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Everything posted by neversaydie

  1. I think most of us had had those moments
  2. Useful fault finding stuff https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1x1ojthv4h7925/Troubleshooting 3P PMG %26 RR.pdf?dl=0 https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073
  3. Front sprocket come loose (FZS600 common problem), splines worn on output shaft, bearings gone on output shaft
  4. Please refer to your other recent post
  5. https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/33433-vacum-hoses-on-xvs-125/
  6. You may be able to piece it together from the schematics on the CMSNL parts website https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xvs125-2000-5jx1-england-105jx-300e3_model41926/partslist/#.Yl3EBtrMKUl
  7. If it was running when you took it in, the place you took it to re-built the carbs, fuel now leaks from the carb feeding the front cylinder then I would suggest to you that the person who undertook the carb re-build has an obligation to correct the leak and get the bike running
  8. As above, I woudnt touch Chinese manufacture for what Id consider to be a "critical" part, but its your choice. Id not consider the hoses as "critical".
  9. As for the engineering work to remove the old system, you will need to be skilled at drilling out and removing old,seized stud remnants, and will require much patience
  10. Id be cautious. That pipe is a balance pipe, and different baffles might result in re-jetting being reqd for the carbs
  11. 19 year old bike, Id change the fork oil before spending on new springs. Far cheaper, then asses if further spending reqd
  12. As long as its motorcycle oil you should be ok. Car engine oils have different additives in them. I suppose if the bike has been run on mineral oil for years, there may be a chance of a slight difference in noise, possibly a bit of clutch slip too as the friction material will be contaminated with mineral oil
  13. I converted my FZ6 S2 Fazer to hydraulic 4 or 5 years ago. I found the cable system heavy, particularly when going up and down the box eg in heavy traffic etc. I purchased a Magura conversion kit from Venhill and I reckon it reduced the load by two thirds. Performance wise, it has been absolutely faultless and maintenance free so far. Youd have to check to see if one is available for your machine.
  14. Bike has been imported?
  15. Look closely at the old bearing. Sometimes the clearance is marked onto the races, e.g. C1/C2/C3, and someitmes the clearance is indicated by a number of circular marks like this OOO (C3)> I fyou cant idnetify it, then just bite the bullet and buy genuine, that way there is no doubt. The cost is negligible over the lifetime of the bearing.
  16. Easily available. Google for 6304 bearing with snap ring, then take your pick
  17. The problem with buying used is that you cant know the condition. Likely to be at least 20 years old. I suspect having the existing reconditioned may cost 50% of a new Hagon
  18. Wow, thas tough. Chin up Jimmy, hope you fully recover
  19. Cant help you, but remote start? Is there a point to that?
  20. You could try bike breakers yards too
  21. Buy cruiser specific tyres, you wont be spending much time on the side walls. They tend to be harder wearing in the centre so are good for longer mileage
  22. Try this then. https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/39922211/yamaha-ybr-125-service-manual Pages 4-7, 7-4, 7-15. It looks to me like the switch is directly adjacent to the gear shift shaft, on the left side of the bike as you sit
  23. Go to Fowlersparts.co.uk website, search your bike by filling in the boxes, its in Electrical 2, then look in that position on the bike
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