. Every bit of inside the carb needs to be really clean. The fact your bike dies coming to a stop, then hard to start, then won't take throttle to let you pull away tells me it's your jets BUT it's definitely worth a try first with the air screw, you might get lucky,,,,, maybe it was never adjusted from factory settings and after all the years it needs to be tweaked. Google carb cleaning before you touch the card and it's delicate setting Best of luck

Hi, I'm Dan. I live in Poole. I currently have a 2002 Thundercat which I've owned for 3 years since returning to 2 wheels after a lengthy lay off! I have just acquired a 2001 Thunderace which I bought from an auction site for not a lot of money. 12,000 miles but I think much UNloved. It starts on the button and runs well. Unfortunately, as I don't want to get wet, (I'm far too old for those shenanigans) I didn't get to ride it for a couple of weeks. However, one Sunday morning, the sun made an appearance so I decided to take it for a little spin. 10 miles later I'm back home and well pleased with the initial run once I'd put some proper air in the tyres! I did notice when back in the garage that the clutch master cylinder bolts were literally hanging out so took the decision there and then to pull it off the road and look at it properly. I can't trust anyone else's handiwork when such a glaring error was made! I've decided to service the machine even though the seller stated that he had done it. I'm also changing all the lines for braided and all the fairing bolts for stainless steel. You should have seen the mish mash that was on it! I am hoping to find some friendly voices on here and maybe a few tips and helpful advice. My only query thus far is about mounting paddock stand bobbins on the swingarm and how they don't go tight all of the way due to the weld on the arm. Will they just be ok wound tight to the weld or do people utilise a spacer such as a split washer underneath? Any replies will be well received. Thanks, Dan

Nope just Nope, I want to ride the bike not some bloody computer, if I fall off then I learn to get better this fools you into thinking your brilliant right up till your not. Much better to invent a centre stand that does'nt need you to be a weight lifter.

I have both a car and a bike with no fuel gauge. You quickly become good at working out how many miles you will do on a tank and adjusting it conservatively based on driving / riding style !

Yeah, that does look a little rough! And possibly like it's frame has been modified! lol. I like that you're apparently fixing some of it with a hammer though...

Here's my XJ6 s 2012 I bought recently. Only 1,750 miles on the clock! It's a great ride, excellent condition really comfortable and pretty quick. I think I'll be keeping this one for a while...

Final report ..... The fuse was blowing because the ignition switch was the wrong one!! It looked at first sight to be the same but it was wired internally differently. There is no way it could ever work although it fitted perfectly. Andy's Motorcycles ad was rather misleading in that it implied (as do many of them) that the switch would suit all YBR125's with a four wire ignition switch, three wires in a block and one loose "bullet type" connector. This is not true. My bike is a 2008 YBR125 Custom Looking at the wiring diagram it clearly shows that there are four connections inside the switch and in the "off" position NONE of the wires make contact, they are all isolated. In the "on" position each of two pairs make contact. For example: "Off" position - no wires make contact - all open circuit. Red (loose wire, bullet connector) main 12v feed from battery. Brown (block connector) Black (block connector) Black/white (block connector) "On" position Red wire connected to Brown wire Black wire connected to Black/white wire The switch that was supplied made one pair contact in the "on" position while the other pair was open circuit, and in the "off" position the roles were reversed. It could never be wired to suit my bike. Physically the switches looked the same (apart from wire colour) and you need a meter to test exactly which wires are switched in which position. It is not easy to source the proper switch, even main Yamaha dealers are confused. Luckily, because the two switches clearly come from the same manufacturer and it is only the contact plates that are different, I was able to carefully prise open the electrical contact plates and swap the correct contacts from the old switch into the housing of the new switch - brilliant. Be warned.