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Torque Wrench


David Baker
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Hi all,

just wanted to pick your brains on tool arsenal. All i read in the manuals is things need to be screwed to certain pressure settings. Well am looking to invest in a torque wrench really but am lost :) I was wondering what i should get? 3/8 or a 1/2 or should i get both in the long run? What am i gonna need most? Its just i dont want to over tighten things and then have trouble later on. And any recommendations on what wrench to buy would be nice too :rolleyes:

Thanks!

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Hi Dave

There are two types of torque wrenches..deflecting beam and click type.

The deflecting beam style costs a lot less than the click type. You read the torque off a scale at the top of the handle as indicated by the pointer. They are cheap and almost as accurate as the click type (ie it is hard to read 5.1 ft/lbs if required). The only thing that can knock them off spec is a bent beam.

The click type has an internal clutch. You set the ft lbs you want to tighten the bold to and once setting is reached the clutch slips and the wrench makes a clicking sound. Before putting it away you should adjust the torque setting down to about to about 1/5 of the wrenches max torque in order to maintain the proper calibration. The problem is that you may not know if the wrench is out of calibration.

For working on a bike a 3/8 inch s/b adequate. Just make sure the working torque range covers the ft/lb range that you will incur while working on your bike. For instance, on my bike the camshaft sprocket bolt is torqued to 40 ft/lbs, the clutch nut 50ft/lbs and the clutch spring bolts 5.8 ft /lbs.

I don't do a lot of complicated monkey wrenching but I prefer and own the click type (5ft/lbs-80ft/lbs). It works for me.

Rocky

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I guess I use clickers - You set the pressure, then wrench stuff with it. It starts to tighten and then, as you reach the exact point you need, it slips a touch and goes click. You can still tighten after that, so be careful to listen/feel for that CLICK.

I keep a smaller one for fiddly bits and a big 1.5' long one to make heavy work much easier.

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Do not use your torque wrench as a torque breaker.

The only way to check a clicker is to use a solid beam torque wrench. A solid beam torque wrench is accurate a long as the pointer reads zero when you start.

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Those 2 should cover the majority of nuts'n'bolts on your bike - anything that needs more than 80Nm I generally tighten up to 'Ooof!' and leave it at that.

Judging by the second part, I'm going to guess that you don't have a decent socket set .... ? If that's the case, pop down to Hellfrauds and give them £20 for something like this: Clicky linky thing - this is a good basic set that covers most of what you'll need.

That's the basics covered, then you can add sockets and screwdriver bits as you go when jobs require them, easy!

HTH

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halfords own brand tools are very good quality,but i don't like them ratchets that come with that set,

buy one of them with the plastic handles,(seriously) i got one 15 yrs ago and hit it with a lump hammer,

it's still going strong..

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This is what i have atm:

My link

I'm thinking i'll need something more robust. Am really wanting to get into stripping down the bike because i dont want to keep giving my money away to the garage for simple stuff.

Those 2 should cover the majority of nuts'n'bolts on your bike - anything that needs more than 80Nm I generally tighten up to 'Ooof!' and leave it at that.

Judging by the second part, I'm going to guess that you don't have a decent socket set .... ? If that's the case, pop down to Hellfrauds and give them £20 for something like this: Clicky linky thing - this is a good basic set that covers most of what you'll need.

That's the basics covered, then you can add sockets and screwdriver bits as you go when jobs require them, easy!

HTH

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I'm with Kev on this, halfords socket sets are ace, I've had mine 15 years and they get whacked with a lump hammer and still perfik.

I'm of the opinion, the job comes before the tool.

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This is what i have atm:

My link

I'm thinking i'll need something more robust. Am really wanting to get into stripping down the bike because i dont want to keep giving my money away to the garage for simple stuff.

Please tell me that's a pisstake and you're not seriously considering attacking your bike with a set of Argos monkey-metal tools? Mein dew, as it's only got a ¼" drive on the sockets, it'd probably snap off before any serious rounding of bolt heads could take place, but still ..... :icon_eek:

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Please tell me that's a pisstake and you're not seriously considering attacking your bike with a set of Argos monkey-metal tools? Mein dew, as it's only got a ¼" drive on the sockets, it'd probably snap off before any serious rounding of bolt heads could take place, but still ..... :icon_eek:

Thats why i was looking to expand :)

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some times the cheap stuff works just as well as the stupidly expensive stuff

http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/lidl_uk/hs.xsl/index_17086.htm

and,,,

http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/lidl_uk/hs.xsl/index_17091.htm

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Thats why i was looking to expand :)

OK - toolkits for beginners:

General note, always buy the best you can afford, but don't turn your nose up at some of the cheaper stuff in Aldi/Lidl - this list is in no way comprehensive, it's just a guide to what's out there.

Essentials:

Basic socket set

Screwdrivers - Flat, Phillips and Pozi-drive (there is a difference, they're not just cross-heads)

Allen keys (and Torx drivers more frequently these days)

Combination spanners (open and ring end)

Pliers/wire cutters

Stanley knife

Soft faced mallet (rubber/copper/lead face)

Torque wrench(es)

Additional sockets as needed for sizes not covered by main set

Useful additions (in no particular order):

Better quality ratchet than the one in your starter kit

Cheap digital camera (take photos before you disassemble it, so you can see how it goes back together)

Plastic chinese takeaway/ice cream boxes (for keeping bits safe, maybe in oil)

Strap wrench (for oil filters and the like)

Mole grips (Vise Grip in the colonies)

Bench vice

Soldering iron

Dremel multi-tool (own-brand versions are available)

Breaker bar(s) - length of old scaffold pipe will do

G-clamps - various sizes

Hacksaw - various sizes

Multimeter

Angle grinder

Flywheel puller

Bench grinder

Power drill (rechargeables are OK, but you can't beat a good mains one)

Tyre levers (if you fancy doing your own) and bead-breakers

Blowtorch

Vernier caliper (the cheap Lidl digital ones are great)

Getting serious now:

Carb balance gauges (for a twin you can get away with a home-made manometer)

Compression tester

Welder

Air compressor with tools/spray gun etc.

Parts washer

Ultrasonic cleaner

Bike lift (so you can work at a comfortable height, not on your knees)

.... and on and on and on .......

Are you sure you want to start down this path? I got hooked by a Kamasa ½" socket set 30 years ago (still got it) and still find myself coming out of Hellfrauds with some new shiny stuff when I only went in there for a bulb ...... I think that the phrase "You can't need any more tools" (as uttered by SWMBO every now and then) is like dividing by zero - the space-time continuum would collapse if it could actually happen.

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KAMASA socket set, 30 years ago,,:D .

me and you have so much in common. :) .

i bought one about the same time, still got it.

Don't buy anything from the pound shop it's all cack.

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