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First Bike, Yamaha SR125, Beginner Questions


Benedictine
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youre barking up the wrong tree Ben, The thing with the split pin...isnt that the pivot shaft for the pedal?

and the thing with wires is the stop lamp switch

when you eventually get to the bottom of this you'll have to adjust the stop lamp switch or the lamp may be on all of the time

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Agghh. Where's the bloody brake pedal adjusting nut then?

Edit: in that last picture though when you press the brake pedal it pulls on the wire, where you can see the wire coil. I dunno, I'm hoping I can show it to that friend of my brother's.

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just a point here regarding riding technique, it is bad practice to ride around with your foot resting on the rear brake pedal. Forgive me if im wrong, but i get the impressiion thats what your doing from reading your comments. There is usually a set distance in the owners manual for adjusting brake pedal height relative to the footrest

I think Airhead is right, that split pin looks like it secures the footrest pivot pin.

If you follow the brake pedal back, you should find that it clamps onto a splined shaft. There should be a lug attched to it, the lug will rest against then head of a screw/bolt. Pedal height is normally adjusted here, but you may also have to adjust the brake pedal light switch (the one with the wires and spring attached) so that the rear brake light comes on when you press the pedal.

Check the manual for the correct pedal height first

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just a point here regarding riding technique, it is bad practice to ride around with your foot resting on the rear brake pedal. Forgive me if im wrong, but i get the impressiion thats what your doing from reading your comments. There is usually a set distance in the owners manual for adjusting brake pedal height relative to the footrest

I think Airhead is right, that split pin looks like it secures the footrest pivot pin.

If you follow the brake pedal back, you should find that it clamps onto a splined shaft. There should be a lug attched to it, the lug will rest against then head of a screw/bolt. Pedal height is normally adjusted here, but you may also have to adjust the brake pedal light switch (the one with the wires and spring attached) so that the rear brake light comes on when you press the pedal.

Check the manual for the correct pedal height first

Thanks. No it's definitely not the footrest pivot, I'm sure the split pin is for the brake pedal. You can clearly see the nut for the footrest in the first picture above parallel with the 'yamaha' mark.

The online manual says that the brake pedal should be level with the footrest. At the moment as you can see it is at least one inch higher than the foot rest, getting on for two inches. This means when I am riding my foot is half on the footrest twisted and half on the exhaust. When I want to use the brake I can't just push my foot forward I have to pick it up and twist it to the left and then press down. With the bikes I used on the CBT, both Yamaha sr 125, the brake pedal was level or just below the footrest which meant I could easily brake.

What is regarded as the normal way to position your foot on the right of the bike? Surely not with half of it on the exhaust?

I've arranged to take the bike to someone in the know, my brother's friend on Monday which is probably best. He's an experienced biker and fixes them up. This is probably as well as I have also discovered a loose rubber tube underneath the engine of the bike sticking out going nowhere? :eusa_shifty: What the hell is this? It's probably a good all round idea to get him to look at the bike anyway because you just can't read experience from a manual. I mean even take the tension of the chain. The manual and what everyone says is to check that it is not too loose or too tight, but how do you know what is too loose or too tight if you have never seen the correct position before?

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Ben

I never had the pedal off on the boys bike, but you can try removing the rear brake arm off the drum to see if this allows the pedal to sit properly. If it does refit the arm on the splines, ensuring it slopes back away from the bike.

He sold his bike a couple f weeks ago, so I cant check for you.

Edit.

Is this tube at the rear of the engine, if so, its the battery breather.

Re: Chain tension. On your chainguard there should be an opening, allowing you to see a link in the chain. If you cannot see the link, or if its at the very top of the opening, then the chain is too tight. Similarly if its at the bottom, it is too slack. You will get tight spots on the chain, so have it on the centre stand and slowly rotate the wheel (by hand) whilst looking at the indicator.

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Ben

I never had the pedal off on the boys bike, but you can try removing the rear brake arm off the drum to see if this allows the pedal to sit properly. If it does refit the arm on the splines, ensuring it slopes back away from the bike.

He sold his bike a couple f weeks ago, so I cant check for you.

Edit.

Is this tube at the rear of the engine, if so, its the battery breather.

Re: Chain tension. On your chainguard there should be an opening, allowing you to see a link in the chain. If you cannot see the link, or if its at the very top of the opening, then the chain is too tight. Similarly if its at the bottom, it is too slack. You will get tight spots on the chain, so have it on the centre stand and slowly rotate the wheel (by hand) whilst looking at the indicator.

Thanks. I'll have a go at removing the arm tomorrow and see if it will lower. I can't remember exactly where the tube is, I just found it underneath the engine, a thick black rubber tube. I don't know what a battery breather is (I'll google it). I didn't know about the indicator on the chain guard, I'll have a look for that tomorrow as well, thanks a lot.

