neversaydie

Might be worth checking compatibility with the E10 fuel, if that's what you've got in it. It may be buggering up the fuel system

Shouldnt ride like that at all. When new the ride was reported to be "plush". Last ones were made in 2004, dont know how old yours is, but its likely the forks are due for a refresh. They would have been on the soft side as new. Check the swingarm pivot is not seized

Try entering the registration number into the search box on the RS Paints website. It should give you all of the paint codes

Cylinder compatability: DT125 1987 2AJ SPAIN 272AJ-352S1 DT125LC 1986 35A ENGLAND 2635A-310E1 DT125LC 1986 35E SWITZERLAND 2635E-361E1 DT125LC 1986 57U EUROPE 2657U-300E1 DT125LC 1987 1HR FRANCE 2757U-351F1 DT125LC 1987 35A ENGLAND 2735A-310E1 DT125LC 1987 35E SWITZERLAND 2735E-361E1 DT125LC 1987 57U EUROPE 2757U-300E1 DT125LC 1987 57U FRANCE 2757U-351F1 DT125LCF (22PS) 1986 57U FRANCE 2657U-351F1 Piston compatability: DT125 1987 2AJ SPAIN 272AJ-352S1 DT125LC 1986 35A ENGLAND 2635A-310E1 DT125LC 1986 35E SWITZERLAND 2635E-361E1 DT125LC 1986 57U EUROPE 2657U-300E1 DT125LC 1987 1HR FRANCE 2757U-351F1 DT125LC 1987 35A ENGLAND 2735A-310E1 DT125LC 1987 35E SWITZERLAND 2735E-361E1 DT125LC 1987 57U EUROPE 2757U-300E1 DT125LC 1987 57U FRANCE 2757U-351F1 DT125LCF (22PS) 1986 57U FRANCE 2657U-351F1# Info from the CMSNL website

Travelling the bike on a trailer in neutral is unlikely to damage the gearbox. Occasional neutral to first problems aren't rare, many riders adopt the technique of slipping the bike into first while it is still moving (just before coming to a stop at junctions etc), because the parts are still rotating, it makes it easier to find first gear.

Your electrical connections and earthing points need to be clean and dry. Charge the battery up fully, le tit stand and see if the voltage drops. Fully charged should be around 13 volts, if it drops quickly after charging its goosed. Try using this fault finding process:https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1x1ojthv4h7925/Troubleshooting 3P PMG %26 RR.pdf?dl=0

I dont think its possible to change the options as you describe without altering anything I believe that when you turn on the ignition, the sidelights and the nearside dipped beam will come on. The dipped beam will go off when you press the starter, then come on again when the bike is started, and stay on. When you go to full beam, the dipped will go off and the offside full beam will stay on, the reverse takes place when you switch back to dipped beam. Press the flasher switch and the dipped will go off and offside the main beam will come on. I think. But, bear in mind that many fazer riders alter both the wiring and the lamps (bulbs) to bring both lights on at the same time. Technically, its illegal, but gives better lighting for nightime riding. Id check the wiring out against standard before doing anything else

Part No 4MY8230500. Also found on: Yamaha XTZ660 (35.3KW) 1994 4MY1 GERMANY 244MY-332G1Yamaha XTZ660 (25KW) 1994 4NW1 GERMANY 244MY-332G1Yamaha XTZ660 1994 4MY1 FRANCE 244MY-351F1Yamaha XTZ660 1994 4MY2 SPAIN 244MY-352S1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 BELGIUM 264MY-300E1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 DENMARK 264MY-300E1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 FINLAND 264MY-300E1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 ENGLAND 264MY-300E1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 GREECE 264MY-300E1Yamaha XTZ660 1996 4MY3 ITALY 264MY-300E1

July? I was there on the twelfth

Did you book one? I've not been able to log in on here for several weeks but all appears to be working again now. I take the point about sessions being red flagged, I've noticed there are more of them than when I first started trackdays, and I put it down to more riders having lap timers fitted onto the dash/bars than ever before. I reckon they ride around with one eye on the timer, trying to gain every available nano second at the expense of safety/courtesy. There's plenty of examples on Youtube of dodgy over/undertakes at corners. If I see a bunch gathering in front of me, I'll let them get further in front rather than take risks. Its my only bike. I was up there again in August and then again Sept 8th, that's it now for this year.

