nayruf

Hi Personally I don’t like quick start as it also degreases the cylinder bore/piston and crank, I would rather just put a few drops of petrol in the plug hole and rely on the vapour from this fuel to enhance the ignition,

Hi I think Givi do a mounting system for their luggage, I should not imagine that it will be cheap though,

Hi I would try to use some plastic polish, such as Greygate plastic polish, we used to use it on aircraft canopy glass, it should remove the top layer of sun faded plastic, I would try it on a small hidden area first though,

Buy it if you can, I had a Divi 900 and now have a FJR the power difference still takes me by surprise, I just stay calm and ride steady, having oodles of go in reserve makes me sit back and take journeys steady,

Hi The cracks won't affect the bike as both of the covers (Oil Pump & Mag cover) don't contain oil, the crank shaft stub does look a little messy, Aj

Name: Yamaha (1997) Date Added: 02 June 2013 - 11:16 AM Owner: nayruf Short Description: None Provided View Vehicle

The two (blue/grey) pins, I believe are called scroll pins, they are a hardened spring steel tubes that have a split along the length, the idea is that the holes in the ring are smaller then the diameter of the pin, when the pin is pressed through the hole the split in the pin closes up and because of the sprung tension in the steel pins they try to open and grip the sides of the hole. now you have got the assembly off the bike and assuming you may not have the tools/grips, could you take the cap assembly it to a small garage and ask if they can spare a moment to pull the pins out? When I worked in a garage we would of pulled the pins out for you with out charging you,

I reckon you are probably correct, I have had similar and it was a poor battery earth connection,

I purchased a second hand DT tail pipe the type with the removable baffle complete with mount bracket from the US, there was no import duty, however the package took ages to arrive, the packaging had been ripped appart and badly re-wrapped, ( I suppose the import gestapo figured it could be a fire arm or missile components.) I hope they got real sooted up checking it out, Hehehehe.

Hi I don't know for sure but I do remember landrovers used to have square number plates mounted on the r/h rear wing so the tailgate could be left down, and many of the UK military Landrovers also had number plates mounted the same way, You could always say the number plate was mounted behind the rear of the sidecar but the sidecar fell off,

Hi Ron I may be wrong but, I believe there are 2 different sizes of low level Mud Guard (Front Fender) used on the AT/CT/DT bikes, A small diameter fender is for the bikes with the smaller diameter wheel and there is a large diameter fender for the bikes with the 21" diameter wheel like mine and I think yours, both fenders have specific to type/size mounting stays x3 (brackets), If your bikes front wheel is like mine 21" dia, then just like my bike only a front fender and stays x3 (brackets) off a bike with a 21" wheel will fit, I can only find pt numbers for the bikes listed below. Front fender pt nos AT/CT2/3 (308-21519-00-00)/(316-21519-00-00) Front Fender PT nos CT1(214-21510-00-35) sorry for any confusion Aj

Hi Ron I have a UK 1976 Twinshock 1G1 DT 175, this bike has as standard fit a 21" front wheel, and a low mounted mud guard, when I first got the bike it had a 21" 3,00 front tyre fitted and it cleared the mud guard , I now have the correct 21" 2,75 tyre fitted, I can only assume that my mudguard should fit your bike too, I believe that there are two sizes of low mounted mud guard, the DT 100's and some DT 125's had a smaller wheel and as a result had a smaller guard, you can see on some of DT100 pictures in google images that the front stays have a larger bend in them than the front stays on the DT 175 because the radius of the smaller mud guard is less Aj One of the other members 'rh-dt100' posted this pic of his/her bike, and below is a poor pic of my bike but you can see the front guard stays

Hi Many moons ago on any sunny Sunday, a place called 'Enville Common' used to be swarming with bikes. We used to ride out to 'Iron Bridge' and the North Wales coast, too.

Hi I have an ALDI one also, I have as others said used the size adapters to make it work with other manufacturers drill/polishing/grind tools, the only faults I have found are that the hand unit chuck locking button slips when tightening up the bit in the chuck, the speed control is sensitive, and the original tool bits are fragile compared to the Dremel items, However it has been a useful tool and has so far earned its keep, I recall its goes by the brand name of 'Power Craft'

Do the posts look like a cube with a holes in the side? If so then I think the nut fitts into the hole from the top and the screw, screws through one of the side holes and traps the wire to the side of the square post, the nut is prevented from turning because it gets held in place by the shape of the hole.

Hi I am lazy my first twin shock was in 78 the same colour as your restoration, I am now many years later on my second one a red stripe one, Please can you come and work your magic on this one for me, hehe, also I am now gonna crack test the lower fork axle clamp for cracks.

Don't forget to look at the sprockets too, check out the profile of the teeth and look to see that they are not hooked or worn to sharp points and watch how the rollers engage with the teeth, do a Google net Image search for worn motorcycle sprockets there are some pretty ok pics to compare against.

