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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/18/2021 in all areas

  1. Hello, I've been a yammy man for a long time, since my first 350YPVS back in the very early nineties, I've built countless specials over the years and more recently I've been working through my bucket list, buying tired but low mileage cosmetically challenged bikes and restoring them back to mint original perfection, doing everything myself in my domestic garage, fabrication, plating, painting everything. I've always loved the unloved underdog, nothing better than stuffing an underpowered bike past a wobbly sunday barstool racer on his 'superbike' So I'd been half looking for a SZR660, they've always interested me, a nice single in a small light good handling chassis, the potential is there, just that Belgarda made a dogs breakfast of packaging it. Then a bike popped up on ebay, yeah the fairing was fitted all wrong and looked awkward but it already had a few desirable bits for the special I already had visualised and more importantly was much cheaper than the overpriced original bikes that dreamers on ebay seem to think are desirable. As soon as it arrived it was stripped and the project started.... First up get that fairing off and suddenly it looked much lighter The look I'm going for is naked, stripped down, lightweight - taking styling cues from the SDR200 and R-1Z, now the seat unit looked way too big as well so that came off as well, and then the engine came out and it was much lighter Few hours later and I was down to the starting point of a bare frame. I have a TIG but have never done any ally work so this was the chance to learn.....
    3 points
  2. It just means you chat the most and on a regular basis
    3 points
  3. blackhat250 still is a great bike sounds great. Just got it going woohoo. Vacuum pipe from inlet manifold needed connecting to fuel petcock. Felt sorry for the guy who sold it to me coz it would only run for 10 seconds at a time.
    2 points
  4. ignore Jimm's reply when he chimes in
    2 points
  5. LOL, not many people know. A uk moped, ie 50cc bike is not legally required to have main beam. My daughters Aprilia did not have main beam, i converted it because the headlight was shite using kx 125 parts. So it may well not have main beam.
    2 points
  6. I have a Zuma 49cc 2 stroke. Last time riding I was cruising at 40 mph then the speed just dropped to 30-35, out of no where! This happened after about 30 minutes. It never got back up to speed and seems to have just lost top end. I took carb apart & cleaned, new plug, fuel supply/vent okay, air filter okay, exhaust manifold gasket/seal checked, and also burned out the little carbon that was in my exhaust pipe. I am at a complete loss. Would reeds have this effect on scooter after it heats up? One reed was against the valve, and the other 3 had a gap of about 1/8”. Or could it be cylinder/top end damage or wear? Thanks for any advice. I just don’t know what else to do.
    1 point
  7. Accidently clicked on my name, and it would appear that I have 6 badges... What's all this about then? And how many badges are there? And is there a list??? I want to collect them all!!! lol And I've just been promoted to 'Contributor'!!! Wots all this ere then?
    1 point
  8. Battery has nothing to do with the engine running on a dt, It will literally need one wire from the mag to the coil to run. Bought a field bike for spares in just that configuration. If you have a good plug, coil and lead then continuity down to the mag the only fault there will be the condenser or the points need adjusting or are fouled. I myself used to run the condenser outside of the mag on dt's i have had in the past, may reduce efficiency slightly but save a whole lot of ball ache when they fail, and far easier to change out on a regular basis saving the points burning through a weak condenser. Condensers do fail, likely the weakest 'point' of the system. May just be a bit of fluff in the jaws of the points.
    1 point
  9. Paul and I would have been up on the Friday but that weekend was a washout, you def got the best of the week. We can always use that place near Matlock as a base, needs little if any forward planning for a meet.
    1 point
  10. Can't help you there as I'm about 500miles from Kent, but best of luck with the resto. I ran an xs11 from 89 until about 2002 and loved that beast Mind and open a new thread posting loads of pics please
    1 point
  11. It's all changed because of Facebook etc. When this forum started I joined and there were a few from the Aircooled forum on but not much else happening. I logged on a year later and it was massive, very busy and moderating was a hard job then. Still nice to see familiar faces on here and a few new ones. When this pandemic settles down we need to try and meet up again. Although you can't say I didn't try this year because Squires was great and the roads around there were amazing (yes I took a different route other than the 2stroke one)
    1 point
  12. At 8500miles im guessing those tyres with a bit left are the originals, the front is likely chopped and the rear profile is likely well off. Add to that the likelyhood of being 20+ years old. I will admit to being a bit of a tyre fusspot, they are so important and people run them till the tread is on the limit when in truth they are actually dead as a worthwhile part of the bike long before. I always replace as a pair too. But then i ride a vmax set up for cornering so... After years on a super stable sports tourer you may need some miles to get used to the different style of riding.
    1 point
  13. Welcome in. That looks in bloody good condition!
    1 point
  14. Sorry Blackhat, only back on line today after some non-bike related issues. Thank you NSD for your post. Much appreciated.
    1 point
  15. I would be wary of the advice in the future from the person saying traveling the bike on a trailer in neutral is bad. You leave it in gear on a trailer (have moved one or two over the years) because it reduces the chance the bike has to move, that's all. Certainly wont change how it goes into gear. Common new rider issue and some bikes are renown for it, my vmax can be a right pig if its hot. You just got to adjust on the fly to the bike. Part of the skill.
