JUST ME!

G,day Foamy! Go up a size with the main jet and see if this improves things. Still sounds a bit lean to me. Remember way back when we suggested slightly rich was a far better way to start! If it is actually running so much better with the choke on, you may have to go up a couple of jet sizes. When you do get it right it may also be worth running a plug one unit cooler. I would'nt continue to fang it until it is right or you will risk ruining another big bore kit.HAVE A BLAST. Paul.

Before you buy a damper soften the front rebound dampening 3 or 4 clicks softer than factory setting, you may be surprised with the outcome. Fitting a damper or increasing the resistance on a damper is often only masking symptoms caused by the inproperly adjusted suspension. People often assume that there is a problem with the design of the bike. Out of the crate my GSXR was the most twitchy, diabolicle device that you could ever imagine. A few tweaks to the suspension made a completely different bike out of it. Softening the front rebound rate made by far the greatest improvement. Hope this helps. Paul.

Geday again, If these are the sought of compounds that you feel may suit your style of riding I would be fitting a Michelin Pilot Power or Pilot Power 2ct on the front and a Michelin Pilot Road 2 on the rear. You could expect somewhere around 9000 miles out of the Pilot power and about 7000 out of the 2ct on the front and anywhere between 6000 and 9000 miles out of the road 2 on the rear depending on how spirited your braking and accelerating is. I fit and balance the tyres on both of my machines and some of my friends machines and always try to encourage them to atleast fit sports tyres to the front as when ridden reasonably mildly, commuting and the like, the fronts last almost as long as sport/touring tyres. Little step out moments on the rear usually only make your heartrate rise, little stepouts on the front often bring the bike down. Furthermore around 70% of your braking is via the front wheel and a harder compound on a lighter bike has to decrease the braking efficiency. Another good combination would be a Conti Sport attack on the front and a Conti Road attack on the rear. Just keep it in mind that none of these rear tyres including the BT-021 are completely compatible with the power out put and lean angle capabilities of your r1. On a warm day on hotmix these tyres will perform fine but it is in the less than ideal conditions that the sport tyres really show their worth. If you have your mind set on Bridgestones something like an 016 would be far better on the front. Metzeler Sport tec m3s are also quite good and even though they are classed as a sports tyre they give outstanding mileage. Just warm them up well before any mountain blasts.HOPE THIS HELPS! Paul.

Geday mate, It depends on how often it is going to be ridden as an r1 was intended to be ridden. The worst thing you can do is fit harder compound tyres on sports bikes to increae tyre life and then ever ride it like a sports bike. If you can provide more info on how it will be ridden then I would be happy to supply my thoughts on what may be suitable. These things are madness on the right rubber and deadly on the wrong stuff! HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Geday, PP2ct is the best front tyre I have used and Continental Sport Attack in compound C is the best rear tyre I have used. Currently running a new Continental Motion on the rear of my blackbird and it has fantastic lateral grip for a lower end of the range tyre. Don't know if it would develop the same lateral grip on a lighter machine. If money and poor mileage is of little concern Pirellies and the new super soft Bridgestones would be hard to beat. The beauty of PP2cts on the front is that they grip as good as any other front tyre that you can get but they also wear well and are around your normal front tyre purchase price. The compound layout is different to the rear and,IMO, the rear is not as good however plenty of people out there love the rears as well. I don't know how much wet weather riding you do but the Sport attack on the rear seems also to be a better rain tyre. Conti also do a Race Attack that is approved for road use but your cornering would have to be really out there on the street to justify fitting them. From what I have seen ultra extreme cornering on public roads eventually leads to ultra extreme death. HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Geday Mate. The Conti force is now quite an old tyre. It has been replaced with the Conti motion and thus far seems bloody good for the money. Have a look at the date code on the side of the tyre. This tyre may be a little older than you think. The signs you describe indicate a balance problem or the rim and/or tyre running out of true. Either way it sounds like you need to replace it and I doubt that Continental will show munch interest in the problem. I would run a Michelin Pilot Power or Pilot Power 2ct on the front. They provide fantastic grip and still last really well on the front. Around 6000 miles for the PP2ct and 9000 for the standard PP. Having said that, the Contis are a very good rear tyre. Grip wise the Conti motion is very close to the Conti sport attack. Yet to see what kind of mileage you can expect. Just another little thought. Have they fitted the tyre so as it is running in the correct direction of rotation? HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Geday mate. So you say the screws are now buggered. As such borrow a Dremel off someone and fitted with a good quality engraving tip gouge are large slot accross the head of each screw. Then get the appropriate regular bladed screwdriver and place a dab of course valve grinding paste on the head of the screw. This causes the blade of the screwdriver to bite better. For future purposes this works even better on Phillip's head as it reduces the climbing action due to the taper of the screwdriver tip. I get the old dental burrs from a local dentist as these are great quality even when too blunt for dental purposes. Hope this helps! Paul.

