Cynic

Honestly i think this is a bad move, i dont know if you have a lighting /charging coil or separates but they will have very little to spare and electrical loads will rob you of the HP you have got from your sports bits and bobs. Do you really want to blow out your stator coils somewhere in nowhere. If you are going on a tour surely reliability is the most important factor then weight with space a close third, my mobile will do all week without charging and does video and pics, its charged in an hour or so, one or two stops where you have access to plug it in would be it, that would leave your bikes electrics to do only what it has to.

Might need to have the carbs off for a clean then i'm afraid.

Sounds like disposable batteries for the camera and payphones are going to be the way to go.

20years to find the only advice i actually took from an 'expert' was coblers. I must of had a duff coil cos it did improve things.

I am going to repeat my DT was a complete bit#h in anything other than ideal conditions. It used excessive fuel was overly loud and needed constant maintanance like new points,head gaskets, plugs. You will have to decide when you will stop as soon you will be trading convenience with performance. Oh and i made sure it looked as standard as possible. I was doing the Q thing long ago.

I had a go on one of them, it was only 12 months old. I always though it was known as an RDZ125 went like the clappers mind, may as well have been riding a monocycle if you know what i mean. Bloke who owned it put it through a hedge not long after, shame. Be a cracking laugh when you sort it.

Hi mate from personal experience with a DT that was clocked by the feds at 64mph, back when they had discretion, and had out run a RXS100 in the process. You are looking at the wrong things. Yes your carb has a 14mm venturi, other than that it is the same as the model preceeding yours which was 16mm and designed from the outset for a ful, power 60cc engine. The carb size wont make all that much difference at this stage, it may even be better to stay at 14mm as that will generate more torque (thinking of ireland here). The big bore you are talking about, when i was messing with 50's there were big bores and BIG bores. Some of them were worse than a std engine. I spent about 20quid more (worth about 15 pints at the time) on a Autesa (bad spelling) big bore, this came with a lighter gudgeon pin, chrome rings one being high compression and the piston had considerably bigger ports with an extra small one just under the rings. Does this sound familiar jim?? That ran rings round the cheaper stuff, didn't self destruct either apart from reg needing little ends and head gaskets. That ran with bigger main jet and a higher needle position, the exhaust was a fresco cut open and had the insides cleaned up modified for higher RPM. I had to have a little bit of metal taken out the exhaust port on the barrel to let it rev higher. I even had the reed block machined so i could run one rd350 (non ypvs) reed. The ig was pretty much as was except for a dt100 coil and running more advance than std and kept in perfect nick, and changing the higher temp plug regular. As far as gearing goes, 12-36 and 15-45 are exactly the same ratio but they will make your bike run very differently due to the implied ratio between the rear sprocket and the wheel its self, the smaller numbers being better. Don't forget a closer more tarmac pattern on your tyres intead of full on blocks can give you 3-4 mph. That little lot with a couple of drops of five star could get me to over 70mph in, i have to admit perfect conditions and i must point out it was a complete ba5tard in traffic or town stop start stuff. And i wont mention stopping ahem. I know i will never know but i hope the co#k that nicked it got his cumuppence VERY painfully.

Got a centre stand? If yes use that when you leave the bike for any time.

I've only done a few tours the best was the iom, think about your packing, the less you have the less you have to worry about keeping safe while you go off sightseeing. You will be amazed at how little you really need if you think about it. I missed out on riding to portugal, and france (family,kids ,morgage etc poor excuses i know) and will always wonder. I'm jealous go for it.

This isnt very scientific but take it to a decent strech of fast duel carrageway and thrash the living daylights out of it for a few miles, accelerate using the red line and then hold it a high rpm with large throttle input for SEVERAL miles. Then ride normally and i'll bet a lot of the smoke's gone. If you are riding in traffic ALL the time a stroker needs its legs streching every so often to clear the cyl and exhaust of unburnt deposits. If it makes no difference whip the air filter out and nip round the block, still smokes? then your oil pump needs checking carefully, it may just be due a new plug to get a clean burn. You will always pong a little of 2stroke, er i actually quite like it. Reminds me of silly days on my little DT50."AHHH the smell of putoline in the morning".