Regarding foot position, do people not ride with their foot hovering over the brake pedal then? Is it better practice to ride with some sort of twist to the right, not as extreme as mine, but generally?

Thanks again.

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Update.

I have sorted the brake pedal issue! I was indeed barking up the wrong tree with the split pin nut thing. I managed to find the correct bolt when I put the bike on the stand today and had a good look under the bike - found a gap with no rain or snow. It was a 10mm nut as suggested. It was simply a case of slackening of the nut by the rear brake arm and then adjusting the 10mm nut. I had to then adjust the brake light indicator and it is now sorted. Many thanks. Look the amazing level brake pedal:

DSCF1367_zps7f15f919.jpg

Really happy with that.

The chain is also spot on, as I found the indicator and it is bang in the middle all the way around, thanks for that info again.

The rubber tubing is near the battery so I assume it is the battery breather. It goes from here to the bottom of the bike and is not connected to anything at the other end, I assume that is correct and normal? Here it is:

DSCF1368_zpsa6beca31.jpg

It just goes from there to the bottom of the bike.

The only minor things I have to do now is to change the headlight warning bulb which I have discovered I get to by removing the headlight and other basic checks like battery water level, air filter and double check the oil level. Everything sorted. Thanks again.

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Thanks. I'll have a go at removing the arm tomorrow and see if it will lower. I can't remember exactly where the tube is, I just found it underneath the engine, a thick black rubber tube. I don't know what a battery breather is (I'll google it). I didn't know about the indicator on the chain guard, I'll have a look for that tomorrow as well, thanks a lot.

Regarding foot position, do people not ride with their foot hovering over the brake pedal then? Is it better practice to ride with some sort of twist to the right, not as extreme as mine, but generally?

Thanks again.

No, dont ride with your foot hovering over the brake pedal. Its normal to ride with the ball of your foot on the footrest, when you need to brake, just move your foot forward, its likely then that your heel will be on the footrest

The hanging pipe will be either from the fuel tank or the battery, nothing to worry about

Double check that the foot pedal is located correctly on the spiled shaft, sometimes there is a mark on the splined shaft that should line up with the split on the pedal spline

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Well done Ben

Theres a bit of satisfaction sorting a wee job out yourself, eh mate.

Now the pedal is lowered you can check your oil through the sight glass easily enough now.

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Thanks a lot, thanks for the info. Yes it is satisfying and better to do it yourself (with the help you lot have given + the manual) plus it saves me some notes!

Yes I don't rest my foot on the brake pedal when riding, I put my weight on the footrest and tip my foot forward when I need to brake, this is what I have been doing on the CBT rides and will do from now on. With the way my bike has been, I have had to twist my foot to the left and lift up and over the raised brake pedal at the same time and then press down. Not ideal. Fine now though. Cheers.

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Thanks a lot, thanks for the info. Yes it is satisfying and better to do it yourself (with the help you lot have given + the manual) plus it saves me some notes!

Yes I don't rest my foot on the brake pedal when riding, I put my weight on the footrest and tip my foot forward when I need to brake, this is what I have been doing on the CBT rides and will do from now on. With the way my bike has been, I have had to twist my foot to the left and lift up and over the raised brake pedal at the same time and then press down. Not ideal. Fine now though. Cheers.

Well done mate

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splined shaft? not on a brake pedal that would be a gear pedal ;)

Ben yeah as said I persnally ride with the ball of my foot on the rest and slide my foot forwards to brake.

Well done on sorting the adjustment fella

I fear one of us may be embarrased soon :eusa_whistle:

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HELP! I don't believe this. I've come to start the bike today and it just won't start at all! It makes a wheezing sound. What is this? I changed the spark plug Friday, could it be this? Any other suggestions? Stuff like this always happens to me.

There's a clicking noise near the battery and it is wheezing.

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I don't know the plug could have been overtightened. This is what I'm worried about. The wheezing and clicking sound is immediate. There is no kick of the engine at all.

The only thing is it did start before after we fitted the new spark plug. The clicking sound is right where the battery is.

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Yes it is electric start. It just wheezes and the battery area clicks when I hit the button yes. I put an Iridium spark plug in I wonder if this is the wrong sort? It did say it was suited to my bike though. Besides it worked before. It's just as if there is nothing there, no engine kick, just the wheezing and then clicking sound near the battery. I can't get the spark plug out to try the old one again because I haven't got the right size bloody spanner. I'll have to get one tomorrow and try that out. If it is not that then I haven't a clue. Could I have knocked something fiddling with the bike at the weekend?

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