fosdyke

Have to agree with OG Tuning carbs is a black art especially on a stroker (they have to 'breathe' properly) - I have have been trying to get my (4s) kwak balanced across all gears and throttle settings with non standard filters for over a year. Each time I think I've fixed one problem another one appears. I would start by going back to the original carb, jets, needle height etc and get the bike running right. Then if you really want to tune it, start by changing one thing at a time or using matched parts - airfilters to jet sizes & exhausts etc. TBH if you get the bike running OK on the standard settings you will have something that's pretty quick anyway. Sorry this is probably not what you want to hear....

1 large & 1 medium pleeze (in Black)

Always worth a look I have had some great bargains here + this one has the classic bike show as well

You can convert if you can find a 12v battery small enough - though you will have to change the rectifier and all of the bulbs! The generator should provide plenty of charge for a 12v system it's just the rectifier that cuts the wave down to 6v. Hope this helps If you don't mind the lights going dim when you slow down stick with 6V!

Thanks for the nod - have been a bit quiet on the forums as I was up to my ears in work Back now though

Nooooooooooooo! It's evil stuff - I made the mistake of wanting to 'improve' the lacquer finish when I painted it. I ended up having to take the tank back to bare metal and start all over again - it acts like nitro-mors on anything sprayed on top :0( Admittedly I haven't tried over-spraying a year later. If I feel brave enough I might try it and let you know.

Hi Dom The headlight will only work with the bike running as it is powered from the flywheel magneto. As to the indicators they are always a bit of a problem on this bike - my experience is that a) They run better with the engine on! You need to have a good (fully charged battery) c) As the electrical system works on an earth return system the 'ground' on the indicators needs to be good for them to work well. I have never been able to get mine to work terribly successfully just on the battery - joys of the 6v system that was never really designed to power indicators I suppose.....

Hi For information the points are located behind the flywheel on the l/hs of the bike - you will need to remove the gear change lever to take off the cover. Replacement requires you to remove the flywheel with a puller, and if done you should replace the 'woodruff key' on re-assembly. The points are easy to change - harder to set up - you really need a dial gauge which is able to measure the exact degrees before TDC (top dead centre), though I have been successfull using a protractor! However before going to all this trouble I would check out some basics first: Fault sounds electrical so check for a spark at the plug by removing the plug connecting it to the HT lead and laying it on the cylinder head - kick over the engine - you can do this with your hand and check for a good blue spark at the plug. If you don't have a spark with the plug, check for one with the plug and suppression cap removed. Still no spark you need to check the LT (low tension) circuit which you can do with a multimeter to check for current at the points when they open or close. If you have a current here the fault is probably with the HT circuit - coil/HT lead/suppression cap. Difficult to test these - you can check for resitance in the coil (sorry don't have the readings to hand and you can check visually the HT lead where it screws into the supression cap - you often get corrosion here. If you have a spark and it still don't run problem will either be timing (broken woodruff key, no fuel or poor compression. Compression you can test by putting your thumb over the open plug hole and kicking the engine over - the pressure should almost force your thumb off. Check for fuel by kicking over the engine a few times with a dry plug and then checking to see if there is fuel on the plug. If you have fuel/spark/compression it should run - it may not run good, but it should run. Good luck - keep persevering and don't get rid!

I agree electrical or timing out - unless the electronic iginition as packed up.

Take the torch! I'm fairly sure it will be 6v (unless a previous owner did a conversion) - but someone else might be able to tell you more about the later models - these guys are pretty good! Good luck

Without a picture how do we know if you are 'appealing'! Hope you find what you are looking for happy NYE!

Also check the big ends as well - again lots of rumbling/scraping noises Can get an idea of main bearing failure by checking 'movement' when manipulating the generator flywheel. Good luck

Good - thought that might be the case - would join it on principle!

My mistake Jim - there are 2 on the forum one 'Jim(space)R and you - without the space - what a coincidence! I take it all back and send you my most humble apologies. However it illustrates my point about privacy as I am not a 'friend' of Mr Rundles but I could read ALL of his posts, know he owns an R6R, his date of birth etc etc etc. Have fun on FB - I think its a great way of keeping in touch and sharing stuff with your 'friends' - and don't forget to sign up for the YOC group. :D :D

..........er apparently you do!

