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s900t8v last won the day on July 21 2014

s900t8v had the most liked content!

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About s900t8v

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    1976 ag 175 custom

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  1. s900t8v

    yamaha ag 175

    so I threw on the 28mm flatslide mikuni I had on a while before doing all the head mods etc... I could never get the jetting right from 1/3-3/4 because even on the leanest needle clip it was still boggy, if I went down a main jet it ended up too lean at WOT. but I found a few atomisers in the shed !!! woop. so I mounted it back up! the pilot jet was too lean at 30 so upped to 40. main jet 170 - needs to go up to 175, 180 is too rich at WOT peak rpm which is about 10-11k before it comes off the pipe. the atomiser was a 175 series Q4 which is very rich, I substituted
  2. s900t8v

    yamaha ag 175

    hey blackhat I'm going to try blasting some used steels and use them with used good frictions within spec. I guess blasting them without warping may be a bit tricky. lever pull is ok! I am getting new levers cos the current clutch one is heavily worn. I used this stator/rotor kit - see it uses the same stator plate as the points ignition ct/at/early dt series The AG series CDI is interesting, it used a single stage coil setup with pulser mounted on top of source coil to trigger the CDI unit which makes it look similar to the 2 stage DT CDI... and the CDI
  3. s900t8v

    yamaha ag 175

    So the first stage of converting to CDI is done! SUCCESS! :woop: Bike started first kick, I checked the spark before I kicked it over and it barely requires any effort to kick! revs out well! wont know until I ride it if its helped the top end at all (8500-9000) rpm. I cant believe I had some plastic 6 terminal conncetors and crimp on spades in my utilux kit that actually were the same as the OEM yamaha ones. I just had to change the pin layout on the stator plate to match my pre CDI wiring loom, very simple took about 10 minutes. its a 4 wire CDI box
  4. s900t8v

    yamaha ag 175

    adjusted the timing to 2.5mm the other day, - filed the points they were sitting at about 2.5ohms resistance closed, got it down to 0.5ohms which is factory spec acceptable. after about 1000km of riding. still putting the bike back together after doing a heap of servicing ordered a bunch of new parts - new piston kit $35 - new levers chrome $16 - new handlebar grips $4 - new rear shocks $100 - new wiring loom insulation $5 - 12v regulator/rectifier $3 - 12v flasher relay $3 going to convert to 12v and at the sam
  5. considering my bike doesnt have a reg, I assume the lighting coil is too weak, it runs the headlight, taillight, and instrument bulb... I think I might have got it figured! The non CDI stator plates have 2 coils, left = lighting right = charging. the lighting coil is a lower output coil and is unregulated so wont do 12v I have a CDI stator plate here with me, the left coil is lighting/charging and the right is CDI. the CDI models have the rectifier for charging circuit and regulator for lighting circuit like NE0 meaning that it will do the 12v
  6. hey I am looking at doing this conversion my ct 175 has 2 coils, lighting/charging coil and a selenium rectifier, 2 wires red/white, no sign of a regulator on the bike. I am wanting to go 12v because my 6v battery died and the selenium rectifier has failed. (open circuit both directions), I want to run a 12v tacho and 12v egt/cht probes - I am not particularly fussed abought lighting thats just a perk. also I am guessing 12v will provide a better spark - do I need to change the coil? did you guys put a ballast resistor in line? the cheapest selenium rectifier f
  7. s900t8v

    yamaha ag 175

    took it for another spin today! its great! I've got the stock 24mm carb on again, I am looking at making a custom stubby flange for a 34mm flatslide instead of just using the 28mm flatslide. rechecked the squish, set at 0.7mm which is fine. the bike is just nothing like it used to be. the clutch is slipping like mad after the upgrade haha so I will have to throw another new clutch pack in. think I will buy a set of new OEM springs and shim them up, and maybe even add a 6th plate in to the pack to try and lock it down for good! I am running points, I am thinking about trying a transistor ig
  8. s900t8v

    yamaha ag 175

    hey thanks blackhat ! opened up the reed cage a bit more, about 15% should flow a little better at peak RPM I actually put the 24mm carb back on while I order a bunch of spare parts for the 28mm flatslide. the 24mm carb setup retains the boost bottle setup which I think does really improve on/off throttle! I never did get the 28mmm jetting right, the needle jet is the wrong type and too rich, it bogs at mid throttle, probably also to do with the throttle slide cutaway as well. I took it for a spin today! holy cow the bike just shreds the clutch again and it pulls hard and quick
  9. s900t8v

    yamaha ag 175

    finally cut a high comp squish band head for the yam, took 1.5mm -1.7mm off, squish set at 50% and 0.5-0.7mm havent putit on but it should rip! MINTY fresh also did a bit more porting work, cut down the transfers and reangled the boost port, chamferered the transfers a bit more
  10. second that on the spray cans original color - dings filled with 2k body filler tank primed painted an cleared with $10 acrylic paints (cheapest you can get here) then wetsanded with p1200 after 10 mins of drill mounted wool buff pad meguiars 105 fine foam pad meguiars 205 I would definitely use 2k clear for the tank, I used acrylic so if you dont wash it off straight away it marrs the paint and you hve to rebuff it. Beware with 2k the isocyanates can cause severe respiratory reactions in some people and cause permanent sensitisation which means any future small exposure ca
  11. s900t8v

    yamaha ag 175

    havent done much on the bike lately put type F ATF in and the clutch is slipping a lot less haven't bothered replacing that stuff yet made a new fuel tap gasket out of nitrile bonded cork sheet (10 bucks for A4 sheet) - no longer leaky fuel tap carb bleeds fuel out overflows when on side stand, have to turn tap off to prevent this. will have to fabricate a more straight side stand (It does lean way over as its an ag bike stand) still waiting to modify the head.
  12. hard run in every time use mineral oil, get it warm, thrash it briefly heavy load med-high throttle, let cool by cruising for short time, repeat - drain oil after first few runs. so many cars and motorcycles are run to their peak rpm/load on the dyno, this does most of the ring bed in, the fluids are often dumped and refilled. the take it easy is more of a thing to ensure suspension or other components aren't faulty - the 1000km service is meant to have a thorough once over for loose fasteners, faulty suspension etc anything that could have been done incorrectly at the factory that cou
  13. s900t8v

    yamaha ag 175

    I'm wondering if its actually rich not lean, it has a 175 series P8 atomiser in it which is for 4 strokes and supossedly works ok with reed valves, but I'm thinking I might put a 169 p0 atomiser in - the 2 stroke guys say the difference is obvious even with reed induction... it seems to be lean at partial throttle with the 170 despite needle position, I need to plug chop the 170 main, I tried a 180 but the bottom end is far too rich then an now i'm wondering if the atomiser will solve the bottom end and 180 is in fact the right jet. i'm using a dt175 rubber boot, the 28mm mikuni is onl
  14. s900t8v

    yamaha ag 175

    yeah I have an expansion chamber so plenty of room! fitted it today I will have to jet it out properly but it seems great... its hard to gauge how much throttle response etc is better because the clutch is slipping I will have to fix that before I get anywhere. seems its best with a 170 main jet pops the front up a bit in 2nd 3rd with the slipping clutch - but feels lean on the bottom end so might have to raise the needle jet a notch or two to fix the bottom end. will do a proper tune once the clutch gets replaced. I am waiting on the 32mm, will be interesting to see if that br
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