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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/28/2021 in all areas

  1. if you pay peanuts...
    3 points
  2. Well they let me book the Friday off so will run up then.
    3 points
  3. i go out after 7:30pm to avoid traffic, or before 9:30am on weekend mornings. taking it easy preserves your licence and allows you to enjoy the scenery my last ride i decided to treat the bike to some salt air. stopped at Barton on sea to enjoy the view across the Solent to the isle if Wight. the car parks had cleared out a lot by the time i got there. its always nice to avoid other people when your a miserable old git like me
    2 points
  4. Says the file is unavailable You'd think a moderator would be able to upload them properly
    2 points
  5. Just booked myself onto a track day at blyton Park on the 9th so making a long weekend of it I think
    2 points
  6. Is this the hole it left,,
    2 points
  7. Have you seen his age
    2 points
  8. went out with a mate to Southport carousel Took it really easy as too warm and the car drivers just CBA driving sensibly. Avoided a few situations if I'd been a bit faster. Lots of harvesters and tractors out too ATM
    1 point
  9. put the gpx files in drop box https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qa6p9a9s6q3hokb/AAAOB8gx36JErJTunerbirZra?dl=0
    1 point
  10. Still unavailable
    1 point
  11. PDF copies for the spoon fed populous Clapham.pdf Flamboroughhead.pdf pickeringsteam.pdf Scarborough.pdf wray.pdf York daytrip.pdf
    1 point
  12. finally managed to get out for a ride Saturday evening. my route took me through Hants, Wilts and Dorset. the traffic was light and the temperature dropped to a comfortable level about 8:30. i took some pics by Fovant badges. a landmark between Salisbury and Shaftsbury.
    1 point
  13. On my wiring diagram (for a 2005 YBR), the solid blue wire I think you're talking about runs to the neutral switch - it then connects to ground. The wire appears to run to the generator side of the engine, by the front sprocket. Test the switch directly at it's contacts (should ground likely when in neutral), the wire may also be broken at some point between the front and rear of the bike.
    1 point
  14. Whatever they are they don't work
    1 point
  15. i've done a few routes as I'm there for the week. pickering tuesday and wray bike night thursday Clapham.gpx Flamborough head.gpx pickering steam .gpx Scarborough.gpx wray.gpx
    1 point
  16. Taking the bus or going actually on the bike?
    1 point
  17. I'm working till 2 so will be there late afternoon/evening
    1 point
  18. So short story, I was in a local village and they had a set of temp traffic lights set up which meant that there was quite a queue of cars waiting to move on, I love filtering to be honest, and so I wandered down the outside of these cars to get to the front, just my luck but someone was coming the other way and I dived into a gap between a car and a huge lorry, little did I know that the road dipped away to my left and was really steep suffice to say that when I tried to put my left foot down to balance the bike there was no road under my foot! the bike just tipped over like a felled tree with me going with it and then to add insult to injury my left foot got trapped by the rear footrest, so there I am laying in the road and I really can't move cos of the weight of the thing. I kid you not I felt like a right twat just laying there and remember thinking "fuck that hurts!" When out of nowhere around a dozen folks appeared as if by magic and helped me not only get the bike off my foot but then helped get it upright. Unfortunately thats not the worst part, I climed back onboard and got ready to move off and I had not realised how bad my foot had been squashed, so when I tried to take the weight on my left foot to move off it just would not take the weight so there I am AGAIN laying in the road, Oh FFS! this is getting embarasing so once again I had folks run out and lift it again, needless to say this time I took my time to get sorted out before I tried again to go home but this is a THANK YOU to all those folks and a reminder that although we might at times hate car drivers and pedestrians most people are kind and caring if you make a complete hash of things and end up laying in the road. I got away quite lightly tho, just the biggest bruise on my left foot and a reminder every time I walk that no matter how long you have been riding and waving at car drivers to get out ot the way that they really come through when you need help. And yes I'm and idiot!
    1 point
  19. The actions that caused the damage in that picture changed the world
    1 point
  20. my tdm850 pulls from 1500 rpm, max torque at 5k and power 6.5. it'll rev up past the red line at 8k but nothing happens power wise. It also has a 270' crank.
    1 point
  21. I've been commuting year round for 2.5 years now on my trusty old Thunderace and being an old bike, it requires regular and sometimes in depth maintenance. Which, because I'm riding pretty much EVERY day, it's not getting... So... I bought myself a 2018 edition (registered 2017) Suzuki DL1000A to take the strain off the Thunderace and also allow me to strip it down and do the work to it it needs. Now. I'm not used to a V-Twin so, my questions are: 1/ When you wind a V-Twin on, do they always sound like several people are hammering a piece of concrete a couple of doors away? 2/ Baring in mind the above question, how do I tell if the engine is struggling (when I'm in too high a gear)? It's easy to tell on the Ace, but I just can't tell on the V-Twin lol 3/ What should I be expecting from my gears, so far, this is all I have: Gear 1, appears to be zero to bugger all... Gear 2, appears to be bugger all to about 40ish... Gear 3, appears to be 40ish up to 70... Gear 4, appears to be a responsive cruise at 70... Gears 5 & 6, appear to be just something to do at 70 to cut down your fuel usage! Am I just doing it all wrong on an Adventure bike? Am I just too used to a sports bike? Thoughts and observations welcome! P.S. Riding a V-Strom after a Thunderace is like having to learn to ride all over again! All my corners are a bag of shit! I look like a n00b! rofl
    1 point
  22. That may well have been a very expensive mistake, electrics are quite often polarity sensitive. I made the same mistake on our caravan and had to replace the tv and the electrical circuit board in the fridge. Five hundred quidsworth for the sake of not checking.
