neversaydie

try wemoto, most online parts suppliers will have them, as they are compatable with other bikes. Remember to get a new tab washer with the sprocket, cost should be about a tenner for both. While youve got the chain off, clean it with parrafin, let it dry completlelty, then put some chain oil on it. Dont forget youll have to check and adjust the chain tension, and the rear brake, as the rear wheel position will have moved relative to the front sprocket Shout up if you need to Good luck

Was it "sticking" before the service? Is the clutch lever returning to correct position? Is the inner cable free to move in the outer? Watch what happens at the bottom end of the cable on the engine, does the lever move back and forth? Is the spring still on? What type of oil did you use?

I think that the standard front spocket has 16 teeth, moving to 17 will lower the engine revs and the bike will cruise comfortably at 60 mph, but it will start to slow when it has to go uphill. Topped out at 70 mph on the flat I tried going down a tooth too to 15, better accelration, and despite what many others found when they tried this, the bike topped out at 75mph. Engine revs were higher though in normal traffic, so I decided to stick with the 17tooth sprocket on the front, as I was just commuting on it as flat roads.

I would say most definitely no. Explore the options of reducing/increasing the number of teeth on the drive sprockets, there are plenty of threads on this site on the subject. I always comes down to personal preference. I long ago settled on one tooth up on the front sprocket, because that gave me the best balance of performance for my travelling. Others have gone one tooth less for better acceleration.

Whenever you remove and refit bolts crews etc, always refit with some Copaslip or similar anti seize compound on the threads. Makes it easier to get em out next time around

Oil level ok? When did you last change the oil and filter? Freeplay adjusted as per the manual?

Cruiser, as opposed to custom style. Muscle style cruiser, similar to the new Ducati cruiser.

Should be in the side panel that has the lock on it. Dont expect too much in the way of toolsthough. I think the original kit had a screwdriver, plug box spanner, a couple of allen keys, and a spanner (if its still there) Never seen a dragstar tool roll, but I have seen good looking leather ones from other suppliers on XVS 125s

Kelum, get yourself a proper penetrating oil if you have seized bolts/screws. Commonly used here is Plusgas. It the bolts/screws dont shift first time, then soak them overnight with the penetrating oil. Dont bugger up the hexagon heads/socket caps, or youll end up having to drill them out. Try to turn them both ways a touch at a time, keep soaking them. You can tap the bolt/screw head with a hammer as the shock can also help to release the bolt (but dont damage the head). Focused application of heat (not red hot) to the bolt or screw can also help to release them. Patience, patience, and more patience

Spose the thing about customising is that you limit your potential customers, as its your personal statement, rather than someones elses. i doubt any further additions will increase value I was offered £900 in px for my absolutely mint XVS125 2001, probably get 1500 to 1750 private (its not for sale cos people cut em up ). I reckon, tot up what youve spent on it, then add 30% Have you had it on the road yet?

Try fitting a Fender Extender/Fender Flicka to the front fender to prevent the water and crap throwing up onto the engine I thought you'd solved the oil leak problem some weeks ago, didnt you fit new gaskets etc?

Wow, what a great game. Reminds me a bit of the game we used to play as kids around here, Rusty Bum Finger and Thumb

Thanks for the terrific response chaps Decision: Its not a sports bike Its only just off centre There dont appear to be any other repairs Sidewalls in good nick Front will require replacing in estimated 500 - 1000miles Going for plugged repair at reputable local supplier New pair avon venoms when front is replaced Thanks again

Nail just off centre in rear tyre on the xv750, are repairs advisable, safe, or is best to replace the tyre? It looks like there is a british standard for repairs, so I guess it should be acceptable to repair, but I'd like to get some views on it from my fellow riders, given the importance. Thanks

What a hoot

Agreed. How many EN 500s will be on the road in 15 years time? How many 535s will STILL be on the road in 15 years time Belt drive as long lasting and cost effective as drive shaft? Pull the other one Faster? How fast do you wanna go on your first big bike? 535 is capable of 95mph, will cruise all day at 80. I'm detecting danger signals here Good luck with the EN 500 and good luck with the test, let us know how you get on

I suppose its possible that the woodruff may have sheared and the 2 parts could be "welded" together, but thats an absolute worst case scenario. You dont have to red heat it, a hair dryer or one of those hot air paint strippers should be enough. The centre screw on your puller is pushing against something solid, and the stator is off, yes?

A tip for removing/refitting hex cap screws that have a rounded socket is to use a Torx key. Find the size that, when you tap it into the hex socket, it cuts its way into the side walls of the socket and then gives you a good grip. Replacment screws should be easily available for your local bolt/fastener merchant. look in your yellow pages. Alternativey, companies like Cromwell Tools have dozens of branches nationwide

The Virago 535 has a reputation for being robust, reliable, and easy to ride, and should return 50+mpg As Leatherat says, there are plenty of good ones for sale at good value, the 535 was Europes top selling cruiser in the 90s

I thought they stopped making them in 04 too. If youre strapped for cash, you can remove the existing disc and have it skimmed to remove the scoring marks. Find a local engineering workshop or do you know someone with a lathe. Minimum allowable thickness is 4.5mm, dont go thinner than that. Its a beer money job Torque the disc bolts back up to 23Nm, and use Loctite threadlocker on them

Dont know the bike but Haynes says remove rotor (magneto?) bolt and washer, stick a puller and jack it off. Theres a woodruff key in there, but once thats cleared, (it looks like the shaft may be tapered) so it should just slide off. Pentrtating oil down the shaft (let it soak for a while), and some sharp taps on the end of the puller bolt may help to shock it free. Application of a bit of heat could do the trick too.

Bitch

Toolkit One spanner, one allen key, and a spark plug spanner? Under the removeable panel on the right hand side below the seat

Starting from cold (even in summer); choke full on/no throttle/hit starter/engine starts and revs high/leave for 10 secs/close choke by 1/3rd/ ride off/after 1/2 mile close choke to 1/2/after mile - mile and half close choke Starting a warm engine; no choke/give it throttle as OG says, check air filter/plugs/tickover/and the black rubber piece between the carbs for cracks and splits

If its still as the photo, the connectors are there mate, just push them together. If not, you can crimp on some new male and female connectors