YPVSTony

Are you saying you are only getting power for the lights, horn.indicators and handlebar panel lights with the engine running? If so it may be worth checking to make sure that the main fuse/s hasn't blown. Tony

Have been looking at this recently as saw an article about it on the web. I was going to get some of the screwdrivers of ebay but they were quite expensive but found a dealer who does the "Motion Pro" tools here in the UK and they do the packs of JIS bits in the #1,#2 and 3# sizes as here http://www.dirtbikebitz.com/motion-pro-tool-jis-cross-bit-2pk-p-76638.html?gclid=CPyihtz03dMCFaa17Qod3BMLqg&utm_campaign=products&utm_medium=BaseFeed1&utm_source=GoogleBase1 Also after a bit of research on the web found out that Tamiya who do the R/C model cars also do their own screwdrivers that are JIS Standard but only in #1 and #2 sizes. Tony

You can get plastic protectors like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Universal-Motorcycle-Fork-Leg-Stanchion-Protectors-Easy-Fit-/400459931906?hash=item5d3d45a102:g:jsgAAOSwKIpV-VuS#ht_1257wt_1055 that fit around the leg and protect the stanchion, and the ones shown are universal that are split at the back so you open them up to go over the leg so no removing of the forks is required. Tony

You want Guy Martin then.

Could be worse, they could have given the job to Jeremy Clarkson.

Sounds like the carb pilot jet could be blocked. Once unscrewed you should be able to just see through it or spray some carb/contact cleaner through it to see if its clear (Don't be tempted to poke bits of wire down it).

It's worth checking while you have the clutch apart, the slots in the clutch basket where the "Tabs" of the friction plates locate against for indentations due to wear which can cause the plates to stick. If not too bad these can usually be cleaned up with a fine flat file. Also worth checking the grooves in the clutch centre where the metal plates locate in for the same wear.

There is a selection on the RD LC website here for £50 http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ultimatelccrazy/html/Decals%20&%20stickers%20.htm Tony

It always used to be on Yamaha's that the RH side mirror (Throttle side) had a left hand thread where it screwed into the handlebar mount and the LH side mirror (clutch lever side) had a normal right hand thread.

If it is Black and quite thick it will be the negative wire from the battery negative terminal.

Assuming you've taken out all the screws, certain there is 9 in total, it is usual for the clutch cover to get stuck on the O ring that fits on the end of the alloy coolant tube that is seen in your photo where it fits inside the clutch cover to seal the coolant from the gearbox oil. There is also a wire circlip on the tube which is by the O ring to hold the tube in place when you put the clutch cover back on. Try spraying something like WD40 in the area where the tube fits in and try gently wiggling the clutch cover off. Be careful trying to prise off with a screwdriver as you'll end up damaging the gasket surfaces. Tony

Looking on the Yamaha UK website under manuals it says the XVS1100A is fitted with tubed type tyres. Did you get an owners manual with the bike ? It will tell you in there. You can't just fit a tubeless tyre on wheels that were designed for tubed type tyres.

You will probably find them on the rubber intake manifold between the carbs and cylinder head with rubber caps on with clips holding them on as mentioned.

I think I would give Yamaha UK a ring on 01932 358000 and have a friendly chat with their warranty dept and explain the situation as they may still honour the claim. Found this on the web and it looks like you're not the only one to have a leaking rear shock http://www.visordown.com/road-tests-used/buyer-guide-yamaha-fjr1300/14369-2.html. If you look on the Yamaha Motor UK website and look under services / modification checker you can enter your VIN and see if there have been any recalls in that area. Tony

And with all due respect I will stand by using the pump system. One of the problems with premix is that it uses the same oil ratio throughout the rev range so the engine is given the same amount of oil pottering around town as it is running flat out on the open road. I remember my first road bike which was an FS1E which you had to premix at 20:1 and I remember it was a regular job to remove the cylinder head and barrel to decoke the piston and rings and to remove the exhaust and baffle to clean out the oilly buildup. I expect things aren't quite as bad these days with the availability of semi and fully synthetic 2 stroke oils, but I know on my 1983 RD350LC2 when I remove the exhaust baffles after several thousand miles there is hardly any oil or carbon buildup on them and that is with using a mineral based oil. What diaphragm are you refering too ? The oil is gravity fed down from the oil tank to a mechanical pump where it is metered out via the throttle position and engine RPM and then pumped into the inlet tract. Apart from a couple of oil seals in the pump there is no diaphragm in the pump to fail. Regarding pipe blockages the only time I have heard of this happening is when the bike has been sat for many years and the oil has gone bad. The oil lines all have retaining clips on them to keep them on so I expect where you've heard of the pipes falling off is where people have not put the retaining clips back on the pipes.

When I worked for a Yamaha dealer back in the 80's I can never recall any 2 stroke model having an engine failure due to the autolube pump failing. The biggest problem was the owners forgetting to top up the oil tank even though Yamaha fitted sight glasses or oil warning lights and sometimes both!! When we sold a new or s/h 2 stroke model we always made it clear to the new owner to regularly check the level in the oil tank and top up when needed as if they ran out it would get expensive. Yamaha first started fitting the autolube system on their 2 strokes back in 1964 and if it proved to be unreliable they wouldn,t have continued to use the system. A reason why racing bikes use premix is that having a pump and oil tank fitted would only add weight to the machine and even using premix they could still seize due to lubrication failure.

For safety and peace of mind I would fit a new tube. You use to be able to get motorcycle specific repair kits as the patches were larger than a bicycle kit but I would Never consider using a bicycle puncture kit on a motorcycle tube. If you're unsure take the wheel to a dealer and get it fixed properly as it's your safety at stake.

Regarding the cold starting, have you had the carbs apart recently ? A common issue on the LC-YPVS twins is when stripping the carbs is to get the float bowls mixed up and put on the wrong carbs. Although they look the same they are different. If you put them side by side and look at the inside you will see only one has a drilling for the choke jet. This one goes on the LH (choke side) carb and the one without the drilling goes on the RH carb. Also worth spraying some carb or contact cleaner down the drilling to make sure the choke jet is clear as these can gum up if stood for a time. Make sure you get the choke balance pipe connected between the carbs and oil lines connected to each carb. Regards the lights, as Cynic has said it sounds like a battery issue. Have you got a multimeter to check the DC volts across the battery terminals. Could be it just needs a charge using a bike charger.

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Noticed I can't seem to add a reply to a topic on my old desktop computer running Windows XP since the site changed but can using my wifes laptop on Windows 7. Also noticed I cannot seem to logout using the small down arrow next to user name as no options shown but can on the laptop. Is there something that needs to be changed on my computer to allow this as was working ok before the site changed. Thanks Tony