dt502001

Hi and welcome

Foams my 14yr old get's this...?????? how do you?

Your getting pressure in the system then you have to find where it is comming from, so check every thing means a rip down. Check the surface of the head and barrel for scratches ( even small ones),,, to and from,, the gasket sealing surfaces . Get a glass plate and check for wrapage of the block and head.If you haven't done it before simple enough place parts on glass plate,set on greese on a solid surface and try to fit feeler gauges under in varrious places around part. with a heavy block on top of part. You can tape wet dry paper to glass plate and go in a figure 8 pattern to even out any warpage/scrathces but be carefull of your valve clearences to pistion. You will need to make sure you don't fix 1 problem to only creat another by checking the valve clearence to pistion if you have to remove alot of head and barrel material ..If that is even the problem. Check it all out don't rush to concolusions Flip..out!

2 words Slice Race Bike is why,the service intervals are measured in hours 10 to be exact,not miles motors that rev to 16k with ultra light weight parts need to be cared for. You can't even bore the stock motor you have to replate the cylinder as there is no steel liner to bore. Thats why alot of guys put the big bore kit on when replate time comes the cheap ones are about the same cost as replating at about 600 usd ,but when they bore the cylinder +3mm over it leaves way less meat to take the heat away and they crack easier. I am not a fan of them they only give a small increase in bottom end power but put alot more stress on the crank so you end up changing cranks/crank bearings more often.And with a slipper piston only 1.5 inches tall the side loads are greater on the bore

If your not comfortable with all thats involved with removing the brakes you can try just washing out the old dust,if there is a rubber inspection plug just pop it out and spray the garden hose in there,if not just loosen the axel and this will give you a bit of room to spray in there. Just know that wet brakes dont work well so after go for a slow ride down the road and apply the brake lightly to dry them .If that dosen't work then you will have to pull them apart and do as above

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but it could be a cracked head or cylinder,the spark plug will be clean as new.But the only way to know is to pull the head off and depending on how many hours are on the motor you might as well change the valves while your there,and install new rings measure the bore. These bikes are high maintence,failing to replace valves will cost you large when one snaps and they will snap.

Water pump seal.Yes you can change just the seal.Cheap

That sound hurts,and i think just about everyone has heard it before and then start 3x checking before walking away. Just a tip haha dont crank you lever perches down so tight that the don't move,without a good bit of force that way they can rotate like they did. I alway leave mine loose enough to do that on all my bikes saved many a lever that way. On the wr they are realy loose and I check them often so they dont fall off,but my street bike I leave a bit tighter but they can still move.

I have a friend who goes to good will stores and buys second hand jackets and make's all that kinda stuff buys a jacket for 10-15 bucks and turn it into all kinda stuff. Bet you could do it cheaper that way and have real leather. But if you want to buy brown grips then check out brittish bike resto companys thier out there

Buy a MAP gas torch hand held not much more than a propane 20 -30 bucks, but heats better/ faster,will heat it up red hot just will take longer than oxy/ax.Heat gun will take forever and cost a fortune in elec. The guys here swear by' plus gas" penetrating oil,don't get it here but must work

Got to agree with Slice the wireing diagram is the easy way and if you can read it then your allready lost and you neeed the plugs for the cdi and voltage regulator at least,the rest could be wired direct but then you have to re doi it every time you need to remove something,be it for service or replacement not a wise way to go IMO. One of our members who is quite good at bulding bikes had a night mare trying to get spark going back and forth between parts and wireing and all he was doing was modifing a loom. Save yourself a lot of greif and find a loom there is one out there somewhere and by the time you buy wire and connectors you wont have saved much vs a used loom,you can then ntest it on the bench and check it befor installing it.

If you heat the bolts red hot they will come out,dont heat the bolt but rather the fastning nut so long as you some thing to grab hold of. some times it easier to grind off the nut and weld a new one on than piss about drilling and taping Tools are a investment not money spent unless you buy cheap crap so buy wisely and spend once. Did you buy just a frame and intend to buy each part to finnish it up to a bike?

