fosdyke

I agree - that's why I do my own for the most part, main dealers are really expensive and look down their noses at anything older than about 5 years! How many hours labour?

I'll PM you about arranging a time

Hi - I am Ashford - could come and have a look if you are free sometime? Let me know..

No probs will do so later today.

Doesn't make any difference. You need to start from the beginning: 1. How long have you had the bike - or have you just got it? 2. Was it running up until you got it without problems, or has it been standing? Assuming that you have just got it and it wasn't being used daily without problem it sounds like a carb problem - but could be other things as well/instead. Before you start check compression - if you don't have a tester use your thumb over the plug hole - if it gets blown off when you kick the bike over compression should be ok. Assuming compression is ok you need to: 1. Remove and clean the carb thoroughly - blow out all the airways and check there are no blockages in the jets - particularly the main jet as your problem doesn't appear to be slow running. Put the carb back see if it makes a difference. 2. Check the oil pump settings - I can mail you these if you need them. 3. Look at (through the generator) the condition of the points if they are pitting you can get arcing which affects spark particularly under load. If they are pitted or arcing you will need to replace (about £5 on ebay - but you need to get the generator flywheel off with a puller), and setting them up is fiddly, again I can send you details. 4. Check the connection at the plug cap - sometimes this suffers in the elements, if so cut a small section off and screw the cap back on assuming connection is not corroded. 5. If you replace the points and still get arcing you need to replace the condensor. 6. Make sure you have a new plug BH7S should be the NGK plug. You should be able to get 60mph out of this bike top speed so 45 shows there is a problem somewhere - if the above don't rectify the problem it could be a crankcase sealing or clutch problem. Let us know how you get on. Good luck.

More important - Is your mate OK? Bits of metal mend easier than skin and bone! Ride safe out there - and I hope your mate gets 'back in the saddle' soon.

Excellent news - well done. Ride safe! :D

Sorry - thought you were getting the boots for that! I should have thought a quid should cover it! I try not to buy from the P&P rip-off merchants. :no:

No but having a blue and pink/purple bike is - I know i've got one! :pinkpleased:

Stop, stop my head is hurting!

It's very ickle - did you read the FAQs about uploading pictures via a site like photobuket? I want to see it in all its awsomeness! :D

Of course it's awsome WF - but not as awsome as my MZ! Let us celebrate our uniqueness for appreciating eastern european engineering at it's best!! Hey - you could have 2 and ride the one which best represents your mood that day! :D :D

Yeah - gets tucked up under its own blanket in the garage! Guess yours like mine is a 1989/90 vintage - you can tell if it is a later one by the pre-fix 2UO on the frame and engine numbers - these 'benefited' from the rubber indicator stalks, different decals, chrome forks and one or two other minor mods. My bike used to look like yours until some b******ds got hold of it and trash it - so I had to do a total rebuild - tank, panels seat etc etc which is why the paint work on the tank and panels is different - it's from the pre 2UO version - but they were a real steal on ebay at the time - have got a spare tank in original colour and design but it wasn't in as good nick so it joined the growing amount of spares I have for the bike! I believe it is - was with the bike when I bought it and doesn't appear to have been tampered with. Will post the picks prior to the rebuild when I get them scanned!

To be fair - my friend had a Chink bike from new - CG copy and it did OK, she put a lot of miles on it, it saw 2 people through their A2's and was pretty solid. Ok the chrome didn't last and the back tyre wore out as did the chain but apart from that it was a good bike - sold it on to someone else and it's still going strong 2 years on. Obviously if you can get a 'make' at a sensible price go for that as parts will be easier to get hold of and if you go for a scoot I would definitley get a make as you are bound to damage the plastic at some time - and that is a real pig to get for the Chink ones - and expensive. If you are good mechanically you could try a fixer-upper from fleabay - but don't pay lots unless you get to see it first. Good luck and let us know what you get.

Glad you got the problem sorted - sometimes it just happens that way - number of real headscratchers I have had sorted by a moment of doing something apparantly'random'. AT least the points and condensor will be useful as you know that they are new, and the battery will come in handy when the other one gives out (which it will!) just keep it trickle charged if you are not using it and it will prolong its life. Nice looking bike BTW - Here's a couple of pics of mine...

Great job - looking nice........

Good luck everybody with exams - am coaching my daughter through her GCSE's now - so I sympathize! :) :)

Very nice restoration - great to ride these little yami's Here's mine from a couple of years ago - seen 2 people through their tests - and in a year my daughter gets to ride it!

Good idea to dry everything out properly first. Apart from that you need to check the LT side of the ignition circuit with a voltmeter/ammeter but you are going to need a wiring diagram for that. CDI units are pretty hard to diagnose i'm afraid except by exchanging them. Let us know how you get on.

I agree - sounds like a carb problem - but I would do a full stripdown, check the jets, blow out all the airways etc. Can't help you on settings but there are plenty of others here who can. Good luck.

Sounds like you need a new battery! Was the battery new - or what you got with the bike? YB's eat the little 6v batteries - I go through 1 a year, and if they are not in tip-top condition you get the symptoms you are referring to. With these little 6v bikes the main electrical power is provided by the generator not the battery - and the headlights will only really work when the bike is running. The battery is there really as a backup for when then bike revs slows. The other thing you need to check for is good earths - the indicators in particular earth back through the frame by contact with it, rather than through an earth wire, so you need to make sure these are good. Other than that the relays can be a bit iffy - which you have changed, and sometimes the rectifier plays up - but not ususally. Work through the problem bit by bit - make sure the battery is good and fully charged - check for good earth connections etc. Let us know how you get on.

Hi Sounds like the battery if everything works ok when the bike is running. Battery on YB100 is really only a backup - power comes from charging system for the electrical circuits, and the battery comes into play when the revs drop to keep some of the systems going. My experience of my YB has been that you will go through a battery every year - so don't spend too much on them. The best battery I have had so far was a cheapie which I had to fill with battery acid myself - the ones I got from the dealer were cr*p. Good earths are really important on these little 6v bikes so make sure that they are good on all the equipment. I have considered a 12v conversion but not sure it is worth the effort - especially as my current battery seems to be a good 'un. Let us know how you get on.

Sorry but it sounds to me that the fault is with your training school, not the CBT itself. After a number of 'false starts' with riding and 2 CBT's I can honestly say that the two rider training schools who I did it with would not have issued you with a certificate for riding like that! On my first CBT we had one candidate who did not get to do the road part of the training because the instructors did not think they were ready and committed none of the errors you describe. Training is only as good as the person who is giving it, and without checking the quality of training it is difficult to ensure that all training centres work to the same standards, and inevitably, and sadly there will be some that cut corners. I would like an extension of the CBT to allow older/more experienced and competent riders to be allowed on the road on bigger bikes as experience on these will be crucial to passing your full test, and I think make better, safer riders - but that's my soapbox, and I am getting off it now!

None here either - Old Git's bought it all!

She's already said she want's mine when I get a new one...........saw a looovely R1 in the showroom yesterday. Ahhhh window shopping! Will be posting some progress pictures later. :D