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spikelovesmetal

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About spikelovesmetal

  • Rank
    Member

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  • Current Bike(s)
    YBR125 (2010)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Cardiff
  • Interests
    Tinkering, drumming and keeping the rubber side on the ground.
    Currently a Haynes Spanner Level 2 due to lack of a workshop. One day!

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  1. 2010 YBR125 (fuel injected). I've read through the forums but haven't found the same problem as mine, so apologies if I have missed one. My speedo has been 'enthusiastic' since I've had the bike, but after riding another bike (MT07) I noticed how much it seems out by (indicated 30mph is probably more like 22-24mph), and also that the speedo needle is very slow to respond to deceleration. When I rolled to a stop at a roundabout, it was still on 20mph and looked as if it was stuck in treacle, winding down very slowly. I took it to the garage on the same ride and they kindly had a look at t
  2. The fuel injected YBR's have a fast idle system which is designed to run the engine at elevated rpm's for the first five to fifteen minutes or so of stop-and-go riding (depends on current temperature etc) and then backs off to run normally. Normal is 1300 to 1500rpm. When I took mine to a garage for servicing, they started it up and it was reading too high because it was cold and started on the fast idle speed (2000+ rpm) so they wound back the idle to what 'normal' was. Consequently when I got back on the bike to ride home, ten minutes later it slowed the idle speed down and died at the traf
  3. Thanks for that! I've looked up both the Yuasa which sells itself as an OEM battery and the Motobatt version (MBTX7U). The equivalent Motobatt has higher CCA which would be an advantage in the nippier weather, but lists 8Ah rather than the 6Ah recommended in the manual. Will the Motobatt still be ok to use? From memory that figure just tells you how quickly it will charge/discharge, but I just want to check before I end up with another bloody doorstop.
  4. Sorry for the delay! I had charged the battery a week or so before so didn't think to check it again once it was back on the bike. Turns out in that time it had already gone from around 90-100% charge to 40-60% and also went through the Recover cycle on the Optimate. Charged it again off the bike following your advice, left it a couple of days and got the same problem. New battery time! Can anyone recommend a good manufacturer? The battery is a YTX7L-BS in the book. Yuasa looked good but I'm confused looking at it why a maintenance-free battery would come with separate acid.
  5. This is for a YBR125ED 2010 (fuel injected) with about ~3050 miles on the clock. Sorry for the long post, I thought it would just help if I listed all the details in here! My beloved Wibber (both because it's a YBR and because it goes wibberwibberwibber when running) had a service a couple of months ago following a fork rebuild. Among other things, the workshop set the idle back as they said it was running too fast. It's a 15-30 minute drive back depending on city traffic, and I was finding that by the time I was near home the engine was near to cutting out when I stopped at traffic light
  6. Thanks for all the info. I've had another look at the bike forks today keeping what you've all said in mind. The right leg seems fine - no traces of oil on it as the suspension moves and feels dry. The left leg, however, has a little 'tidemark' of oil on it to wherever the inner tube dips in, e.g. under braking. I'm quite content that the majority of the oil they put in after fixing the seals is still in there, as it isn't pouring out in buckets over the wheel/brakes etc. There aren't any visible defects to the seal area, either - it just seems to have reverted back to being a kangaroo ag
  7. I've had a look at aftermarket gaiters and have found some rubber ones that fit my bike already. However, searching for advice about them on other forums and message boards has almost warned me off them a bit. Somebody on a Ténéré forum pointed out that they tend to trap dirt, grit and water inside them, hence why they are seldom featured on more modern bikes as opposed to 80's or 90's models where they were quite widely used. I was wondering if there was something like the plastic guards you see on upside-down forks that act a bit like shin pads (like on WRs), but for, um, right-way-up forks.
  8. Hello, I recently bought my first bike, a 2010 YBR 125 with 3,000 miles on the clock, and bar some teething problems it's been great. I took it for its MOT shortly after getting it and had to have the fork seals replaced, as braking was akin to running into a wall holding one of those big yoga balls. There wasn't any oil on the forks when I had looked at it a couple of times, but the bloke pointed out that by this point it had probably all squeezed out given how bouncy it was (a quick emergency stop-type exercise in the car park saw the 'Yamaha' logo almost touch the top of the outer tube
  9. Hello YOC! I've just joined this forum in order to help maintain my bike, a 2010 YBR-125. It's my first bike, and although I've already fallen off it once (sorry) I'm keen to keep it in good nick. I've recently passed my CBT and am hoping to go to Direct Access soon, though learning to drive a car may come first to help with some confidence issues. Looking forward to chatting to you all.
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