+1 Sure the C+S are good, the rear wheel bearing would also be worth a look. I have seen these kind of threads soooooooooo many times and the C+S is generally the culprit.

Don't see why not but you might find a good second hand motor a more economical bet rather than spending out on what will undoubtably be expensive parts. Trouble is you wont know the problem till you strip it down or the box really gets bad.

Step one buy a manual Step two read and digest and re read and re digest then take your time. Mate of mine had a dt tuned up further than mine used to do mains reg and could change a crank in a couple of hours .

The detent spring holds a ball bearing againt the selector drum, there is a recess machined in the drum at the neutral position and when the ball drops into this it holds the drum in position. Its under the neutral switch. As to the selector forks and the selector drum you got to split the cases to have a look at them,

If it was just the neutral issue then i would be looking to the detent spring. But with the 3/4th problem as well you could be looking at a worn drum or selectors. Check the obvious like the gear lever is not sticking making you kick it too hard and that the clutch is properly adjusted. Otherwise start saving. You dont want something like this ruining your ireland trip.

Got this in an e-mail thought you lot might like it... What Do Retired People Do All Day? Working people frequently ask retired people what they do to make their days interesting. Well, for example, the other day my wife and I went into town and went into a shop. We were only in there for about 5 minutes. When we came out, there was a cop writing out a parking ticket. We went up to him and said, 'Come on man, how about giving a senior citizen a break?' He ignored us and continued writing the ticket.. I called him a turd. He glared at me and started writing another ticket for having worn tyres. So my wife called him a sh#t-head. He finished the second ticket and put it on the windshield with the first. Then he started writing a third ticket. This went on for about 20 minutes. The more we abused him, the more tickets he wrote. Personally, we didn't care. We came into town by bus. We try to have a little fun each day now that we're retired. It's important at our age :0)

Could be but i doubt a bike with charging problems and a flat battery could do 90miles at night, lights on and such.

You can run a battery down so far it won't come back. When you say you jumped it i take it that the bike started normally other than needing the jump leads. Try another battery if you can to be certain, you may even get it back with a good charge from a GOOD QUALITY car battery charger but whatever happens the battery will never be as good as it was.

The ford bit's going up on the wall at work, its our lot to a t.

You are just going to have to trust him. Tell him its quick and to behave cos his mates will have whatever wigit you fit out in record time. And his not mates will prob nick it if its tastey.

Providing you have a good spark on both cyl. Clean, set and balance the carbs, then stick two new plugs in and so long as the carbs are good that should see it done.

This is a bit old school but i got myself into the habit of switching the petrol off before the engine whenever i switch the bike off, after the joys of draining the cases on my DT after i jacked it up 'a little'. The angle it sat at on the stand meant the floats rest on the side of the bowl and dont always close. It is something i always do now from habit. Total cost nowt.....

Probably a stupid statement but the remote start is turning the ignition on? as well.

Have you tried to get it to run since, if it is running a wasted spark on the ignition and the cylinders havent fired then it could fire on what should be the exhaust stroke when in theory there is nothing to burn. But as you had been trying to get it running the cyl were full. To blow back hard enough to do what it did i would say it fired with the inlets open. Could be you have disturbed something ig related when you swapped the filters? My gut feeling would be ignition TBH but you had it running beforehand.....?? Oh welcome to the funny farm....what no, not the jacket, i don't like the jacket .......nooooooooooooooo

Leave the 50 alone and spend the money on some goodies for the 125, or better still going by the kids round my way some kit, there are scoots running around near me often enough living in a village but, and its a biggy. Even at this time of year they are only in puffa jackets or parkers, jeans, trainers and maybe gloves........