Geday mate, In my opinion a DL 650 or DL 1000 would be quite practical for your situation. A mob of thirty odd recently did a trip around Oz and all the blokes were on big sports tourers whilst the wives were on SV 650s and DL 650s. Upon their return the blokes were that impressed with the overall practicality of the better halves machines that they too purchased the same machines. They covered 17 500 kms in 31 days on sealed and gravel roads. Taking into account your ailments the DL would be the better choice because of the plush suspension and more upright riding position.If you are Yammy proud I guess a TDM would be similar.Paul.

Geday mate, I have absolutey flogged my GSXR since new. Like 10 rear tyres, 2 sets of front pads and 6 pair of rear pads in 32 000kms. It still has the factory DID o-ring chain on it and so far has only been adjusted back only 2 positions out from factory. It looks as though I will get at least 40 000 out of the original chain and sprockets. I recently fitted an EK heavy duty x-ring chain and new sprockets on my Blackbird after being advised that this too was a superior Japanese chain but in comparison to the DID it is rubbish. Hope this helps! Paul.

Geday mate! Yeah, just wear them on a good long ride in the rain and their shape and flexability will return. HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

No problems! HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Geday mate! Yes you can but it won't handle as well as it did!

This was Yammy's attempt at an air over hydraulic system. Any bike that I have been involved with that employed that setup seemed to work better without any air pressure. If the bike has big miles on it and has weakened the springs you can machine up aluminium spacers 10-15 mm thick that locate on top of the springs. This is a better option than heavier oil because in my opinion you maintain a better rebound rate. If you are happy with them without air then just leave it how it is. Hope this helps. Paul.

Gedaymate! Just a thought. You say the carbies have been rebuilt and I assume the bike is running fine when you get it warmed up. That being the case, has the choke mechanism been reconnected properly. The fact that you can't rev it at all with the choke appearently on suggests that it may not even be connected or it is only being partially activated. I had a GS1000g some time back and the cable mechanism was faulty so I used to reach under the tank and operate the choke mechanism by hand. Hope this helps. Paul.

Geday mate, In my opinion it is not a problem running different brand tyres front and rear. In fact if you ride hard enough you may have to run different tyres to achieve the correct feel front and rear. Grip wise my GSXR 1000 feels great with a Michelin Pilot Power 2ct up front and a Conti Sport Attack/compound C on the rear. Whilst on my Blackbird a Standard Pilot Power on the front and a Conti Road Attack in compound B gives it a good combination of all round grip and longevity for touring,commuting and the occasional spirited fang. I have just purchased a new release Conti for the rear of the Blackbird called a Conti Motion. They are touted as gripping pretty much as well as the Road Attack and lasting longer. Hope this helps. HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Geday mate, you are doing the right thing getting it checked out. Ignore any advice suggesting that it will not harm the engine.These are not tractor donks , they are very precise bits of gear. I believe it will have a knock sensor and this may be malfunctioning. There may also be a problem where the timing is advancing too far or too early. Out of interest, are you at sea level and have you tried a different brand of fuel? HAVE A BLAST! PAUL.

