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I am no auto electrician, but does the ignition system on the bike have a ballast resistor or a ballast resisting type set up? I re-call having a car that would run so long as the key was turning the starter, once the key was released to the run position the engine would die,

Is this cheating, £0.01 on a multi bike policy, last years same this year

If you cannot find the Yamaha part number or confirm the fork manufacture, Are there any identifying numbers or brand name on the seals, if there is, take a note, measure the inner diameter the outer diameter the seal height and count the number of sealing lips, normally one but can be two, then call up a seal manufacturing supplier give over the info and ask them for the best option, there is a whole industry out there that specialise in supplying seals for industrial rams of all sizes, the bonus could be that you get to find an industrial version of the seal that might be cheaper than the Yamaha or pattern supplied part http://www.athenaparts.com/eng/products/view/8419/fork-oil-seal-mgr-rsd-32x44x10-5 I think this is the part a 1981 DT 175 MX uses, the DT is listed on the, View all couplings tab,

Hi With the bike in gear and the clutch lever pulled back to the bars can you push the bike, I.e. is the gearbox locked up or is it definitely the engine locked up?

Hi Maybe a bit of a shot in the dark but, Having followed this post, I wonder if vibrations could be from having poorly balanced wheels or tyres not seated, I have a lot slower bike, but it does vibrate and only becomes noticeable at higher speeds and it is primarily down to the front tyre not being balanced, I rarely run this bike over 40 so it never bothers me, Just a thought,

Hi When you fit stuff like pipes, or any item with multiple fasteners, it’s a good idea to only tighten the nuts/studs up by hand and to leave them loose so that the items can be jostled into place, then when tightening them fasten them in sequence slowly sharing the closing forces amongst each nut/stud as you reach the required torque, If the pipe clamps are too bent extra twisting forces on the studs could cause damage so whilst doing this keep a close look as what is happening, You may find that even with the collars being a bit bent they will still fit, after all they probably came off bent due to previous over tightening, If you already do this then feel free to tell me to wind my neck in,

Hi I have a 1976 1g1 twinshock DT too, I am not saying this is your problem, My bike had running issues that I couldn’t pin down, eventually I found that I a bigger main jet than standard cured the fault, I think I ended out with a 150 or 155 jet, I cannot recall as I was playing jet swap with the jets a local bike shop had in its mikuni carb spares box

Hi, Just a thought, the key may be turning but the lock barrel might not be moving the internals, it might mean that the only choice would be to remove the barrel from the centre of the cap, then operate the remains with a screw driver, the only problem is it won't be pretty the lock and cap will get damaged, debris from the assault could enter the fuel tank, if you can look at another YBR cap to see what is gonna bust first, or do a google image search for your fuel tank cap and investigate how best to trick the cap, though sometimes a full on physical assault of a cap can make things worse, Good luck,

Hi Are you sure the single side swing arm is not off another bike? I have read about a Honda 650 Hawk swing arm being fitted to a 92 TDM on an aprillia forum.

I would assume the Haynes manual means that it is only acceptable to use a split link in an, ‘O’ ring chain as a temporary emergency fix, as the split link would be the weakest part and so a likely fail point, Chains designed to be run with a split link connection are fine and have been used for many years. Be sure that the link is fitted the correct way round, closed end facing direction chain travel.

Hi, Welcome, You could probably do a search on the site and find out how to set up/check your oil pump, I just use any mid range quality motorcycle two stroke oil for my bike, the motor is pretty rugged full on synthetics are probably a waste, fuel/petro.l I just use what is cheapest at the pump, but I would try to use fuel that is low in ethanol content. You would be better served by starting a thread in the work shop for propper advice on the pump question, However I sometimes pull the oil feed off the carburettor for a second with the motor running to see for oil flow, Or I pull the oil pump cable at the oil pump with the motor running and note extra smoke in the exhaust Some people advocate changing out the black oil feed pipe for a clear one so they can see oil in the pipe. I am not saying that what I do is the best or correct method but it works for me, However I would check out any You tube clips on setting up Yamaha autolube pumps, they all work in much the same way, There is also a pdf and other free downloadable information on the internet on the strip, rebuild and working of autolube pumps

Hi When riding my DT and previous bikes such as a 400/4 and a Diversion 900, occasionally I would try for the next gear to find that I was already in top, if I was unsure whether I was in top gear or not I found if I applied gentle pressure to pull the lever up and the lever felt solid there should be another gear available, if when I applied the pressure and the lever just lifted and returned under spring pressure then I was in top, After many years of riding, even with my FJR and its gear indicator I still lift the lever to ensure I am in top and I find I only look at the position indicator when selecting neutral when stopped, maybe I am OCD about being in top gear!!

