billa65t

Hi there check out Firefoxracing.co.uk they can rebuild your rear shock and guarantee it from £85.00. I've had a couple of mine done there and found them to be excellent and give a fast turnaround service Regards Bill

Hi there, the first thing to check is to make sure that your kickstart lever is tight on the shaft and not just sliding round,either get someone else to kick it over while you watch to see if the shaft is moving or mark the lever and shaft with paint and kick it a couple of times and see if the marks still line up. the next thing to check if this is ok is your clutch operation? hope this helps Regards Bill

HI Mike, It really depends on what type of coils are fitted to your bike? the easyest way to find out is to remove your tank and have a look at your coils some models have the coils with screw in leads and in which case you can just replace the lead other models have fixed leads which are bonded in and then you will have to replace the coil! Regards Bill

Hi there, Kawasaki designed all there bikes built after 1976 to run on unleaded fuel due to alot of there machinery going to the US. I had a 79 KZ 1000 and that ran perfectly fine on unleaded fuel without any modifications,same as my old Suzuki GS hope this clears things up for you Regards Bill

Hi there, sounds very much like one of your ignition coils is breaking down when hot so you are loseing power on two cylinders thats why your performance is so bad ! next time this happens see which two exhaust pipes cool down and which two are still hot this should give you an indication of which coil is duff? Hope this helps Regards Bill

Hi there, sounds like you either have a duff plug or a duff coil or HT lead? to check your plug remove both plugs clean them and swap them over then start your bike up if it still gets hot on the same cylinder then the plug is fine and chances are one of your coils is duff. if the opposite happens and the other pipe starts to get warm then your coils are fine and your plug is duff !! hope this helps Regards Bill

Hi there, I have a 91 3LG and had the same sort of problem , mine had been standing for nearly five years ! If your carbs are clean and all the jets and settings are correct then it's just trail and error to get it to start ? It took me about 3 week's to get mine to start !! Ignition on wait for fuel pump to stop pumping no choke,no throttle push starter button and as soon as it fires catch it on the throttle and hold it at about 3000 rpm untill it warms up then it's fine. Up untill i sorted out this starting procedure i had the carbs off and stripped down three or four times, checked all the valve clearence's twice did a compression test on it,checked the coils,cdi unit and the pick up on the motor? Now I'm not saying that this starting procedure will work for you but it is just trail and error untill you find out what is going to work for you.If you know the previous owner you could ask them how they used to start it and go from there. Hope this is of help regards Bill

Hi There, sounds like you could have a dicky kill switch,Check the wiring on your kill switch internally and externally and the contacts on the switch itself,also worth checking the sidestand switch and the ignition switch. regards Bill

Hi there, from what you say if the noise is coming from around the battery area it sounds like the starter relay or starter solienoid? if you remove the side panels you should be able to locate the relays then just try and start your bike and see which relay is making the noise by touching them each in turn to find ou which one is not working properly,then you can remove it and replace it . regards Bill

Hi there sounds very much like fuel starvation,you should remove your fuel tap and clean the filter also if you have an in line fuel filter you shoud change it, next step would be to remove and strip down the carbs and give them a good clean remembering to remove the the float needle and making sure the fuel inlet and pipes are clear. This should sort out your problem Regards Bill

Hi There, to see if your chain does need to be adjusted you need to take the bike off the stand and either sit on it yourself or get someone the same weight as you to sit on it and then check the chain at its slackest point which is at the bottom half way between the engine sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket, if there is more than around half inch of play in either direction then it needs adjusting. hope this helps Regards Bill

Hi there, From the sound of things it's either the selector arm that is damaged or the syncromesh on 4th gear,in any event unless you are a compotent mechanic its a garage job as its engine out and split to get to the gearbox so it will be expensive. If you are going to give it stick try keeping your foot on the gearlever when you put it in fourth that should work for a bit while you decide what to do ? Regards Bill

Hi there, if its the same type of fuse as in the picture its just an ordinary blade type fuse which you should should be able to get from any automotive store or hardware store and in the right amperage for your lighting circuit. Regards Bill

