fosdyke

Have to agree with OG Tuning carbs is a black art especially on a stroker (they have to 'breathe' properly) - I have have been trying to get my (4s) kwak balanced across all gears and throttle settings with non standard filters for over a year. Each time I think I've fixed one problem another one appears. I would start by going back to the original carb, jets, needle height etc and get the bike running right. Then if you really want to tune it, start by changing one thing at a time or using matched parts - airfilters to jet sizes & exhausts etc. TBH if you get the bike running OK on the standard settings you will have something that's pretty quick anyway. Sorry this is probably not what you want to hear....

1 large & 1 medium pleeze (in Black)

Always worth a look I have had some great bargains here + this one has the classic bike show as well

You can convert if you can find a 12v battery small enough - though you will have to change the rectifier and all of the bulbs! The generator should provide plenty of charge for a 12v system it's just the rectifier that cuts the wave down to 6v. Hope this helps If you don't mind the lights going dim when you slow down stick with 6V!

Thanks for the nod - have been a bit quiet on the forums as I was up to my ears in work Back now though

Nooooooooooooo! It's evil stuff - I made the mistake of wanting to 'improve' the lacquer finish when I painted it. I ended up having to take the tank back to bare metal and start all over again - it acts like nitro-mors on anything sprayed on top :0( Admittedly I haven't tried over-spraying a year later. If I feel brave enough I might try it and let you know.

Hi Dom The headlight will only work with the bike running as it is powered from the flywheel magneto. As to the indicators they are always a bit of a problem on this bike - my experience is that a) They run better with the engine on! You need to have a good (fully charged battery) c) As the electrical system works on an earth return system the 'ground' on the indicators needs to be good for them to work well. I have never been able to get mine to work terribly successfully just on the battery - joys of the 6v system that was never really designed to power indicators I suppose.....

Hi For information the points are located behind the flywheel on the l/hs of the bike - you will need to remove the gear change lever to take off the cover. Replacement requires you to remove the flywheel with a puller, and if done you should replace the 'woodruff key' on re-assembly. The points are easy to change - harder to set up - you really need a dial gauge which is able to measure the exact degrees before TDC (top dead centre), though I have been successfull using a protractor! However before going to all this trouble I would check out some basics first: Fault sounds electrical so check for a spark at the plug by removing the plug connecting it to the HT lead and laying it on the cylinder head - kick over the engine - you can do this with your hand and check for a good blue spark at the plug. If you don't have a spark with the plug, check for one with the plug and suppression cap removed. Still no spark you need to check the LT (low tension) circuit which you can do with a multimeter to check for current at the points when they open or close. If you have a current here the fault is probably with the HT circuit - coil/HT lead/suppression cap. Difficult to test these - you can check for resitance in the coil (sorry don't have the readings to hand and you can check visually the HT lead where it screws into the supression cap - you often get corrosion here. If you have a spark and it still don't run problem will either be timing (broken woodruff key, no fuel or poor compression. Compression you can test by putting your thumb over the open plug hole and kicking the engine over - the pressure should almost force your thumb off. Check for fuel by kicking over the engine a few times with a dry plug and then checking to see if there is fuel on the plug. If you have fuel/spark/compression it should run - it may not run good, but it should run. Good luck - keep persevering and don't get rid!

I agree electrical or timing out - unless the electronic iginition as packed up.

Take the torch! I'm fairly sure it will be 6v (unless a previous owner did a conversion) - but someone else might be able to tell you more about the later models - these guys are pretty good! Good luck

Without a picture how do we know if you are 'appealing'! Hope you find what you are looking for happy NYE!

Also check the big ends as well - again lots of rumbling/scraping noises Can get an idea of main bearing failure by checking 'movement' when manipulating the generator flywheel. Good luck

Good - thought that might be the case - would join it on principle!

My mistake Jim - there are 2 on the forum one 'Jim(space)R and you - without the space - what a coincidence! I take it all back and send you my most humble apologies. However it illustrates my point about privacy as I am not a 'friend' of Mr Rundles but I could read ALL of his posts, know he owns an R6R, his date of birth etc etc etc. Have fun on FB - I think its a great way of keeping in touch and sharing stuff with your 'friends' - and don't forget to sign up for the YOC group. :D :D