    1 point
  23. As a 2 stroke man john you should ride a propperly sorted vmax, crazy. Needs to be a good one though, lot more posers than do ers out there.
    1 point
  24. Yeah it was the TANK and yes it went down with a wallop, no hole in the road as it was cushioned with my foot!!!
    1 point
  25. Was it the Tank that toppled " thay"l be a hole in the road now,,
    1 point
  26. 16 years older than me, still no news on the health of the bike though!!!
    1 point
  27. Oh, they're definitely smooth.. I just can't identify all the little noises. I could have a big end going, and I wouldn't have a clue! lol
    1 point
  28. You have gone from peak torque/peak revs to peak torque no revs. You need to watch the taco for a bit, revving a v twin hard will just send your fingers numb. Peak power is around 8 and peak torque around 7k rpm so in theory your sweet spot for gear changing will be around 7 to 8k. Your ears will argue with you because they are used to 20 valves and 4 pistons rattling around (figuratively they do make noise). Now you have 8 valves and 2 pistons so half the noise and exhaust note. Your head will be telling you to change at ? probably 16k. Not being sarky your waiting for the normal resonance of the ace at maybe 8 or 9k if your pushing. Dont worry about big handfuls of low rpm throttle either its where a v twin thrives, from as low as 3 k wang the throttle open and she will drive, the chunder ace would likely bog till it gets its stride. Short answer you need to turn your riding upside down, low rpm drive is the key. Your all finished and ready to have a cuppa before the ace would be getting on the cam properly. And, i have seen it first hand, those v twin suzuki's are a looooong way from slow, once you sus the riding style you will rip the commute apart.
    1 point
  29. I think he'll just have to do his measurements standing on his head. Should be fine then
    1 point
  30. How you getting on with the Helicoil quest Alex? Based on the assumption that its a standard metric thread then the socket size should give you an idea of the stud. the general rule for standard sockets for metric threads are as follows: m5 nut/bolt/screw = 8mm socket m6 = 10mm socket m8 = 13mm socket m10 = 17mm socket m12 = 19mm socket I've done a bit of googling and found the stud on the parts diagram for the MT-09 cush drive of the rear wheel. https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/yamaha-parts/2016-mt09-tracer-abs-motorcycles/rear-wheel (regardeless of year they all seem to share the same nuts and studs) The stud (15) is part number 90116-10048-00 and the nut (16) is part number 95602-10200-00 Putting those in Google I managed to find that the nut takes a 17mm socket therefore its likely its an M10 stud. I then stumbled across the break down of the Yamaha part numbers 90116 = are indeed studs and all self lock nuts start = 95602 the next two numbers are the M size= 10. That confirms that then! Unfortunately none of the rest of the code indicates the thread pitch! However, i did manage to find a close up photo of the stud part number : https://www.bts24.co.uk/en/transmission/chaindrive/rearsprocket/mountingbolt/screwsprocketoriginalsparepart901161004800.html?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook Although the photo could be a generic photo I found one for sale on ebay that someone was selling showing the actual packet and the stud with it and this shows that it has the same thread on both ends. The reason I mention this is studs that fit exhausts, which are also double ended, have a much coarser thread for the stud part that screws into the engine block. However, in this case the ebay photo confirms it is the same thread on both ends of the stud. Using the first chart shows M10 being available in three pitches, 1.0, 1.25 and 1.5mm, unfortunatley I couldn't find any confirmation of the pitch size for the nut or stud other than the standard metric thread for an M10 appears to be 1.0mm. The other two are finer and I don't think you can decipher which it is just by the photo, unless someone knows any different. Hope this helps you Alex. NE0
    1 point
  31. Ok the foot aches! but other than a mighty bruise it's fine. The bike however is not, I had just spent quite a time on fitting 2 new mirrors with built in LEDs and was quite proud of the fact that they looked cool with having to make up 2 small looms to connect them to the bike so I could use the existing wiring with out cutting the wires on the bike, had been on the bike for about 3 days and the fall snapped the left hand one off like a carrot! So today I fitted the old ones back on and it's back to standard. Some scrapes to the exhaust mount and the left engine casing plus the fairing protector was gouged up a bit. All in all I got away light.
    0 points
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