Hi there, Sounds more like an electrical problem,more likely one of your coils is breaking down when it gets hot then when it cools down will work again. Take it for a ride then when it stops put a spare plug in the HT lead earth it out and turn the motor over and see if you have a spark, then you will know ? Hope this helps Regards Bill

Hi there, not good news really either 2nd gear syncro is worn or the selector shaft is worn either way you will have to remove the engine and strip the gear box to find out. But before you do this you could try changeing the oil in your bike just to see if it is a sticking syncro geardue to old oil? Hope this helps Regards Bill

Hi there, Basiclly if you want to do the job properly you need to take the forks apart completely or you stand a good chance of damaging the fork tubes.If you have a strap wrench wrap it round the fork tube and then try and undue the allen key. hpe this helps, Regards Bill

Hi There, Basiclly you can use any front end you like,what you need to do is find a front end that you like complete with wheel and brakes (quickest and best method) then find an engineering firm to make you up a set of slab yokes to fit your frame. Which is exactly what the other person has done ,but if you are going to change your bike try and get a matching pair of wheels ? the front end on the custom looks like it's off an FZR. Hope this helps Regards Bill

Hi there, Tyre pressure's are as follows Cold tyre pressure Front Rear Up to 90 kg (198 lb ) 36 psi 36 psi (250 kpa - 2.5 kg/cm2 ) 90kg & up or high speed riding 36 psi 42 psi (290 kpa - 2.9 kg/cm2 ) Hope this sorts you out Regards Bill

Hi There, it still sounds like a carb problem if you have to hold the throttle open to start it,I bet it starts ok once warm !Clean the carbs again and make sure you blow out every jet and oriface to make sure they are clean. the next thing to try would be the ignition sensor on the end of the crank apart from that the only other thing it could be would be valve clearences closing up due to the mileage and since you would have to pull the carbs off again you might as well check them since your that far involved ? Hope this helps Regards Bill

Hi Jim, Most of the FZ/R calipers are the same through the years 600/750/1000 all you have to check is the distance between the mounting hole centres on your model it should be 100mm if so you shouldn't have any difficulty finding a set of calipers. I fitted a set of bluespot calipers off a 94 1000 thundercat as an upgrade to my 91 FZR 1000 EXUP bolted straight on ( ebay £35 ) Hope this helps Regards Bill

Hi There, from the sounds of things it might just be that your clutch plates are stuck,your on the right lines by bleeding the clutch first, Next thing to try is to fire the bike up and let it run untill it gets nice and hot this should thin the oil out and hopefully release the clutch plates, try and put it into gear when its nice and hot and running and see what happens. ( just remember to keep the brakes on ) Hope this helps Regards Bill

Hi David, if the guy you bought it off said that it had been fitted with new pads and when you where riding it they didn't squeal then it probably did, if you look at the disc's where the calipers fit you should be able to see the pads and see how much pad is left before the backing plate touches the disc, what has probably happened is that the pistons on the calipers have got a little rusty due to the old pads being worn and now new pads have been fitted and the pistons are right back in again they are just sticking slightly. This should wear off soon as you are useing the bike if not it will mean stripping down the calipers and cleaning the pistons and fitting new seals. but as a first step you could try changing the brake fluid as the other possability if the bike has been left for a while is the master cylinder is sticking. hope this helps regards Bill

Hi there, assuming your battery is good then it can only be one of two things either your regulator/rectifier has had it or your generator is not working ? If you have access to a multimeter then connect it across your battery terminals start up your bike an see what reading it gives you , if when your bike is running and you rev it the voltage goes up but not over 14.6 volts then everthing should be fine,if it does not rise then chances are that your generator has had it ! If you havn't got access to a multimeter then start your bike up put the lights on and rev it, if the lights dont get brighter then your generator is most likely to have gone, usually if the regulator / rectifier has gone then it will over charge and blow bulbs ? Hope this helps Regards Bill