Had a ride up to CMC Clay Cross, only to find the showroom closed. Had a coffee, then rode back home just keeping in front of the rain all the way

If successful, thatll give a good gain in HP, but its a fair bit of work to do, and theres always the risk of failure. Youd need to notify insurance, DVLA. Id have alook at the CMSNL website and compare the parts numbers for the two models before starting, just to check compatability

Two groups, novice/inter and inter/advanced. Seemed to work fine, because it was evening, I got the impression more riders rode there than van/trailered. I was in novice/inters, there were some very fast lads in it too, and a couple of instances of dodgy over/undertakes, but all in all just about right for me. Inters/fast tended to be litre plus/track type bikes. Only one red flag in our group, and the marshalls had the black flag out to a couple of riders early on. Plenty of room in the paddock too. One group on, one group off, so only 20 minutes between the sessions, four sessions each group, first group on at 5.30.

Did an evening track session at Donington Wednesday 9th, nice and ry, first since last Sept. Rusty riding at first, disturbed the gravel a little, but smoother in the later sessions.

Have a look at this https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1x1ojthv4h7925/Troubleshooting 3P PMG %26 RR.pdf?dl=0

Dash looks the same as my FZ6 S2. On mine, code ER-1 is "no communication or unreadable communication between ECU and instrument cluster - engine will not run". Causes are " faulty wiring or wiring connector - damaged instrument cluster - damaged ECU". As your instrument cluster appears to have several cracks in the screen, I suggest you start at the cluster.

http://yamaha-virago.blogspot.com/2018/10/induction-coils.html Cross reference the part numbers and models, the info is there Dont mention it

Ace wheeler dealing

I take the fairings (lowers) off my fazer, slip rubber gloves over the exhaust outlets, rinse with cold water, wash with whatever ive got at the time, chammy off what I can get at, then blow dry with the compressor. Leave it a day or two, then cover over the brakes/wheels, seat off, using a low pressure spray gun (5psi), spray all over with ACF50. Leave a day, then wipe off any excess which has formed. I pivot the tank and get underneath that too, all around and under the swinger, get it right into the engine, and particularly the manifold area, as the clamp bolts are notorious for corroding. When that's done, wipe over the brake discs with brake cleaner, take the calipers off and clean the insides with a little detergent and water, red grease the exposed pistons. A fair bit of work, but you can spot stuff that might need doing while you're at it. Chain is blow dried, then oiled up.

Personal choice really I suppose, like how much high viz do you want to wear. If theres a twat on his phone behind you, it may make no difference as hes not looking anyway. Not for me.

Hope you find it. I had one for 5 years, before I traded it in. Absolutely belting bikes for 80s air cooled. Its been for sale twice since for over twice the money I traded it for, and I came so close to buying it back, but decided against as subsequent owners looked to have neglected it somewhat, and I couldnt afford to buy it and throw money at it again

Have a look here https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xj750r-seca-1982-c-usa_model8879/partslist/?filter_assembly_group=electrical#.YBA_juj7SUn

Battery. Needs to be fully charged. Check the terminals are secure, clean and dry.

Try here https://www.manualslib.com/manual/612293/Yamaha-Ybr250.html. Good luck with the trip

Thats a neat little piece of work. I'll bear that in mind if my hands get any worse. Bit of arthritis, but plagued with trigger finger at the moment, and cant get either an NHS or private session to correct it in the foreseeable future. But I'm countin my blessings as so far we're covid free