........................there will now be a short intermission while everyone checks their Facebook privacy settings!!!!!! :lol: :lol:

You have nothing to lose by topping up with de-ionized - if it's fecked it's fecked you aren't goin to make it worse! I would expect about 14-15v on charge so 17/18v sounds ok - top it up and give it a blast, if you can jump it do that to get it started then take it for a long ride with the lights off to minimize drain - then see if it starts in the morning. Good luck

Pedro - certainly sounds like the battery although these bikes do have problems with the starter clutches as well. However the jump start would seem to indicate not. If you have no electrolyte in it then you would need to top up with sulphuric acid which may be difficult to get hold of - and DANGEROUS to handle - don't use it without taking appropriate precautions! However that being said I have never successfully been able to ressurect a battery that has gone dry - so you may be better off, given the forecast for the weekend, splashing out £25 on a new one. Hope you get it sorted. Enjoy the weekend

For what it's worth - I think that most of the 'training' that you get today (admittedly better than before) is totally inadequate particularly for young, inexperienced riders. I agree there should be some parity between car and bike riders, but what people may be overlooking is that at 16 you can be let out on the road with a day's experience and, generally only 2hrs of that on the road! Learner car drivers will for the most part have to complete around 30 hours of training with an instructor, before taking the test - all of which will be on the road. There has been a tendency in recent years to rush people through 'courses' from 2 - 5 days, and think that this will make up for experience! I have seen this in training youngsters to sail - you can do a 2 day course and get your level 2 with NO real experience of different conditions! When I learned we underwent weeks of being exposed to the techniques and skills of basic sailing BEFORE we were officially assessed. The problem here of course is how do you do that with a 'solo' machine? - So perhaps there is an opportunity for candidates to 'learn' under the same conditions as car drivers - ie not in a condensed and pressured course - spending as much time as they (or their instructor needs) 'off road' and then putting in the hours on the road - it could be done an hour at a time perhaps until they are ready - this would give candidates better experience of the road, their bikes etc etc and should be done for ALL novice riders regardless of age. What you will find with experienced car drivers, (and I speak from personal experience) time spent driving in traffic, and anticiptaing what the other pr**s are going to do is invaluable. Then maybe - particularly for these riders we could skip the 125cc restriction and move up to say 250/300 - the biggest problem I had when doing my DAS was the lack of opportunity to practise because of the restrictions! For me to have contemplated anything much bigger than the 500cc bike I got after passing would have been suicidal, given my sheer lack of riding experience - again due to the restrictions. I don't think that just youngsters should be restricted - but ALL novices - and car drivers too. Our licenses are considered to be 'probationary' for 2 years - a restriction could run alongside this perhaps - only now do I feel ready to try an R1 - and I am still learning and improving.............all the time. off soapbox now!

Agree with Jim on the first bit - obviously with a questionable cylinder head, the compression test is not necessarily going to be accurate. As to the thumb on the plug hole - my YB pulls 150psi on a compression test but can barely blow my thumb off - and runs fine. So if your thumb isn't blown off it doesn't necessarily mean compression is low - the only way of satisfactorily confirming low compression is with a tester. (Jim I've had my tester over 20 years and used it on countless bikes and cars - and it still works perfectly.) Two strokes are pretty finicky over ignition timing although the adjustments are fairly small but they will at least run (maybe not long and maybe not good) if the timing is enough to give you a spark - I was assuming that you had tested for a spark by removing the plug and whilst holding it to earth (not with your fingers!) checking fo a fat blue spark on every kick. Keep us up to date on progress.

Hi Let us know how you get on - but with this bike the state of the battery is irrelevant as it is a magneto start system and the battery is only for the secondary electrical system. You need 3 things for the engine to go: 1. Fuel, 2. Spark, 3. Compression seems you may have 1 & 2 (but check the plug smells of petrol) but do you have 3? See if you can borrow a compression tester - this bike is relatively easy as the spark plug is a larger size so you can use a car tester! You want at least 100psi when you kick it over - and remember to open the throttle fully and kick it two or three times before taking the reading. Good Luck

Hi Have same problem on my kawa at the moment - but I am fairly sure it's a fuel mixture problem - when you open the throttle the mixture goes weak and the engine dies. Are you using a standard airbox etc - you could also check for air leaks on the inlet side of the carb, check your float heights etc. My experience with dying on acceleration on 'normally aspirated' engines is that it is nearly always a fuel problem. The only way of really checking the CDI/igniter etc is to put in a 'good' unit and seeing if it makes a difference. Let us know how you get on.

Hi You could try the forks from an RXS100 - or even maybe a YB100 probably similar.

This isn't the Jawa Foamy's looking for........