Hi I don’t know of a specific answer to the problem, Compression testing two strokes in the conventional way is not necessarily a true indication of the condition of the engine, my 2t bike reads around 115 psi under a conventional test, But, I wonder if you have the correct size piston and or rings for the bore, Did you check the piston ring gap at the top and bottom of the bore (least travelled areas of the cylinder wall) and comparing the same in the middle of the bore (most travelled area of cylinder wall) prior to fitting them? Perhaps you have an oval shaped cylinder, or may be though unlikely a crack in the cylinder wall or cylinder head,

Hi, So the know nothing Honda MOT tester p!ssed me off by failing my DT for being a mid 70’s 6 Volt bike unable to meet today’s lighting requirements (more the loss of the fee really), I was a bit peeved when the second tester just laughed and checked the bike passing it without a second thought, watching another £29 flying away I did a little research and splashed out even more money on a 6Volt LED set up, 4 LED bulbs and a replacement flasher unit for the LED bulbs, So £12:99 for the unit and £17:00 for 4 bulbs, Well after a bit of fettling (disconnecting the indicator warning light from the harness and connecting it to the spare live feed on the LED flasher unit and earth,) I have to say the indicators are now better than the flashers on my car, Good steady flash rate next to no interruption with all other electrics on at the same time, the flasher unit does need over 4.5 volts to work, but with the motor running they work very well, So at the cost of 3 Friday curry house meals, the DT now flashes with the intensity of a lighthouse, we needed to lose some weight anyhow, Classiccarleds.co.uk if anyone is interested in 6 volt LEDs, the guy on the end of the phone was helpful too, No doubt other sites would have been cheaper, but having already spent nearly £60 I figured what the heck,

I would love to be able to ride my old yellow 4/400, It died in 1982 (new owner Killed it and busted his leg), I swapped it for a yellow Dolimite Sprint (RIP 1984 wall fence interface problem) all because of an unfaithful floosie, Its a shame because it had some nice bits, such as electronic ignition and a cibie headlight upgrade,

Hi, Blackhat, About 40 miles. Other side of Leicester, Grantham by the Chris walker bike shop, though they don't do MOTs The second tester just laughed, pulled his TS 100 suzuki out of the way then tested the DT,

HI So My 1977 DT 175 1g1 is up for its annual MOT, it’s done almost 100 miles since last year, It has a new battery and new bulbs, well 100 miles old, It’s failed for having a head light aim too high, (‘tilt it down then’? I said) It does not have a discernible beam pattern, (they never did??) Oh and the indicators are dim and when they flash other lights are affected, (They always did that it’s only a 6 volt system) Nothing has changed since last year, that was my local Honda bike shop, the older guy who normally does it is on holiday so the youngster did it, Oh and he tried to start it like it was a 1960s 500 cc four stroke single! nearly ripped the kick start off the motor!!!!! So five miles down the road I took it to another tester who, checked it and passed it in the complete understanding that 40 year old bikes even in good safe overall condition won’t stand up to modern inspection criteria, It’s just cost me £27 to find out that the Honda tester needs more experience, Rant over! thoughts comments

I was thinking, a water hose out of the window, the contents of a dirty cat litter tray, or a childrens heavy duty water gun, anything more and the Feds won't be interested in the scum doing the stealing

Hi Would you of been able to reach them if you threw a bucket of water at them from the window? might of brought you some time and the police could of been looking for 4 wet youths?

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/rs_125/75/picture/carburettor_complete_repair_kit/ try this!

Hi Just looked on a site called partzilla, the pt number they list for an 82 XT200J is: 15A-15620-00-00 the site states that the same kick starter is used on : 1982 XT125 J, XT200 J, 1983XT125 K / KC & XT200 K / KC

Hi Good luck with the rebuild/restoration, The list of tools you would need is never ending, there is always another tool needed, I would go with a basic motor mechanics tool kit, either as a complete purchase or as a set of bit part purchases, A good workshop manual, which may also list some tools needed, A torque wrench would be a good idea if you are going to strip and build the engines, A magneto hub puller for the mag/flywheel, Tyre levers if you intend to strip off the black bits and a foot pump or compressor, Post a picture of the bikes and using the first parts of the frame and or engine number, you may be able to find the approximate age, I think there might be a Yamaha dating service that might more closely give you the year. Then after all that you need to decide if you want to go for a full on restoration or a make it road worthy restoration, My old DT I just do enough to keep it legally on the road and safe to ride, whilst not allowing the overall condition of the bike to deteriorate.

Hi, I believe all DT/CT/AT yamahas were oil injected when they left the factory, It was called, Auto Lube, But many people I don’t know why, believe that they were better served by blanking off the oil pump, So you need to look for an oil tank, oil feed pipe from the tank to the motor and an oil delivery pipe from the motor to either the carburettor or to the cylinder manifold, also the throttle cable splits into two short cables at a junction point under the tank, one connects to the carburettor the other connects through a short tube in the engine casing and attaches to the pulley on the oil pump, more throttle = more oil delivered, oh, and the pump drive shaft needs to be present, And as a final check I would remove the oil pump engine case cover and see that the pump was fitted and set up correctly, If you want more from other members on the site you will be better served by saying hi in the new members bit, pictures would help, A google search for info and pictures will also provide most of the data you need, A j

Hi LF I don't know what the compression should be on your bike, but my two stroke DT175 makes more compression than 75psi, I seem to recall I checked it just before xmas and I think it was around 90 psi min and 110 psi max depending on how warm the motor was, So although somthing else may be making the motor warm, I think your bikes compression may be too low, Aj

Hi Brandon. I don’t know any specifics on your bike, but if it was my first time removing and stripping down my carbs, I would get a workshop manual and take loads of pictures to take reference from, including any routing of cables and bracketry, Obvious I know, but it’s all too easy to jump right in then a few weeks later wonder how and where bits went, Aj