XJ6-boy

thanks for your thoughts lads and yes I go to Wales a lot over the summer months but find it really difficult to go further than about 1 half hrs before I get a num and painful bum plus I like the idea it is fitted in the bike seat and still looks good no ugly covers.

Have been looking at getting a gel pad fitted to my bike as the seat is realy hard and came across this site, any one know if they are any good http://www.themotorcycleseatcompany.com/ or some were better, the price looks ok to me, do gel pads make a difference or not Help!

I've working on 2 stroke bikes for many year so I’ve seen some problems over the years with air leaks on 2 stroke bikes and it is very rare the crank seals go wrong, in nearly all instances in my experience it's been the base gasket, if it was the head gasket you should see petrol oil in the water, if not then replace the base gasket first as this is the easiest job to do and a little tip when replacing the base gasket put some silicon sealant around the gasket before fitting, But not on the head gasket. I can’t remember on the dt but usually the crank seals are put in from the inside of the engine which will mean splitting the motor. (usually a small lip on the outside of the crank case stops them from coming out and the main bearing stops it going in)

In truth mate I dought it will be the crank seal’s as these rarely give any trouble and the only one that can leak air is on the fly wheel side (generator side) the other is submersed in oil and if that had gone all the gear box oil would drain into the crank case, more likely to be either the cylinder head gasket or my favourite the barrel base gasket, over time with the barrel and head getting hot then cooling down the head bolts work loose (these should be torque checked every 6mths or so) as they work loose it creates a situation over time were as a gap appears between cylinder head and barrel or barrel and crank case, the bike was probable running ok when you parked it up because the engine was warm (due to expansion of metals) but now it has cooled down the metal has shrunk creating a gap and damaging the seals. The best course would be to replace both gaskets (head and base gasket) also chk the carb is mounted securely also the reed block, but my bet is with the base gasket. The other option would be to compression test the engine but for the cost of two gaskets I would just replace them. Have a goodie mate

As far as I know there has been no major modifications for some time on these bikes some cosmetic ones but I really doubt they would of changed the forks with in a 12 mth period but to be sure can you take the bent fork and compare the outside to see if they are the same and with string measure the top of the fork leg the chk its diameter and chk mudguard attachments etc but I’m farley sure it will fit no probs.

Thanks for that, I can confirm that the injectors are identical for the fazer and the xj6, as are many engine bits, the cam idea I’m not sure on as you only gain 0.6mm additional opening on one exhaust valve and the same on one inlet valve the other valves open the same and with the ignition timing on the xj6 being earlier it kinda compensates. Sounds and runs great and you can feel a little extra power when cruising although waiting for better weather for a proper test as these engines seam to need to be warmed though properly before they perform. not sure about a power commander though as I know very little about them other than they don't do one for the xj6 (as yet) please enlighten me on this subject.

So after upgrading the throttle bodies on my XJ6 to ones from a FZ6 Fazer I'm now wondering if the air box needs to be modified to allow more air to pass thought. On my original investigation it looked like their was very little difference between the air boxes and being not sure if the Fazer one would fit under my tank kept the original xj6 one. can any one help in letting me know if the Fazer one will fit under the tank of an xj6 or some other mod to increase the air flow (please remember that the air temp sensor is mounted inside the air box. Thanks XJ6Boy

Hi I’m new on here as well, just wanted to say I had a DT175 as my first bike after a moped when I was 17 back in 1981 (showing my age now) it was a cracking bike, I use to go up the woods after dark and do some night trailing, not a good idea with that head lamp, not the best of lights, I did that until one time I got lost and nearly went over a cliff, (young and stupid) anyway hope you have fun with the restoration.

Just want to say Hi to you all as you can gather I have a 2010 XJ6 so hi to all you xj6 owners, hope I haven’t offended anyone by posting my modes b4 introducing myself and feel free to ask any questions although you mite not like my answer if you ask personal ones. I use to be a mechanic some years ago so a little rusty but don't mind trying to answer any of those questions.

have you checked the compression of the engine, or you could try this, when you turn it over without a spark plug fitted can you smell petrol if so then there should be enough getting though and you need to look elsewhere. Also try removing the cap from the ht lead and (whilst wearing gloves) hold the ht lead about 1/2 to 1/4 of an inch from the head, turn the engine over there should be a good strong spark if not then either the battery is no good or the cdi has failed (whilst trying this be very careful not to ignite any gases coming out of the spark plug hole).

have you checked the compression of the engine, the am6 uses rubber rings for the head gasket and will blow out very easily also the am6 is realy bad for pitting on the conrod small end eye so when you stip it down have a good look as these pits will eat away at the small end untill it fails then the needle barings will seize up your motor as they spray out.

Ok I am new on here and 18 mths ago purchased an XJ6N and proudly took my time running her in, the bike stands now at just under 5500 miles. I have to say it handles well but I have never been exactly bold over with the engine performance and have always thought it lacked grunt. After readying an MCN review on the bike which stated the throttle bodies have been reduced from 36mm to 32mm and being and old school mechanic it has been bugging me how to produce a cheap way to increase performance, when it use to be carburettors it was simple, put bigger carbs on but Fuel injection is not quite as simple, so I researched the subject (remember the xj6 is based upon the 05/06 r6 then redefined as the FZ6 Frazer which was rather mad-fast) when you actually look at the specs on a Yamaha service manual there are only three main difference between the FZ6 Frazer and the XJ6. 1 ignition timing by 1.5 deg, 2 the valves open longer on a Frazer than on the XJ6 and finally the throttle bodies internal dimensions are smaller on the XJ6 (32mm) the actual bodies them selves are more or less identical. So guess what I purchased a throttle body from an FZ6 Frazer (cost me £50.00) did some miner changes and put them on my XJ6, what a difference. normal riding is about the same just a bit more responsive so is still nice in traffic (although the 3000 rpm to just under 4000 rpm dead zone is still there) but when you hit 4000 rpm and pull the throttle back all I can say is you need good gripe to hold on and how this bike should be. Ok so just for you lot wanting to know how this works in general terms, you have increase the air flow by 4mm which is detected by the air flow meter, this tricks the ECU into supplying more fuel, more fuel equals more speed which is good and far cheaper than a £500 to £1000 exhaust job and has removed my boredom factor which again is also good. If anyone wishes more details on how to do this modification please let me know, if you have patients time and some mechanical know how you can do this.