Sorry for the ultra late reply missed the thread all together. But as we are comming up to another winter First the Bandit get's put away from late december to march,not going riding in 3 ft of snow and 1" of ice, but if we have a nice day and the roads are dry I will go out for a blast,Like rain I run lower pressuers(26-28 psi) to increase the contact patch having radials helps. too.Brake earlier ride slower and watch for shadows from trees as ice forms under them. The wr I will run hard pack type of tires as they are softer/grippier,cut the tread blocks with a sharp razor to put more sipes in them and go do some ice racing in the non studed class,In the past I have run in the studded class http://www.gripstuds.com/Motorcycle_Winter_Dirt_Bike.php small stud class ,In Ontario were not alowed to use them on the road,in ottawa it's ok or I would and ride year round.If your alowed to use them then take any old tire and install them they work great ride is rough though if your not on ice. And raced in the large stud class not good for road use though http://www.mf44.ca/en/ I have never raced in the spiked class,if you fall and get run over you look like a pin cusion.I have ridded a 2' spiked gsxr 750 and what a blast you have more traction than on pavement. But the truck works best or the snowmoblie when january and febuary storms come and even the plows have trouble keeping up with old man winter.

Hi again ..Might I suggest picking up a dirt bike and do some green landing over the winter,the skills you pick up will have you more than ready for your test.

Welcome to the nut house. Bit confused though I thought your guy's had a 13 hp limit for new riders how did you get around that? or is that only in england?

For the spring problem add another washer top the stock spring and walla you got more tension. Have a peek at what drewpy did to his tracker to make a inner mud guard . Bike looks good, 5-7 kms wont even get the bike warmed up,, better find a longer way to work or your going to foul plug's.

As long as your ok thats all that matters. As for tires can't help but I have said befor that if I lived where it rains that much I would look at full rain race tires or intermediat tires. I would rather spend on tires than other parts and new gear,as well falling off hurts slow or fast.

Stop poodeling around and rev it

Ford built 4 good things the model t,the gt40, the rs 200 ( and they only built 25 of them), 1966 bronco 4x4,,,and the ac cobra but they didn't realy build that,,that was Carrol Shelby's baby ,,,everything else is just junk!!!! I would almost rather walk than drive a F...king ford no wonder hardly and ford built a truck together might as well add a KTM to the list of Junk I would never own. Only took them 50 years to fit independent rear suspension to the Mudstain guess they couldn't figuer it out. Edit the tarus SVO v6 back in mid 90's was a great motor (built by Yamaha) but the rest of the car was a POS

Hi and good by that has to be the shortest intro ever posted. Do you sit in the bar by yourself too?

If the forks are that bent then you want to check the triple clamps as well mainly the lower.Lots of companys on the net that do repro tubes so you could reuse all the other parts( spring top cap,lower leg's ) Holy crap a quick flea bay and walla here you go cheap as pie 45 bucks complete http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=yamaha+fork+stanchions&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xyamaha+dt125r+fork+stanchions&_nkw=yamaha+dt125r+fork+stanchions&_sacat=0

PS you might be able to get the manual from your libary as well.

First you need is a wireing diagram,then main parts are pickup coil to cdi ,cdi to ignition coil and kill switch. Then charging coil to regulator/rectifier to battery and ignition,lighting if you intend to wire it up as well. The owner of the site has made it clear that no copy rights are to be broken so unless someone wants to sit and type out every wire for you,, doubt you going to get all that information. Hayans manuals are cheap and your local Yam dealer can do cd manuals or photo copy pages

What are your thoughts,I have heard people complaining about parts and qualitly after net purchasing. I don't use the net to get parts,I use the local shops 2 reasons 1 help keep the doors open 2 if thier is a problem they will be seeing me in person when I have a problem.But honestly the guys I deal with are that good that I never have a problem, and price wise they are right in line with any deal on the net.Any bill I get also gets 10% knocked off sticker price with out asking,end of year gear I have got at cost or less Tires at 15% over cost They can get almost anything in a day or less. Even the local Yam dealer is not that bad price wise and only charge 10 bucks to special order stuff over night from japan. Actualy 3 reasons i like stoping in and talking with the guys see what new stuff they are bulding ,friday after work for a cold one just for no reason other than I like the guys. there are 7 shops within 30 min of my place and it's nice being on first name basis with them all and they know I don't mind lending a hand when they have open doors days,special rides or a BBQ. I know in todays world people shop on line but I grew up without the net and have supported the shops for the last 40 odd years I think It will be a sad day when the small independent shops are gone because they have to pay to keep a physical bulding open so yes they need to charge a bit more but in the long run you get better service. The parts guys at these shops are bike people not just data entry people who have never even ridden a bike,they know your bike and they know the parts that fit,they take the time to make sure you get the right part the first time. I don't look up the part #'s they do so if its wrong it's NMP.They deal with it. The choice is up to all of us to support them or not but the benifits far out weigh the cost IMO

Ok never mentioned it be FORD but warned if you keep using such language I will have to find some sensible people.... ------ -- Well ok either way your stuck with me. But realy a FORD NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Dont do it