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  1. Hi All, I've recently suffered a mid life crisis and bought a 1985 RS200 similar to the one I owned back when I was younger/happier. The bike is in very good condition overall, apart from the exhausts blowing slightly between the downpipes and and the silencers. I took off the silencers and found there were no gaskets between the downpipes and the silencers, which explains them blowing. I've spent hours online trying to find the gaskets but no luck so far. I phoned Fowlers Parts who were kind enough to dig out the microfiche for my model, but apparently the original gaskets have been discontinued. If anybody has any idea what I could use as replacement gaskets for the discontinued ones I'd be really grateful. Thanks, Stuart
    1 point
  2. Hi Neo, thanks very much for your research, it's much appreciated. I scraped the soot from the neck of one of the exhausts but it hardly made any difference to the diameter measurements, and I couldn't really feel much of a step inside the neck either so I'm not sure that a ring type gasket fits inside. I've used exhaust paste in the past to seal exhaust joints, but as you say it can be a real pain to seperate them again. A friend has suggested smearing Blue Hylomar on the downpipes before pushing the downpipes into the silencers. it doesn't harden and it copes with high temperatures. If it doesn't do the job at least it won't be a problem seperating the pipes again to clean it off. I hadn't thought about looking for a microfiche for the RS200 as I don't have access to a reader, but after you mentioned being able to read them using a loupe and a strong light I thought I'd have a look. I've now found and bought a microfiche for the RS200 from Germany. it's for a 1980 model, but has the 3L2 suffix so hopefully there won't have been too many model changes during the production run, besides it was only 11 quid so it hasn't broken the bank. As you've mentioned, once I have a part number I can start doing comparisons with other models. Thanks a million for all your help. You've pointed me in other directions that I hadn't thought about, hopefully one of them will lead me to a successful conclusion! All the best, Stuart
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  3. Hi Neo, thanks for replying so promptly. The gaskets were missing from the silencers so I have no idea what they look like, and I didn't think to ask Fowlers for the parat number at the time, I think I'll give them a buzz on Monday and ask if they'd be kind enough to give me the part number. It's a good idea to measure the inner and outer diameters of the downpipe and silencer and look for a similar size gasket from another bike. I guess the RS100 and YB100 models would be a good starting point. Straight after tea I'll be down the garage to dig out my vernier gauge... Thanks again, all the best Stuart
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  4. How did you find out what they were for? Did you scour ebay or something?
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  5. Grats! Give them a really good scrub up and get them sold!!!
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  6. I found them! You can all stop looking now They are DT just not 175MX which is what I was given them as. They're DT125LC MK1 In really good condition if anyone's looking for a pair?
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  7. Hi everyone On Sunday was out on my 1998 YZF750R when I noticed the rev counter suddenly flick to 7000rpm then drop to show 0 rpm then a few seconds later ping up to 7000rpm again. The actual engine revs and power remained normal and no other issues apparent. On arriving home let the bike cool down, then turned ignition on. With the engine not running, the rev counter started cycling between 7000rpm and then back to 0 then 7000rpm again etc and repeat. Had a look on a online few threads noting that the "7000rpm" is a Yamaha diagnostic indication that points to a problem with the Exup system. So tank & fairings off and had a look. Examined the cable ends at the valve and one was badly frayed/rusty/stiff. Said cable has been removed and a new one ordered. I also removed both cable ends from the servo motor so the servo was free to operate. Then turned the ignition on thinking that the servo motor/pulley would now be free to rotate - which it did and I expected the 7000rpm tacho bounce would not be seen if a seized cable had been the problem. However...the tacho continued to bounce to 7000rpm back to 0...7000rpm again. So I though maybe there is a fault with the actual servo motor. I happened to have a spare motor I bought last year, so plugged that into the loom and turned ignition on. The fault remains just as before. I have checked the electric connections hooking up the Servo to the loom and all are clean and in good condition Beginning to wonder if the 7000rpm code might indicate some other problem. Any more ideas or things worth trying please? Thank you.
    1 point
  8. Hi Snakebite - I finally found the diagnostic code mentioned in the Haynes Manual but not where you might expect (i.e. in the fault finding chapter). The Fuel Sensor (7000rpm diagnostic code) and what it means is described in fuel system chapter section 4-26. Great if you know you have a fuel system fault....not so good if you just want to know what 7000rpm indication means to start with...Anyway, hopefully useful info. Cheers
    1 point
  9. No worries. As I said, the indicated codes on the 750 are apparently different than on the Thunderace, even though they indicate the same 3 faults (who knows why this is...). Or I could have told you exactly which one it was. The strange thing was, when I looked at the 750s manual online, I couldn't find any mention of the error codes!
    1 point
  10. Hi all, Just to update, I took the fuel pump and sender unit out of the tank and found the connection had indeed broken from the green wire to the solder joint at the sender unit. I've attached the photo in case it's useful to others. Re-soldered and will put it all back together next week. Thanks for everyone's input and ideas.
    1 point
  11. Aaaand... That appears to be all you're getting! lol I can't add much more, but I really can't see a 125 having the same sized wheel as a 650!
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  12. Of have no experience of this bike, but as a member of the Fazer Owners Club (FOC UK), I have seen numerous threads on that site referring to the 7K exup fault. I f I recall correctly, you would have to refit all of the missing parts and then reset (ie zero) the servo motor. It also has to be spotlessly clean and completely free to rotate. You may wish to have a look on there for the FZS1000 Fazer 7K exup fault code
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  13. Thanks for those thoughts. Unfortunately the 1998 YZF is a very analogue beast, and there are just analogue clocks, and as far as I can see there is no diagnostic plug on the loom to plug-in a OBD reader. It might be possible to perform some kind of rudimentary manual "fault" reset via some particular sequence of turning ignition on/off combined with engine run/kill switch position or similar - however, that is a guess and I have been unable to find any information or manual that says there is a way to reset a "fault" condition on a 1998 YZF. The new cables are due in a day or so, and I'll re-install everything, plus connect up the fuel tank and fire her up. Maybe with everything put back together, with engine running the system will reset itself and the tacho 7000rpm bounce will stop I can add that the Exup Valve is completely free to rotate in its housing (I serviced it last year) and the servo motor is rotating when ignition is switched on. Thanks for your input.
    1 point
  14. Update. I think I have figured it out. After looking at the wiring schematic I thought the only thing that could be stopping it was cranking over / starting is the starting switch located in the voltage regulator. I took the regulator off, cleaned the contacts on the starting switch and reinstalled it. It worked, but no spark. I cleaned the contacts on the points and now I have spark. It wouldn't start, but I think that is a fuel issue. I am off to get some gas. I will update later. Thank you Neo for pointing me in the right direction.
    1 point
  15. Thank you Neo. I will have a look today. I have also attached the wiring diagrams. Thanks.
    1 point
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