dt502001

Go kill your neigbours. you dumb a hole A fag a stainaine ,guess your not reading the lines well Leave the children out of it and kill all the adults then you might have pease someday .Its only been 200 years you have all been killing eachother, They might grow up without such hatered. The rest of the world have harmonised and can live in pease..... any chance you guys might calm down and just try to get along with eachother and the rest of the world? I lost my brother to your stupid war's and have little simpathy for your country anymore. Do your schools teach love to all ???or just hate to all who dont follow your religin?

I can do 6 or more brake jobs in any given day, over a 30 year time frame I can't even remember how many I have done how many have you done Task?

If you have to remove the cap then your venting system is not working properly and you need to clean the cap and sealing rubber. The piston should slide back easy if you have to force it ( anything more than a simple push)then caliper needs rebuilding. Corrosin and build up has formed under the sealing rubber and causing the pistion to "stick" this will cause your brakes to wear faster , as the piston can't return to it "free " position when you release the brake lever/s and you to loose gas milage and HP to the wheel. No need to remove the cap,or open the bleeder screw, if you doo have to ,to get the pistoin back you will force the fluid back and duck the seals in the master cylinder,and, the fluid will be sprayed all over you painted parts and cause the paint to lift and rust will form under quickly as brake fluid is a very good paint stripper. The only time you shoud need to add fluid to the system is if you are flushing the system,otherwise the system is full all the time and a low fluid level indicates your pads are worn down to the point of replacement. If at anypoint in time you need to add fluid because the level keeps droping your system has a leak and should be fully checked to find the leak. A fully working sysetm will never need refilling and flushing your sysetem every year or 2 is a great way to save having to rebuilding your calipers and master cylinders. Brake fluid is ' hydroscopic" (Meaning it will absorb water) and as the system is exposed to air all the time it becomes contaminated with H2O and internaly corrodes. The cost of new brake fluid is far cheaper and simpler so when you change brake pads change your fluid as well.And use 2x as much as you need to fill the system to help rid the system of old H2O.This will not remove all the H2O 4x is better espicaly if you have ABS system,not that it applys to your bike Dutch but others might read this. And the pistions in the ABS are far more prone to H2O contamination.

I hope your not refering to Blackhat,Airhead or myself YDD ,as for net trolling you have come in number one. Pop into a site, not introduce yourself and call people morrons.with absoulty no knowlage of the amount of combined knowlage we have. I have no idea what is considered acceptable in afagastanine asshole culture ( you stupid fucks are all trying to kill each other all the time over what religon is right and beg us in the civilased world to save your asses) but,here.If it were a pub we all met in and you ran your mouth like that guess who would be outside bleeding ?

The heating jackets run where? and a air leak from rusty rotton one would let air in where?

Yes but if you have not corrected the problem then you will blow the new cdi as soon as you plug it in and hook power to it. If you hooked up the coil wires wrong and left it that way then it will dammage the new one, post the diagram and I will sort it out,wireing is my thing among other things but I like it the best when it comes to fixing things . I can find faults even in the diagrams that are suposed to be right . Honest it does happen with non factory diagrams and even factory ones.

Skip back to the new members section and say hi. You will get some respect and help If you cant get the timing to line up chain is streched or valves adjustment /bent are way out. Or your cam chain tensioner is ducked.

The shims are to stop brake squeel a small amount of lube should be aplied between shim and pad. Push the pistions back with a c clamp if you take the caliper off or gently pry it back with a screw driver dont use the outer edge of the disk as the leverage point but rather the mounting area.best to take it off as you should clean the piston of old crap before pushing it backin.Also the slider pins should be lubed.

Hey Dutch you can order on from Yam if you want a original key just give them the numbers off the key,if you dont care what the key looks like any lock smith will have blank keys and can copy cut your key.

