Vez

Come on, tell what was wrong with it?

Its looks like a DT125LC. I don't know if the engines will switch over as i have zero experience with dt125lc's. Why not do some investigation and see? My suggestion for the bolt would be to heat the stubborn bolt up and the surrounding area with a blow torch.

Not a check list as such, but may help you all the same. http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual/mc_contents.htm

89 and 92 are both DTR's. ( DT125R's ran from 88-03) I say again, as i did in the previous thread (you linked too), 88-03 are all the same frame as far as I'm concerned. There are slight differences in the engines, gear ratios, generator/flywheel, barrel design and standard piston sizes etc., but the engine dimensions remained the same and will swap over. The list of compatible parts is basically everything except the electrical system for the engine (cdi, stator etc) and lights. Some of the designs of the plastics were changed slightly but they still swap over iirc. If you want to swap the engines over its probably best to change the electrics with it, or at least the ignition system. The early models had an ignition control unit separate from the cdi where as the later it was built into the cdi. Although I'm 99% sure you can swap the ignition electrics over. If you have the time and patience to split the loom and swap generators etc. that is. If it was me, i would get the stubborn bolt out of the 92 as it will give you more scope with spares.

How cheap you want it?

You live in Wales , i wouldn't risk it, from what i hear the police over your way aren't a friendly bunch where bikers are concerned.

A thread about installing a cigarette lighter onto a DTX http://www.yamaha-underground.com/cms/tutoriels/installer-une-prise-dallume-cigare.html ( Google translate http://translate.google.com/?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=fr# ) No reason to stop you doing the same on the DTR.

Welcome to the forums G

Depends on what the individual truckers contract says, my Dad is quite happy about it. Its only until Wednesday anyway. Good idea imo, at least the suits are thinking about getting supplies through, like salt and food. My dad delivers alot of salt to schools, fire stations and hospitals, so it cant be a bad thing.

I think theres a few hgv drivers on here so i figured i would post this. Hgv drivers are to be given an extra hour for the next 4 days starting Sunday. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-11917444

Don't forget, sharing is caring

http://imageshack.us/

Gas-Up and Ellmet

YBR's are 4-stroke .

have a good one Paul.

+1 Apart from its the Red Wire, or it is on mine anyway. Also try tapping the starter motor with something like the handle of a screwdriver while you're trying to start the bike because it may just be sticking.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item4cf35a8348 33bhp lol

Do you mean another key or entire fuel cap? Fuel cap i would suggest a Yamaha Dealer. If you need a replacement key. then any good locksmith should be able to help you out, providing you have the number from the key or the 2 snapped parts (i.e whole key). Edit: Closest cap i could find is an XT125X 2007? http://www.yamahasco...21&modelID=9005 £30...ouch Edit 2: Noticed your profile is correct and its actually a XT125R 09 model, check the picture as they may be the same.

Oh sorry, my mistake, i forgot seized means permanent, WD40 doesn't exist and not to mention heat defiantly won't help in this lovely weather

tbh I'm pretty sure the combination of both the area i live and the claims push it up quite a bit, I'm covered until next June/July ish , so ill get a proper quote closer to the time. I was just intrigued to see if rampdale were any cheaper than my current insurer.

Surely if the key is snapped in the lock it wouldn't take much persuasion to turn it with a screwdriver or similar and open the lock ?

IMO Its more a case of the PV being pinned makes you ride faster just to keep a flow going. I think there is a slight improvement in top end and power, but its very negligible. Possibly caused by the PV not hitting the flush open position as well when the servo is working as it does when pinned open, plus carbon and debris may hinder/slow the movement, timing of open etc..

A quick check for the starter solinoid would be to connect the starter motor directly to a fully charged battery, with some large caliber cable. Not done this to a DT125 but it works for car starters, so done at your own risk.. My money is still on the connections at this point, i had identical symptoms (clicking and no start, but would bump) after charging the battery on mine, turned out it was a loose connection. Check the fuses on the starter feed also. My Thread here The pipe that runs from the front pipe (exhaust expansion chamber) is an air feed for the catalytic converter and runs to the airbox via a one way valve under the false radiator panel. I have blocked mine off and it runs fine. If you have a after-market front pipe fitted, its redundant anyway.