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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/09/2021 in Posts

  1. Hey folks, my name's ditchkid and I'm new here. I've come to join the party because I just got my second Yamaha bike and I've already found a lot of very valuable advice on this forum and figured it was time to make it official. I currently have a '97 DragStar 650 which is pretty heavily customised, kind of an old school chopper, and a relatively new acquisition which is an '83 TT600 with most of the original bits still on it! But not all, most notably the tank, and good lord they seem rare! I found one on German fleabay and its on it's way, so fingers crossed. I've currently got a
    2 points
  2. Dash looks the same as my FZ6 S2. On mine, code ER-1 is "no communication or unreadable communication between ECU and instrument cluster - engine will not run". Causes are " faulty wiring or wiring connector - damaged instrument cluster - damaged ECU". As your instrument cluster appears to have several cracks in the screen, I suggest you start at the cluster.
    2 points
  3. 1 point
  4. na, i forgot to mention that im damn good looking too
    1 point
  5. Wait, are you me?
    1 point
  6. Hello everyone, new member here. Located in Fareham, Hampshire. Picking up my new 2021 MT09 SP tomorrow and really looking forward to it.
    1 point
  7. The Shetlands huh? That's going to be a lot of 'round and round'..!
    1 point
  8. Well with that username no wonder he's a bit of a Ghost
    1 point
  9. Hi guys, thanks for the welcome! Haha drewpy, maybe you're onto something! In reply to you Mr Airhead the plan is to restore the TT to as close to factory as I can, and yes get it on the road. Although as you said finnerz89 I do kind of like the desert racer vibe too, inspired by On Any Sunday of course! If it was a couple of decades older it'd definitely go that way. Once again thanks for the welcome guys, cheers all
    1 point
  10. ditchkid, i keep wanting to type dickead sorry. nice to have you on board
    1 point
  11. Hi Ditchkid, Excellent welcome there and first post. Well done. Always liked choppers, so nice to see one. Hope you'll like it here, not as busy as it used to be but still a great website to visit. Great bunch of guys to chat to. Once again, great intro.
    1 point
  12. It's got ypvs in dirty great letters on a fitting on the right hand side of the engine. If you have a learner legal (haha) model it may just have what looks like a bolt sticking out of the rhs of the barrel. Either way Google mk1 and mk 3 rd125lc. The mk3 had ypvs, the mk1 didn't. Look at the barrels on the engine. The difference is obvious.
    1 point
  13. Hi guys new to the forum with a very stubborn YR5. I've totally rebuilt the motor after buying the bike as a non runner. Rebore pistons crank all the ignition and charging system a new Motobatt battery plus the carbs ultrasonic cleaned and checked. The problem is when I go out for a run the bike starts and ticks over fine but two miles of so into the run the bike either packs in altogether or drops onto one cylinder first and then stops and won't restart. Checking straight away the bike has a good spark on both sides and the plugs are wet but won't start? I push the bike home and it still won'
    1 point
  14. Hi I'm Paul and I live in Warrington in the NW of the U.K. I've a few bikes including a YR5 Yamaha that's driving me nuts. Looking forward to joining in the fun and hopefully getting some help with the YR5.
    1 point
  15. Have you got a full exhaust? Or have you just removed the valve and connected the two halves? If you're still using your original exhaust, it's designed to work with the valve. You're gonna have to get an aftermarket exhaust and probably a can too. Modern exhaust systems are designed to give a good response over the entire rev range, the exup was apparently a fix for lesser technology... I've been drooling over this for my Thunderace: YZF1000 R Thunderace 1996-2003 Exhaust Downpipes Headers (blackwidowexhausts.co.uk) I'm sure if you gave them a ring they could do something fo
    1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. OK, just a quick update. I did indeed get a cable from Wemoto, and it is now fitted!!! I chose the Yamaha RD multi fit as it has a gently curved fitment at the instrument end. Part no.AC 4245. The other option was for a DT 125 RD 350. Part no. AC 3665. This one has a straight fitting but does have a heat shield spring. I happened to have some springs from a XS 650 restoration I did a few years back, and fitted one to the cable i bought. Many thanks to everyone who helped.
    1 point
  18. With the kind assistance from Neo I did contact Wemoto and found a suitable tacho cable which is only 25mm shorter than standard, so I am pretty sure it will fit ok. I will post when fitted. Only down side is that it is black and not gray, but you can't have everything on a bike from the 70s.
    1 point
  19. I would check the gearbox shifter forks for wear, or even the drum shifter for wear plus the mechanism at the end of the gear shaft. Means you have to take it apart but on an old bike things do wear and if the box has been abused then thats your problem. Wheelies and some race bikes take a real tole on the gearbox. Just a suggestion but best I can come up with without seeing it. Try looking at this for an idea on the workings of the box.
    1 point
  20. Some know already but , well sometimes things feel like there is a higher order. On the vmax forum there was a fellow selling a set of carbon dymag wheels, i saw the advert September last year time but had neither the money or the need at the time. Fast forward, months of covid lock up, (i keep a little slush fund to pay for my biking which has just gone up through last year). Then the drive hub shat its self and the crap that followed. Well i stumbled back across the wheel add, no comments on the post, wheels had low miles, maybe a couple of thou. With tyres and such and with t
    1 point
  21. Thanks for your reply. I have now removed the master switch which was not that difficult but the cost of replacement parts you can not be too careful. I am new to this site and find the system a little bit difficult to navigate, call me stupid if you like.
    1 point
  22. {Posted a request for information a few days ago, no answers! Just to let you know I found the answer trying to remove the main switch. G
    1 point
  23. Actually you posted the same question twice and neo provided an answer on the other post
    1 point
  24. You can get keyless systems and isolators for anything 12v, then if you press a button on a keyfob its dead. Wont save you getting robbed and the bike could still get scratched up as they bail but you would not lose it. Had one on a suzuki i owned, ig switch did nothing it was just a dummy. Am looking at the same for my vmax, this one has a transponder you can fit into your gloves and then you put the receiver wherever you choose. Without the transponder being put in the right place nothing doin. This kind of thing, Bikermart: MotoGadget m~Lock Contactless Radio Frequenc
    1 point
  25. Thanks for this Neo. I found the cable in USA at KDI Reproductions for about £12, but with £50 postage!!!
    0 points
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