JUST ME!

You just don,t get it. Your gender has nothing to do with it. You don't see that you are the only site mod that chooses to lead by example by presenting that it is quite okay to be antagonistic and foul mouthed. As a moderator you don't seem to be content until you are ripping someones head off and crapping down their neck. If forum members choose to reply to posts in this manner and the site has no promlem with that,so be it. When a moderator chooses to carry on like that and be proud of the fact that they will say what they like in any fashion that they like, well doesn't this defeat the whole purpose of having moderators? At any rate this is the last I will be saying regarding the issue because, quite simply, if the site administators do not see a problem it is time for me to, as you say," shut the fuck up". You asked! Paul.

W Who would have seen that coming? The unmoderated moderator spouting more verbal sewage!

Cool!

Anybody who makes out as though they have never done some really dumb stuff in life is either full of shit or rarely gets out of bed. It often turns out that they have really done the dumbest things of all.

G/day all. Wondering if anybody can tell me the bolt spacing measurement or PCD for the front sprocket retainer on a SR 185. I am looking at fitting a 13 tooth sprocket on another bike and at this stage it looks as though a 13 tooth front and retainer for a SR 185 will fit without any modifications. Just want to confirm this measurement before I track down the parts. Thanks, Paul

G/day mate. The actual term is blipping the clutch and it is a technique used on high output bikes to keep the motor "on cam". For example, sometimes coming out of a bend the power may bog down a little. Instead of rapidly downshifting and unsettling the bike, blipping the clutch rapidly brings the engine back into the meaty area of the rev range or back "on cam". Very effective on peaky, high performance bikes. A waste of time on bikes with minimal power. From first hand experience I can assure you that multi plate wet clutches tolerate thousands of blips with bugger all increase in the rate of wear. Try it on a performance bike and you will see that the short delay in forward momentum is far outwayed by the sudden increase in acceleration. If you have not tried it before, make sure the bike is completely upright and running in the straight ahead position until you get used to the effects that it has on the machine. Generally a dry weather technique. Hope this helps. Paul.

fuses?

Without actually seeing first hand where he is up to it is difficult to advise. What is four stroking and is the mixture actually rich on acceleration? Remove the main jet Foamy and work out whether the needle is clearing the jet at full throttle. Be very careful Foamy if you decide to reduce the main jet size or another big bore may be no more!

Without actually seeing first hand where he is up to it is difficult to advise. What is four stroking and is the mixture actually rich on acceleration? Remove the main jet Foamy and work out whether the needle is clearing the jet at full throttle. Be very careful Foamy if you decide to reduce the main jet size or another big bore may be no more!

Without actually seeing first hand where he is up to it is difficult to advise. What is four stroking and is the mixture actually rich on acceleration? Remove the main jet Foamy and work out whether the needle is clearing the jet at full throttle. Be very careful Foamy if you decide to reduce the main jet size or another big bore may be no more!

Without actually seeing first hand where he is up to it is difficult to advise. What is four stroking and is the mixture actually rich on acceleration? Remove the main jet Foamy and work out whether the needle is clearing the jet at full throttle. Be very careful Foamy if you decide to reduce the main jet size or another big bore may be no more!

Buy the next length needle from Yamaha!

G'day all, Does anybody out there have evidence based figures on the difference in rear wheel hp figures when running a 525 chain and sprockets compared to a 530 setup? Same bike, same ratio, same dyno, same day. Thanks Paul.

You bet wrong!

G'day mate. If it is the type of tap that has an O-ring, replace the O-ring. It swells and tightens up the guts of the tap.Paul.

G'day mate. This is just my view re your drama. Leave the crank seals alone. Run in properly ensuring all jetting is correct. Then do not ride a Dt175 at 80 kph for 50 kms. They simply were not made to do it. 2 stroke singles will tolerate short bursts of full power for many years. Sustained periods of high revs will continue to cause the piston to pick up on the bore. Larger bore to piston clearance and synthetic oil may allow you to possibly get away with sustained high revs but it is not worth the risk. Also worth checking that the plug is the correct heat range. Also, has the expansion chamber ever been cleaned out properly? Hope this helps! Paul.

Yeah you are spot on Goff. The only material that anybody on this forum has access to that in anyway relates to Jacko is his music. Many out there, quite rightly, see that as clear cut, irrefutible evidence that proves just how talented this man was. Non of us know if he is indeed guilty of all the other stuff. For all we know that could all be claptrap that was generated by the press, legal eagles and other filthy parasites just so they could make a buck. A few disrespectful people on this site need to open their minds before they open their mouths. In one thread they will be bagging their political leaders for going on like mindless twats and in the next they decide to give it a go!

G'day mate. Soften the front rebound dampening 2 or 3 clicks softer than the factory setting in the handbook before fitting a steering dampener. You may be pleasantly surprised! If you have not made these adjustments before, remember that on upside down forks the rebound adjusters are on the top of the forks. Bump adjusters are on the bottom. HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Oh OK Jim. I ride on them to work every morning in -8 degree C temps and have not had a drama with them yet. I prefer michelin on both my bikes as steer tyres but can't fault the Conti's as a drive tyre. I used the same type of tyre on a touring trip to Cairns last year in 35 degree temps and it performed well. Yes I have had Bridgies on both my bikes, sport and sport touring compounds, and whilst they are pretty good all round, other tyres that are as good or better are available and cheaper. How many tyres have you gone through in the last 3 years? Old mate asked for an opinion and thats what he got. Is'nt that the point of the forum. I have gone through $6000 bucks worth of rubber in 3 years and out of interest tried many different brands and styles in all kinds of weather. Apparently informed views don't count! It's well interesting to know that some members only post replies when and only when they have a good deal of experience on the topic. Not saying that you may not also be experienced re the topic but if you have not run a Conti motion, how would you know if it compares well with a Bridgie sport/touring tyre?

G'day mate, If it is not too late, get a quote on some continental motions. You may get a front and rear for not a great deal more than the rear bridgie price. They are good tyres and are really suitable for short trips as they have good grip when cold. HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

G'day mate. Find a nice bit of road and take one out to 13000 rpm in every gear, then tell us what you think! HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Yeah G'day mate. What is the compression ratio? What altitude are you riding at? What does the hand book suggest? IMO those claims from B Pee are Cats Pee. Higher octane fuels generally only offer a potential power gain if you increase the compression ratio to the maximum that the higher octane fuel will allow. Then the power gain comes from the mod used in conjunction with the fuel. From my understanding one of the additives used in high octane fuel is toluene and the amount used is too small to produce any real term power gains. Also to my understanding, depending on combustion chamber shapes, 10.5 to 1 Compression ratio is a reasonable cut off point for the use of regular unleaded fuel.At higher altitudes you can get away with a bit more. I know plenty of blokes who run regular unleaded fuel in their sports bikes with compression ratios of 12.5 to 1 and I reckon it is madness. They buy a $20 000 bike, I think thats about 8 or 9000 quid, and then skimp on fuel. Just my thoughts. HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Please stop! My ribs hurt and I'm blowing snot bubbles!

Yeah mate, Just don't try both at once. No blood, No hard on!