Gas up - Let's Go!

Dirt ? Dust? Rust ? It's only a 10 minute job to pull the pads out, give them a clean, a bit of copper grease and back to <non-squeeky> normal. Of, course that is, if you are happy, have the tools and the knowledge to do it. Sounds like you've got a fair old list for the shop, just add to it!!

Oh FFS..... I'm really struggling here, how is mud dangerous ? does it jump up and hit you with a broadsword? does it lie in wait and jump on you with 5 of it's mates ? Does it explode for no reason? Because I'm struggling to see what it does except just sit there on the road.

Oh tough one.... normally I do just that, hop on my steed and go..... love to ride the bike down Snowdon....... after riding up it of course

Just be aware that when you lower the rear, make sure you drop your front forks too. As the bike lowers at the rear, the distance between your wheels increases (yes it's very smal), and this also aters the rake on the front. so lowering your fork brings the wheelbase and rake back int spec. You should feel a difference in handling after lowering, you might not, and you might even like it...... it's a very personal thing is suspension settings.

It's better. I have tried a new 'normal' plug and it can take a while to fire up. It has to be noted though that the TTR is a pig when it's cold, if the battery isn't tip-top you can easily flatten it by getting the choke/fuel tap wrong. My understanding is that the spark on the Irridium plug is somehow hotter, I've no idea why, or even if this is true, but if it is true then it explains why the bike fires up quicker from cold. I have to say, there is no difference at all from warm, and no difference in performance or running attributes.

I have an Irridium plug in the TTR, makes no difference at all to the bike once it' running..... what it has done though is improve starting from cold, over a stock plug.

I use an old roasting dish, just place the filter flat in the dish with the cleaner and squash the filter flat with the palm of your hand. When it's clean leave it upright to dry, then re-oil. Oiling can be a bit of a problem if you use moto-x oil, but less if you use a spray oil like K&N. It's easy to put too much in it as you can't wring it out like a full foam filter. I normally have a small ammount of blue oil running out of my bike when it's upright, but better too much than too little.

Derek, it's not your opinion, everyone has one of those and by definition it cannot be wrong. Others may disagree with it but it's still just a thought in your head, and it can't hurt anyone, although you will find with such an opinion your ride outs will be lonely affairs. I was hoping that you would read, and take in the extensive advice I gave you. It takes alot of time to help people - in your case what is written above will enable you to become a better rider. Take a look at my sig. that green circle with a green triangle and the letters IAM in it shows that I have taken and passed an advanced motorcycle test. Now that doesn't prove anything other than for 90 minutes I could ride to the same standard as a Police rider, but it does show that I am not to old, or experienced to accept advice and critisism from riders with better skills. I was offering you the same courtesy. But no, what you did was say, or rather what I understood was 'yes I read it, and I know better' well, I'm sorry you feel that way. I only hope you live long enough to realise your error. After all it's your mum, dad, sisters/brothers, etc etc who will have to live with the consiquences of you not living long enough.

My missus did. No problem at all. I insured it under her name with me as a named rider. I took it down for her to the testing place and she rode it back. When we insured it we told them she hadn't passed her CBT and they asked to forward on the certificate number after she had. It wasn't a problem at all. edit - Bennetts I think it was who did it.

John, You would get a more broad response if you posted this on the HUBB, www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb There are lots of guys in the US who can give you great advice, there are one or two who really belong on ADVRider too...... I've not taken my bike to the US, did have plans just before the banks went belly up, and it put a trip outside of my budget. But one day, whilst I've still got family in Vancouver I'll head that way (I've just found out that I can get a ride-on ride-off plane trip for about $500 more than the hassle of crating the bike! Good luck to you, there's nothing quite like a long trip. You remember it like it was yesterday.

and your attitude towards them ?

If you 'right click' on the link, you get the option to 'open in a new tab/window' This works with any webpage, handy to know if you are looking for something as you don't need to keep going 'back'

We all make mistakes, mis-read a situation, don't see something we should, go round corners way to fast. The point is, when you do you take responsibility. When someone else is truly at fault then the outcome (insurance, police, court!)backs up the claim. I have no issue with that. Inexperience doesn't make us bad riders, it makes us inexperienced. The totally wrong attitude makes us bad riders. I agree totally with you, but the same could be said about the polutants that come out of bikes - only you can't see then or ride over them.... just inhale them. Hmm, horse crap on my bike or nasty gasses in my lungs, I wonder which is realy worse? They burn horse/donkey/Yack crap in many countries. Try going to the Himalayas, they stick it to the outside of their houses, when it falls off it's ready to burn, and it has an aroma you'd never forget.... I live in a part of the world where mud on the road is normal, horse crap is expected and cow crap sticks like warm toffee (and destroys the road surface too). I ride to the conditions, I 'TUG', that is Take, Use and Give information, I would never say I'm a good rider although after 20+ years in the saddle I would say I have broad experience. I have ridden in places that would scare the crap out of most people, This year I rode over 800+ miles of dirt in Portugal, in 2012 I'll be riding to Kazakhstan, Russia, Ukrain and some more or Europe - and I still have an awfull lot to learn. I think I have alot to offer the inexperienced riders, but for some reason most of them know more about riding a bike than I do,,,,,