Strange never seen a wireing diagram where the cdi was in any way related to the lighting circut,I am not saying he is wrong just never seen a bike wired that way.Not very safe if your cdi goes while your driving down a pich black dark road. So you have corrected the wireing at the coil that blew the cdi? If you could put a pictuer up of the wireing diagram I would like to see how this is wired for future reference.Lots of xt owners here.

As you please but xyleen is one of the most common thinners on the market,and far more friendly to dry paint than acetone. LOL and dont be suprised when the cops show up wondering why/ if your making meth in your garage. MEK is under the drug watch of all police forces.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Nations_Convention_Against_Illicit_Traffic_in_Narcotic_Drugs_and_Psychotropic_Substances

Go to FAQ the answers are there to up load pictuers,you will need to use a host site like photo bucket. Honestly if your living in FLA you could buy a running bike for less than what your about to spend.

Hi marknir Alow me to be the first to bust your balls, Please go to the new members setion and introduce yourself.As we have many who ask and never even say thank you,, posting a question before introducing yourself normaly gets little responce. Please stay and enjoy the site lots of good information and people to gain information from.

LOCKS only stop honest people,I live in the sticks so if someone wants to come and steal my crap out of my house they can have it and the insurance will pay for new,so the way I look at is,, take it ,,,your doing me a fave.I will claime it and buy new stuff. When it comes to my cars /bikes I only lock them so I can hopefully come back to it and drive back home,and as I said I only have to do that when I vist the city otherwise the keys are in the truck. Never know when one of my friends might need a car or a beer. Bike keys are hung in a secret spot at home and the ignition is disabled by my own hand wherever I go traveling and cant see it,, Or I go on a vacation and it get's left home alone. Them anit thef systems don't stop thives they can find the information so easy and know how to bypass them ,make your own and they wont know how you did it. I can't keep track of how many aftermarket remote starter/theft systems ,I have had to remove when the owner was locked out or couldn't start thier own vehicle. With the proper stuff in hand for thier own vehicle. DONT buy one they are all crap,unless it has gps tracking.But then it might leave you stranded when it ducks up and trust me they all do sooner or later. But at least the gps will find it. LOL might be good if you went out drinking and forgot where you parked too,the next morning. Just a tip if you want to theft prof your bike from starting , take a filter from your smokes/fag and stuff it under the plug cap,not many thives will work that hard to diagnose a faulty spark problem. Or if your running a muliy cylinder bike switch the wires on 2 plugs it will back fire and wake everyone. Want to dick with someone who pissed you off wet it first,will run til it dryes out from the heat of the motor.The motor will stop running when it does leaving them stranded. As long as there are thieves then locks will only stop honest people and stupid people,unfortunatly even thieves can be smart.

Jimmy they were trying to rape you,any car can be gotten into in seconds flat,lol with a brick, I have afull set of lock out tools for cars and can get in any in about 3 min without dammage to anything.Never even touching the key hole. Getting pass the security is another story ,chip embeded keys require special reset procedures and re codeing of the securty system. Key codeing can be anything from just simply putting the key in and leaving it in the run position for 20 min shut it off and back on immeditaly to a full reprogram via scan tool to accept the new key chip. For house locks or pad locks all you need to do is take any key that will fit the lock slot and file em down to what is kown as #1 fit key into lock hold pressure down on key and "bump it" I helped a friend do repos havent been beaten by a standard house lock yet.The more you do the simpler it gets. Audi and vw loks are a new challenge with the roller type lock,but they all work on the same idea.Spring pin gate As they say locks are for honest people,I dont even lock the doors at home,only time I wory about locking anything is when I go to the city.

"Kreem" or "por" tank sealer will fix you tank leaks easy to do and cost about 60. But untill you sort out the carb why not just use another fuel source would be much safer. Looking at the pictuers it looks like the coolant heater is rusted through In the last pictuer,if your not using the heater part block them all off. Pulling the choke on and it idles down means you have a air leak some where. Or have the idle set way to high? try lowwering the slide height via the set screw at 12 o clock in picture 1 back it out 1/8-1/4 turn at a time then see if it will idle right if not. Possible cracked intake boot between motor and carb,or crank seal on left side of motor are your #1 places to look for air leaks,but if the coolant hoses running through the carb are as rusted as they look then possibly thats your air leak. EDIT I hope your pictuers are old ones and your not tring to use a carb that has not been cleaned. Duck me AH you got sharp eyes I had to look 3 x to see the ID numbers and of that I only got 3b~~~?