    1 point
  16. These were JDM only.I bought it from an importer in the UK in April 2019 for £2k in need of a complete engine rebuild which I done myself except the crank rebuild and rebore work, replaced all the rubber bits except the radiator hoses they are in good condition and got it on the road in July 2019.It only had 9k on the clock but had been stood for many years in Japan. Total cost of buying the bike and fixing it in totally standard trim then registering was £2.8k. Since then I have bought other stuff and spent around another £800 ish but that was my choice.After getting it on the road in standard trim it was time to start thinking about making an already fun bike even more hilariously fun bike for a 250. So heres what I have done so far. YSS suspension back and front. Soon to be fitted usd front end off of a SZR660 Michelin power RS tyres Fork brace from Taiwan but most likely China, changed the chocolate bolts for stainless ones apart from that its well made and works well. Martin Johnson chambers (bloke in Devon makes them) with TYGA cans. Changed out the restrictive 26mm TM carbs for two 28mm TM carbs from DTR 125's with the added bonus of the dt carbs having air screws. the idle adjuster on the right hand carb needed moving from the left side of the carb to the right side which was easy as Yamaha had left a threaded blind hole so all that was needed was to drill through and fit the iidle screw and blank off the other one. The air screw however cant be moved but a longer thin screw driver does the job. Polished the cylinder head domes Cleaned all the rough casting lumps and bumps from the transfer ports and smoothed them and knife edged the web. Removed the hump in the exhaust ports and removed casting marks then lightly polished the ports. Removed the snorkel or pig nose from the airbox. Barend mirrors fitted, they look a shit load better than stock and suit the bike well I think. Carbon reeds. Removed the KMH speedo and fitted an MPH one from a TZR125 only reads up to 100mph (yeah mate it goes off the clock ) though it was a straight fit in the case. Will now be fitting the speedo from the SZR660 as it reads up to 120mph. Fitted the SZR660 rear wheel as it allows a 150 section tyre rather than a 140 section tyre. The wheel is a straight fit no messing with spacers or anything and the R1Z sprocket hub is a straight fit to the SZR wheel. The carb jetting is 260 main, 35 pilot and needle clip is central. Will get it on the rolling road one day to see actual rear wheel bhp but stock they are 45bhp at the crank The result is a bike that handles very very well around the bends and goes very very well in a straight line too.I decided not to have the bike re painted as I like the look of its crusty appearance and the small dent it has in the tank gives it character and is part of it's history.The rusty bits I treated with Kurust to neutralise it. I had to paint the front wheel as the original finish had surface corrosion from when it was standing for many years and did look horrible. A few random pictures of the work I have done to it.
    1 point
  17. They do, with the ig set to the base line of the bike your buying it for. On a tdr most people are just buying the pv controler more than ig because lets be honest, most bikes with a tax disk need little more than a tweak at high rpm maybe. Its the pv that is set conservative for rideability etc. We all want a bigger punch on the ride and if you can live with more brutal characteristics you open the pv earlier and faster. One of zeeltronic bloggers has done it, on you tube somewhere starts opening at 4500 rpm or so and wide open at 7 or so, (allowing for motor cycle time) will have the motor going at its hardest. Wont be the most civilised ride as you will be always on pipe, but it is a 2 stroke though right.
    1 point
  18. I am breaking a good low miles SZR660
    1 point
  19. Sure is, these are very underestimated bikes and considering I bought it more by accident than design, it is the bike I have had most fun on and ride the most. Thanks, bit of a cafe racer look to it I think but faster There's a few on eblag or there was It has been proven as well big fun
    1 point
  20. Errr Hello signed up 10 nugget member for a year My Yamaha is a 1990 R1-Z250 ypvs a complete nutter bastard bike that delivers big smiles
    1 point
  21. Hi dave " the xS250 was a brilliant bike,,
    1 point
  22. I'm a bit further north in a village called Kilchoan. It's west of Fort William.
    1 point
  23. Cool little bikes,, small race replicas ,
    1 point
  24. check the chain and clutch adjustment. my bike struggles finding neutral if the chain is slack.
    1 point
  25. i was thinking the same thing with the battery. there was also the green goo around a connector that plugs into the starter relay so ill probably have to clean it out but everything is either pointing to a bad connection or dead cell in the battery which i hope
    1 point
  26. If you have not come across this Legendary Bike builder it's well worth a couple of hours on his channel. I'll start it off with a look at the six cylinder Kawasaki https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uW2YFNDjN_o&t=434s Perhaps Admin can embed the video for me
    1 point
  27. Part No 4MY8230500. Also found on: Yamaha XTZ660 (35.3KW) 1994 4MY1 GERMANY 244MY-332G1Yamaha XTZ660 (25KW) 1994 4NW1 GERMANY 244MY-332G1Yamaha XTZ660 1994 4MY1 FRANCE 244MY-351F1Yamaha XTZ660 1994 4MY2 SPAIN 244MY-352S1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 BELGIUM 264MY-300E1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 DENMARK 264MY-300E1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 FINLAND 264MY-300E1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 ENGLAND 264MY-300E1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 GREECE 264MY-300E1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 ITALY 264MY-300E1
    1 point
  28. i dont ride in the wet. thats what cars are for!
    1 point
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