Just fitted a Conti Sport Attack in compound C to the rear of my 1000 and in my opinion it is every bit as good, if not better than the michelin Pilot Power 2ct. In the wet it actually seems considerably better. I still consider the Michelin as hard to beat on the front but the Conti is most definately an excellent drive tyre and quite a bit cheaper as well! Considering how much poor weather some of you folk encounter,I thought you may like to know of a tyre that has great all round characteristics and these certainly do! HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

The motor is getting hot because that style of 2 stroke donk was never designed to be held at peak revs. Short bursts of peak revs wont worry it but holding it at peak revs will destroy in quite quickly. Air cooled, old school 2 strokes run quite large bore clearance and they simply full apart if you don't get on and of the throttle regularly. Add to that the new changes to the balance and possible port timing changes as a result of the big bore kit and it should be easy to see how revs may undo all your tinkering efforts. I stand by a reply to you some weeks ago where I suggested that if you are going to fang it then premix it! If you have gained some noticable power go back down 2 or 3 teeth on the rear sprocket!Remember when we gave you the heads up re jetting your new big bore arrangement. Well this is the heads up re holding 2 strokes at peak revs! For what it is worth, I would suggest that you continue to premix the Jawa as well. HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Yeah Geday bud and welcome to the site! This little jigger looks to be all over the cbr 125. Plenty of info about it on the web, u-tube and the like. From what I can gather they do a 150 as well. I think the licence laws are different in the UK so there are plenty of smaller bikes available there that we don't get a sniff of hear in Oz. I can't wait to see one in the flesh. I am very interested in purchasing one HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Geday all, Wondering if anybody has heard of any information as to when and if the baby R1 will be available in Australia. Apparently it was displayed at the Sydney bike show. Was this to gauge public interest or a sign of its intended release to the Aussie market? HAVE A BLAST! Paul.

Geday Oldgit, Nice trick re the bit of rod down the bore of the part! That is one that i'll be adding to my collection. HAVE A BLAST. Paul.

Your welcome! Paul.

On bikes with limited power bigger is not better. If you purely want it for visual purposes the most cost effective way is to go up one size over standard. A softer tyre is tenfold better than a wider one! HAVE A BLAST!Paul.

Geday mate, this is how I approach that particular drama. Firstly remove the caliper and lock it in a vise with soft jaws. Heat the nipple quickly without making the nipple glow.Cool the nipple with WD40. Gently give the nipple 2 or 3 light blows with a small hammer. Get a slightly smaller, good quality single hex 1/4 drive socket and tap this on with a hammer. Try undoing with a small sliding T-bar whilst gently tapping bar with hammer. If this does not work then try the vice grip method. If this does not work get a bit of inch x 1/4 flat bar and drill a hole in it so as it is a tap on fit over the now completely rounded section then arc weld it on. Then use the flat bar as a spanner whilst gently tappng on the bar. If this does not work and you have not already broken the head off the nipple, cut the head off and buy a Dormer left handed drill bit slightly smaller than the thread size. If you have not used these before you will be amazed. Normally before you reach the full depth the remnants of the part unscrew with the heat and left hand forces of the drill. DO NOT use an easy out. There are some situations where they are useful and this is not one of them. Because of the limited wall thickness in relation to the diameter the easy out spreads the walls making the problem worse and if you happen to snap the easy out you ruin the left handed drill bit option. Take your time with it and you will remove it without damaging the caliper. HAVE A BLAST! Paul. Oh yeah if you try the welded on bar trick make sure the earth lead is on the bar and not the vice or caliper body so as you dont arc across from the piston to caliper bore!

Geday mate! Sounds to me like someone may have moved the lever mounts around the bars a bit to place them in a more usable position. Simple reposition may rectify the problem. Not really that dangerous because the only time you are ever around that far on the lock is in very slow situations. However likely to mark the fairing so why not move them? On just about every bike I have owned I have rotated both levers downwards slightly so my fingers come out and just brush past the levers. Especially important on the brake lever for obvious reasons. HAVE A BLAST!Paul.