I have no experience with a tzr,but I have see cheap gaskets that didn't have a hole cut in them to alow the oil to flow freely into the gear box from the clutch area.hence the need to run the bike might be worth looking at it that way?

That was about the fast's help ,,nope i fixed it,,I have seen here. Good you got it sorted old clocks not fun to try and open and reclose,it's just the band ring around the face that holds em together,easy to pry open not so easy to re fit nicely.

Na Tommy any good pipe bender could make them with the bike as a template,Jimmy Cox the best bender in London Ont. can make any pipe if you bend a piece of wire along the center line of what you want.Tell him what your putting it on and with out even seeing it he will make em right but thats what 40yrs of bending pipe teaches you I guess. Dont right them pipes off Drew I have seen some prety thin pipes ceramic coated,jet coated ,come back to life.They dont need much to work with and once coated they never rust again, or blue,flow better than new.And done in black look great,silver is ok but looks like crapy fake chrome to me. As long as they can be diped cleaned down to metal without big gaping holes they can be coated. Titianum pipe is expencive but dosent blue(well it does but can be claend back and only right at the exhaust port) or rust and gets a cool golden colour,the pipe on the Wr is 14yrs old and as good as new.But what the stock pipes are going for might not be anymore expensive for the small amount you would need Unk.Food for thought.

Gona be a pain to get out chemicaly,xylene woud soften it if not melt it back to a runny state but it will also do the same to the rest of the coating and I dont know if it would harden back up proprely or if you would have to flush it out and start over. I supose as you have months of winter to wait you could try and see if it hardens back up the xylene would vapour off in a day or so.

Hey Scottie the lights and everything else would still work ,the cdi is only going to stop it from running.So unless you have the rest working you havent found your problem.

Hi Mitch welcome to the club and big bikes.

I would suggest you check the ignition switch plug hasn't been knock loose,and the old oops I hit the kill switch.Confirm the battery is charged with a multi meter or even just a test light.A week battery can make for hard starting.And confirm you have power to the ignition switch comming in and out with the key on. Then work backwards by undooing what you did untill you find what you did wrong if anything,would seem that you have accidently un pluged something.

As I have no Idea about your laws that one makes no sence should be the same as the above laws. Hope it gets passed. Here ,,Hit someone and well forget about driving for quite awhile. Even if you dont go to jail. The cops here wouldn't charge you with anything less than impriosment type charges and the list would be large of offences ,disreguard for human life would be on the list, lack of care and control, failure to obey traffict sign, failure to give right of way, crossing a intersection with out ringing a bell could even be added,, and the list could go on, If you hit a pedestrion you would not walk away with a few pionts on your licence.They would take 2 points here and 3 there an 5 there and by the time they were done you wouldn't have any. And if you got off without jail time it would cost you large,to the point that you probably wouldn't be able to afford insurance.

gremlins in a old bike are to be expected,You might be able to just shim the seal out a bit so it's not riding on the same part of the shaft.And pre lube it with some grease,if you put it in dry the last time then it can fail quite quickly,lots of heat right there. lube the seal in the center between the 2 lips of the seal where it rides on the shaft.NOT alot just enough to fill the V between. I use "super lube" ( from permatex,actualy that is the only lube I use on the whole bike works for elec's connections and swing arm bushings, steering head ect it's wonderfull stuff) but any good grease will work. But for 30 why do it 3x times new shaft seal and she should be good to go for many miles they are a slow wear item. LOl told you it would be better to buy the shim kit,you will be in there alot and it's a pain when you dont have the right one. How did the 15t sprocket work out.?