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cliverlong

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About cliverlong

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    Member

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  • Current Bike(s)
    XJ6 Diversion 2010, N-Reg 250 Virago/V-Star

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London

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  1. Hi The headlamp blew on my XJ6. I have removed the old bulb and replaced with a new H4 type. The bulb does not light. I have tested the voltage at the bulb connector that pushes into the back of the bulb and there is no voltage. I have tested the terminals into which the bulb fuse fits and there is no voltage there. The 20A headlamp bulb is not broken. All other electrical components seem to work ok. The bike starts fine. Does anyone know where else I check to see if some wiring connection is loose to explain why the bulb doesn't light? Regards, Clive
  2. Hi. I have an XJ6 Diversion. It is water-cooled, 4 cylinder. Today on the 15 mile commute to work I noticed the digital temperature reading fluctuating wildly. When I was travelling around 20 mph the temperature displayed 90C. When I stopped at lights the temp displayed jumped within 3 seconds to 108C. The maximum reading is normally 103C when stationary and idling. When I stopped the bike then switched on again, but with the engine not running, the gauge displayed a maximum of 112C and the radiator fan was running very fast. Once on the journey a red temperature light flashed for less than a second. Any idea what the problem might be? I am guessing 1) the sensor is giving a wrong reading, insufficient coolant fluid 3) water pump broken. Clive
  3. Hi, I disassembled the switch gear and detached the end of the throttle cables on the twist grip. The twist grip turned freely when the cables were detached. However, there was traces of rust on the wire cable - I guess because the bike had been sitting around for years. I have bought some new throttle cables on EBay and I am going to see if I can persuade someone with some technical ability to help me fit them in place of the existing cables. I don't think it is conceptually a difficult job to fit but it looks fiddly where the cables attach to the engine (what IS that bit called?) because everything looks cramped into a small space. Thanks, Clive
  4. Finally ..... A completely new "Marving" exhaust from WeMoto in Brighton seems to have cured this "hesitancy". Also I am breathing in less fumes when the bike is stationary - the bike is chucking them out the back to the next punter. Clive
  5. Hello Does anyone know if there are some written (or even better video) instructions on removing and refitting throttle cables for a 250 Virago? My throttle cables have pretty much seized and lubing them has had no effect. I have bought new cables on Ebay for a tenner (I think that is a bit of a punt at that price). I will new lube the new cables (assuming they fit). Much appreciated. Clive
  6. Hi, The indicators on the Virago XVS250 are in just the wrong position to fit decent sized panniers. Now this bike is no long-distance tourer, but I would like to take it on the occasional short camping trip. Has anyone moved the indicators to the back of the rear mudguard / fender(?) ? My idea this would clear an area to fit a rack that would attach to the hole in the rear mudguard previously used by indicator. Regards, Clive
  7. Hi, The right-hand wing mirror on my Virago XV(S)250 is stuck in one place (out-of-place, having been knocked when parked). There are two nuts underneath the mirror "stem". When adjusting the position of the mirror I don't want to force and strip the thread - especially where the stem inserts is all part of a handlebar attachment including the brake fluid topup (sorry for technically incorrect words). Which way do I loosen the nuts and in which order, so I can adjust the position of the mirror? Thanks, Clive
  8. Hi Today was a dry day and I had some time. I cleaned the chain and I crimped the two connectors for the cartridge fuse holder as you suggested, and the problem with the indicator seems to be fixed. Thanks for your suggestion. Clive
  9. Hi, About once per week the indicator stops working on my 2016 XJ6 Diversion. The hazrd warning also stops working. All other electrical items such as headlights, and brake lights seem to work fine while the indicator stops working. I noticed tonight when I stopped and turned off the bike then turned back on the ignition but did not start the bike, the neutral bulb on the instrument panel was weak (*) but the indicator and hazards worked ok. After switching on and off a few times without turning over, the neutral bulb seemed strong and the indicator continued to work fine. Has anyone else experienced this infrequent indicator/hazard "failure" on the XJ6? Does anyone have any suggestions on how to diagnose this problem? Thanks, Clive
  10. Electrics, always electrics. (Except when it is water leaks at home) Fixing earlier problems, I have cleaned the headlight flasher switch and replaced the horn. The new horn is a bit toot-tooty but it's plenty loud enough. Now, the horn, indicators, rear brake light and neutral jewel lamp all run through the same 10A fuse. I know this because the fuse blew about a month ago. Now with no apparent trigger and at an unknown time, but at least once, sometimes twice, per one hour ride, all the electrical devices running off that 10A fuse stop working. I know this because the indicator jewel light stops flashing, the indicators don't work and the neutral jewel light doesn't come on. Then a few minutes later everything starts working again! Any suggestions where to start tracing the problem? Sense suggests it is a "loose connection", but where? I have very basic electric circuit knowledge, basically you measure voltage across a device and current through the device by putting the multimeter in line. And that's it! I have the circuit diagram for the bike. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Clive
  11. Thanks for the link to the part. A useful site for spares. The switch works perfectly, it is just sometimes it is it is not pushed enough by the "paddle". Clive The straightforward ideas are the best. I will try this. Ta.
  12. Hi For some reason I was checking the brake light on my XJ6 and I noticed the brake light was on. I have worked out the cause is the hand brake lever. At one end of the hand brake lever is a "paddle" that when the lever is not held (i.e. the brake is not activated) the paddle pushes a little switch (see attached pictures ). I guess this is a very common set up (see attached link to photos). When the switch is pushed by the paddle the brake light is off. When I pull on the brake level the paddle comes away and the switch springs open and the rear brake light comes on. The problem is sometimes the paddle does not press the switch enough to switch off the brake light. I can overcome this by "flicking" the brake lever with my fingers, but it is tricky and I shouldn't really do this while riding. Now, over a year ago I was knocked off the bike by white van man and one bit of damage to the bike was a little cover that was part of the brake cylinder (?) arrangement that covered the "plunger" into the master brake cylinder (?) had sheared off. You can see this in one of the photos "brake lever cover sheared" Now, is it possible the "paddle" is slightly bent and with a bit of heat and bending I can get the paddle to push on to the switch when I release the brake lever? Regards, Clive
  13. Hi From time to time, the revs on my XV250 seem to take half a second to kick in when I twist the throttle. Now, I'm not expecting superbike responsiveness but it is this unpredictability that interests/concerns me. I have cleaned the air filter (the oil that came out seemed pretty clean to me) but this had no positive effect. Could the carb need cleaning? and .... what's bothering me is I am developing a tendency to really yank the throttle to compensate then the Virago takes off down the road propelled by the power of many horses. Clive
  14. Another forum claims the pod contains a "Carburetor heater". I'm still intrigued what the liquid was in the frame that started to flow out when I undid one of the screws holding the left pod in place. I won't be fiddling with that again. Clive
  15. Will do. I managed to get the spade connectors off the horn by gently attacking the horn with a hammer.
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