I reckon chain maintenance is one of the things that put people off having a bike, that and the possibility of a visit to A&E, The question has been asked so many times that you would probably get plenty of information from the site by carrying out a forum search for ‘Chain replacement’ or just ‘Chain’ There are a few ways of checking that a chain is worn; from checking the length of it stretched out over a given number of links compared to the same length measurement when the links are compressed and the difference of these measurements can be used as a ratio to calculate how badly the chain is worn. The physical condition of the chain needs to be looked at for damage/wear to rollers, chaffing of the side plates corrosion, stiff links and wear to the rivet heads, also the chain needs to be checked to see if there is too much side ways movement against the side plates, also the graduated lines on the swing arm of the bike or the notches on the chain adjuster cams give an indication of the amount the chain has stretched, people use a combination of these and experience to judge when they need to replace the chain the correct techniques for these types of inspection can be found with research via the net, A point to note is that the chain and sprockets wear each other out; a new chain on a set of new sprockets will wear themselves in together and last longer, a new chain on worn sprockets will wear rapidly to match the condition of the sprockets and will also accelerate the wear of the sprockets to match the chain, It is considered good practice to change the chain and sprockets as a set, but you can find that if the sprockets are ok and not too badly worn a pair of sprockets can last for the life of two chains, some people use two chains to one set of sprockets, but not normally the other way round, Also a chain is a heavy piece of moving metal with a lot of inertia, so if a chain is worn and snaps or jumps a sprocket it has to go somewhere and that is normally straight through the engine casing or wrapped around the rider’s leg or locks up the rear wheel resulting in a crash, or if you are a lucky so and so it flies off the bike and lays on the road like a forlorn snake, so taking a risk with a dodgy worn chain set is a risk that can hurt, On my bike I don’t use an ‘O’ ring chain, I use a basic 428 chain and a split link, so the care and cost of my chain is minimal, I just take the chain off the bike once a year clean the chain in paraffin let it dry and let the chain soak in some melted chain grease, lube the chain every week or so or after a particularly dirty or wet ride, this type of care has allowed the chain to last quite a few thousand miles, as to the chain itself, I buy any chain of the correct size/type from any relatively reputable manufacturer, then buy sprockets of the correct size/type to match, total cost for a sprocket chain set for my DT has cost around £20 give or take, maybe just over £25 if I cannot reuse the locking tabs, Bikes which are more powerful and are used at higher speeds routinely have chains and sprockets that are manufactured to higher specs and with better material qualities, these chains are often ‘O-ring’ type chains that have lubrication built into the chain rollers these chains require a different type of care as the condition of the ‘O-rings’ needs to be maintained to keep the built-in lubrication in situ, so on these chains lubrication is applied externally to lubricate the contact interface with the sprocket teeth, chain rollers and side plates, these bikes often better to change the chain with the both sprockets as the chains and sprockets cost a lot more and last longer when changed as a set. The cleaning fluids and lubrication need to be chosen as per the chain manufactures recommendation, this is because the ‘O-rings’ can be chemically damaged with some cleaning/lubricating fluids. These chains can have a soft link that needs to be riveted to join the ends of the chain, and some times people even remove the swing arm to remove the chain without splitting the chain so it can be refitted, As to adjusting the chain and the amount of free play / chain slack required on a suitably adjusted chain this is normally stated in the owner’s manual for the bike, however I adjust my bike chain to give about 1.5 inch of free play up and 1.5 inch down movement from what I judge to be the centre of the chain on the longest (normally the lower run), for motor X or off road bikes with large suspension travel they have loads of free play in the chain because of the wheel movement but they often have rollers or chain guides that control the chain tension , I then sit on the bike to check the chain does not become tight as the suspension is compressed and then check that the chain will not rub anywhere on the bike that it is not supposed to, such as the swing arm or the chain guard, I then look along the length of the chain and check to see that the chain follows a straight track from the rear sprocket to the front sprocket and that the side plates of the chain engage the teeth of the sprocket without rubbing on the chain side plates excessively, as a final check I measure the distance of the rear axle on either side of the swing arm to confirm that the centres of the axle are the same distance from the end of the swing arm on either side, a single sided swing arm is slightly different, Disclaimer: This is pretty much how I care for the chain on my bikes others will have other probably better suggestion and will no doubt have better and easier methods of chain set maintenance, some will also probably tell me I know nothing and am talking out of my arse. So I would read all suggestions ideas do some net research and use the best of the solutions that suit your situation, I am now gonna hide and go back in my cave and wait for the negative replies, Hope this helps

One of my bikes has heated grips as standard. The grips do warm my hands, however my thumbs and fingertips still get very cold, so having heated grips has not been a cure all for me. Better winter gloves or mitts keep my thumbs and finger tips warmer but they lessen the effect of the heated grips, I use cotton glove liners I have a set that I wear and a set that I wedge into a warm/dry area on the engine or keep in an inside pocket kept warm by body heat, when my fingers feel like they are hurting I pull over and swap the liners around, this I do around every 40 mins. I get Reynaud’s syndrome so keeping my fingers warm is quite important to me,

Hi Loads of DT owners on here, If you say your DT is 1979 vintage then it shpuld be a DT175 MX, (MX) Meaning MonoShock (single Shock) as to wether it is a DT 175 E or F I don't know but others will no doubt have the info for you, Mine is just a plain old DT 175 C (pre MonoShock)

I did not laugh, honest. But we all had a chuckle when my room mate slid off Darce road leading up to the Groves mess.

Hi The photo makes it look a lot better than it is, tank decals are old stock 'Lintek' ebay'ed from a bike shop in Scotland, the oil tank is still original, Oh and the seat is a Taiwanese ebay job before they put the price up, I have the original.

Hi My bike is a 76 1G1 red stripe too, I used Halfords rattle cans, 'Ford Diamond white', it was quite a close match with the oil tank and after the fuel resistant lacquer coat (also Halfords rattle can) it matched even more closely, My bike is not a restoration piece as it gets weekly abuse. Though it still looks the part.

Hehe, Two ~ Three countries separated by a common language,