I appriciate that, and hence the rather full on open-ness, hopefully he will take this on board and learn from it. Sue rides neddies, so I know only too well the outcome of such stupidity when riding a bike. My daughter is 16, if she came out with the sort of stuff in the OP, well actually she wouldn't. I've tried to pass on my experiences to boys of this age, and it seams the only way they listen and don't try to give attitude back is when you face them with rather straight facts, then they normally listen with a sheepish look on their face. A good sign of whether thay listen is if they engage with you again - Then I have no problem with them. I mean, look at Steve, Foamy, he was just a young guy but the attude was the polar opposite, he asked, listened and learned. and then bought a Jawa.... Oh well! It really has touched a nerve with me this one

The DVLA do send out reminders, but not everyone gets them for some reason..... It's just another tax, that's all, unless they tie this renewal in with some sort of test (you know the ones, to show you can still ride/drive etc) then it's nothing more that revenue gathering. If you do find that you are riding/driving without a valid liciense then it is unlikely that the DVLA will fine you. The Police will report you for the offence, but it's down to the DVLA to take action. It's a good point for you to raise though, and yes take coppies, and get someone to validate it for you (a Police officer, magistrate, doctor, MP,) as the DVLA don't accept photocopies. Oldtimer has a story to tell on this one....

(Post 2 off 2) Perhaps the kind you find in rat poison ? And the two Princes ride bikes...... your point being ? And mine. Consider this, without Horses, there would be no roads....... -- Really, your attitude stinks, count the number of "YOU"'s in the above respons, go away and get some instruction and attitude adjustment. Then come back and joint eh community of motorcyclists. Right now you are just another twat on a 125. I make no appologies whatsoever for the above response, you really are a twat. ---- OK, so I've given you my oppinion, now what should you do? Fisrt off, open your eyes, red triangles mean danger. So 'Danger Horses' would come to mind. So you should expect to see horses and horse crap. Use this information to plan your ride. When you see a horse, dip your clutch and drop your revs right off, hang back a little until the rider knows you are there, you will know they know because the line and speed of the horse will change. Often they are not riding long distance on roads and will turn off into a bridleway. Wait a little to see. Taking this approach, most horse riders will indicate that they are ready for you to pass. They may even pull into a gateway and steady the horse. Pass the horse in the highets gear you can , keeping your revs as low as possible and slipping the clutch to keep the power going. You should be no more than a few miles an hourse faster than them. Give the rider as much room as is possible, if this means the off-side gutter, then so-be-it, you have a DT it can handle it. Now, most importantly, when you get past the horse continue with the low revs - remember that the sound from your pipes is louder behind you, get at least 100 meters from the horse before starting to open the bike up again. A final thought for you, when you spook that horse, it's you it is getting mad with, and it will kick out, run and behave in an unpredictabel manner - think of your own vulnerability at this point, if it takes you off the bike because of your actions then the accident is your fault, so no 'no-win no-fee' compensation claim to consider while you are lying in your hospital bed.

(Post 1 off 2) Before I start, my wife rides a horse, personally I think they have sloppy steering, spongy brakes, suspicious suspension and the handling isn't great, however ......... I'm not going to be quite as eloquent as the others. By opening your eyes and looking where you are going ? Sorry,, are you suggesting that you have to have 'road tax' to enable a road sign to be put up ?? Odd, I understood that signs are placed to provide road users with information. Information that you then use to help YOU ride safely. Why would a horse need a sign to say there are horses there? For the first time (of many) I amgoingt otell you, that YOU are wrong. And when did YOU last have one ? YOU are riding a machine, with explosive chemicals in it, at speed, without looking where you are going, ignorant of some basic facts about other road users, and clearly doesn't understand his Highway Code (which is a requirement of riding), I'm afriad YOU are the high risk factor in this equation. OK, this gives me lots of information as to the kind of rider you are. Firstly your attitude to other road users, it sucks. Next the reason for the 'dirty look' is because some A-Hole is showing no respect for other road users whatsoever. YOU are a bad rider, YOU give the vast majority of good riders a bad name. Here's some freeby advice, change your attitude or sell your bike. I can only imagine your response when a 40tonn truck passes you giving you no room, putting you at risk. I can picture the rant now.... And do you know the reason why ONLY dog owners are required to do this?? No I didn't think so, Well go find out, a hint, it's a medical reason. .. and this has nothing to do with anyone else but yourself. IF you fall of your bike, it is YOUR responsibility, no-one elses. YOU failed to clearly observer the road, YOU were not riding in accordance with the road, weather, lighting or rider capabilities. This is an important lesson, YOU YOU YOU are responsible for everything you and your bikes does. When you learn this you will become a motorcyclist, right now you are not a motorcyclist, you are an accident, just waiting for the right opportunity. 'appropirate' is the wrong word, 'too fast for the conditions' would be my words. Appropriate means that 'you can stop in within the distance you can see to be clear'. You could not see the road to be clear, and you could not stop. You had better hope it's not my wife then. You will of course live to tell after I catch you. But you'll have a limp for the rest of your life. Get a grip you moron, riders like you are menace to everyone, you have no idea at all what it takes to ride a Horse, any prick can ride a bike (as is evident), but it takes real skill to ride a horse. continued.......

