Matthew Duncan Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 HI guys, Just wondering what everyones opinions are on the best way to remove a broken exhaust manifold stud. I need to remove 2, one of them has about 15mm protruding and the other is snapped pretty much right at the cyclinder head. would i be best to drill them both, with left handed bits and hope they bite, or use a stud extractor ? cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NE0 Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 I've used various methods, drill and stud extractors i use as a last resort. Mole grips ruin most chances of success quite a bit. I tend to use my cam stud extractor if theres any stud on show and providing you can get enough clearance. Use with plenty of penetrating oil. Keep it as flat as possible, any lift will shear the stud. available on ebay I dare say Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 yeah, used them in the past - but tend to prefer this type - http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&q=stud+remover&gbv=2&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=5313186072052915527# as the the force is spread equally on the stud - i.e. all force is coming from above rather than from one side, more concrended about the samller one that i cant get with the extractor :/ any advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Hi Mattew, Got exactly the same problem on my project bike, I used a drill to remove most of the thread and then heated it until it was really hot then plenty of penatrating fluid left over night and then a small drift to knock the thread out ( make a small flat spot on the stud you can see and just keep tapping at it until it moves) the next day with LOADS more WD40 and oil mix plus more heat. The only other way is to take the head off and take it to your local friendly engineering shop but they will remove the stud AND the thread and recut it all for you, not a cheap option. Tried stud removers in the past but they tend to spread the stud that your trying to remove and jam in the hole plus you have to use the smallest one in the set which has less grip on the metal and can just make things harder after you've finally given up and started swearing at it. The only real advice is to be really patient and just keep heating it and knocking away until you can grip the bugger and turn it. Wish you luck mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Cheers guys ! it's my project bike that the problems on . . . imma gonna have a look at it this weekend if i get the time, failing that, i have a relative with an engineering shop - im sure he'll put it straight ! cheers for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted April 6, 2012 Moderator Share Posted April 6, 2012 weld a nut on them , even the recessed one. the combination of heat and a new nut works every time. If you have a welder it takes longer to set it all up than to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb1951 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 weld a nut on them , even the recessed one. the combination of heat and a new nut works every time. If you have a welder it takes longer to set it all up than to do it. I agree with this, heat is a major factor in my experience and in my job (industrial pumps) I get a lot of snapped studs etc, the easyouts that are most used are poor, the best ones I have used were snap-on but expensive http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=644920&group_ID=675457&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog like those Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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