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about to give up !


rob_aka_chippy
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so i finished my yamaha dt125lc2 project back in march, and all is good, but in may i noticed my bulbs kept blowing after a little detective work i cam up trumps, as it ws the summer months it never really bothered me and the problem slipped to the back of my mind, but now the summer months have come to an ebrupt end, i think now the problem needs to be sorted once and for all ,,

i stripped my plastics to view my battery, and noticed the earth had come loose and disconnectedm itself. after amending tht problem, i went for a spin up the road and all was well till i opened her up and again like many times before my bulbs blew, first the normal beam then the highbeam,,im coming to the end off my wits with this bike and will consider selling it if i cnt fix it soon as catchin the bus and being stuck in traffic all the time is not fun,,especially when i use to laugh at people on buses as i blasted pass, even more so when they were stuck in traffic,

so people any ideas

in advance wiring to me is a no go so lamens terms would be much apprecitaed lol

C:\Documents and Settings\paul.PF-ACER\Desktop\films\dt

thanks in advance

ps ive uploaded a picture but not sure if it will work never done it before

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If the are blowing when you rev up i would be thinking regulator?, check the voltage across the battery with the engine running, also if the regulator is toast the battery is likely to be also so check it hasnt boiled dry

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As foamy says rob" the regulator , is a bolt on- plug in part , no electical skill, consult manual for its position,

And come on " britain never got GreaT giving up,, :eusa_snooty:

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any ideas on how to upload a picture to this post as i want to show you all my finished project, and im not sure if my regulator is both a rectifier aswell. when i took my battery out earlier it had like a white powder on the side of the battery and on the housing,, thought it was some kind of wear from vibrations ??

thanks for the suggestions everyone

ps ive checked to voltage before nd it said 20 volts, my mate said tht was normal as 12 would go where its needed and the rest to the battery

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Ha rob" :babyha: tell you mate hes a blether, about 13.5- 14.5 , will be max to battery, then the regulator gets rid of excess ,,

That white powder is battry acid,,[ boiled off,] or you coke staash" :biglaugha:

see F.AQuestions for piccy"s :eusa_think:

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If your battery is the serviceable kind (where you can pop the caps off the top and fill with distilled water) then check that there is water in the battery, no water is a good indicator that the battery has been overcharged, and a faulty regulator is likely to be causing the overcharging.

with the bike running put a voltmeter straight onto the battery terminals, it should read 13-14v or there abouts, 20v is waaaay too much, it is likely to be behind one of the side panels or possibly under the seat, im not familiar with your bike so it could be anywhere, like blackhat said its a bolt-on part and easily replaceable

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i went over the bike yesterday with my uncle whos an electrician not a mechanical one but yeah, he has a very good knowledge off the voltometer compared to me,, all i know he did was put the red prong on live and the black prong to the earth on the frame and said nothings shorting,, so i pedrsume he checked for continuity or something, as i said erlier leccys really not my thing lol,, and ive found the reg rec under my tank next to the ignition coil,,,im not sure these can be tested any ideaas on this particulr question lol..an no my batter is a sealed one [so no plug caps in top],,thanks again everyone i appreciate ur help

:love:

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the rectifier can be tested using the diode test (or even just a continuity test) on a multimeter, the current should only flow one way, if it flows both ways its shagged, not sure how you can test it if it is combined with the regulator though

if you cannot service your battery then chances are its cooked by now

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may be worth a LOOK

if you replace the regulator and it solves your problems happy days, as a crude test with the bike running keep your hand over the regulator and it should heat up, this is how it reduces the voltage by turning the excess into heat which dissipates through the heatsink, the rectifier is essentially a diode which turns the AC voltage from your alternator into the DC voltage required to charge your battery and by the look of that one in the link you should be able to do a continuity test with your multimeter leads on each of the pins,

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