There is a mixed Thumper Club and Cossack meet at Condor Farm on the 8/9/10 October at Condor Farm in Dent. I went last year and it was a blast..... them russian bike are something else! (Thats me in the background, well my bike ayway) Yes, that is a shopping trolly converted to a trailer!

It'll have to wait.... Got a bl00dy exam on Wednesday, and if I fail I'll get....... and I'm off to Skye on Thursday,,, no time! Everything's covered up, so all you'll see is dust sheets in the shape of motobikes...

Never said a word........ obviously didn't need to

In that case, you would be best advised to get yourself to an instructor and see what they say. Teaching methods change, as do tests (I'm not sure if the new 'free driving' section of the car test will make it to Motorcycles, but it would be intersting...) so I couldn't possibly advise on what is 'correct', what is right for learning isn't right at advanced, and visa-versa. The DSA has a book out, can't remember it's name, but it does give the low down on thier approach to riding - might be worth a read? There is also a DVD called 'Better Biking' which is a training aid.

Lots of variation on how different peole ride, and that's the point to take onboard. We each find our own comfortable way of riding, and it changes as the seasons do and with experience. Now (a he puts on his IAM hat), the safe way (read the IAM way!) is to remain in a responsive gear at all times (except of course when 'cruising') so that would be to downshift as you slow, keeping the revs and speed matched by way of clutch controll. When you stop, you 'should' be in neutral with your foot on the rear brake. When the lights change you do the old Hendon Shuffle to get it into gear and go. The reason for this is in case someone rear ends you, it's safer for you! However you'll soon notice that it takes you an age to get off the line.... What I do, (taking his IAM hat off again)depends on the situation, if I filter to the front I'll be in the right gear for the speed (bike and traffic dependant), as in a responsive gear (and like Cynic, I usually have no idea what gear I'm in) and slowly filter to the front, and I mean slowly, pretty much a bit slower than walking pace. It's not often I have to 'go' from a stationary possition at lights while filtering. Oh, and make sure you plan each car you take with a way of geting back into traffic if it starts to moves (becuase it then changes from filtering to overtaking!). Then again I've had lots of practice and on a good day I can pretty much balance the bike at near stationary speeds anyway - A good trick to practice in a car park on a Sunday morning and it always looks cool too. If I'm the first to the lights, I'll go into neutral and use the rear brake, onca I have a car behind me I'll get ready yo go in anticipation of the lights changing. There is only a right and wrong way during training and testing - every other time you'll do just what you feel comfortable with, if its wrong it'll stay wrong until something happens to cause you to rethink. I wouldn't get too hung up on what you should be doing, just do what you do and each time ask yourself if you feel safe, is there something you can do differently, etc etc Running in, I think you are doing just fine. Riding rough surfaces is always a bit funny on road tyres. I have a Tenere, and it just soaks up that sort of stuff, the TTR doesn't even notice it (although to be fair, it's normally alot commother that the normal terrain for that bike), on the XJR though, it can be a total 'mare. Road bike are ment for roads, it's just how life is, and if you want better controll on the rough stuff you'll need tyres to suit, but you will loose controll on the smooth faster stuff - it's always a trade off. Remember that a bike carrying speed will handle the rough crap easier, as long as you are moving you will not fall off, unless you are mid corner, but why would you get some lean on a rough road anyway? These types of raods alway favour the trail bikes, on many occasion I've left supersport bikes behind in a clowd if dusty & stones on a 40hp trail bike, tyres and suspension count for alot. When the road opens up they pass and are gone, but it's fun passing them... If you want to improve your riding, buy yourself a copy of Roadcraft, The Police Riders Handbook - it will teach you to think about things for yorself.

The olds ones work the best. You can even use a plain Orange/Lemon. Or if you've too much cash, Maplin sell it in a spray can called "lable remover", but it's just citrus spray...

It looks in bloody good nick for an old bike, and for so little ££££ Now, are you going to sort out the Jawa ?

I'm left wondering......... which one ? and if it the brown one then I worried!