Vez

A Yamaha dealer may be able to order you one. To add to Jebbs suggestions, it may be an idea to check the junction box on the throttle cable and lubricate if needed.

+1 ^^^^ I think you will find most heatproof paint needs high temps to cure properly, and is not a good thing to paint a frame with, unless you intend heating the frame up that is.

I forget the year of your bike ( not in your profile and i cba going back over threads). It will probably be a 210 if its standard.

Well you could try and leave the lever under pressure overnight, cable tie etc the lever against the bar. Just a thought. A pic may give us a better idea of how bad it is also. Calipers ain't hard to find though. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/dt-125r-2003-full-front-braking-system-everything-/320595712241?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4aa4fe58f1 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT125R-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-DT125-DT-125-R-MOTO-X-/260668742464?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cb1115b40

The Yz silencer isn't road legal. Go for at least a 240 or 250 main jet.

If you only checked the oil after the bike had been turned over you wont see much, if any oil in the window. Let it settle and check again. The monkey spunk wants looking into though.

I won't say the RZ isn't impressive, just that it doesn't float my boat. What impresses me are the new ideas, like the front wheel drive (2wd) for motor-cross bikes ( the hydraulic one) that was thought up a few years ago. http://www.yamaha-mo...d%20its%20roots Although i'm not a big trike person, i was also really impressed by the trike designed for disabled people. I really admire what the designer/s have achieved.

Errm, i think you will find that "Jedi" is an official religion and in quite a few countries including the UK. So the group of people who decided to do something as a joke actually made a change. Iirc, I remember reading about a guy who was kicked out/banned from a tescos or jobcenter for not removing his hood, he complained and said it was part of his religion (being a jedi) and got some kind of apology, as there is rules to protect muslims concerning hoods/veils or what ever they are called. Oh and age is just a number and doesn't make your opinion any less valid or important. Might make you a lucky sod though . ( ahh to be 16/17 again)

Was the first picture that came up on the search tbh. Like i said not that into supermotos. No offence to the RZ350 guy as it's looking nice, but anything is possible when you through loads of money at it. Too easy imo.

Filled it in, and i Agree with Drewpy, some questions were just wrong.

To remove the piston once connected, you just keep pumping the lever/pedal until the piston drops out. The way I bleed the system is: ( may require assistance from someone else depending how long your arms are). You will need: 8mm spanner for bleed nipple ( iirc) a piece of clear hose that fits the bleed nipple snuggly about 2-300mm long and some brake fluid Remove cap from fluid reservoir and fill to full mark with fluid. Run the hose from the nipple and into a jar half filled with water or brake fluid if you have any old stuff. ( this helps stop the air traveling back up the hose) Pump on the lever/pedal 3 times and hold the lever/pedal in, keeping pressure on it. Whilst maintaining the pressure on lever/pedal, undo the bleed nipple (you will feel the pressure weaken in the lever, keep pulling the lever) and the fluid will flow along the pipe and into the jar, along with any air trapped in the system, which will appear as bubbles in the hose and also in the jar. Just before the lever gets to the end of its travel close the nipple again. ( You may want to get a feel for where the lever stops while the system is empty of fluid). Repeat this process until no more air is released from the nipple into the hose and jar. BUT, make sure to keep the reservoir topped up with fluid or you will have to start the process over again. The lever should feel firm with very little sponginess when all the air is gone. ( If you have the standard rubber brake hose it will always feel a little spongy because the hose itself expands under pressure). There are other methods and tools to aid in bleeding the brakes, but this method has always worked for me. HTH Vez. Note: mmmmm nipples .

None that i saved, DTR moto's ain't really my thing. http://translate.goo...3Den%26prmd%3Dn Portuguese google is your friend

After spending the morning on the roof of my house, a mere 25-30' high, I can honestly say....................... No thanks

Sounds like you have possibly trapped the seal when you have reinserted the piston. If this is the case, then a new seal kit would be a better option than a replacement caliper. Maybe try and get the piston back out by fitting the brake hose and lever back on, refilling/bleeding the system and using the force of the lever to move it. Or there is the option of connecting it to a compressed air line and trying that way, although not heard alot of success stories with this method. If all else fails, get a bigger G cramp . We all had to start somewhere, so don't feel stupid for trying .

Hi and welcome to the Forums

Shit news Pat. Hope it turns out well. Its never the over payed ass**le thats at risk

I can only reply with a I really shouldn't start so early in the day .

There are wanted and for sale sections on the forum for threads like this

Hey, Welcome to the Forums

Hi, and welcome to the forums

Opie oils have been giving member discounts to the forum for a long time, usually posted in the Members only forum . But, considering neither of you two are paid up members, you wouldn't know that would you .

I may be well out here, but there is expansion when the bike is at running temp, and you are testing it when it is cold, maybe the seal leaks after the bike is warm. Just a thought. Note to self: Gonna have to get me some typing lessons to beat Pat of the draw

Its far from the ultimate conversion imo. Google around the Portuguese websites and you will find some real style and workmanship for alot less money.

Its a PITA spraying bars imo. I would get them powder coated, its alot easier and possibly cheaper, depending how much you value your time that is. I.e Bars:1/2 day prep, 1 day painting. 3 cans of paint/primer/lacquer £30-35 + risk of mistakes. Or get them powder coated for £20... no contest for me, but, i hate prep and spraying tube section . Don't think you can spray or powder coat sprockets tbh. it wouldn't last if you did.