neversaydie

a nice big shed, every man should have one, for keeping his gun/pigeons/fishing tackle/wank mags in (do people keep pigeons dahn saarf)

Welcome Erik. I don't see much wrong with your command of the English language, puts many of us to shame! I reckon if you do it like you did the Sportster, take your time and record, you've a good chance. How much confidence do you have in the diagnosis? If it was me, I wouldn't buy any parts until I'd got it stripped down, then you can assess all of what you need and be certain that you haven't bought parts that you don't need

Have a gander in the service manual for pipe connections if not sure. I wouldnt put a filter in where there shouldnt be one. If youve not got a copy of the manual, shout up and Ill mail it to you. Is the battery turning the bike over? Ray

I cant see what inspecting the pulley and belt as separate items wopuld prove, since its likely that the noise can only be replicated when the parts are on the bike. Individually, the parts may look in goood order, buts its the combination of alignment/transmission/torque/tension etc that matter. Sounds to me like typical big company bean counters in action. Toothed drive belts and pullies are subject to wear/stretch like any other components. Is there antything in the small print of the warranty to try to nail them with?

Sad news. Lost an old pal before Christmas, he asked that John Miles' "Music" and "Lost Horizon" by the Moody Blues were played at his funeral. Welled up, memories of great fun, great music, gigs etc, and hard working talented musicians in it for the love of it rather than celebrity culture.

Wow! I'm going for a beer before a cosmic ray particle slices off some of my DNA and I mutate into a 7 foot earthworm.

Woooooooow. 7 metre earthworms! I'd never get it in my bait box! Where do they live then?

Sorry Kelum, I appear to have misunderstood your message, I thought that you had oil leaking out FROM the exhaust joint, didnt mean to worry you unduly Ray

Happy Christmas to you too Had same problem with mine when first bought. Changed the engine oil and the problem dissappeared, made changing a piece of cake. Old/contaminated oil doesnt work very well. Be sure to use the correct specification oil, without anti friction modifiers. I use Silkolene Super 41 10W40, £5 to £6 per litre. As OG says, change downwards while the bike is still moving (block changing). Youll also find links to service/owners manuals on these pages. Good luck Ray

Hmmmm. Oil leaking from the exhaust gasket. Shouldn't do that, but I'd be worried because I don't think there should be any (much) oil there in the first place. I hope someone else answers too, but I think this may be piston ring problem. Sorry Kelum, but when chain slack becomes unamanageable to the extent that you have to remove a couple if links, it is time to fit a new chain, trust me. (and check your sprockets for excess wear). Cost of chain over here is £30 to £40 Sounds like the seals have gone on the brake master cylinder. You should be able to buy a replacement seal kit for the bike (Ebay etc), shouldn't be too expensive.

Buddhist? Well, in that case, Seasons Greetings Not sure about the gaskets, but why are you changing them anyway? Steering head bearing, your supplier should be able to match up the old one, it should have the part number marked on the race somewhere. Silencer holes, just make sure that they are not the drain holes. Welding repairs? Depends on how badly corroded the silencers are, its not always easy to weld onto corroded metal without making a mess, if you weld with them on the bike, make sure to cover up the surrounding parts properly so as to avoid damaging other areas. You may find it easier to take them off to repair as you would have beter access and less risk of damaging anything else. Drive chain link removal? Why? If its an old chain, Id be worried as that tells me that the chain might have stretched and require replacing, safety issue here! Front brakes? Thats right, if you remove the oil, the front brake wont work. Where is the oil leaking from, the joint of the lid/the sight glass/the pipe connection. Stop the leak, refill the system, bleed the air out, brakes should work again.

Just make sure that the plug is tightened correctly, its usual to screw them in fingertight and then a quarter turn more with the plug spanner. There shouldnt be anything weeping out, and you shouldnt be able to feel the compression pressure leaking past the seal either if you can hold your hand near to the plug. Other giveaways are loss of power and noise. Just double check the engine oil level to make sure that its not overfilled. If the weather gets decent enough to ride, just monitor the area to ensure that the leakage is no longer present for a couple of weeks. If it continues to leak, take it back.

Dont understand, if youve not had chance to take the plug out then how do you know there is oil on the thread? There should not be oil seeping out from the plug hole, could be that it wasnt tightened up properly? or in cross threaded? There should be some sort of compression/sealing ring on the bottom of the plug to form a seal. Also check the oil level to make sure that its not been overfilled.

Wow, warm sunshine. Yes please. Welcome to the Forum

Aren't the 535 Viggies shaft drive? There may some engineering issues to solve there regarding conversion/access/alignments too. It may be possible to overcome the problems, but cost/time/facilities/experience need to be factored in too.

Cant agree with that! Buy the HHs if you want, and a pair of baffles to slip in when your MOT is due.

I reckon you may struggle to get just the heatshield, as the shield is welded onto the exhaust, so its unlikely that you'll get just the shield, and if you did locate one, then how you going to secure it. If you cant get one, you could get a fab shop shop to knock one up in stainless and weld on a couple of split collars to the shield, the split collars then clamp around the exhaust

Why do I need to know? I dont need to, but you've asked if anyone knows a better way to make a valve, or can offer another suggestion to restrict airflow. I assumed that your request meant all users of the forum. On that basis, it better to know what physical size we're talking about in order to try and get a fit. I offer 2 suggestions, 1st is log onto the RS Components web site and type in 282-5176 in the search box. I know its a ball valve, but does that make a difference?, physical dims look about right on the 40mm bore valve, cost is around £20. Failing that, the only other thing I can suggest is that you get hold of some plastic downpipe to experiment with as its cheaper and easier to work with, cut and fit/glue a disc in and as others have said, increase hole sizes in it until you achieve the reqd result. Once done, have it fabbed up in ali/stainless etc Ray

Sound advice. Had similar problems with mine when first bought it, plus couldnt easily engage neutral from 1st or second, tended to shift straight through or stick in. Changed oil for type specified in owners handbook, immediate improvement. Got to be right type of oil though. Ray

Give us some idea of scale here. Whats the distance from the end of the red tube to the end of the (rubber?) clamp on the filter? Whats the ID and OD of the metal tube between the filter and the red tube? Can the length of that tube be increased? Whats the bore size of the red tube?

Searching these pages should also turn up the workshop manual, if you cant find it I can mail a copy to you. Ray

The Owners Manual contains the setting dimensions for the change mechanism, do you have one?